Amp under dash install...Question... - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-12-2004, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
AldoD
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Amp under dash install...Question...

Has anyone put an amplifier up under the dash? There's a pretty good spot high up above the gas pedal.

I only want to power two rear aftermarket speakers in the pods, as well as an aftermarket sub hidden inside a Tuffy console, in an MDF sealed box. Blaupunkt made a PA4100 amplifier, T class, that doesn't heat up too much, so I thought that would be good to build the system around.

Anyone have experience with these amps? Thanks a lot...

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post #2 of 8 Old 02-12-2004, 01:37 PM
SirGCal
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Those amps are good for what your trying to do but farily difficult to locate.

The biggest catch to mounting them under the dash is fabricating the mounting mechanism and dealing with heat. The T-class amps are pretty good at handling heat. Adding a fan is never a bad idea... Other than that, just make sure it fits...

Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

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Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-12-2004, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
Those amps are good for what your trying to do but farily difficult to locate.

The biggest catch to mounting them under the dash is fabricating the mounting mechanism and dealing with heat. The T-class amps are pretty good at handling heat. Adding a fan is never a bad idea... Other than that, just make sure it fits...

You don't think mounting an amp under the dash is bad, seeing that it's on the firewall? I wonder if it would be good to put some heat shield behind it. I don't mind fabbing a bracket that can be drilled into the firewall...

That shouldn't be too difficult.

So far I'm liking the idea of running the two 5.25" fronts off of the head unit, and the rear two 6.5" coax speakers and the one sub off of the PA4100 amp. Now I just have to find one...

The hunt is on, and I think it's going to cost about $300.

So far, does this idea sound like it'll put out good clean sound?

I'll design the sub and speakers around the amp? Is that the right way to go? I mean, I have to jump on this amp and buy it as soon as I find it, as I haven't found any other T class amps out there...

The PA4100 is 4X100 watts... So I can put a hundred into each rear speaker, and then 200 into a sub? Is that right. The sub channels are bridged, I suppose, in that configuration. So as far as sub wattage or RMS, I need to find something that is rated for at least 200 watts RMS, right?

Thanks...

AldoD

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post #4 of 8 Old 02-12-2004, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AldoD
You don't think mounting an amp under the dash is bad, seeing that it's on the firewall? I wonder if it would be good to put some heat shield behind it. I don't mind fabbing a bracket that can be drilled into the firewall...

That shouldn't be too difficult.
No, it's not bad IF the correct amps are used and precautions are taken. Some fans can be placed to ventilate the amps under the dash and many amps now have thermal protection just in case. Also, with a T-class amp, you probably won't even need fans... The max running temp for the PA4100 is 85 deg C or 185 deg F. So it's up there quite a bit... And it doesn't even get very hot to the touch when running normally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AldoD
So far I'm liking the idea of running the two 5.25" fronts off of the head unit, and the rear two 6.5" coax speakers and the one sub off of the PA4100 amp. Now I just have to find one...

The hunt is on, and I think it's going to cost about $300.
Good Luck...

Quote:
Originally Posted by AldoD
So far, does this idea sound like it'll put out good clean sound?
Yea, those amps are pretty clean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AldoD
I'll design the sub and speakers around the amp? Is that the right way to go? I mean, I have to jump on this amp and buy it as soon as I find it, as I haven't found any other T class amps out there...
It doesn't matter which way you come from as long as everything is designed together. I've designed off of amps or subs or other requirements (as long as the requirements didn't curse the design, which sometimes happens...) But you're on the right track...

Quote:
Originally Posted by AldoD
The PA4100 is 4X100 watts... So I can put a hundred into each rear speaker, and then 200 into a sub? Is that right. The sub channels are bridged, I suppose, in that configuration. So as far as sub wattage or RMS, I need to find something that is rated for at least 200 watts RMS, right?
Yes, I believe it's going to end up being about 50W RMS to the rears (100W max into 4 ohms) and 125W RMS to the sub... (250W bridged MAX power into 4 ohms ONLY (so get a dual 2 or 8 ohm coil sub or single coil 4 ohm sub)

Quote:
Originally Posted by AldoD
Thanks...

AldoD
No problem...

Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-15-2004, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Got the amp...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
No, it's not bad IF the correct amps are used and precautions are taken. Some fans can be placed to ventilate the amps under the dash and many amps now have thermal protection just in case. Also, with a T-class amp, you probably won't even need fans... The max running temp for the PA4100 is 85 deg C or 185 deg F. So it's up there quite a bit... And it doesn't even get very hot to the touch when running normally.



Good Luck...



Yea, those amps are pretty clean.



It doesn't matter which way you come from as long as everything is designed together. I've designed off of amps or subs or other requirements (as long as the requirements didn't curse the design, which sometimes happens...) But you're on the right track...



Yes, I believe it's going to end up being about 50W RMS to the rears (100W max into 4 ohms) and 125W RMS to the sub... (250W bridged MAX power into 4 ohms ONLY (so get a dual 2 or 8 ohm coil sub or single coil 4 ohm sub)



No problem...
I bought the Blaupunkt PA4100 T-series amplifier. Found it on the web... It's been discontinued, but got it at the lowest price I could find - $260. I'll match that with the the Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD51 head unit, also discontinued, but once again found on the web, and it's sitting in my house now. Next buy will be the Tuffy rear-half console for subwoofer. Then I'll take that to an installer and talk about what sub will fit. Thinking I'll go with JL Audio, and I'll get the 6.5" or 8". I don't think a 10" is necessary. I'm going to post a thread asking anyone if they've installed an amp under the dash.

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post #6 of 8 Old 02-16-2004, 08:31 AM
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Sounds like a plan. There should be enough room in the consol that you should be able to squeze an 8" in there with the proper shoe-horn. (JL that is...)

I have done amp-under-dash before and they have turned out great. Even one with a hot-running AB type amp. The easiest TJs to put them under the dash are non-tilt wheel versions. Tilt wheel versions have alot less room, but some small amps can still fit. Use some metal to deflect any potoential heat sources (the floor heat vent for example) down and out of the way and put a fan of some type gently blowing across the amps if heat buildup is a problem. The top of the dash is pretty vacant though so most heat can escape farily easily. I'd post some pics but it's very diffucult to take any from that angle so they didn't comeout very descriptive...

Without Tilt Wheel, you can usually get 2 amps under the stearing shaft horozontally. With tilt wheel, there is enough room for one verticaly to the right of the column. You might have to re-locate some parts of the wiring harness to make room and you will have to weld up the bracing to hold the amp...

Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-16-2004, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Instead of welding a bracket...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
Sounds like a plan. There should be enough room in the consol that you should be able to squeze an 8" in there with the proper shoe-horn. (JL that is...)

I have done amp-under-dash before and they have turned out great. Even one with a hot-running AB type amp. The easiest TJs to put them under the dash are non-tilt wheel versions. Tilt wheel versions have alot less room, but some small amps can still fit. Use some metal to deflect any potoential heat sources (the floor heat vent for example) down and out of the way and put a fan of some type gently blowing across the amps if heat buildup is a problem. The top of the dash is pretty vacant though so most heat can escape farily easily. I'd post some pics but it's very diffucult to take any from that angle so they didn't comeout very descriptive...

Without Tilt Wheel, you can usually get 2 amps under the stearing shaft horozontally. With tilt wheel, there is enough room for one verticaly to the right of the column. You might have to re-locate some parts of the wiring harness to make room and you will have to weld up the bracing to hold the amp...
...do you think I can just mount the amp to a piece of wood that is drilled into the firewall? I read somewhere that attaching the amp to wood would decrease noise by eliminating a metal mounting bracket... At least, I think that's what I read...

But thanks for checking in on the process of this design... I think then that an 8" JL will be what I get. You've had experience with them?

Take it easy...

AldoD

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post #8 of 8 Old 02-18-2004, 06:26 AM
SirGCal
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You could if the wood is strong enough to hold the weight of the AMP and not break going over large bumps or anything. It might be difficult at that angle though. I often mount amps on wood when I put them under seats or on back walls of pickups and everything, but the dash of a Jeep is a weird spot and might be difficult for wood.

As for noise issues, those are alot less now than in the past. I wouldn't worry about which mounting surface it is anymore. Most amps include an internal ground loop isolator to help break out charging system and ambient noise.

JLs are known for SQ and quality. I've heard my share and installed many of them. They have a good running average in my book.

Sir G. Cal - 2k Sahara TJ

Living and loving on borrowed time. Life with Multiple Sclerosis. My MS/Life blog, Audio and Electronic write-ups, project how-tos, pictures, stories, and more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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