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Unread 04-30-2014, 02:20 PM   #1
ronmexico
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: illinois
Posts: 10
electrical issue-doors locking continuously while driving

1997 jeep grand cherokee laredo with 4.0.

My doors keep trying to lock while I am driving, and occasionally my volt gauge will drop to zero. After that happens I will go to start it and it won't turn over (just a single click) and no power to anything. Pull the battery cables and reinstall and it will fire right up (have to pull the cables a few times occasionally). Losing my mind on this one

Please help!

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Unread 04-30-2014, 06:02 PM   #2
CJ7-Tim
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2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronmexico View Post
My doors keep trying to lock while I am driving......
Typically caused by a short circuit in the door lock system. Start by looking at and near the drivers door hinges for broken wires, chafed insulation, and failed wire splices.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronmexico View Post
.... will go to start it and it won't turn over (just a single click) and no power to anything.
Typically caused by poor quality wire connections, and possilby made worse by a bad battery, bad alternator, or the short circuit in the door locks.


Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• leaving the lights on
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• dirty, corroded, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green.
Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)
Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.


Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.
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