4"x6" Speaker Replacement - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Electrical, Audio, GPS, & 2-Way Radio > 4"x6" Speaker Replacement

The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Ruffstuff 3 Link Kit!The Ruffstuff Optima Battery Box!

Reply
Unread 03-20-2005, 08:27 AM   #31
RescuedJK
Registered User
2001 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: west brooklyn, IL
Posts: 787
dude I can get you diamond audio replacements that are going to be better than any other speaker out there at the same price off the top of my head I can do prolly do front 4x6's and rear 5.25's for like under $250 these are some of the best in the market and would compare to alpines type R components and fosgates upper line speakers, and so on and so forth just let me know!!!

RescuedJK is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 08:35 AM   #32
capecodtjeep
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cape cod, ma
Posts: 172
BTW, you won't get any bass out of 4x6. Just mid's and high's. I say definitely get 5 1/4". I had my 4x6's just laying around. I would much rather have 5 1/4". Generally speaking, bigger is better w/speakers. Try and match "RMS" and "Ohms" to your head unit. High price definitely won't insure good sound quality.
capecodtjeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 09:50 AM   #33
Lud04X
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 799
Got a reccomendations for speakers front and rear (that don't cot too much) for use with a factory stereo?

I have a CD unit and I really don't want to replace it if I don't have to but it feels like a lot of sound is missing from my music and the front vibrate the dash like crazy with any amount of Bass.
__________________
Khaki 2004 Wrangler X
OME HD Kit,JKS BMML,1.25 JKS BL, adj. control arms
RE Generation II Quick Discos
35x12.5x15 Goodyear MTR's w/ Kevlar, MT Classic II's
D44 rear axle w/ ARB, alloy shafts, 4.56 gears
Dana 30 with ARB, 4.56 gears, alloy shafts and ujoints
Lud04X is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 09:54 AM   #34
Red Rubycon
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by xjman97
dude I can get you diamond audio replacements that are going to be better than any other speaker out there at the same price off the top of my head I can do prolly do front 4x6's and rear 5.25's for like under $250 these are some of the best in the market and would compare to alpines type R components and fosgates upper line speakers, and so on and so forth just let me know!!!
Not to Hijack thread (well, just a little bit). I have infinity reference 5-1/4 in front and 6-1/2 in the back (sound pods) of my rubi. The head is an alpine, the kind with the automatic retracting face plate. I want a small, small subwoofer to get rid of the tin can sound I have now. Both clarion and jenson make small self contained units that would fit under the front seat. D/N want basslink or bazzoka or an amp. What do you suggest?
Red Rubycon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 10:40 AM   #35
2k3r1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 361
first i am going to disagree with the component speaker remark earlier. Jeeps are loud and most of the clarity that the components have will be lost. Kinda a waste of money. ESPECIALLY if you have a soft top or drive with your top off.

Also if you get 5 1/4" speakers in the front then get the EXACT same speakers for the sound bar. Voice matching
__________________
2000 TJ Sport, 4.0L, 5-spd, RE 3.5" with all 8 adj arms and adj trackbars with 35"s, D30 w/ Lockright, 8.8 rear axle, sye and CV driveshaft, M.O.R.E. 1" BL and MML, IPF headlights w/ H4 FATBOY bulbs, PSC power steering skid, rock-it man rockers, uniden pro 520xl WITH PA :)
Future mods: 4.88s and ARBs?, belly up, dif guards, Gastank Skid.
2k3r1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 11:01 AM   #36
Jerry Bransford
Do it right or not at all
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 60,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k3r1
first i am going to disagree with the component speaker remark earlier. Jeeps are loud and most of the clarity that the components have will be lost. Kinda a waste of money. ESPECIALLY if you have a soft top or drive with your top off.

Also if you get 5 1/4" speakers in the front then get the EXACT same speakers for the sound bar. Voice matching
Right after you describe how "Jeeps are loud and most of the clarity that the components have will be lost", you then suggest that the sound bar speakers must be the "EXACT" same speaker as was installed up front for voice matching?
__________________
Getting Savvy...

Coolest offroad magazine ever! CRAWL Magazine

When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 11:40 AM   #37
capecodtjeep
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cape cod, ma
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k3r1
first i am going to disagree with the component speaker remark earlier. Jeeps are loud and most of the clarity that the components have will be lost. Kinda a waste of money. ESPECIALLY if you have a soft top or drive with your top off.

Also if you get 5 1/4" speakers in the front then get the EXACT same speakers for the sound bar. Voice matching
I guess it's a matter of money. Component speakers are not a "waste of money", in my opinion. I just like to turn it up loud w/out a popping sound.
capecodtjeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 11:59 AM   #38
SpeedJeep
Web Wheeler
 
SpeedJeep's Avatar
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Posts: 1,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by capecodtjeep
I guess it's a matter of money. Component speakers are not a "waste of money", in my opinion. I just like to turn it up loud w/out a popping sound.
Most of the extra power handling comes from the wattage wasted (generating heat) in the crossovers. Very little of that extra power makes it to the speakers.
In fact, most PA speakers that are designed to be loud have no crossovers on the mids whatsoever. That popping sound comes from over excursion, something no component set alone can fix. Tweeters won't pop, they'll just die quickly and silently without some sort of passive crossover, and a simple capacitor can do that. An active crossover can fix that popping sound.
__________________
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
SpeedJeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 12:21 PM   #39
capecodtjeep
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cape cod, ma
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by baboyd
Most of the extra power handling comes from the wattage wasted (generating heat) in the crossovers. Very little of that extra power makes it to the speakers.
In fact, most PA speakers that are designed to be loud have no crossovers on the mids whatsoever. That popping sound comes from over excursion, something no component set alone can fix. Tweeters won't pop, they'll just die quickly and silently without some sort of passive crossover, and a simple capacitor can do that. An active crossover can fix that popping sound.
You say potato, I potato. You probably know more about it then I do. I guess Components are useless junk, whatever.
capecodtjeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 05:36 PM   #40
capecodtjeep
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cape cod, ma
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by baboyd
Most of the extra power handling comes from the wattage wasted (generating heat) in the crossovers. Very little of that extra power makes it to the speakers.
In fact, most PA speakers that are designed to be loud have no crossovers on the mids whatsoever. That popping sound comes from over excursion, something no component set alone can fix. Tweeters won't pop, they'll just die quickly and silently without some sort of passive crossover, and a simple capacitor can do that. An active crossover can fix that popping sound.

A component loudspeaker is a single driver designed to reproduce frequencies in a given range. Component speakers are used in tandem with other component speakers to reproduce the entire audio spectrum. As few as two and as many as four or more different size drivers can be used to create a component set. The drivers are kept operating within their designed audio band by a series of frequency filters known as a crossover. By using a crossover to keep speakers operating within a certain range the speakers do not become distorted by trying to reproduce frequencies that they are physically unable to reproduce

capecodtjeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 06:17 PM   #41
Red Rubycon
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k3r1
first i am going to disagree with the component speaker remark earlier. Jeeps are loud and most of the clarity that the components have will be lost. Kinda a waste of money. ESPECIALLY if you have a soft top or drive with your top off.

Also if you get 5 1/4" speakers in the front then get the EXACT same speakers for the sound bar. Voice matching
I've been loosely monitoring car audio for 10 years (I only know the basics though, it's not a passion of mine) and never heard of voice matching or having the same size speakers. Where is this coming from?
Red Rubycon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-20-2005, 07:42 PM   #42
SpeedJeep
Web Wheeler
 
SpeedJeep's Avatar
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: St. Charles, Missouri
Posts: 1,325
Voice matching in a nutshell:
Every speaker has a "tone" or a voice". This means that two different speakers will never sound the same. You wouldn't expect a silk dome tweeter to have the same "voice" as a metal dome tweeter. Make sense? It makes equalizing the system easier if everything is the same even if you're just using the bass and treble controls on the head unit. If you use different speakers you might find that turning down the treble makes the front speakers sound better, but makes the back ones sound muffled and therefore you can never get the system to sound the way you like it.

Capecod,
I agree with your definition of components. What I disagree with is the reason you chose to use them: Volume
Do you agree that a coaxial speaker is actually 2 separate components but the tweeter is mounted on the same axis (pole) as the mid, hence the word "co-axial"?
I just hope you're not confusing the word components with separates as most people do.
You can easily add an outboard 12 or 18db passive crossover to a coaxial speaker and make a great sounding speaker as long as it is "on axis" with the listener. Most car speakers are not on axis with the listener.
*The reason to run separate components is for imaging, not volume.

Most 5.25 mids will play up to 12-15k before they naturally start attenuate the higher frequencies. Most distortion comes from a speaker trying to play frequencies that are too low, not from playing frequencies that are too high. So why would you put a 3.5-5k low pass crossover on them effectively cutting the frequency response by 2/3rds if you want volume? You don't. You apply the crossover hoping to get a better (flatter) frequency response.
*The reason for a passive crossover is to attenuate (IE: make not as loud) so your theory does not work here.
Remember, this is an open air vehicle like an amphi-theatre, not a quiet-as-a-church Lexus.
High pass crossovers protect speakers from over excursion, distortion, and that annoying "popping" sound you spoke of.
Low pass crossovers help create a flatter frequency response.
__________________
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
SpeedJeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-21-2005, 03:46 PM   #43
MCanavan
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 2,425
Quote:
Originally Posted by baboyd
Voice matching in a nutshell:
Every speaker has a "tone" or a voice". This means that two different speakers will never sound the same. You wouldn't expect a silk dome tweeter to have the same "voice" as a metal dome tweeter. Make sense? It makes equalizing the system easier if everything is the same even if you're just using the bass and treble controls on the head unit. If you use different speakers you might find that turning down the treble makes the front speakers sound better, but makes the back ones sound muffled and therefore you can never get the system to sound the way you like it.

Capecod,
I agree with your definition of components. What I disagree with is the reason you chose to use them: Volume
Do you agree that a coaxial speaker is actually 2 separate components but the tweeter is mounted on the same axis (pole) as the mid, hence the word "co-axial"?
I just hope you're not confusing the word components with separates as most people do.
You can easily add an outboard 12 or 18db passive crossover to a coaxial speaker and make a great sounding speaker as long as it is "on axis" with the listener. Most car speakers are not on axis with the listener.
*The reason to run separate components is for imaging, not volume.

Most 5.25 mids will play up to 12-15k before they naturally start attenuate the higher frequencies. Most distortion comes from a speaker trying to play frequencies that are too low, not from playing frequencies that are too high. So why would you put a 3.5-5k low pass crossover on them effectively cutting the frequency response by 2/3rds if you want volume? You don't. You apply the crossover hoping to get a better (flatter) frequency response.
*The reason for a passive crossover is to attenuate (IE: make not as loud) so your theory does not work here.
Remember, this is an open air vehicle like an amphi-theatre, not a quiet-as-a-church Lexus.
High pass crossovers protect speakers from over excursion, distortion, and that annoying "popping" sound you spoke of.
Low pass crossovers help create a flatter frequency response.
Wow that was confusing.
MCanavan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-21-2005, 09:08 PM   #44
BlueJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by capecodtjeep
You say potato, I potato. You probably know more about it then I do. I guess Components are useless junk, whatever.
Components are not junk depending on the brand. When properly amped a component speaker is freaking awesome sounding. I learned this in my last vehicle after I bought 4-way 6x9's.
__________________
2000 TJ - Patriot Blue

Same stuff as most of ya got. =)
BlueJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-26-2005, 06:06 PM   #45
psl53
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Carbondale,Colorado
Posts: 128
The the genral discussion forum Upstate Chili post a great pattern to make your own brackets to go from 4x6 to 51/4" round. I just finished and it worked great. Here is the link http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/anyone-else-have-trouble-guy-148762/
Hope it helps
Out
Peter
__________________
99 Sahara 4.0 6 Cyl Auto White 4.5RE ATLAS II & TW shaft, BFG 33's, Jeeperman Rear bumper tire carrier, Rokmen Rockers, Warn M8000 Powertrax no-slip in front & Rear
psl53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.