How To Replace The Factory Subwoofer - Page 17 -
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post #241 of 433 Old 08-15-2011, 12:31 AM
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I just followed ArcherAce' how-to to replace my blown stock sub (with the same Pyramid WX65X) and it was completely painless. Great Write up!!!!!...I followed it step by step. The new sub sounds great, I could actually "hear" the bass from inside my house when I went to grab a soda. Thanks ArcherAce, probably wouldn't have done it without your write-up. This is a classic example of how these forum are so beneficial.

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post #242 of 433 Old 08-16-2011, 06:31 AM
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Wow, this is a great write up. Thanks for the post.
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post #243 of 433 Old 08-20-2011, 11:29 AM
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Alright, I'm having a lot of trouble with the wiring with the Pyramid. I have a 2003 TJ that has four wires...a red and black bundle and a grey and brown bundle. I've tried what I think is every single combination. I have an aftermarket head unit, but power was going to the blown sub with both the stock unit and the aftermarket unit so I figure it should hit this one as well.

Has anybody with a 2003 TJ that has the four wires found a successful wiring? Also, I'm testing it without putting the whole thing back together each time, that wouldn't matter, right?

Thanks for your help!
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post #244 of 433 Old 08-21-2011, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by berryjr View Post
Pardon my late reply. I subscribed to the thread so I would see updates but it didn't work...

Here is the item I ordered: Kicker CompVT 08CVT652 65-Inch 2-Ohm 165mm SVC Subwoofer

It could just be my recollection that is the problem. This 6.5" should sound like a DB Dragrace system right?

IDK, I was holding the console while checking the sound in the garage. I thought it sounded okay and I didn't really want to start shorting wires and risk blowing anything. Do you know - if I short/connect the wrong wires, is it going to blow the sub or amp instantly? Or do I have a little leyway to test different wiring configurations?
I have the identical situation you mention with my 02 Jeep TJ sub replacement. I ordered the Kicker CompVT 10CVT652 and installed without any trouble. I hooked the brown wire (+) to the red speaker connection and the gray (-) to the black speaker connection. I also capped the remaining red and black wires coming from the factory amp and secured them to prevent a short or rattle. Upon testing the mounted speaker before reinstalling the console, it sounded good with a more punch/bass than the factory sub. After reinstalling the console, it still sounds good but not as much punch at a moderate volume. To get any punch, the volume has to be turned up to the point of almost distorting the remaining factory speakers (front and roll bar). It seems the Kicker sub is simply underpowered. This being said, would connecting the two positives and two negative to the speaker provide better sound? I've read on this forum that people have done it both ways but which way is correct? Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
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post #245 of 433 Old 08-23-2011, 11:13 AM
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Aftermarket Head Unit

Great write up - just ordered a new sub but am curious about the "power ant" wire issue. I have a Sony head unit and I have read several people needing to use that wire (which I taped off during install). The only post I've seen describing what to hook it up to is the "lime green" wire on the OEM harness. Is this the case? Thanks in advance.
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post #246 of 433 Old 09-09-2011, 08:20 AM
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Ordered the same sub last night off amazon for 11 bucks I just bought my lj and thought there was a sub there for about 2 days until i noticed an empty hole, cant wait to install mine.

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post #247 of 433 Old 09-17-2011, 06:22 AM
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well got the sub installed last night, what a pain in the arse that was. Had to drill out the 2 back bolts to the center console then come to find out the PO had got ahold of the wiring in there what a mess. All done now and the sub is at best O.K. but its better than what I had(nothing)!.

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post #248 of 433 Old 09-20-2011, 03:18 PM
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Great writeup! Replaced my factor subwoofer with the Pyramid this afternoon. I ended up using the red and black wires and taped off the gray/brown wires in my '04 TJ. Sounds about the same as factory with a fraction of the price.

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post #249 of 433 Old 09-25-2011, 09:14 AM
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i just put a new subwoofer in from quadartec. it's an exact replacement for the original one. same space, wiring, etc. perfect fit and took moments to install once i got the subwoofer unit out of the center console. one tip on getting the subwoofer unit out of the console, be careful getting the push washers off the stems to remove the unit. i broke off one of mine but it's still long enough to hold a washer. i got an assortment of push washer sizes from my Ace hardware so had new ones to use.

the new speaker is $89.99 from quadratec. it may seem like a lot but it is an exact drop in, wire for wire fit for the old one. BUT it's BETTER in that the speaker is coated to be water/weather resistant.

my old speaker was totally shot! it had come off the speaker frame all the way around. no wonder it sounded like junk.

i would not recommend buying an OEM whole subwoofer unit, for mega $$$. one reason is they are the same old paper speakers that are probably already old and ready to blow again. another reason is, some new replacement subwoofer units have entirely diffffferent wire plugs that may NOT match your jeep wiring. i know, i got taken buying one. the replacement unit i bought had a plug with about 8 pins in it. while the subwoofer unit in my jeep had a much larger plug connecter with about 16 pins in it, and was a total different design of plug connector. Quadratec came out with their new exact replacement speaker about a week after i dropped about 300 for the replacment OEM Jeep subwoofer but with the wrong plug. i didn't notice the plug difference until i had it installed. DUH on me.

go with the quadratec unit, and you get a nice exact replacement and you dont have to cut and drill out your subwoofer, no new amp, no wiring nightmares....

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post #250 of 433 Old 09-25-2011, 01:13 PM
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I had my sub replaced with a JL Audio 8", that was put in the factory enclosure by HiPro Audio of victoria, TX. They did cut the outer console and put a grill over it due to the excursion of the new sub. They hooked it to an amplifier I had, and it is AWESOME!!!.. Uses the factory spot for the ultimate concealment.

I would recommend the JL 8" to anyone.
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post #251 of 433 Old 09-25-2011, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for that lengthy, irrelevant post. :roll:

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post #252 of 433 Old 10-15-2011, 06:26 PM
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Another great write-up! Replaced the blown sub today in my '03 TJ Sahara with the Pyramid WX65X.

Stock stereo, 4-wire combo to the sub. Took 30 minutes (including testing the wire combos) -- wound up using BROWN + & GREY -. Sounds just fine and for the $20 price of parts, can't be beat.
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post #253 of 433 Old 11-03-2011, 09:50 PM
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Just purchased the Pyramid Wx65x from Parts Express for $22 including shipping. Like most posters my factory sub had blown out. Can't wait... 3 days and counting. Will post up when completed.

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post #254 of 433 Old 11-14-2011, 08:33 PM
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One thing I noticed... Nobody seemed to mention the 2 phillips head screws in the top of the console. No biggie, but it was obvious the bass housing wasn't coming out until done.

I too used the grey and black leads. Sounds as good if not better than stock for much less money...

Thanks for all the good posts. It really helped.


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post #255 of 433 Old 01-19-2012, 12:33 PM
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Hi Hope Im not bumping an old thread but ,I just replaced my POS sub with the pyramid and it was possibly the most painless reinstall I have ever done. Thanks to Archer Ace and all who contributed. It blew a while back and i niether wanted to go bigger or pay Mopar $399. hahahahahahahahahaha, sorry) for the same worthless $2 paper cone crap that came with my LJ. So thank you again for the awesome right up "with photos" . My god following this board for three years first time I had somthing worth a S%$^ to say . Thanks again.

PS Mopar $399 hahahahahahahahhhahahahaah.
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