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Unread 05-18-2011, 12:01 AM   #1
julietkilo
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How to properly wire the stock TJ subwoofer

The design of the amp is a bridge tied load so there is no way to actually bridge the amp. That is a common misconception. The best way is to just use a pair that is already taped togeter, either one will work. The amp can only see one set as the circuitry is designed for only a 2 ohm inverted signal (BTL) and can only be used on seperate coils, there is no way to run our little stock amps more than 40 watts at 2 ohms.

So buy a 2 ohm sub. I recommend the KICKER CVT652 6.5. It will be more midbass but the TJ sub was never designed to resonate. If you want big bass look elsewhere this will just pick up the low frequencies for a nicer fill.













Below is my 100 amp 220volt power supply (big amp testing) oscilloscope and other testing goodies. I have tested auto amps for years and can tell you this little thing just wont bridge unlike what has been thought as correct on the board for years. The traces are inverted signals ran on 2 voice coils because any bridging would just null what is already on the circuit board.







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Unread 06-21-2011, 08:46 AM   #2
Tremelune
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Quote:
The amp can only see one set as the circuitry is designed for only a 2 ohm inverted signal (BTL) and can only be used on seperate coils, there is no way to run our little stock amps more than 40 watts at 2 ohms.
Can you elaborate on this a bit? If wiring a 2ohm SVC woofer with one set of wires works as well as wiring a 2ohm DVC woofer in parallel with both sets of wires, why would Jeep bother with a DVC woofer at all? Am I correct in thinking that both wiring scenarios produce a 2ohm load with a BTL amp (which is a bit counter-intuitive...or at least uncommon)?

Most threads that turn up when searching for "console subwoofer" and the like usually present differing information, and it's easy to see why: It would seem that BTL amps are rare in the aftermarket/consumer car audio space. We should try and set the record straight here.

As an aside, do you know if this amp have any crossovers? My ears are telling me that the dash/soundbar speakers run through a HP filter and the sub runs through a LP filter, but there just doesn't seem to be enough bits on that amp to accomplish this. My main question is, would I have to run new speaker wire to the dash/sound pods if I disconnected the subwoofer amp?

As none of this pertains to any other Jeep but the TJ, I would say this belongs in the TJ Technical forum, but I digress...


Edit: If this thing had crossovers, there would be a set of input and output wires for the front/rear speakers...I guess it just takes those four channels as input and mixes them into a mono signal that is output to the subwoofer.
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Unread 06-21-2011, 08:50 AM   #3
Tremelune
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For completeness, the sub wiring diagram:



The subwoofer amp fuse is #3 (according to this thread--It should be marked on the diagram in the glovebox).
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Unread 08-14-2011, 10:40 PM   #4
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So my sub popped today. From pics I've seen the factory sub has 4 wires? If I get the kicker it only has two terminals correct? How do I configure the wires? Seems you would twist two together and crimp them in a spade connector then do the other two the same. Would this be correct?
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Unread 08-18-2011, 02:34 PM   #5
julietkilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tremelune View Post
Can you elaborate on this a bit? If wiring a 2ohm SVC woofer with one set of wires works as well as wiring a 2ohm DVC woofer in parallel with both sets of wires, why would Jeep bother with a DVC woofer at all? Am I correct in thinking that both wiring scenarios produce a 2ohm load with a BTL amp (which is a bit counter-intuitive...or at least uncommon)?

Most threads that turn up when searching for "console subwoofer" and the like usually present differing information, and it's easy to see why: It would seem that BTL amps are rare in the aftermarket/consumer car audio space. We should try and set the record straight here.

As an aside, do you know if this amp have any crossovers? My ears are telling me that the dash/soundbar speakers run through a HP filter and the sub runs through a LP filter, but there just doesn't seem to be enough bits on that amp to accomplish this. My main question is, would I have to run new speaker wire to the dash/sound pods if I disconnected the subwoofer amp?

As none of this pertains to any other Jeep but the TJ, I would say this belongs in the TJ Technical forum, but I digress...


Edit: If this thing had crossovers, there would be a set of input and output wires for the front/rear speakers...I guess it just takes those four channels as input and mixes them into a mono signal that is output to the subwoofer.
I belive they used the BTL because its the cheapest way to get full power from the cheap IC. using a mosfet setup would require more parts. THe BTL allows a signal that is inverted to run two coils more effiecently. Its "seeing" two loads. but with a SVC it can only run one load, otherwise the BTL has no way of sending signal to the other inverted Circuit. If you really are interested look at the spec sheet and trace out the IC. Its weird. Its just a backwards circuit turned around 180 degrees of phase to get a second signal, thus two coils required.

I belive there is a filter in this circuit, there are no highs in the woofer in the middle console. I use it for Mid Bass right now. I am in the process of getting together a budget HIFI system hand pieced and this will provide the heavy mids, a real subwoofer will get the 80 HZ and lower in a box in the rear of the Jeep.
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Unread 08-18-2011, 02:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1orangerubi View Post
So my sub popped today. From pics I've seen the factory sub has 4 wires? If I get the kicker it only has two terminals correct? How do I configure the wires? Seems you would twist two together and crimp them in a spade connector then do the other two the same. Would this be correct?
No just use one set of the wires in the picture above, just pick a pair, twisting wires together will "short" the chip and will DO NOTHING for performance. One set of wires will still sound good.
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Unread 08-19-2011, 09:46 AM   #7
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Well I guess I'm gonna be pulling my console out. I leaned over to lock the right door this morning and all of a sudden the woofer kicked in. Something loose in there. But at least it sounded ok - like the cone is still intact.

BTW - I'm no stereo guy. All this bridging/BTL/yadda yadda stuff is over my head. I installed a new JVC head unit (I know soldering and all that, just not circuits). I'll have to see if any of the 'proEQ' settings affect the sub.

But hey! It works!
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Unread 11-02-2011, 06:12 PM   #8
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So, I do not want to go to the expense of new sub box due to the lack of space. I was looking at the Pioneer TS-SW841D and the mounting depth is less than the Goldwood GW-406D that I have in there now by 3/4 inch. The Pioneer is a SVC. So which wires should I use and which should I tape off? Also how complicated would it be to replace the factory amp but wire it into the factory sub harness? Thanks for the help.
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Unread 11-02-2011, 08:53 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by terpsmandan View Post
So, I do not want to go to the expense of new sub box due to the lack of space. I was looking at the Pioneer TS-SW841D and the mounting depth is less than the Goldwood GW-406D that I have in there now by 3/4 inch. The Pioneer is a SVC. So which wires should I use and which should I tape off? Also how complicated would it be to replace the factory amp but wire it into the factory sub harness? Thanks for the help.
Use the red and black wires, and tape off the other two.

If you wanted to hack the harness you opportunities are endless but there isnt any place to put an amp around that location and you would need to run larger power wire since the stock sub is something like 10 amps. I am going to pull my sub and stock amp and use an XM-1S tucked away for sub woofer use. Have it sitting here in front of me and no time to install it.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 03:04 PM   #10
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Thanks.
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Unread 11-06-2011, 08:25 AM   #11
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Thanks for the tips. I didn't realize those kicker subs were so in expensive. They are all over ebay for $60.
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Unread 11-06-2011, 08:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terpsmandan View Post
Thanks for the tips. I didn't realize those kicker subs were so in expensive. They are all over ebay for $60.
Yup, I bought mine refurbished and there has never been a problem with it. I think i got it for 50ish.
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Unread 11-07-2011, 04:11 PM   #13
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One other thing. Did you put poly fill in the sub? If so, how much? My stock biz has a goldwood dvc and is about half filled. Also what is your opinion of poly fill in the dash and sound pods? Thanks.
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Unread 11-07-2011, 05:43 PM   #14
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One other thing. Did you put poly fill in the sub? If so, how much? My stock biz has a goldwood dvc and is about half filled. Also what is your opinion of poly fill in the dash and sound pods? Thanks.
POLY FILL ALL ENCLOSURES. The amount depends on the enclosure but I would make it more dense the larger the driver. The Pods in my Jeep Front 4" and Rear 5.25" are filled. When they arent the plastic "rings" like a hollow can on some acoustic songs. Make the subwoofers dense about 16 oz of fill per cubic foot.
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Unread 11-08-2011, 04:42 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by julietkilo

POLY FILL ALL ENCLOSURES. The amount depends on the enclosure but I would make it more dense the larger the driver. The Pods in my Jeep Front 4" and Rear 5.25" are filled. When they arent the plastic "rings" like a hollow can on some acoustic songs. Make the subwoofers dense about 16 oz of fill per cubic foot.
So how much does that equate to in the stock TJ enclosure and how do you secure the poly full behind the dash speakers? Thanks again for all the tips and advice.
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