How To Replace The Factory Subwoofer - Page 16 - JeepForum.com
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post #226 of 433 Old 05-12-2011, 11:05 AM
gily25
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Sorry if this is a duplicate info but I just noticed quadratec has offered a DVC sub that will fit in the center console and provide the best function for the oem unit. Doesn't have an ohm rating but the fit looks good and the cone is made of coated paper which is a plus over the oem standard paper. Killer part tho is the price at 89.99.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_1001.htm


iPhone app user; excuse typos...thanx.
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post #227 of 433 Old 05-12-2011, 01:55 PM
rastadog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gily25 View Post
Sorry if this is a duplicate info but I just noticed quadratec has offered a DVC sub that will fit in the center console and provide the best function for the oem unit. Doesn't have an ohm rating but the fit looks good and the cone is made of coated paper which is a plus over the oem standard paper. Killer part tho is the price at 89.99.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/14133_1001.htm
You're definitely paying a premium...but it's plug and play and the rated identical with the factory unit. For those that don't want to dremel and drill it's perfect.

thanks!

2001 Anniversary Edition Wrangler
2.5" OME HD Lift on ProComp M/T 32"s. Aussie Locker in front. Skid Row armor & fresh radiator fluid.
XM Satellite Radio - SKYFi2 and some cosmetic mods.
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post #228 of 433 Old 05-12-2011, 06:15 PM
wpark013
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Kicker CVT65




My build thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/black-sahara-build-972965/
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post #229 of 433 Old 05-12-2011, 06:30 PM
doshounds22
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[QUOTE=wpark013;11531724]Kicker CVT65

Ditto on the Kicker, very little cutting and is a superior speaker for less money than the Quadratec unit, loving mine!!!
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post #230 of 433 Old 05-17-2011, 08:23 AM
rastadog
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I replaced mine yesterday with the Quadratec unit. Very nice to plug-n-play with no grinding, drilling or incorrect ohm load. The replacement unit comes with new foam material for a good seal and washers for the new sub. FWIW, my factory sub box had poly fill from the factory.

My factory sub was completely disintegrated...I had replaced my other speakers a while back - I had no idea the sub was in such bad shape. It's a big improvement.

2001 Anniversary Edition Wrangler
2.5" OME HD Lift on ProComp M/T 32"s. Aussie Locker in front. Skid Row armor & fresh radiator fluid.
XM Satellite Radio - SKYFi2 and some cosmetic mods.
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post #231 of 433 Old 05-17-2011, 05:54 PM
jwaller89
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I replaced my stock sub with the kicker sub over the weekend. I'm pushing 200 watts to it. I'm getting a noise sounding like there's a small hole in the box that is leaking air. Anybody else have this problem? Its bugging the crap out of me.
Or anyone know how to fix it?

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post #232 of 433 Old 05-18-2011, 08:13 PM
172heavy
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Stupid Question

If you are trying to use a 4ohm sub (SVC) couldnt you install a 4ohm resistor in parallel to reduce the total load to approx 2ohm? or would this mess with the frequency response?

2003 Sahara W/31" Mickey Thompson MTX
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post #233 of 433 Old 05-18-2011, 08:21 PM
02SurfBlueTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 172heavy View Post
If you are trying to use a 4ohm sub (SVC) couldnt you install a 4ohm resistor in parallel to reduce the total load to approx 2ohm? or would this mess with the frequency response?
Technically you COULD, trick is you'll need a resister large enough to handle the power ouput of the Amplifier and I'm pretty sure they factory amp is about 65W max out.. but half of your current will be going thru the resistor so you really won't gain anything. Sure you'll draw more power will be pulled from the amp, but it will just be dissipated in heat via the resistor.

Basically you would complicate your setup, risk frying something and not gain any sound output.
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post #234 of 433 Old 05-18-2011, 08:25 PM
172heavy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02SurfBlueTJ View Post
Technically you COULD, trick is you'll need a resister large enough to handle the power ouput of the Amplifier and I'm pretty sure they factory amp is about 65W max out.. but half of your current will be going thru the resistor so you really won't gain anything. Sure you'll draw more power will be pulled from the amp, but it will just be dissipated in heat via the resistor.

Basically you would complicate your setup, risk frying something and not gain any sound output.
Thanks, I was just curious, it seemed a little too easy to be worth while.

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post #235 of 433 Old 05-28-2011, 11:35 PM
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Just did this with the blown out speaker in my 04 wrangler. I used the Audiopipe 6 inch DVC, purchased from a retailer on amazon, and it sounds great. It has a higher resistance ohm rating, but still sounds good with just an adjustment to the bass level to compensate. Had to do the dremel work as shown in the step by step pictures, but it was very easy with knowing what to expect from this posting.

I read a lot of these posts with people having bad sound and blown amps later. I think a lot of that comes from people being confused about the wiring. I don't remember the colors but my factory sub had 2 wires on each side, with one small connector (negative) and one larger connector (positive) for each voice coil. The setup is made for dvc, just twisting wires together without knowing which is pos and neg guessing on color alone is a recipe for blowing an amp or brand new woofer.

This is my first post here, thanks for this great post on this great site. Made this job a breeze.

Michael
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post #236 of 433 Old 06-15-2011, 05:00 PM
Ecksel
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What size are the three screws in the 8th pic? My center console is missing two of them. Im getting ready to swap my sub with the Quadratec speaker, want to make sure I have all the hardware to do it right.
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post #237 of 433 Old 07-06-2011, 05:17 AM
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I replaced my stock sub with the Kicker CVT652 CompVT Shallow 6.5" 2 Ohm sub today - piece of cake. The red and black factory cables worked on the corresponding terminals on the Kicker Sub.

Here are some photos



I reamed out the inner plastic reinforcing with a pair of tin snips and a dremel


Cut a notch for easier cable routing



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post #238 of 433 Old 07-27-2011, 10:15 AM
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I just did this mod on my 2004 using the Kicker recommended here. When I tested it out in the garage, the sub seemed fine. Now that I have listened to it for a little while, it seems like the output is less than the factory sub. My factory had a red-black pair and a white-brown pair of wires. I connected the red and black and tied off the white-brown so they wouldn't touch or rattle. I recall reading that the 4 wires are merged in the wiring anyway.
Do I need to open it back up and use all 4 wires? In what combination?
If I Did do it right, I'd recommend going the $13 route instead of the $6x kicker option.

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post #239 of 433 Old 07-27-2011, 02:43 PM
Baseplate
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berryjr - are you running the 2Ohm Kicker or the 4 ohm? The 2 Ohm is the one to use.

Mine is connected on red and black only and is louder with less distortion than the stock prior to me blowing it....
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post #240 of 433 Old 08-05-2011, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baseplate View Post
berryjr - are you running the 2Ohm Kicker or the 4 ohm? The 2 Ohm is the one to use.

Mine is connected on red and black only and is louder with less distortion than the stock prior to me blowing it....
Pardon my late reply. I subscribed to the thread so I would see updates but it didn't work...

Here is the item I ordered: Kicker CompVT 08CVT652 65-Inch 2-Ohm 165mm SVC Subwoofer

It could just be my recollection that is the problem. This 6.5" should sound like a DB Dragrace system right?

IDK, I was holding the console while checking the sound in the garage. I thought it sounded okay and I didn't really want to start shorting wires and risk blowing anything. Do you know - if I short/connect the wrong wires, is it going to blow the sub or amp instantly? Or do I have a little leyway to test different wiring configurations?

Red 2004 TJ
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