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Old 02-08-2010, 07:27 PM   #76
CDubya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAC1502 View Post
My caster is at 2 degrees I wonder if i will get drive line vibs? i am not planning on dropping my tcase. Angles look good comparative to my TJ.
I would definitely recommend dropping ur t-case. regardless, ur front drive shaft will eventually need to be replaced. I have a 4-in lift on my selec trac WJ, and one month after lifting, the joint at the t case is gone. And thats just using 4 whl occasionally. The front drive shafts are not designed to be used at the angle 4-in of lift makes them. With ur AWD, id assume urs will wear much faster.

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Old 02-09-2010, 05:22 AM   #77
JAC1502
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I did end up dropping the t-case. i also reset my caster to about 6 degrees. I expect to tune a little more when my tires come but right now i am still very impressed with how well it handles. Only if my sliders would get here!

when I dropped my t-caase I really got to see how little protection the drive line has. I don't plan on going anywhere really rough offroad but stock I managed to snap my front drive shaft and didn't my trans pans on a big work i didn't see coming.

Any decently priced skids out there? Recommendations would be nice! Do most require welded? I will search on here but figured i would ask while I am typing!
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:52 PM   #78
danories
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Its my first lift kit what else would Yall recommend me to purchase if I bought the Rough Country lift? I have the cv style front driveshaft. Its also got the Quadradrive.
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:09 PM   #79
JTM1
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Just an FYI/Correct for Cdubya/JAC, a transfercase drop corrects your Rear drive shaft angle and make the Front driveshaft angle worse.
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:27 PM   #80
CDubya
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Originally Posted by JTM1 View Post
Just an FYI/Correct for Cdubya/JAC, a transfercase drop corrects your Rear drive shaft angle and make the Front driveshaft angle worse.
worse than stock, yes, but better than not utilizing the t-case drop. w/o it, thats just even more added stress on the already crappy stock t-case joint. either way u slice it or dice it, lifting the WJ is gonna f*** up ur stock front driveshaft...eventually
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:14 AM   #81
JAC1502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTM1 View Post
Just an FYI/Correct for Cdubya/JAC, a transfercase drop corrects your Rear drive shaft angle and make the Front driveshaft angle worse.
I disagree, it lowers the angles of both. The vibration I had was from the front not the rear and the t-case drop alleviated that. How would lower the drive shaft angle hurt the front???
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:24 AM   #82
perfectcircle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAC1502 View Post
I disagree, it lowers the angles of both. The vibration I had was from the front not the rear and the t-case drop alleviated that. How would lower the drive shaft angle hurt the front???
Because all it does is tilt the rear of the transfercase downwards. The transfercase doesn't have a joint in the middle of the case obviously. Therefore when one side is tilted down, the other side is affected. I can picture it also stressing the motor mounts as it's also tilting the motor downwards.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JAC1502 View Post
When you completely remove your front axle you have to remove front brake lines unless you pull the axle apart prior to removal. The axle shop did the tear down and reassembly. The rear you can leave.

Must be some pretty cheap shocks if being fully collapsed ruins them, they are designed to be in that position. I suppose your rig has chains to limit the suspension travel in the downward direction, if not better add them its the same principle. when your sway bar is disconnected what do you think stops your axles from dropping down?

Regardless it is my choice, so no need to debate how I build my Jeep
You could have taken the knuckles off, something I wish that I had done. Save me the trouble of having the abs bled.

If one shock is fully compressed, another is fully extended. Shocks should never be used to stop travel. The answer to your question is bump stomps. That's what they were designed to do, shocks were not. We're simply informing you of the proper use for your suspension parts, absorb the information and learn from it, don't argue with us.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:53 PM   #83
BigMikeWJ
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installed t-case drop in my WJ...absolutely no problems.
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:01 PM   #84
dfloyd
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Originally Posted by perfectcircle View Post

If one shock is fully compressed, another is fully extended. Shocks should never be used to stop travel. The answer to your question is bump stomps. That's what they were designed to do, shocks were not. We're simply informing you of the proper use for your suspension parts, absorb the information and learn from it, don't argue with us.

Just a quick question... then why do your DT8000 shocks have built in bump stops? I know it's a "bump stop" but it's still the shock it's self stopping travel. Either way it's his choice and his jeep built his way and isn't that what it's all about. Looks good so far. Wanna see those tires on there...
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:31 PM   #85
perfectcircle
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Originally Posted by dfloyd View Post
Just a quick question... then why do your DT8000 shocks have built in bump stops? I know it's a "bump stop" but it's still the shock it's self stopping travel. Either way it's his choice and his jeep built his way and isn't that what it's all about. Looks good so far. Wanna see those tires on there...
Asking the wrong person. I only got these shocks cuz the seller had purchased them But I will say that these shocks must have been designed for the purpose of limiting travel..While other shocks are not. We were just trying to help thats all
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:04 PM   #86
JAC1502
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Since you don’t even know the specs of your own shocks I highly doubt you know the specs of the majority of heavy duty shocks that come with most kits. That being said: maybe you should do a little more research before you, "help others". Do you even know the specs of the shocks I am using? I don't, but I don't care if they have the ability to act as bumpstops or not because I don't feel I need bump stops! Good catch 1999WJ.

There is more benefit to a transfer drop than just lowering the degree of the drive train plane. Depending on the pivot point of the assembly you can see improvement in the front drive shaft angle. For my 4.0 that was the case as my drive shaft angle was decreased, in V8 WJs I have no clue. This is a fact not an opinion. If you want to waste the time disputing go take some measurements and get out a geometry book if needed and see for yourself.

As for my progress I am waiting on deliveries. Had two packages come today but they weren’t left by the UPS driver. I know one is not jeep related but I hope the other is my rock sliders. I plan on using a rhino lining type coating as they come bare metal. Debating on if I should hit the weld with some rust encapsulator so I don’t have any rust come through. I hope the rhino lining stuff has enough rust inhibitors in it but wouldn’t hurt.

Anyone ever rhino line bar metal and have rust come through?
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:57 PM   #87
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what sort of "specs" are you demanding of him? a bumpstop is a bumpstop, it works or it doesnt... if i bought a jeep with shocks on it im probably not going to take them out and study them, im gonna know how they ride though thats for sure! lol

Transfer case drop can help sometimes, as it does lower the overall position of the t-case in our application. It DOES set the front t-case yoke angle further away from the diff pinion, this may get rid of vibes in some apps but is really not ideal, esp. w/ alot of flexing. Much better off using it as a temporary solution for higher quality driveshafts. Keep in mind the loss of clearance it creates, the crossmember is already a low point on jeeps, this just moves it closer to the ground.
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:53 PM   #88
JAC1502
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Originally Posted by patrick983 View Post
what sort of "specs" are you demanding of him? a bumpstop is a bumpstop, it works or it doesnt... if i bought a jeep with shocks on it im probably not going to take them out and study them, im gonna know how they ride though thats for sure! lol

Transfer case drop can help sometimes, as it does lower the overall position of the t-case in our application. It DOES set the front t-case yoke angle further away from the diff pinion, this may get rid of vibes in some apps but is really not ideal, esp. w/ alot of flexing. Much better off using it as a temporary solution for higher quality driveshafts. Keep in mind the loss of clearance it creates, the crossmember is already a low point on jeeps, this just moves it closer to the ground.
“Demanding”, absolutely not; you must have failed to read the entire thread. I wanted to end his debate about my choice to not install the bump stops that came with my lift kit. I figured highlighting the fact his shocks had built in bump stops (something he claimed shocks don’t do), someone else pointed would assist. All I want to do is show off what I have been working hard and share the experience mistakes or triumphs.

As for the transfer case I agree it does slightly tilt the transfer case yolk or whatever you want to call the CV style attachment. But I would prefer more bind there than the U joint at my axle and better caster. I was getting pretty bad vibs with 6 degrees of caster until I dropped the case. Don’t you agree? I do hate how low the case sits and if I ever start to wheel it I will address that but for now I’ll deal. Hopefully the sliders will hide how low it appears to those of use who notice those things.

Since we are on the subject what are some good options for a t-case tuck without any vibs?

A slip yoke eliminator did the trick on my TJ, but that was rear shaft vibs not sure what to do about front. Maybe CV at both ends?

Come on guys; let me have my opinion and if I disagree once just let me learn my lesson instead of beating (in my eyes) a dead horse. If I screw up and have issues I will post about it on this thread. I have a very good mechanical back ground and enjoy deviating from the norm and tend to be successful with my endeavors
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:07 PM   #89
JAC1502
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Scratch the driveshaft question seems a double cardon is the ticket. Can I eliminate the tcase drop if I have one made or buy one?
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:50 PM   #90
patrick983
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did not read entire thread (apologies). if it helps i have stock bumpstops at 4in too and i dont run a rear swaybar at all. No issues but my tires are not huge. TO answer ur question, yes definitely. A quality front DS is a well spent investment and u could get rid of the t-case drop and have ur clearance back.
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