I went the Bazooka route...pretty disappionted. I'm going to end up going to walmart and picking up a cheapo 2ohm amp to power it more efficiently.
[QUOTE=Jerry Bransford;7680937]You'll play hell cutting in front of any veteran waiting his turn to piss on Jane Fonda's grave and you sure as hell won't cut in front of me. [/QUOTE]
I've read this tread and am very interested in going this same route - I looked at my console, pulled it up a bit and then realized - there's no sub in there! Guessing that means this isn't an option for me or is it possibly hidden somewhere else?
Thanks to the OP and excellent knowledge posted by others. Just bought an 01 TJ with a blown stock amp. I'm going to follow the instructions tomorrow morning to disconnect it to get rid of the annoying buzz, then order the pyramid to get a replacement.
First off, thanks to ArcherAce for great step by step instructions on how to replace a blown subwoofer. Anyone who has had this problem can relate to how frustrating it is to have to significantly degraded performance without the subwoofer.
I chose to use a subwoofer with slightly better performance, and found the Kicker 10CVT654 CompVT shallow-mount 6.5" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com. Decent price and great sound (about $100). Chose to go with a higher end sub as I'm hoping to upgrade the rest of the sound system in the future. Of note, although Crutchfield provides step by step instructions for installing anything you buy from them, they do not have instructions for the console subwoofer.
Couple of changes I had to add to ArcherAce's instructions.
1) There was a small clip holding the wiring harness in place which iI had to contend with after disconnecting the wiring husk. I ended up breaking the clip as it was easier and didn't seem to doing anything useful.
2) There are two screws inside the console (in the accessory tray) that holds the sub enclosure in place. I figured this out after removing the 3 external screws and still having trouble sliding out the enclosure.
3) Wiring - The Kicker Sub came with 2 terminals (black and red). After talking to a Crutchfield adviser they said the Jeep Speaker was reverse wired. They suggested attaching the Black and Grey wires to the Red sub terminal, and the Red and Brown wires to the Black sub terminal. This seemed to work just fine.
Sub sounds great, and thanks again ArcherAce for the great go-by.
I just finished the replacement of my factory sub with the Goldwood GW-406D. It is a dual voice coil sub and the only DVC that seems to be available. I had to remove the cover on the amp so that it would fit. I will post opinions as soon as I get it all bolted back together. Here are side by side pics of the factory sub and the new unit. Thanks again for the writeup.
Perfect write up. Helped me a lot. I replaced mine with the Pyramid sub suggested.....it worked great (or acceptably) for about 4 months. Then, it started to distort...almost like the wires were loose. I took it apart to find nothing obvious....nothing really out of place. Sometimes the sub didn't do anything....but if I pressed on the surface of the sub it would come to life. It sounded fine as long as I applied pressure to the surface....but as soon as I let go...it distorted greatly and would sometimes even go dormant again. Needless to say this sort of sound is QUITE annoying and I had to remove it.
I am now going to pull the trigger on the kicker replacement suggested in this thread.....we'll see.
Got it up and running. Had to pull it out because after I hooked it, I stumbled on to another topic and realized that I had wired it backwards. I always thought red was supposed to be positive and black negative. So the red and brown leads are neg and black and gray are positive. It sounds better than the stock sub so far.
I see some people purchasing the Kicker 10CVT654 (4 Ohm) and some opting for the Kicker 10CVT652 (2 Ohm). What will work with a factory system? Does the $60 Kicker sub sound better than the $20 Pyramid?
If you are talking strictly about the sound quality, they will probably be different but in such a low powered application, to most non-audiophiles it will be a non -issue.
Just think about this though, pyramid is a cheap, flea market company that uses deceptive marketing tactics such as completely fake and made up power numbers--- also their products are of cheap quality. Again in a low powered small application, this may not matter too much.
Kicker is an american company and I think they still make some of their products in the USA. Another thing to consider, is that if you ever want to sell it, the kicker will have some sort of resale value-- while virtually nobody will want a single pyramid 6.5" sub.
If the factory sub truly is a 1 ohm sub, the 2 ohm kicker would be a better bet since its closer to the impedance of the factory sub.
Just my 2 cents having experience with both brands over 10 years (most pyramid experiences have been replacing customers blown pyramid amps and subs!)