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Unread 11-09-2013, 03:48 PM   #1
dtbingle
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Help with installing remote start

I recently bought the Viper 4104 and XpressKit DBALL bypass module remote start equipment. Looking at the manuals, I think I understand what I have to do with most of the wires, but a little lost on certain parts.

In the dball manual, it shows this:


It shows various signals such as door status, trunk status, door lock, door unlock, etc and those signals are shown to run between the bypass module and the remote start, but don't show any connections outside of that. Do any of these signals need to be tapped into the car? I'm not following how the car functions such as door lock/unlock would be controlled if there isn't any connection to those wires. The only thing I can think of is that the bypass module is hooked up to the remote start unit with no other connections and then the bypass module can fake a signal and somehow control these functions through the CANH/CANL signals? Any info on installing this thing would be great.

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Unread 11-10-2013, 05:55 AM   #2
festerw
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My rudimentary understanding of the multiplex wiring is that it uses different voltages/resistances to control various functions so on the #12 connector the #8 and 9 connections would essentially control all of the functions.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 09:36 AM   #3
dtbingle
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That actually makes a lot of sense. I think I get it now, thanks!
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Unread 11-12-2013, 02:38 AM   #4
Icarus
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The less wire way is called d2d (data2data) and the other is w2w (wire2wire). They give you both options as some vehicles and remotes starts have issues d2d, so need to be done the old way for reliability. You only do it one way or the other. You need to get it flashed with the newest firmware for you vehicle. You'll hopefully be fine D2D. Solder and shrink-wrap connections to have it last the longest fwiw...
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Unread 11-13-2013, 12:48 PM   #5
dtbingle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icarus View Post
The less wire way is called d2d (data2data) and the other is w2w (wire2wire). They give you both options as some vehicles and remotes starts have issues d2d, so need to be done the old way for reliability. You only do it one way or the other. You need to get it flashed with the newest firmware for you vehicle. You'll probably be fine d2d. Solder and shrink-wrap connections to have it last the longest fwiw...
Okay so from my understanding, in the diagram in my first post, I can leave out all of those wire connections that are blue/dashed, as the key notes that they are not required for d2d. Since I'll be using the d2d method (the xpresskit compatibility chart says it should work with my vehicle), I will need to program the module. To do this, I'm guessing I will have to purchase the XKloader to flash it with the newest firmware for the vehicle?

Now the remote start unit has these four main connectors on it. Does using the bypass module in d2d mode mean that on the 24-pin auxillary harness/3-pin door lock harness, I DON'T need to connect any of the wires for door lock/unlock, trunk release, ignition 1 output, etc and that I really only need to wire up the pins on the main 6-pin connector and 8-pin remote start connector?

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY
H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
H2/2 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
H2/4 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/5 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT*
H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
H2/11 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT
H2/13 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/15 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)
H2/18 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity)
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/21 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT
H2/24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT

Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2 RED/WHITE +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT
H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY
H3/8 RED/BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT
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Unread 11-13-2013, 05:57 PM   #6
Icarus
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The 4104 has a D2D XpressKit port on it that would go to the Dball.

I'm not well versed on the newer stuff but yes, it looks like all you'd need is that D2D wiring between the RS module and the Dball I just mentioned, and some of the wires from the two harnesses you mentioned (6-H1 and 8-H3 pin ones) on the RS module. You would need to have the Dball with the newest firmware for your vehicle.

Did they give you a wiring sheet for your vehicle?

Here is a 2010 Liberty install pictorial, not sure how different it is from the 2011: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...ID~135101~PN~1
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Unread 11-14-2013, 09:48 AM   #7
dtbingle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icarus View Post
The 4104 has a D2D XpressKit port on it that would go to the Dball.

I'm not well versed on the newer stuff but yes, it looks like all you'd need is that D2D wiring between the RS module and the Dball I just mentioned, and some of the wires from the two harnesses you mentioned (6-H1 and 8-H3 pin ones) on the RS module. You would need to have the Dball with the newest firmware for your vehicle.

Did they give you a wiring sheet for your vehicle?

Here is a 2010 Liberty install pictorial, not sure how different it is from the 2011: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...ID~135101~PN~1
Okay perfect. Someone may correct me on this, but I believe the wiring is identical on the 2011 as the 2010 so that link will be very helpful. Thanks a ton for clearing things up, I feel (somewhat) confident about installing this thing now haha.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 07:25 PM   #8
Icarus
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i've done lots of older vehicles, but not much of the real new stuff unfortunately. I hope it helped somewhat.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 10:07 PM   #9
dtbingle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icarus View Post
i've done lots of older vehicles, but not much of the real new stuff unfortunately. I hope it helped somewhat.
It definitely has. I'll let you know if my car self destructed or not after my first attempt to wire it up haha
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Unread 11-28-2013, 04:06 PM   #10
dtbingle
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So I've been waiting for a break from the cold weather to install it, but it doesn't look like it's going to happen anytime soon. Just going to try and not freeze tomorrow. Anyway, I've prewired a bit after comparing the remote start manual and looking at this wiring diagram for the liberty (http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wir...erty/1174.html).

Please let me know if you see any glaring problems with my proposed installation below - it will be in D2D Mode. Only the bolded wires will be installed and I believe that is all that is needed.

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY

H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
H2/2 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
H2/4 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/5 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT*
H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
H2/11 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT
H2/13 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/15 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)
H2/18 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity)
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/21 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT
H2/24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT

Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2 RED/WHITE +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT
H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY
H3/8 RED/BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT

And then from the DB-ALL:
CANH/CANL on the blue connector
Multiplex Outputs and RAP off on red connector
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Unread 11-28-2013, 09:22 PM   #11
Icarus
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I'd post it up on the12volt.com and ask. I'd possibly look for the T-harness they about (CHTHD2 T-Harness R1-R6) as it'd be a lot easier it looks like? I'm not sure about the ignition wires on H3 and if a starter wire is even needed on this one (I hate DEI diagrams!) It also sounds like the parking light wire needs to cut and relay isolated off of H1?
Sounds like a tach wire might need to be run as well (easy enough to do as you need to get a hood pin wire out there anyways.)
That note on the link you provided on the Commando site about the factory alarm disarm is weird too, though I think the dball does that?

I'd try to get some better answers here or the12volt first, as mine is getting much less helpful and probably more confusing, sorry.
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Unread 01-14-2014, 04:00 PM   #12
dtbingle
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For an update, it finally works! These are the only wires I needed to connect for the remote start and functions to work in D2D mode. I also bought that CHTHD2 T-Harness, which made things much quicker. In general, I needed to connect a few +12v wires, a few grounds, and the pink ignition wire from the T-harness to the ignition wire on the remote start module.

I ran a dedicated power line from my battery and my grounds to a bolt in the driver side kick panel where other factory electronics are grounded.
Wires connected in install (bolded ones are connected):

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY
H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
H2/2 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
H2/4 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/5 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT*
H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
H2/11 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT
H2/13 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/15 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)
H2/18 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity)
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/21 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT
H2/24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT

Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2 RED/WHITE +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT
H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY
H3/8 RED/BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT


Two problems I encountered were having to set the remote start option to 'automatic' transmission because it defaulted to 'manual'. The second was the remote start would occasionally trigger the factory alarm. This was fixed by changing the settings on the DB-ALL so that the remote start process was set to 'SafeLock' instead of 'Enabled'.
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Unread 01-16-2014, 12:54 AM   #13
Icarus
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I'm glad you got it figured out! I figured that T-harness would make it easier, but I kept looking into it way too much, lol...
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