aux fuse block relay? - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Electrical, Audio, GPS, & 2-Way Radio > aux fuse block relay?

Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

Reply
Unread 03-31-2007, 10:30 PM   #1
lostissues
Registered User
1987 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: southern NH
Posts: 376
aux fuse block relay?

okay, here is my situation im looking to get this http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126 and im looking to run it switched power, the fuse block is rated at 100 amps, so far for relay/solenoids i have these ideas

http://www.theinstallbay.com/product...ual.php?id=908 rated for 80 amps, powerful enough?

http://www.theinstallbay.com/product...ual.php?id=907 rated for 200 amps, overkill?

http://texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp 3/4 down the page, here are the specks:

Continuous Duty
Universal Applications: Power Up Relays to remove loads from Ignition Switches, Including Lawn Tractors,Golf Carts, Electric Cooling Fans, and much more.
Flat Ground Base Circuit
Normally Open Circuitry SPST
Contacts : Silver
Voltage Rating 12V DC
Terminal copper; 10-32 thread
5/16"-24 thread.

just wondering which one will be the best to fit my needs, i will be using the fuse block for accessories like radar, sat radio, cb, gps and any other things i pick up along the way, i may use a second six fuse block under the hood for off road light and such, any help would be awsome thanks.

Jonathan

lostissues is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-31-2007, 11:05 PM   #2
kencaz
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Costa Mesa, OC, CA, USA
Posts: 897
Your probably better off wiring it direct to the battery with an 80 or 90 amp circuit breaker.

Then just pick up some cheap 12V SPDT relay's for the individual circuits you want to be "Switched".

You also will save by not having to purchase more expensive switches for the higher amperage equipment.

Personally, I think you would be better off using a fuse block instead. You won't have negitive at the panel but I don't know who ever wires that way anyway. Then you have the option (at each individual circuit) to have it switched or un-switched and would be cheaper in the long run...

Just a thought.

KC
__________________
My Cherokee

"I say we dust-off and nuke the site from orbit... It's the only way to be sure!"
kencaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2007, 09:58 AM   #3
Davejb
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 513
I would make the panel always live, and wire the switches to constant or switched power, and use a relay for each circuit, that way you have both.
Davejb is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2007, 10:32 AM   #4
Geeps
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: South Bay, CA.
Posts: 442
Quote:
Originally Posted by kencaz
Your probably better off wiring it direct to the battery with an 80 or 90 amp circuit breaker.

Then just pick up some cheap 12V SPDT relay's for the individual circuits you want to be "Switched".

You also will save by not having to purchase more expensive switches for the higher amperage equipment.

Personally, I think you would be better off using a fuse block instead. You won't have negitive at the panel but I don't know who ever wires that way anyway. Then you have the option (at each individual circuit) to have it switched or un-switched and would be cheaper in the long run...

Just a thought.

KC
If you decide to go this route, Bussman makes a Bolt in fuseholder that uses a 100 amp fuse, it's part numbr begins with HMG-(insert configuration options here). It does have a splash resistant cover.
They also make a Series 184 circuit breaker that is sealed and designed for engine compartments.
Geeps is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2007, 10:35 AM   #5
Scrambler82
Registered User
1982 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 3,594


Pretty much as the others have stated.

Use the Panel as a Distribution Point with In-Line Fuses.

You could get a main Relay powered by either a switch or ignition power that would control the main power going to the panel, nice but is it needed.
The replay would have to be sized for the full 100 amps or more, this relay if hooked up to a Switch on the dash would give you a little more control; I like control.

Draw a schematics and think about what you want to so before starting the project.

If you put in a 200 amp Relay, you can add another Panel to it later on.

Good Project, Luck,

kencaz,
Wiring with separate grounds back to the panel will eliminate grounding problems later on down the trail.
HAMs do it all the time, separate ground wires back to the battery and twisted pairs help to reduce noise from the power lines.
__________________
Scrambler82

Do it right the first time !

Last edited by Scrambler82; 04-02-2007 at 05:49 PM..
Scrambler82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2007, 10:50 AM   #6
kencaz
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Costa Mesa, OC, CA, USA
Posts: 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by NnF
kencaz,

Wiring with separate grounds back to the panel will eliminate grounding problems latter on down the trail.
HAMs do it all the time, separate ground wires back to the battery and twisted pairs help to reduce noise from the power lines.
I am aware of that, however, communications equipment is a little different. I don't see why anyone would run a neg back to a sub panel or even the battery for lighting or most anything else. It's just a waste of time and wire...

KC
__________________
My Cherokee

"I say we dust-off and nuke the site from orbit... It's the only way to be sure!"
kencaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2007, 11:09 AM   #7
rustywrangler
Got my eye on you.....
 
rustywrangler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 18,616
Quote:
Originally Posted by kencaz
I am aware of that, however, communications equipment is a little different. I don't see why anyone would run a neg back to a sub panel or even the battery for lighting or most anything else. It's just a waste of time and wire...

KC

I personally think it cleans the look up alot. It also eliminates grounds all over the rig and brings them back to one common ground instead of having to chase down what circut has a bad ground.
__________________

Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations

Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08
rustywrangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-02-2007, 05:57 PM   #8
Scrambler82
Registered User
1982 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 3,594
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescuer
I personally think it cleans the look up alot. It also eliminates grounds all over the rig and brings them back to one common ground instead of having to chase down what circut has a bad ground.
Ditto...

Eliminating bad grounds is all that I need to know but you are right kencaz, there is no need electrically speaking for a ground wire to be run back to the fuse panel or the battery.
The negative side of the circuit will flow through the body/frame/engine, if the ground straps are in good order, if not then the ground will look for the path of least resistance and end up going backward (neg to pos) through other components and causing all kinds of problems that no one will relate to grounding.
So, IMHO having all of the ground as close together as possible is the best way to handle Grounding in a Vehicle.

When I hook up lighting, i.e. Off-Road Lights, Rock Lights, etc I always run and will run on the new project, the grounds to a common point under the Hood and then to the battery, just my way.
This has always resulted in NO GROUND PROBLEMS and as I just said that OK by me.

ltr,
__________________
Scrambler82

Do it right the first time !
Scrambler82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-02-2007, 06:09 PM   #9
kencaz
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Costa Mesa, OC, CA, USA
Posts: 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescuer
I personally think it cleans the look up alot. It also eliminates grounds all over the rig and brings them back to one common ground instead of having to chase down what circut has a bad ground.
I think the opposite is true. Running everything back to the panel/battery only increases you chance for open circuits that are harder to trace since you have twice as much wire. If you ground at the mount location, it's much easier to check for open on a 1 foot wire then on a 15 foot wire.

If you ran all your grounds back to the battery/fuse panel, you would really have a mess. That is why the chassis it grounded in the first place.

KC
__________________
My Cherokee

"I say we dust-off and nuke the site from orbit... It's the only way to be sure!"
kencaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-02-2007, 07:47 PM   #10
lostissues
Registered User
1987 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: southern NH
Posts: 376
For this project, I plan on running the grounds back to the fuse panel, the reason is just convenience. Iím mostly using this for accessories like sat. radio, gps, cb radio, radar, and other things that I pick up, most have cig lighter plugs, so I will cut off the ends and they have the neg and pos in the same wire so they run to the same place, I will use cig lighter adaptors for the things that I want to keep the cig plug on. Also, because these things will be mounted on the dash, windshield, top of windshield, and any where else, I donít see the logic in grounding it where itís mounted as it may be hard to get to metal near the mounting location.

on the other hand, Iím planning on getting a different fuse panel: http://bluesea.com/category/5/20/productline/119 this one here to run any off road lights that I plan on getting, those I will be grounding where they are mounted because they are most likely going to be mounted to metal and what would be the point of running an extra wire all the way back from the front/back of the truck. So I choose how I ground it based on the situation.

back to the first question I asked, I think I will be getting an 80 amp continuous duty solenoid that they carry at a local Robbins about 25 bucks, I will not be putting high amperage devices on the fuse block so that should do the trick. People suggested that I use individual relays to control every device that I put into the block but that would defeat the purpose of this project for me. I planed on this to make the wiring cleaner, I didnít want to tap onto the ignition harness with 10 different things, but a fuse panel and 10 relays wired up with 10 switches would get a little messy, by putting a solenoid in line, I eliminate the relays and switches.

Jonathan
lostissues is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2007, 04:14 AM   #11
Scrambler82
Registered User
1982 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 3,594


There are all kinds of methods for Grounding of Components.

Kencaz is right about the large number of wire can cause a mess but if done with a little care will look OK.

My actual ground system will consist of four Terminal Strips, isolated from the body, one in the rear one in the mid-vehicle and two under the dash on one each side. These will be connected together in series, with one wire and then one wire will go to another terminal point under the Hood.
Why you ask, well my Bobbed CJ8 Body is made of aluminum and I wanted to try and keep all of the Electrolysis to a minimum but if I had a Standard Body made of Metal I would still do the same system.

lostissue,
Using one relay will give you control over entire panel all at once, all on or all off, which would be good for a Master Switch. Using relays after the Panel (the panel will be used as in-line fuses) gives you indiviual control over each component, which is another choice you can make along with where to guond and how.
The Panel you chose looks good but what is the cost, looks $$$$$$.
__________________
Scrambler82

Do it right the first time !
Scrambler82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2007, 09:05 AM   #12
lostissues
Registered User
1987 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: southern NH
Posts: 376
this is the switched fuse box about $31


Here is the fuse pannel with swithces about 57$

I can get the solenoid at a local auto store for about $25

The wire to provide the boxes with power and the main inline fuse for the whole box i have kicking around, i work in car audio so i have all kinds of odds and ends.

And about $17 S/H

So about $130

I plan on hooking up the solenoid to the accessory wire in my truck, that way the pannel will power up all the accessories with the key. i dont want control over each individual accessory just for them all to come on when the truck is on.

Jonathan
lostissues is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2007, 09:20 AM   #13
Geeps
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: South Bay, CA.
Posts: 442
The first fuse panel is a surface mount, nice panel btw. Here's the link to the second fuse panel with the mounting and installation instructions. It looks like a panel mount.

http://bluesea.com/category/5/20/productdocs/4306
Geeps is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2007, 09:20 AM   #14
Scrambler82
Registered User
1982 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 3,594


Prices aren't too bad the switch panel is nice but as you said do you wnat/need it.

Luck with the project.

ltr,
__________________
Scrambler82

Do it right the first time !
Scrambler82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2007, 09:59 AM   #15
jmcbroom2
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 106
I went to an audio installation store and picked up an amp install kit for like $35. It had 20 feet of 4 Gauge power wire, 125 AMP ANF fuse, ANF fuse holder and 5 feet of 4 Gauge ground wire.

I ran the wire over to the spot where the ABS system goes, made up a relay rack with 10 relay sockets and then made a switch panel to fit four 4x4mod switches next to the ashtray "blank".

It's a nice setup, clean looking and the relays are mounted upright so water doesn't sit in them.
jmcbroom2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.