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Unread 11-08-2009, 10:12 PM   #1
Jblankster
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Driving light VS long range light?

so I'm looking to pick up a set of slimlights and i have a question about which i should get.

I'm trying to decide between the 100W driving lights, or the 130W long range lights. Ive seen that pic that explains the stuff. but i still cant decide. I'm mostly going to be using it in town at night to assist with my poor lighting now, and when I'm out on the unlit back roads or doing some wheeling. i like to see whats around me, aswell as whats ahead of me. which would be the best for me?

I'm already going to be getting either the 55W replacement fogs, or a set of the 100W fogs.

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Unread 11-08-2009, 11:03 PM   #2
Jerry Bransford
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I had the same question and after talking to KC, decided on one of each (driving & long-range). It's a great combination. If you are only buying one or the other, definitely go for the long-range which is the only one that will reach out beyond the stock headlights.
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Unread 11-09-2009, 03:58 AM   #3
mark02tj
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That's interesting Jerry!! Kind of like those folks that go in for lasic eye surgery and get one eye fixed for close range focus and the other eye for long range focus!

Seriously though, do you use them one at a time or turn them both on together? Does the "long range" side just give you a longer view down one side of the road? (Not trying to be a smart-@$$ with the questions even if it sounds that way!!)

Are the long range ones street legal?
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Unread 11-09-2009, 04:42 AM   #4
Army_Chief
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I've had much the same question with respect to flood/driving/long range, but I'm not sure that I understand the intended application here, as I was fairly certain that no 100/130w KC is going to be legal for "around town" road use -- regardless of which lens/reflector combination is chosen. If the stock headlights are the chief complaint right now, then Silverstars should probably be step one, no?
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Unread 11-09-2009, 05:10 AM   #5
madrabbitt
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Jerry (and others with said combo) use them together. One light handles the mid to long range, and the other handles purely long range. You dont have as good of a spread up close as you would with a pair of driving, but the extended range is pretty nice.

I kinda like the 3 light approach. Depending on where they're getting mounted, either a pair of driving lights and a long range one in the center, or a pair of long range lights and a spread beam (or fog beam) in the center.
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Unread 11-09-2009, 06:54 AM   #6
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As I can see you expect more light with a higher wattage. A higher wattage will deliver more light.
Have you ever thought about a bigger reflector? It has a reason why good designed lights are expensive- they do not only charge you for the look. The reflector has to be designed too.

Those Hella Rallye 4000 compacts are expensive, but offer an outstanding range and illumination even with standard bulbs. You can tell the difference just by comparing the reflector.

Or do you carry something else or less than a Mag-lite(or Sure-Fire)???
.
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Unread 11-09-2009, 07:12 AM   #7
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i carry a UC3.400, but thats me.

Reflector design is more important then wattage.
I can drop a 35 watt H3 bulb into a well designed housing (like the rallye 4000 compact you mentioned) and get more usable light then a 100 watt bulb in a poorly designed housing.
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Unread 11-09-2009, 04:31 PM   #8
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well i drive a lot on unlit, empty roads in my town. thats what i meant by around town.

so the driving lights dont throw any farther than stock headlights??? and the long range ONLY throws it far, and not everywhere ahead of me? i need to be able to see the road on the side of me, and down the road. i need a long, wide pattern.
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Unread 11-09-2009, 05:32 PM   #9
Jerry Bransford
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The long-range light isn't a "pencil beam", it'll be fine for what you want. And yes I run both lights, the driving and long-range, off one switch. I wired the driving light relay control coil so it only gets 12 volts when my high beams are on. So while I can drive with just the high beams on without my driving lights, once I throw the KC light switch on, I can easily kill them all for sudden oncoming traffic by just flicking the high beams off. Having to shut two switches off for sudden oncoming traffic was a PITA which is why I rewired the KC driving light relay so it only works when the high beams are on.
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Unread 11-10-2009, 02:36 AM   #10
madrabbitt
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Been meaning to do that with my driving lights. I'll get around to it when I install the new ones.
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Unread 11-13-2009, 12:50 AM   #11
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I have would have to say get the driving lights over the pencil beams. I have some Hella 1000FF on my roof that has plenty off throw and spread, it travels amost twice as far as my silverstar headlights down the road and lights up the sides of the road as well. I am installing some pencil beams tommorrow if once I have them on I change my mind I will repost.
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Unread 03-13-2012, 09:41 AM   #12
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@Jerry. I'm glad I found this post, be it years old. I upgraded my stock headlights and now looking to add long range lights on a front light bar. I would like to wire the lights as you have so that they are independent on but shut off when highbeams are killed. Would you be willing to share instructions on how you wired them?
Also, while I'm in there, my current fog lights (which are great actually) turn off when the high beams are on. I'd really like them to stay on even when the HB are on. Any ideas how I can alter the configuration? It must be possible right?
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Unread 03-13-2012, 01:00 PM   #13
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^Your fog lights were wired to turn off with high beams because they are designed to be used in low visibility applications, I.E. FOG. When it's very foggy out, the last thing you want is more light and more light- fog lights help illuminate the road low to the ground so that you can at least see. When you flip to high beams, you have even less visibility.

If you want them to remain on then you need to make your own harness and switch as well because the fog lights are tied into the main harness. It's just easier and more cost effective to make their own relay with their own switch.

The driving lights you can wire into your high beams quite easily. First thing I would do is make my own relay harness for the headlights. One for low beams, one for high beams. Then simply tie the driving lights into the high beam harness so that they flick on when you flick to high beams.

KC's "Long Range" lights are pencil beam lights. They are a spot light with a narrow beam pattern designed to send light out as far down range as possible without lighting up much area around out. Mostly they were deigned for the Baja racers that need to have light as far forward in front of them, without really lighting up anything directly off to their sides.
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Unread 03-13-2012, 06:39 PM   #14
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There is a thread on bending the one pin on the fog relay for them to stay on with the high beams.

As for the long range lights you could wire them independently like the wiring diagram. Using a switch.
Or to come on and off with the high beams by splicing into the high beams in place of the switch.
You could also easily keep the switch and splice into the high beams (prior to switch and relay) and have the lights able to come on only with the switch when the high beams are on bot get shut off either by the switch or killing the high beams.

Always check if it is legal in your state to run these lights on the roads prior to altering your lights.
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Unread 03-13-2012, 07:13 PM   #15
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Always check if it is legal in your state to run these lights on the roads prior to altering your lights.
any light designed to be ran with high beams, and properly switched with the high beams, doesn't matter if it's "legal" to be ran on the road. Most people aren't going to be running their high beams, and with them their long range/driving lights, with oncoming drivers. Those who do have bigger problems to deal with.

Laws stating that certain lights are "illegal" to be used while on the streets are just stupid. Change it to "illegal to be used with oncoming traffic", and I'll be happy.
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