The Wifes Jeep WJ "build" - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 107 Old 10-27-2010, 08:06 PM
freakinheep89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTJer View Post
I don't have the blend doors. Don't you worry bout that.
thats right its a laredo. lucky ****er. I spent 9 hours changing them in my moms LTD


TJ-
95 ZJ 5.2- D30/XJ shafts/D35 Yukon alloys,249, 2"BB, 30x9.5"Wildcat EXT,lots of motor mods, rancho shocks & stabilizer.

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How would i go about Stroking it?
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post #92 of 107 Old 10-27-2010, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
AustinCJer
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Hahahah, I specifically looked for a jeep without the blend door. The BD in my 99 Limited was broke when j lived in Michigan... My passenger was always freezing. Hahahahah
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post #93 of 107 Old 10-30-2010, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Mother ****er. I swore, when I had my 99 WJ and it crapped out on me, I would never buy another one.

Everytime the new one shifts hard between 1st and 2nd gear, I want to punch a baby! Would a tranny fluid and filter change help smooth the shifting? Im going to lubricate the slip yoke shaft per a write up about the "bump stop" issue. If those two things dont smooth it out Im going to be pissed. I test drove this Jeep 10 times and never felt any of the tranny issues... *&%&^$!!!!


Sorry, rant off... the Jeep is a good Jeep. Other than a rough idle and the hard shifting, its in good shape and runs well for the most part. Ive tried every trick to stop the shaking when idling. It idles around 500-600 RPMS, but vibrates like crazy. Any thoughts?
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post #94 of 107 Old 10-30-2010, 07:31 PM
freakinheep89
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tranny fluid and filter change might should help. wont know til you do it but its worth doing.

as for the idle around 5-600, you didnt mess with the IAC pintle length when you cleaned the TB did you?

TJ-
95 ZJ 5.2- D30/XJ shafts/D35 Yukon alloys,249, 2"BB, 30x9.5"Wildcat EXT,lots of motor mods, rancho shocks & stabilizer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slayercr23 View Post
How would i go about Stroking it?
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post #95 of 107 Old 10-31-2010, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
AustinCJer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakinheep89 View Post
tranny fluid and filter change might should help. wont know til you do it but its worth doing.

as for the idle around 5-600, you didnt mess with the IAC pintle length when you cleaned the TB did you?
Good point, it couldn't hurt. My pops is a dealer and says get a mopar filter... He says theyre touchy and you don't want an offbrand in there.

I didnt mess with the IAC length, so who knows. I ran some more Seafoam through it today and it's helped a little...

I have such a love/hate relationship with this Jeep. So remember I said that I saw a puddle of antifreeze under the Jeep... I think they must have put too much in and it just dripped out... But today I'm driving it and a low coolant message pops up... So I'm like "WTF?" so I get home and run a ton of tests and can't find any leaks... No milky oil, no water in the floor board, nothing... My reservoir was low, so I filled it... So who knows. I'll keep an eye on it.

And the latest issue I'm overreacting to is a weird hum/whine when I'm in reverse. But I can only hear it if I am back up with the door open an listening VERY carefully.

Eventually I'll have this thing to 100%... eventually. Hahahah
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post #96 of 107 Old 11-01-2010, 05:48 PM
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i have almost the same coolant leak. it wont leak a drop for months and then sometimes i'll go outside and see a puddle underneath and the resevoir empty, fill it up, wont leak again for a while. its coming from my radiator and im guessing theres a leak where the metal/plastic meet, but very weird. im on my 3rd radiator.

the hum sounds like the diff, i wouldnt worry too much about it til you start hearing it going forward, if you ever do. change diff fluid?

2000 White V8 WJ LSR-6in-35's-LA's-242HD-Warn SOLD and missed very badly
06 GTO - BC Coilovers, JBA Catless mids, Svede Intake
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post #97 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
AustinCJer
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Silly brake question. I getting a *womp womp womp* when getting on the brakes. So it may be time to change the pads and rotors... Pop off old rotors, remove old pads, replace, bleed brakes... is that right or am I missing a step? I have replaced pads, but never the rotors. Is there any more to it than that?
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post #98 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 09:20 AM
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No need to do any bleeding unless you get air in the system (ie: you disconnect a brake line or let your brake fluid get too low).

Different rotors have different break in procedures. For instance, some say to apply moderate brake pressure from 30mph to 10mph, 10 times in a row. Wait 30 minutes, then do hard brakes from 60 to 0 10 times in a row, then let sit for another 30 minutes. New rotors should come with break in procedures.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #99 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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No need to do any bleeding unless you get air in the system (ie: you disconnect a brake line or let your brake fluid get too low).

Different rotors have different break in procedures. For instance, some say to apply moderate brake pressure from 30mph to 10mph, 10 times in a row. Wait 30 minutes, then do hard brakes from 60 to 0 10 times in a row, then let sit for another 30 minutes. New rotors should come with break in procedures.
Good deal

I always thought that when you compressed the piston on the caliper, that you should bleed them afterwards... oh well.
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post #100 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 10:33 AM
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When you compress the piston(s), just be mindful of high full the brake fluid reservoir is. It'll fill up as you compress it. Try and prevent it from overflowing. When they recompress (hitting the brakes a few times) ensure it doesn't get too low or you might suck in air. That would be the only time bleeding would be necessary.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #101 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep View Post
When you compress the piston(s), just be mindful of high full the brake fluid reservoir is. It'll fill up as you compress it. Try and prevent it from overflowing. When they recompress (hitting the brakes a few times) ensure it doesn't get too low or you might suck in air. That would be the only time bleeding would be necessary.
Awesome, Thanks!
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post #102 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 11:25 AM
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Awesome, Thanks!
Brake Fluid Straight Eats Paint Keep that in mind. Strips it right off.

Sold4" Hybrid lift TeraFlex coils IRO Adjustable LA's Jks tracbar 1.25spidertrax spacers 265/75/16 Dura-tracs
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The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
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post #103 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Brake Fluid Straight Eats Paint Keep that in mind. Strips it right off.
Yeah, ive heard that.
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post #104 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by xJoshxx View Post
Brake Fluid Straight Eats Paint Keep that in mind. Strips it right off.
I had heard of that as well so I asked my friend that manages a body shop. He said modern paints that have fully cured aren't nearly as susceptible to that as old paints. ie: New paints can take it, just clean it off afterwards.

Now someone go test it and let me know how it works

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #105 of 107 Old 11-02-2010, 01:34 PM
freakinheep89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep View Post
I had heard of that as well so I asked my friend that manages a body shop. He said modern paints that have fully cured aren't nearly as susceptible to that as old paints. ie: New paints can take it, just clean it off afterwards.

Now someone go test it and let me know how it works
theres a nice stripe missing from my 95 after a little bead ran down, i washed immediately and it still came off.

TJ-
95 ZJ 5.2- D30/XJ shafts/D35 Yukon alloys,249, 2"BB, 30x9.5"Wildcat EXT,lots of motor mods, rancho shocks & stabilizer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slayercr23 View Post
How would i go about Stroking it?
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