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Old 02-03-2010, 05:04 AM   #61
JAC1502
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I dont plan on doing any extreme wheeling plus I have a lot of clearance as is. still waiting on my wheels and tires though but we will see. I kept the extensions just in case I do decide later on to go through some rougher trials.

On a side not I disconnected both front caliper but not rears and was only required to bleed the brakes manually with no ABS pump issues. I did however make a home made bleeder to start using a large sealed container (it was an old jug that protein powder came in and two long pieces of clear tubing and my shop vac to suck out a lot of fluid first. I didn't even need to bleed the rears.

I wish my sliders would get here!

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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:31 AM   #62
JAC1502
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I never extended the bump stops in my TJ either. Here is a pi with the rear compressed. I didn't have the front sways disconnected though, but my shocks stop travel first. I hope the same for the WJ
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:39 AM   #63
GraKee99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAC1502 View Post
I never extended the bump stops in my TJ either. Here is a pi with the rear compressed. I didn't have the front sways disconnected though, but my shocks stop travel first. I hope the same for the WJ
Good way to ruin shocks.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:26 AM   #64
BigMikeWJ
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why did you disconnect your brake lines? that is just more work.

2nd of all, install the bump stops. I mean what on earth do you have to lose by bolting in one bolt on each side?
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:27 AM   #65
GraKee99
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Originally Posted by BigMikeWJ View Post
why did you disconnect your brake lines? that is just more work.

2nd of all, install the bump stops. I mean what on earth do you have to lose by bolting in one bolt on each side?
Where did he say he is disconnecting his brake lines? If he does that, you can't stop.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:56 PM   #66
BigMikeWJ
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Originally Posted by GraKee99 View Post
Where did he say he is disconnecting his brake lines? If he does that, you can't stop.
haha no ****. He said he has to bleed his brakes. Im assuming he disconnected his brakelines during the installation...
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:42 AM   #67
JAC1502
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When you completely remove your front axle you have to remove front brake lines unless you pull the axle apart prior to removal. The axle shop did the tear down and reassembly. The rear you can leave.

Must be some pretty cheap shocks if being fully collapsed ruins them, they are designed to be in that position. I suppose your rig has chains to limit the suspension travel in the downward direction, if not better add them its the same principle. when your sway bar is disconnected what do you think stops your axles from dropping down?

Regardless it is my choice, so no need to debate how I build my Jeep
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:16 AM   #68
BigMikeWJ
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i didnt know you removed your front axle. That makes sense. As far as shocks being fully compressed...it doesnt ruin them. However, overtime it will ruin them. They are not designed to be in that position. They are designed to provide an opposite force against the axle while driving. Not to be fully extended or compressed.
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Old 02-06-2010, 02:26 PM   #69
JAC1502
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I agree that being said, the chances of them being fully compressed because of no bump stops are equal to the amount of times they will be fully extended because of suspension flex. So my case balances out and the bump stop extensions are useless to me.

here are some pics of it cleaned up and back together. Waiting on my wheels and sliders! I also tinted my front windows with precut window tint pieces from ebay for 9 bucks. I pulled the door panels but you don't have to I just wanted to make sure it turned out looking professional. I managed to have no winkles or bubbles.



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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-06-2010, 02:40 PM   #70
BigMikeWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAC1502 View Post
I agree that being said, the chances of them being fully compressed because of no bump stops are equal to the amount of times they will be fully extended because of suspension flex. So my case balances out and the bump stop extensions are useless to me.
that "equation" makes zero sense....please expand
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Old 02-06-2010, 02:55 PM   #71
JAC1502
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I had not planned on building a hard core off road rig. I don't plan on seeing anything that will cause full flex extension or compression. So, if one side is compressed to the point of needing the bump stop extension the other side of the axle will be fully extended in most cases regardless of the opposing sides bump stop. So I don't feel that full compression of a shock is any different than full extension and since my lift with sway bars disconnected could allow for fairly complete extension why only worry about full compression. As mentioned previously do you see any WJs with chains or other methods to stop full extension? Normally the shocks are the limiting factor.

Do you think shocks in most lifts don't get the burden of both? They are designed to dampen; position is not relevant. They are sealed so the the force inside is within tolerance either way and the only true damage that should occur is from impact from a fast extension or compression, but the shock itself is designed to hinder / dampen that fast movement.
How do you feel a fully compressed shock will cause shorter service life?
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:13 PM   #72
BigMikeWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAC1502 View Post
I had not planned on building a hard core off road rig. I don't plan on seeing anything that will cause full flex extension or compression. So, if one side is compressed to the point of needing the bump stop extension the other side of the axle will be fully extended in most cases regardless of the opposing sides bump stop. So I don't feel that full compression of a shock is any different than full extension and since my lift with sway bars disconnected could allow for fairly complete extension why only worry about full compression. As mentioned previously do you see any WJs with chains or other methods to stop full extension? Normally the shocks are the limiting factor.

Do you think shocks in most lifts don't get the burden of both? They are designed to dampen; position is not relevant. They are sealed so the the force inside is within tolerance either way and the only true damage that should occur is from impact from a fast extension or compression, but the shock itself is designed to hinder / dampen that fast movement.
How do you feel a fully compressed shock will cause shorter service life?
First off, I forget, are we only talking about the rear?

Other than everything else stated above, I am still trying to figure out why you wouldnt install something that takes ~3 minutes, that could quite possibly, aide the longevity of your shocks/other suspension components (even if the probability of the aforementioned compression/extension situation is low), and on the contrary have absolutely no negative effect what-so-ever. It just doesnt make sense. If it were not needed (even <.01% of the time) it wouldnt be included in the kit. OBVIOUSLY, it has it's reason (as mentioned above , which is why it was intended for use, and not disuse!

As mentioned prior, a compressed shock over time, and repitition could decrease life expectancy. Havent you ever rode in a 10+ yr old jeep, with factory shocks, that bottom out even over the slightest bump/pothole? Time and repition of everyday driving have slowly decreased the life of the shocks. It seems pretty obvious to me, and i hope everyone else, that anything having to do with suspension: shocks, springs, etc., will not last forever (at its best "operating" potential (i.e. ride height, compression ration, etc.). However, if you have a shock that has been compressed/extended to its limits occasionally over 5yrs vs. a shock that sat on a vehicle that was parked in a driveway for 5 years, you will see a substanial difference in wear.
This seems pretty apparent with anything...
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:59 PM   #73
JAC1502
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I installed no bump stop extension, front or rear. My reasons are fairly simple:

1. I do not feel they are needed for my application.
2. The use of extensions can require a spring compress to install or remove the spring.
3. I do not have faith in the rears extended plastic puck style design, even if I did feel I would need them.
4. I personally don’t even like the visual appearance of them.
None of this is debatable; this is my opinion / logic and my WJ.

Although I am not typically one to debate on the Internet I find it very amusing how concerned you are with the fact I choose not to install my bump stop extensions I also feel the need to inform you or anyone else that chooses to read this of the actual function of a shock absorber.

In no way will my lack of bump stops decrease the longevity of my shocks, period. I do not plan on seeing full extension or compression. The strange part of your disagreement is even if I did it still would not change the shocks service life. They are designed to operate fully extended and fully closed, that is why shocks are sold in different lengths. They are meant to dampen force regardless of there position. As long as the shock is within its impact force specs movement will be of no concern.

I understand that if I was in a baja truck and managed to hit a large obstruction then another in a matter or mili seconds I could perhaps damage the internal valves or maybe even rupture the exterior of a shock. But I guess I would need to be in a baja truck then and not a street driven WJ. MI pot holes are bad but not that bad.

As for the the shocks sitting unused, they have in better shape because of lack of movement. With any mechanical device, unless we consider corrosion lack of friction (movement) will of course allow a longer service life.

So how many shocks have you ever purchased that are not in the fully closed position? Zero. So are all the new shocks in the world wasting away fully compressed in their boxes in all the shock warehouses all over? Maybe we should begin a crusade to save them!

I have been an engineer in the automotive sector for most of my life and although not directly related to this matter my logic is easily justifiable no matter how subjective you want to make it…
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:25 PM   #74
danories
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Sorry to interupt yall but I am curious about how this lift performs down the road? I am also thinking about lifting my 99 GC Limited and was looking at this same lift. I am wondering if it has everything I would need?
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:14 PM   #75
JAC1502
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It seems to handle great. I have not put many miles on it thus far but with adjustable LCAs and track bar you can't beat the price. The only thing I added was a steering stabilizer.
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#1 1997 Jeep TJ HEMI, 6" lift springs, 2" body lift, semi long control arms front and rear, Adjustable front and rear track bars, Slip-Yoke elim, 8.8 locked, 10,000 winch, Tube bumpers and rocker guards, Light bar, Custom swing away tire carrier, CAI, Electric cooling fans, Custom exhaust, Mickey T 35*14.5 on 15*12 wheels #2 2004 Grand Cherokee SE 4.0L, header, full exhaust, CAI, Bored TB, Clarion 10, RC X series 4" + 1, teflon wheels 17s, roof rack, winch, etc.
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