Tj's 01 WJ Build thread - Page 21 - JeepForum.com

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post #301 of 389 Old 08-20-2013, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
TJSWJ
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Mine will be similar to yours. The 231 seems to be clocked a little higher up than the 242 it replaced. That will allow me to make the skid so that it is almost flush with the bottom of the Clayton control arm mounts, completely flat, and only slightly higher then the crossmember. I went with 1/2" aluminum because it's thick enough to hold the weight of the jeep without bending and needing additional re-enforcement (which allows me to tuck it up higher).

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post #302 of 389 Old 08-20-2013, 11:33 PM
CRJEeP_wj
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Im interested to see the weight also. And how it turns out, are you gonna cut and weld or make bends? I need to make a skid plate too, i really like the aluminum idea.

02 grand cherokee, hp60 14b, 42s. Stazwork, triangulated 4-link, rear leafs, homemade bumpers and sliders. build thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...build-1505917/
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post #303 of 389 Old 08-20-2013, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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The great thing is that no bends will need to be made and only minor welding. I'm going to cut 2 sections the length and width (roughly 38"L x 2"W) of the clayton sub frame connectors. Those will be welded onto the main skid (roughly 38x40") to give me a 1/2 drop. That give me just a hair under 1/2" of clearence between the plate and t case, but still higher than the lowest point (trans crossmember). I'll then drill holes in the plate to counter sink the mounting bolts, and drill and tap (might have to weld in nuts) the sub frame connectors to mount it.

It plays out easy in my head, we will see what kinks I run into.
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post #304 of 389 Old 08-21-2013, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Got the pinion bearings done. Now im just waiting on the locker to show up, should be here friday or saturday. After that the front diff can go back together.


Made the template for the belly skid.

It will be 1/2 lower than the cardboard. 1"total from frame connector to bottom of skid.


Plenty of clearence for the driveshaft


Laid out on the aluminum


Pic of my dimensions


Im hoping to get it cut tomorrow, if not it will be friday night. Stay tuned.
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post #305 of 389 Old 08-24-2013, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well I was really hoping that my plasma would be able to cut this 1/2" aluminum plate.... NOPE! So after some time with the sawzall and grinder, I got it cut! Plan is to weld it up and drill it for mounting holes on monday. Hopefully get it finished on tuesday. So far Im happy with it. I havent weighed it yet, but it feels just as heavy as the IRO t-case skid its replacing.



What it will look like once welded up.



Also got my Lockright, now im just waiting on new ring gear bolts.



Have a wheeling trip on the 8th, I have to be there! The tank tuck and hydro assist is going to have to wait untill winter I think.
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post #306 of 389 Old 08-25-2013, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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So I'm trying to figure out the best way to attatch the skid to the frame connectors. The connectors themselves are too thin do good thread engagement, so that leaves me with 2 options.

1: 3/8 rivet nuts. I really like how almost flush they sit once installed. I don't like the fact that after buying the tool they cost about 140 bucks to install. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...80452/10002/-1 then again at least I'll have the tool for any future needs.

2: 3/8 or 1/2 ruffstuff threaded weld washers. Cheap, but require a little more work to install. My problem with them is they don't sit no where near flush. That means I would have to notch the skid to get it to hug the frame rails. If that's the case I may not be able to counter sink the bolt heads because the material would be getting thin. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FIXTHR.html

What are your guys thought?
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post #307 of 389 Old 08-25-2013, 11:38 AM
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Your skid design looks awesome. I dont have any experience with either product but IMO The ruff stuff bolts look stronger, if you could get away with only recessing both ends 1/4 in or less. May have to take a liitle off the tops of the bolt heads. Im sure either one would work. Great job so far.

02 grand cherokee, hp60 14b, 42s. Stazwork, triangulated 4-link, rear leafs, homemade bumpers and sliders. build thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...build-1505917/
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post #308 of 389 Old 08-25-2013, 06:14 PM
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Cut a hole in the frame the size of the weld washers (hole saw), hold them up with a long bolt so they are flush, tack and weld in place.

Brian

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post #309 of 389 Old 08-25-2013, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRJEeP_wj View Post
Your skid design looks awesome. I dont have any experience with either product but IMO The ruff stuff bolts look stronger, if you could get away with only recessing both ends 1/4 in or less. May have to take a liitle off the tops of the bolt heads. Im sure either one would work. Great job so far.
Thanks, I appreciate it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GraKee99 View Post
Cut a hole in the frame the size of the weld washers (hole saw), hold them up with a long bolt so they are flush, tack and weld in place.
I thought about doing that too. But, I fear I'll weaken the sub frame connectors by drilling so many large holes in them (even though they would be filled with the washers) I 'll have 4-6 bolts per side.

I decided on the rivet nuts for a few reasons.
1- ease of installation
2-close to flush mount
3- if I ever strip a thread, I can simply drill out the rivet and install new threads.
4- if needed I could tack the rivet nuts to hold them in place.

The weld washers do look a lot stronger. But with 4-6 3/8 bolts per side (most likely 6) I'm not too worried about them not being strong enough.

I appreciate the input
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post #310 of 389 Old 08-27-2013, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Got the locker installed in the carrier on my lunch break today.



Also, fedex dropped off the riv nut kit I bought from jegs.




Everything should go together this weekend. That gives me the rest of the week to get it on the road, iron out the kinks, and go wheeling on the 8th.
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post #311 of 389 Old 09-06-2013, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Skid is all welded up, just have to drill all the bolt holes. Forgot to take pics though.

Got a killer deal on sand blasting my axles. Sand blast, weld tubes to center section, clean up spots from were I cut the brackets, and putting them in primer, 130 bucks! Even though I wasn't at the point of needing it done, I didnt want to miss out on the deal so I stripped them down real quick.

Also had my throttle body bored out so it no longer has the choke below the throttle plate. It's now 60mm straight through.
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post #312 of 389 Old 09-07-2013, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned, blasted, cleaned, welded, and painted. Waiting for me to pick up.

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post #313 of 389 Old 09-08-2013, 12:59 PM
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Wish I could get a deal like that. Mine need a cleaning that only a blaster could give and the tubes welded. They look good though man.

Daniel
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post #314 of 389 Old 09-08-2013, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks man. Yeah it was a hell of a deal, thats why I jumped on it. The axle build is still about a year out, but I couldn't pass this deal up.

Still no pics, but i got the skid fitted how I wanted, but unfortunately it flexes too much for my liking. I'm going to weld in a reinforcing bar about 2 inches reward of the t case for extra strength.
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post #315 of 389 Old 09-11-2013, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Getting ready to weld the cross brace in.


Got the axles back as well, now they need a thorough cleaning before they get set aside for awhile.

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