CB & Antenna Mount on WK's - Page 3

madrabbitt · 11-18-2009, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 555ctsv

Also i would consider using the spring (I wont be on my magnetic mount) but for a rear body mount i would suggest it. If not for breaking the antenna, to keep that mount from ripping the sheet metal screws out of the body of your WK!

Actually, its the opposite.

On a body mount, a spring will actually increase the possibility of damage. It increases the amount of kinetic energy in the antenna, and causes the antenna to whip around more during normal driving, which will stress the mounting screws in the sheet metal.

A firestik is flexy enough that it wont get damaged if snagged on something quick, like a tree branch or a bush.

I repeat my previous advice NOT to use a spring on a body mounted fiberglass whip.

madrabbitt · 11-18-2009, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizzle1979

Are you referring to the mount I bought from Saguaro?

WK Antenna Mount [S4CWK002] : Saguaro 4x Components.com| Bumpers | Tire Carriers | Rock Sliders | Jeep Components

Yes. Is it completely powdercoated, or is there bare metal inside the holes?

555ctsv · 11-18-2009, 02:34 PM

The similar mount in the thread i reference was all metal, no paint. I believe he actually added a grounded wire in addition to the sheet metal screws to improve grounding. I hear what you're saying about the antenna and think that makes sense. But further in the thread they mentioned how the top of the firestik's were adjustable because that part is responsible for either the sending or receiving? I also agree with what you said about the powder coated mount as well, i dont think that is going to ground very well at all...

What about a heavy duty spring??

Edit*** Ya know that thread i keep referring too was on a commander which has a much more vertical rear end which would block much more of the antenna than a WK would with that angled hatch. I think im still going to mount mine there as well and just make sure it's well grounded

555ctsv · 11-18-2009, 02:39 PM

Here's the mount i'll use to mount to the rear...

Fizzle1979 · 11-18-2009, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madrabbitt

Yes. Is it completely powdercoated, or is there bare metal inside the holes?

I believe is completely powdercoated. But I can take it off around the screw holes, if that is an issue.

madrabbitt · 11-18-2009, 02:46 PM

The entire antenna radiates.

To be efficient, the antenna needs to be a specific length, usually a fraction of the total wavelength of the transmitted frequency. When an antenna is tuned, you increase or decrease the length of the antenna to match that size.
Fiberglass antennas are really really long lengths of copper that are wrapped around a fiberglass stick. The tunable ones have that little bit of metal at the end that increase and decrease the length of the total antenna.

Fiberglass antennas typically have better reception, because they're basically longer antennas in a shorter package. The copper winding in my 3 foot antenna is longer then a 102 inch steel whip.

The base of the mount, as well as the outer shield on the coax, is electrically grounded to the frame of the vehicle to provide a ground plane for the antenna. That basically creates a more stable RF field for the actual radiating element, which in turn improves its efficiency. The more efficient the radiation, the stronger the signal. The center of the coax, which is whats actually attached to the antenna is isolated from that ground.

The purpose of a spring is to prevent damage to the antenna when its snagged on something. It also makes the antenna longer, which will change the tuning of the antenna, which you dont want to do unless you have to.

I run a spring on my 3 foot fiberglass antenna, because the antenna was tuned (this is the type you cut, its not adjustable) for another vehicle, and on the WJ, it was too short to get a good SWR. I dont run springs on the 4.5 foot fiberglass or the big base loaded steel whip, because it increases the amount of stress on my particular mount.

madrabbitt · 11-18-2009, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizzle1979

I believe is completely powdercoated. But I can take it off around the screw holes, if that is an issue.

Install it as is, and see what your SWR is. If its really high, then you'd probably want to use something to grind away the coating in the screw holes, and where the metal part of the stud connects to the base.

Fizzle1979 · 11-18-2009, 02:54 PM

As far as SWR meters...will any one brand work better over another? I just lost out on a Radioshack brand SWR and external speaker on ebay today by $1...guy got it for $30...I'm still not happy about that.

555ctsv · 11-18-2009, 03:38 PM

Thanks for the info rabbit. I really didnt want an adjustable antenna, too much to deal with! lol Fortunately SWR meters are pretty cheap so i guess ill go ahead and play with it.

What radio are you planning to use Fizzle?

Fizzle1979 · 11-18-2009, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 555ctsv

What radio are you planning to use Fizzle?

Do you mean CB radio? Cobra 75 WXST is what I have.

madrabbitt · 11-18-2009, 04:51 PM

SWR meters are pretty much the same no matter what.

Most of the time, installs just need to be tuned once, and thats it. Kind of a set and forget type thing.

If you have a truck stop or cb shop near you, you can probably have them hook up their meter and tune it for far cheaper then what a quality meter that you'll never use again will cost you.

How much space do you have to mount in the WK?

My former partner bought a WK, and we couldnt figure out where to mount the two fire and medical band radios she wanted in there.

Fizzle1979 · 11-18-2009, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madrabbitt

How much space do you have to mount in the WK?

I haven't figured that out exactly. haha

madrabbitt · 11-18-2009, 04:56 PM

well, you're just putting in the little 75. You just need a place to mount the mic, and an external speaker.
You can buy a tiny little external speaker from a truck stop... Let me go take a picture of where I mounted one of my speakers to give you a good idea.

madrabbitt · 11-18-2009, 05:42 PM

One of the speakers for the primary radio is mounted on the b-post, just above the seat belt.
Its clear and easy to hear when i'm driving.

OurayWK · 11-19-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizzle1979

Finally got all my parts in. Now I'm looking for ideas on how to run the Fire Ring cable from the back of th WK to the back of the CB inside the cab. Any ideas?

Fizzle:For the coax routing, I took the coax down through the little hole at the bumper/left tail light and under the jeep. I brought the coax back up through a small drilled hole under the rear load floor with a rubber grommet that came with the radio. From under the load floor, you can route the coax down the left side of the Jeep, under the kickplates, and right up under the dash. I mounted my remote radio box from the Cobra 75WXst behind the driver's side cubby (see screws in picture). From there, I bought a 4 foot extension cable (Amazon.com: Cobra AC 702 4-Foot Microphone Extension Cable: Electronics) to extend the mic cable around under the dash to the console. I used the Cobra dash plate to take the mic cable through the console.

Also, once I had the coax and radio all mounted where I wanted, I went to a CB shop to have the coax end soldered on (ie the part that screws onto the remote radio). You have to get this soldered once it's all positioned where you want it. And it has to be soldered a particular way to maintain good ground.

I was after a really clean install, where I didn't see anything in the Jeep except the CB mic/handset. You can make variations as you need to. Another guy mounted the remote radio box inside his cubby as you can see in the other photo. You should be able to do this yourself with basic hand tools and a hand drill. Sorry some are the pix aren't great - took them in the dark.

Good Luck!

See pictures at: Pictures by OurayWK - Photobucket