[CHRRRIS]

So way long back I had been talking with a guy who had an amazing system in his Dodge Stealth and seemed to know a worl of audio and sub "set-ups".

So I had told him I have a Wrangler and was looking for a single sub; something cheap, that would fit, and had some pretty good base at the same time.

Within a short amount of time, he told me a set-up he thought would work very well with what I've got.

-I already have an aftermarket Pioneer HU, (Forgot exact model, can find out if you want to know).

So he said go with this:

-Kicker CVR 12" 4 OHM Sub -HAVE-
-Profile AP700M amp (http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/AP700M/detail.asp) -Need to purchase still-

I bought the sub a while back and then short after I custom made a box that fits behind the rear seat. I am thinking of having the sub face the back seat, rather than have it "shoot" right off the tailgate...does that seem like a good idea or no?

And also, I will fab-up a long flat cover, carpeted, so if anyone looks behind the backseat, they will only see that, and I will have it locked, like instatrunks, so nobody can just pick it up and take my sub and amp.


So, does that sub/amp combo seem pretty nice? Think it will sound nice behind my backseat facing the backseat? Think my stock speakers will be OK with the set-up as well?

All input is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[IAJack]

Do the rear in-seat box sub mount. The sound is great and the stealth factor is best. This then still leaves some room behind the seat for tools or gear.

[Exparrot]

It's going to sound like crap if you ever take your top off. It's a lot easier to get decent sound from a sub with a hard or soft top on, since the tops themselves keep the sound wave inside the cab, than it is to get good sound topless.

If you ever plan on going topless, find something that will work downfiring. Downfiring keeps the sound inside the body tub longer. If you're fine with keeping a roof over your head, fire it into the back of the rear seat. Should sound fine.

[mylt1]

Originally Posted by IAJack

Do the rear in-seat box sub mount. The sound is great and the stealth factor is best. This then still leaves some room behind the seat for tools or gear.

he's not gonna fit a 12 kicker in a stealth box.

[nichols077]

i agree down firing is the way to go. i have one 10" with no top and have plenty of bass with the rear trunk setup you were talking about except its downfiring

[CHRRRIS]

Originally Posted by nichols077

i agree down firing is the way to go. i have one 10" with no top and have plenty of bass with the rear trunk setup you were talking about except its downfiring

Do you have any pictures? And mind telling me the sub and amp you have? And if there was anything you would change to get even better bass, if you were to do it over? PM me if you like, or just post here.

If a 10" downfiring is a better route, I'd rather sell the 12" and get it all done the right way.

[JSBlu974X4]

what downfiring sub/box combos are there for wranglers?

[nitwit527]

i have dual tens in a inseat sub box...they arnt facing completely down i have them angled slightly to towards the front, since the weathers been sweet in jersey ive finally tested it out with the top off....simply amazing, sounds a lil dif but not by much, i still feel the bass on the highway and IMO and others.. sounds great....im more then happy

[Luda]

im looking @ doing the inseat dual 10 install, but its a decent amount of work. the behind the seat install would be a bit easier, but not as stealth. if you got that route get a good 10" [pm me if you want some more details] and give it .75-1.5 cuft sealed and down firing and you should have some pretty good bass response.

oh, and BTW profile amps are weak, you get what you pay for with car audio, so save up a little longer and get something that gonna last.

[Exparrot]

I dunno, my behind the rear seat box isn't all that noticable. Plus it's bolted to the floor and wedged in behind the seat, so I'm pretty sure it's not going anywhere.

I'm using two Infinity Reference 1042w's, powered by an old Infinity Beta Digital 100. There's no shortage of bass with no top.

Agree with Profile, but as far as bang for the buck, they're the best you're going to find. And in a topless jeep, I see no point dropping a $1,000 amp in when it's GOING to get wet.

[C2U5H]

Down-firing is indeed the best option for topless vehicles. Keeps the sound waves inside the cab longer than any other configuration.

Ha...it's not the prettiest sub box...but it works. 600W RMS 10"




~J

[Luda]

waterproof enclosure for the amp [plexiglass box with sealed edged and all the wire holes sealed with gromits and silicon] your most likely not going to be running a ton of power, so overheating shouldnt be an issue.

thats what im looking at doing, although i am looking at over a 1000WRMS so heat could become an issue

[mylt1]

Originally Posted by Luda

waterproof enclosure for the amp [plexiglass box with sealed edged and all the wire holes sealed with gromits and silicon] your most likely not going to be running a ton of power, so overheating shouldnt be an issue.

thats what im looking at doing, although i am looking at over a 1000WRMS so heat could become an issue

2 10's and 1000 watts rms? explain. also yes heat will become an issue even with a small amp if its sealed. air movement around the amp is what cools it. if you seal it and dont allow the heat to escape then you will fry the amp in short order.

[C2U5H]

yea Luda, I'd definitely add a fan or two, at on top for greater water protection. newegg.com has some high rpm computer fans that would help keep light water exposure out, as longer as you have the fans blowing out and not in.

mylt1 - i'm not sure if you're confused, he just means he's going to be running two 10" subs that run on 500W RMS each...so combined would be 1000W RMS. i's not really a lot...if i ran two of my 10s i'd have to run 1200W RMS.

~J

[SirGCal]

Ya, down firing for best results in a topless Jeep.

also, for the in-seat boxes, two 10's are really pushing it considering the limited internal volume of the box. SQ will be sacrificed for SPL in that example unless you can get subs specifically designed for very small sealed enclosures. Sub selection is critical on the in-seat options anyhow.

waterproof enclosure for the amp [plexiglass box with sealed edged and all the wire holes sealed with gromits and silicon] your most likely not going to be running a ton of power, so overheating shouldnt be an issue.

ANY electronics in a sealed, air tight object is a bad idea. Even some Bazzoka amps with water cooling still need some air circulation. Never put amps inside a sub box or other box, sealed or vented. Only exception would be a properly designed, dual-vented (in and out) amp rack mount with properly calibrated amount of moving air for sufficient cooling.

Now; if the sub is the current CVR12 (Manual) , then it is a DVC sub. If you got the 4-ohm version, that's per coil. So expect it to be wired to 2-ohms to the amp. The Profile AP700M will give you a solid 350W RMSx1 @ 2-ohms and will work just fine for that sub which is capable of up to a max of 400W RMS. Profile amps aren't the best in the world but they aren't too shabby either. I actually use them quite a bit on budget builds, even some light competition work (though for that level they do require some tweaking). Some other (better, though more $) options would include (to name but a few): Alpine MRP-M450, Kicker ZX400.1