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Tj's 01 WJ Build thread

70K views 388 replies 35 participants last post by  Bama_WJ 
#1 ·
Well figured I would start my own build thread, seeing as how I have gotten so many ideas of others thread, I figure maybe I can do the same for someone else so here it goes.

Cant find any pictures of when i bought it new, so ill just start with the oldest pics! Right after purchasing it I went to a local off road shop and ordered a 2in bb and some US Wheel D windows
 

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#292 ·
Thanks bro. How's mama doin? Everything going well? Next night I have some free time im gonna be callin you. Been too long since we caught up. Same goes for me and Cricks.

I do have little accents throughout the jeep painted red. Diff covers, and winch for now. I plan on doing a few more though, it was just the black was an easier color, plus it hides things well and looks clean.
 
#295 ·
And the trophy for the worlds longest clayton long arm install goes too...... TJSWJ!

And Im still not finished. Rear arms are all in. Still have to burn off all the original brackets, then clean and paint those spots. Then go put it on the alignment rack to make any final adjustments and tighten everything down. Then the suspension is condidered done!

Only thing Im concerned about is the front brake lines, even at normal droop on the rack (sway bar connected) the look WAY too tight! I think im going to order a set of braided stainless ones from Iron Rock, unless anyone else has a better idea.....?

Edit: looks like Clayton offers braided lines as well. I'll be ordering those once I get an email back from them confirming compatibility. I like the fact that they are Clayton, but more cause they are red.

Pics!



(yes, while taking the last pic I realized that I accidently ran the e-brake cables and abs sensors under the upper arms. They belong on top.)
 
#296 ·
Got all the old brackets cut off and cleaned up (gotta love plasma cutters!). Started working on the front diff. Its getting new inner axle seals (been leaking a while), new pinion bearings, and since im going to be in there I decided to put a spartan locker in it. Locker was supposed to be here today, but for some reason its held up in MN :dunno:

Also picked up the 1/2" 6061 aluminum for the belly skid

 
#299 ·
A friend of mine runs a fab shop and needed some parts from me for his jeep so we did some trading on the aluminum. But, he originally quoted me 250 for a 40x40 section of 1/2 thick 6061. I'm not really sure which way he figured the price. Although I will say that the piece I got is a he'll of a lot heavier than I expected from aluminum. Once I get the skid fanned up I'm going to weigh it to compare against IRO's t-case skid that I had.
 
#301 ·
Mine will be similar to yours. The 231 seems to be clocked a little higher up than the 242 it replaced. That will allow me to make the skid so that it is almost flush with the bottom of the Clayton control arm mounts, completely flat, and only slightly higher then the crossmember. I went with 1/2" aluminum because it's thick enough to hold the weight of the jeep without bending and needing additional re-enforcement (which allows me to tuck it up higher).
 
#303 ·
The great thing is that no bends will need to be made and only minor welding. I'm going to cut 2 sections the length and width (roughly 38"L x 2"W) of the clayton sub frame connectors. Those will be welded onto the main skid (roughly 38x40") to give me a 1/2 drop. That give me just a hair under 1/2" of clearence between the plate and t case, but still higher than the lowest point (trans crossmember). I'll then drill holes in the plate to counter sink the mounting bolts, and drill and tap (might have to weld in nuts) the sub frame connectors to mount it.

It plays out easy in my head, we will see what kinks I run into.
 
#304 ·
Got the pinion bearings done. Now im just waiting on the locker to show up, should be here friday or saturday. After that the front diff can go back together.


Made the template for the belly skid.

It will be 1/2 lower than the cardboard. 1"total from frame connector to bottom of skid.


Plenty of clearence for the driveshaft


Laid out on the aluminum


Pic of my dimensions


Im hoping to get it cut tomorrow, if not it will be friday night. Stay tuned.
 
#305 ·
Well I was really hoping that my plasma would be able to cut this 1/2" aluminum plate.... NOPE! So after some time with the sawzall and grinder, I got it cut! Plan is to weld it up and drill it for mounting holes on monday. Hopefully get it finished on tuesday. So far Im happy with it. I havent weighed it yet, but it feels just as heavy as the IRO t-case skid its replacing.



What it will look like once welded up.



Also got my Lockright, now im just waiting on new ring gear bolts.



Have a wheeling trip on the 8th, I have to be there! The tank tuck and hydro assist is going to have to wait untill winter I think.
 
#306 ·
So I'm trying to figure out the best way to attatch the skid to the frame connectors. The connectors themselves are too thin do good thread engagement, so that leaves me with 2 options.

1: 3/8 rivet nuts. I really like how almost flush they sit once installed. I don't like the fact that after buying the tool they cost about 140 bucks to install. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80452/10002/-1 then again at least I'll have the tool for any future needs.

2: 3/8 or 1/2 ruffstuff threaded weld washers. Cheap, but require a little more work to install. My problem with them is they don't sit no where near flush. That means I would have to notch the skid to get it to hug the frame rails. If that's the case I may not be able to counter sink the bolt heads because the material would be getting thin. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FIXTHR.html

What are your guys thought?
 
#307 ·
Your skid design looks awesome. I dont have any experience with either product but IMO The ruff stuff bolts look stronger, if you could get away with only recessing both ends 1/4 in or less. May have to take a liitle off the tops of the bolt heads. Im sure either one would work. Great job so far.
 
#309 ·
Thanks, I appreciate it.

Cut a hole in the frame the size of the weld washers (hole saw), hold them up with a long bolt so they are flush, tack and weld in place. :dunno:
I thought about doing that too. But, I fear I'll weaken the sub frame connectors by drilling so many large holes in them (even though they would be filled with the washers) I 'll have 4-6 bolts per side.

I decided on the rivet nuts for a few reasons.
1- ease of installation
2-close to flush mount
3- if I ever strip a thread, I can simply drill out the rivet and install new threads.
4- if needed I could tack the rivet nuts to hold them in place.

The weld washers do look a lot stronger. But with 4-6 3/8 bolts per side (most likely 6) I'm not too worried about them not being strong enough.

I appreciate the input
 
#311 ·
Skid is all welded up, just have to drill all the bolt holes. Forgot to take pics though.

Got a killer deal on sand blasting my axles. Sand blast, weld tubes to center section, clean up spots from were I cut the brackets, and putting them in primer, 130 bucks! Even though I wasn't at the point of needing it done, I didnt want to miss out on the deal so I stripped them down real quick.

Also had my throttle body bored out so it no longer has the choke below the throttle plate. It's now 60mm straight through.
 
#314 ·
Thanks man. Yeah it was a hell of a deal, thats why I jumped on it. The axle build is still about a year out, but I couldn't pass this deal up.

Still no pics, but i got the skid fitted how I wanted, but unfortunately it flexes too much for my liking. I'm going to weld in a reinforcing bar about 2 inches reward of the t case for extra strength.
 
#316 ·
Got a lot done today.

Took my coils out to weld nuts into the coil post, that way I could easily attach some ballistic coil retainers I ordered. I got a small surprise which needed attention, the post were completely rotted! I was able to build some new post out of some 3" exhaust tube. They dont support any weigh, nor are they structural, so the pipe should be fine.

Driver side (they were both this bad)


Repairs



Got the skid fully welded and all the pilot holes drilled. Adding the brace helped a ton! I can now lift the jeep by the skid with very little deflection. Now I just have to drill and riv nut the frame.


Also weighed it. It's a little heavier then I expected, but I'm still plenty happy with it.


The IRO skid was 42 pounds. This skid is 25 pounds heavier, but offers 3 times the protection, and tucks up higher. Overall I'm happy with it.

Also started replacing the front upper control arm bushings, but I forgot I let my buddy borrow my press. I should have it back monday, hopefully have the wj finished by next weekend.
 
#317 ·
Well, everything is slowly coming down to a finished product. Before I finish up though I have one more issue to address. Limit straps. Who is using them? What are you running?

The suspension droops enough on the lift that I can remove the front and rear springs with a quick pull. (thus the ballistic coil retainers im installing). The only thing limiting suspension travel is my bilsteins. Id rather not rip a shock apart in the middle of nowhere, so Im going to install limit straps. Im leaning towards poly performance limit straps and clevis mounts.

Straps http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...apped-Ultra-Strength-Limit-Strap-p-30918.html

Clevis mounts http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Trail-Gear-Limiting-Strap-Clevis-Kit-p-31177.html

I REALLY like the idea of the clevis mounts! Lets face it, nothing for our jeeps is once size fits all, the ability to add or remove 4" of limit is very nice. Its especially nice for the fact that in the next few months my suspension will be changing once again with the new axles, springs, and shocks.

Aside from them requiring a little more work to install, I really dont see a down side to them. From building my jeep ive realized that adjustability is everything, especially when your as OCD as I am when it comes to my jeep and how it performs.

Thoughts....?
 
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