The88thpianoman's life lessons and budget build thread - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 39 Old 01-28-2009, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tampa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EisBlade View Post
Major kudos! Thanks for taking the time to write this all up and compliment it all with pictures as well. A great resource for others in the future, for sure. Keep the posts coming!
Thanks for the kind words. Light bar, transmission cooler, and other cheap mods coming soon!

Quote:
Originally Posted by spife7980 View Post
nice muffler

any story behind this exhaust system


The Daniel Hays custom edition super 40 is still sitting on my back porch. That one is 2.25". After that whole debacle, I decided to do the full 2.5" exhaust and just ponied up for a new muffler like I should have to begin with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tennesseewj View Post
Good move swapping from the aftermarket hitch to the Mopar one. Looks much better.
When I originally purchased the first hitch, I thought that's what I was getting. I actually ebayed the rear bumper at the same time. When everything arrived, the hitch was what you saw there, and the bumper was light gray instead of dark. So I just used the hitch, and let the bumper sit in my garage until I ended up with the parts Jeep, swapped hitches, and kryloned the bumper. Few weeks later I kryloned everything else to match. But I agree, the hitch hanging below the bumper is a terrible eyesore. But now I've got the whole factory tow package (except for the darned 3.55 gears).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoey40 View Post
The exhaust sounds great, nice build thread too!
Thanks! I'm hoping the exhaust tone will get a little bit deeper after I replace the restrictive (and also failing) precats to the magnaflow cats. I also really want to put in Doug Thorley headers, but just don't have that kind of cash to drop on it right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YHC2000WJ View Post
Good idea on the 4.7 tail pipe. I had one of those "well duh, why didn't I think of that?!" moments.

If you don't mind saying, how much did it cost you and where did you get it from?
I pulled mine off an entire parts WJ that I had purchased. It was really convenient that it included some extra 2.5" pipe, since the guy who had it previously had replaced the muffler with a straight pipe. That said, I can't imagine any junkyard charging all that much for a stock piece of pipe.

Now, I'm no exhaust expert (that would be Kolak), but from just looking at the differences in the exhaust pipes, my opinion is this: The stock 2.25" pipe on the 4.0 is god awful. Like absolutely freaking horrible. The bends look like Jeep started with a straight pipe and hired a drunk guy with a hammer to make it fit. Already pretty tiny, it has to get cut down to less than 2" in some places, gauging by looking at it. The stock 4.7 pipe, on the other hand, is a whole world of better. The bends are far more graceful, and it maintains a much, much more steady shape and size the whole way down. That said, I don't doubt that Kolak's or even IRO's more precisely engineered and mandrel bent pipes would show better flow numbers. In fact, if I'd had the cash to drop, I would have gone ahead with Kolak's exhaust. But with this thing just sitting there waiting to be welded up, it was an extremely worthwhile no brainer.


2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #17 of 39 Old 01-28-2009, 10:38 PM
-Shoey-
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Shoulda pulled that 4.7 off the wrecked dub too.....

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post #18 of 39 Old 01-28-2009, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
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2003 WJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoey40 View Post
Shoulda pulled that 4.7 off the wrecked dub too.....
Oh, I did. Sold the 4.7 and nearly broke even on the whole part out just from that. As for my 4.0... The 4.5L simple stroker is a future project

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #19 of 39 Old 01-28-2009, 10:48 PM
-Shoey-
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Ok, normally I would haze you, but hell, smart, man.

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post #20 of 39 Old 03-18-2009, 03:21 PM
mtb416
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2001 WJ 
 
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Quick question. How bad was your alignment after your BB install? Yes, another stupid BB question, get over it guys.
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post #21 of 39 Old 03-18-2009, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtb416 View Post
Quick question. How bad was your alignment after your BB install? Yes, another stupid BB question, get over it guys.
It wasn't ridiculous, but it's not what I would consider driveable. Pretty much everything was out of spec, maybe one or two specs were just barely in range IIRC.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #22 of 39 Old 03-28-2009, 06:46 PM
SplitPoly
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2003 WJ 
 
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Did you ever complete the write-up on your light bar v2.0?

I love cheap and easy mods...

- Rick
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post #23 of 39 Old 08-29-2009, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
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The incredibly long overdue light bar build!

And also the correct way to run wiring! I know a couple people have been waiting for this. We'll start with the physical make up of the light bar. One three foot piece of one inch by 1/16th inch steel will make up the mount to the Jeep. The section the lights attach to is up to you, flat aluminum or an L shaped bar. The flat one will obviously be better for aerodynamics, but I like the look of the L bar a bit better. You'll need this section to be four feet long and trim it down, or do what I did and use a three foot section and attach some additional material to it to extend the length.

The process: The first thing you need to do is take your 3 foot section of 1 inch steel and cut that into two 18 inch sections. Remove the front caps of the roof rack and remove the torx bolt inside. Slide one of your steel sections into this plastic and note where the hole for the torx bolt is. You're going to need to drill here. I didn't take pictures of these initial steps, but here is what we're going for:



The torx bolt is going to thread through the hole you've drilled into the steel and serve as the mounting point for the light bar, as well as the ground for the electrical connection. Take the other end of the steel bar and bend it up and back around, placing it into the plastic as well. It's going to look like this:



As you can already see, you'll drill again into the very top of the bend you have created, and this is where the top bar will attach. One decent grade screw and nut is plenty sufficient to hold this together. Now for the wiring. Your ground connection is created through the mounting points, so just ground each light to its own mounting point on the bar, like this:



The positive wire (for which I used 12 gauge, as I am running four lights), can be run down around the windshield. I think these pictures show it better than I can describe it:












2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #24 of 39 Old 08-29-2009, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
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Light bar page dos

Now, when you get to the fender, you'll need to pull away the weather stripping and run your wire behind that, like so:



Do this for the outer and inner weather stripping:



Now your wire can just be run behind the glove box and drop down under the dash:





This will work if your positive power source is inside the Jeep, as mine is. I recommend running a positive power line from the battery to the interior of the Jeep, so you don't need to run switch wiring and your relay under the hood. This keeps the setup as simple as possible. I have a 4 gauge wire with an 80 amp fuse running to the interior with a distribution block, that way I only have to tap into that for a positive source. I also have a grounding distribution block for simplicity's sake. Be sure to put inline fuses on all positive wiring. I place them both before and after relays when running lights, or at any step where a short could conceivably take place.

The result is a great deal of light for extremely little cost.



Overall, I spent about $20 on metal, $40 on lights, and maybe $10 for a switch, relay, and all wiring. Other bits I used included electrical connectors, tape, solder, and the wire covering, all of which was already in my tool chest. I've had this light bar running for a few months now, and it is rock solid against highway speeds and bouncing around on dirt roads. If I left anything out of this, feel free to post up questions

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #25 of 39 Old 08-29-2009, 07:40 PM
gatorayde
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Nice looking WJ. Limited headlights look so much better on the laredo's with chrome grills.
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post #26 of 39 Old 08-29-2009, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorayde View Post
Nice looking WJ. Limited headlights look so much better on the laredo's with chrome grills.
Agreed! I could swear there's even a bit more light output, because everything reflects out of the housing.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #27 of 39 Old 09-06-2009, 03:50 PM
peicherokee
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yeh that is where I ran my wires too But my positive is under the hood I have a temporary fix to run them into the cab right now, How do ya run the wires through the firewall?

THE MORE MUD THE BETTER

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post #28 of 39 Old 09-06-2009, 07:06 PM
Darthteddy
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Lookin Good





My Jeeps have taught me many life lessons unfortunatly

Dylan-19 and Yearning
93 Rubigrand - Sold... :'(
95 Grand Cherokee Limited - 5.2 Mall Crawler
55 Willy's M38a1 - 231v6, 33" Super Swampers, D44 Full Floater Rear, Locked Front and Rear, 5.38 Gears, Viair OBA, Bilsteen 5100 shocks, Dana 18, Turbo 350, S10 Power Steering, Tilt-wheel, Full Cage, Flat Fenders....
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post #29 of 39 Old 09-06-2009, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peicherokee View Post
yeh that is where I ran my wires too But my positive is under the hood I have a temporary fix to run them into the cab right now, How do ya run the wires through the firewall?
On WJ's there is a large grommet on the firewall just about the brake pedal. On my old ZJ, I had to drill, but there may be a better solution I'm not presently aware of.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here: Life lessons and budget build
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post #30 of 39 Old 09-07-2009, 04:44 AM
onecrazyjeep
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Quick question for you pianoman. I live Parrish and see you have been off road is there a place north of me near tampa you go to ordo do you go to the myakka mud fest or c&r or down to lacros? Thanks for the info.
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