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Unread 05-23-2004, 03:05 PM   #1
JeepLib03
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Complete Audio System Install

Hello,

I'm planning on running a pretty big install of new audio equipment and was looking for advice from people who've dealt with the Jeep Liberty's audio/electrical wiring or have dealt with installing the equipment listed below (or similar). I'm going to be installing the following:

2 12" JL Subwoofers (12W3V2) -- 300 watts RMS / 500 watts PEAK -- Per Subwoofer
Alpine 6.5" Component Speakers - Front (SPX-177A) -- 60 watts RMS / 240 watts PEAK
Boston Acoustics 6.5" Coaxial Speakers - Rear (SL65) -- 60 watts RMS / 200 watts PEAK
MA Audio 15 Farad Capacitor
JL 500/1 Amp - Subwoofers
JL 300/4 Amp - Speakers
--I've got the following receiver installed currently: Kenwood KDC-X959

However, I am trying to get an idea of how to deal with the following questions:
1) Is there a Jeep Liberty electrical wiring diagram available somwhere online?
2) What gauge wire should I run considering both ease of install and what is necessary for peak performance?
--a. wire from battery to capacitor
--b. wire from capacitor to both amps
--c. wire from 300/4 to speakers
--d. wire from 500/1 to subs
3) Suggestions for high quality power and audio connections?

If you can help point me in the right direction regarding these issues in the slightest, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

-Andrew

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Unread 05-23-2004, 04:15 PM   #2
omnipseudo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepLib03
Hello,

I'm planning on running a pretty big install of new audio equipment and was looking for advice from people who've dealt with the Jeep Liberty's audio/electrical wiring or have dealt with installing the equipment listed below (or similar). I'm going to be installing the following:

2 12" JL Subwoofers (12W3V2) -- 300 watts RMS / 500 watts PEAK -- Per Subwoofer
Alpine 6.5" Component Speakers - Front (SPX-177A) -- 60 watts RMS / 240 watts PEAK
Boston Acoustics 6.5" Coaxial Speakers - Rear (SL65) -- 60 watts RMS / 200 watts PEAK
MA Audio 15 Farad Capacitor
JL 500/1 Amp - Subwoofers
JL 300/4 Amp - Speakers
--I've got the following receiver installed currently: Kenwood KDC-X959

However, I am trying to get an idea of how to deal with the following questions:
1) Is there a Jeep Liberty electrical wiring diagram available somwhere online?
2) What gauge wire should I run considering both ease of install and what is necessary for peak performance?
--a. wire from battery to capacitor
--b. wire from capacitor to both amps
--c. wire from 300/4 to speakers
--d. wire from 500/1 to subs
3) Suggestions for high quality power and audio connections?

If you can help point me in the right direction regarding these issues in the slightest, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

-Andrew

1. Im nearly sure theres one floating around this forum somewhere, check the search function. Or check google.
2. a. From your battery>cap>amp run the same gauge wire. If its 15 farads, Id say 0/1 gauge or maybe a touch smaller. **Make sure your ground wires are as big / bigger than your power leads
c. At 60w rms, id run some 14-16 gauge wire, as long as its easy to install/route through the Jeep
d. With your subs, id run 8-10 gauge wire
3. There've been many discussions on wire quality. And in my mind, MOST wire is priced at its quality. If you find a 1500w amp kit for 50 bucks and one for 20 at the same store, the 50 dollar one is gonna be a bit better obviously. If you can afford it, go with expensive stuff, Monster Wire etc. If not, check out Scoche (Wal-Mart usually), its lower budget, but still holds up nicley

EDIT : Im not sure about the Liberty, but do you know what size alternator is in there? And if you're gonna need a bigger one? (Aside from the cap)
Also when installing your stuff, try to keep your 12v, REM and ground wires away from any RCA cables you're running, this can cause a dirty signal or interference.
Also #2 : Poly fill your speakers / kick panels as long as you're putting new stuff in

Id be interested in some pics of your install as well if ya can Keep the questions coming, and good luck!
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Last edited by omnipseudo; 05-23-2004 at 04:18 PM..
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Unread 05-23-2004, 07:58 PM   #3
JeepLib03
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Thanks for the helpful reply. I was thinking of running a 2 gauge wire to the capacitor because 0/1 is most likely more than necessary. My brother knows what the FAA regulations are for how much of a load you can put on a certain gauge wire so he'll let me know if 2 gauge is too small or even more than necessary. The system was configured by an extremely high end car audio store, but as with more stores of that nature their asking price for the equipment and install was way overpriced . Therefore, I purchased the equipment online and will be doing the install on June 13 (if everything goes as planned). I would be more than happy to post pictures of the install at that time. I don't know the size of the alternator in the Liberty, but when I was quoted for my install, discussions of the battery/alternator came up, but I was assured that the Liberty would be able to handle it. Thanks again for the help and suggestions.
If anyone else has some tips or suggestions, I would appreciated the input.

-Andrew
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Unread 05-24-2004, 10:15 AM   #4
SirGCal
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The subs are great subs (I have a set of 10W3v2 subs myself which are the same magnet and coil setup, just different cone size.). Though wiring up two of those sub, I'd get the 12W3v2-D2 versions to show a 2-ohm load at the amp. Or 12W3v2-D6 versions to show a 1.5-ohm load (minimum the amp is safely rated for)

As for the wire. I would run a high-quality 4 AWG power wire with a 90-100A main fuse. 2 AWG is good here too but not necessary, though more never hurts.. 1/0 is a waste for this application. I'd run the power to a fused distribution block where you could tap the capacitor (fused again) off the input side) with the same AWG wire as main power and the amps off the fused side using the following rated fuses.

500/1 = 50A
300/4 = 40A

From there, 4 or 8 AWG power wire is plenty to the amps. (make the distribution block and caps as close to the amps as capable)

For speaker wire, 12-14 would be what I would probably run, though 16 AWG would be ok too really for the 300/4 setup and 8-10 AWG (12 at the very minimum) for the subs...) 15 farads of capacitance is extreme overkill though and not necessary. 2 farads would be more than adaquite for this setup (so the MA Audio HKC20D or HK5Q for example or a pair of regular 1 farad cans... all three of those are much cheaper and plenty of capability for your plans.) (It sounds like the store is trying to sell you on the old 15 farad bank but you do NOT need it, at all... And more than you need in farads doesn't help...) Any more than 1 farad per 500W RMS is unnecessary...

The rest of the system actually sounds diecent accept for one thing. I wouldn't mix the Boston and Alpine speakers and I further more wouldn't mix Component and Coaxial speakers. I'd use one or the other... But I'm picky... But power to speaker choices are pretty diecent. Pushing the fill speakers a bit but for real-world (and from what I know of the JL amps) you should be ok... I'd also, presonally, back off to the 10W3v2's. The hold the exact same power, require slightly smaller boxes, and will be a hair tighter and just as loud. They also have the same magnet/coil as the 12 so think of it as the same engine in a lighter vehicle... But that's really your preference..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 05-24-2004, 06:42 PM   #5
JeepLib03
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Thanks SirGCal. You specifications for wire gauge seem accurate and were similar to what I had previously thought would be required. I had also heard what you mention about the capacitor being overkill from my brother and when I was quoted at 15 farads I was really shocked (I originally thought that the guy meant 1.5 farads ). I was skeptical of mixing speakers as well, but when I heard the entire setup in a small, enclosed room I was overwhelmed. The front sound stage is the most important (therefore I have the component speakers), while the rear can easily be held with the Boston Acoustics. Both sets are extremely high quality and performed extremely well. In fact, it is my opinion (after listening to a preview of the system) that the acoustic part of my system will be where it really shines. I should have looked more into the 10W3V2's, but I have already placed an order for the 12W3V2's. I was quoted with the 12W3V2's and being that's what I heard and knew mixed well with the setup, I went ahead and ordered them.
Thanks for the help everyone, keep the suggestions coming!!

-Andrew
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Unread 05-24-2004, 06:58 PM   #6
omnipseudo
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Quote:
I wouldn't mix the Boston and Alpine speakers
Funny you should mention this, as this is the exact (mis)match I have in my TJ I really have no complaints about the speakers, and I think they sound beautiful when I turn my subs off and just run the speakers - JeepLib, dont worry about the speaker matching, as long as your install is clean and tight, it shouldnt matter too much!
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Unread 05-24-2004, 07:49 PM   #7
SirGCal
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Excelent then. It's rare that a different brand and espically different style have similar voice patterns and sound good together. As long as they don't work against each other, it's rare, but good... I love both Alpine and Bostons myself...

As for th 12", if you've ordered them, no worries.. the 10" would have just saved a little room and tightened up the low-end ever so slightly. I doubt (without them right next to each other) that you'd ever notice the difference in the real world... They should kick butt very well..

And yea, don't let the store sell you on the 15 farad super-over-kill cap bank. you don't need that. It's a waste of your space and money. If you have to just slap in a 2 farad or two one farad caps later off the power input fuse distribution block. Very simple.
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Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 05-26-2004, 08:15 PM   #8
JeepLib03
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Posts: 4
Thanks everyone for the help. I had a few questions regarding others' opinions on experiences on running the wire. For those of you with a Jeep Liberty, what did you find was the easiest way to route the audio interconnects from the head-unit to the trunk and also speaker wiring? What length RCAs did you run from the deck to the amplifiers in the back? I have a choice between 12' and 17' and I think 12' is all I need. I'm trying to get a feel of how this is going to go before I do the install. Also, I'm having the hardest time trying to find either of the two enclosures for my subs; anyone know where I can order them?:
JL Audio H.O. Wedge HO212R-W3v2
JL Audio ProWedge CVS212G-W3v2

-Andrew

Last edited by JeepLib03; 05-26-2004 at 08:28 PM..
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Unread 05-27-2004, 07:52 AM   #9
SirGCal
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Simply take a length of string and try to 'route' it to and from where you want to go and add 2' (I find I always want more than I think I do...) Then you know how much you need. 12' is pretty short... (remember, it's no strait line from the radio to the amps... Some cars I do which are very small vehicles use over 20' of patch chord...)
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Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 06-01-2004, 10:30 AM   #10
jmbrooks23
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The 15 farad cap is overkill but I know the alumapro 15 farad is easy to install and might be worth it just for that reason. It takes up less room than two cylinder type caps and it has a 1/0 awg in and 2 4 AWG out on the cap itself..... It makes for a cleaner install although you spend more money on the cap.....give and take... my $.02..
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