The M301 is an Alpine amp, (MRD-M301). Rockford might have made one but I don't remember one of that model number. The only 300W (depending on how they are wired) RF amps I can think of off the top of my head would be the P3001 (150x1 @ 4 ohms, 300x1 @ 2-ohms) or P6001 (300x1@4-ohms, 600wx1@2-ohms), They might have a few more but I don't have my catalog infront of me at the moment.
So your saying you have the AW1251SE subs? (Natural Sound 12") which hold 400W continously (RMS). Obviously, if you were going to choose between one of those amps for just one of those subs I'd get te P3001 (or the Alpine MRD-M301 would work nicely also at 350Wx1@2-ohms) and run it 300Wx1@2-ohms for that sub. It would be a nice setup.
Your friend wasn't lieing about older RF stuff. It was the shi#! Their newer stuff isn't bad either though, not by a long shot. (referring to their amps... Their subs are a little too SPL for my flavor...)
The amps won't feed more current to the speakers though; or that would be more power. For the basic part of Ohm's Law, power = voltage * current (or P = E * I). Voltage is what makes up the musical consruct. It's also what you adjust when you adjust the gain (hence, it's not a volume control). So what's left (on quality amplifiers) is current. A clean current source that can more than sustain the raised voltage levels of the amplified signal makes a clean amplifier. That doesn't mean it's going to force-feed your speakers more current though or they would be recieving more power. Alot of amps though do consume more power though to achieve this clarity and it is used in other circutry, or used up in the form of heat.
I would not worry about one amp force-feeding more current to your speakers than an equally rated amp. What I WOULD worry about is:
- the quality of the amp; is the amp going to provide my speakers with a CLEAN signal and power supply or a dirty one (cheaper tends to be dirtier... One of the things alot of people pay for are the cleaner amps which can be 2-4x the cost for the same amount of power)
- is the gain set correctly; it's not a volume control. You can't add/remove power the amp will supply. All it does is change the expected input voltage the amp recieves. Think of it as a line-input balancer. If correctly set, you shouldnt' hit amplifier clipping before 3/4" volume. (if not very near full volume, depending on the quality of the source unit)
- everything in between; The system is only as good as it's weakest link. If you have $100k in parts but use wal-mart wire 2-sizes too small to wire it all up. It will sound like pookie and will probably burn out before too long. NnF sais it alot and although I tend to think he overkills the overkill a little bit sometimes on extra extra large wires for small jobs, he does have one good point; going larger on wire NEVER hurts. (ok, accept maybe the wallet) If you want to be sure your amps are not going to be hungry for power and going to sputter on a high-current draw, you need to make sure your power wires are probably 1 size larger than they need to be; grounds also; upgrade the ground on the battery and the alternator to battery positive also. If it goes beyond that, a larger alternator is the next step. Caps are NOT power supplies. They are power filters. If you don't have the power needed from the alternator, they won't help. They only stabalize the power that you do have.
If those are all good and your components aren't junk, they should last quite a while, even with a fair share of weekend (or daily even) abuse.
Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ
Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis.
My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.