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Unread 03-31-2011, 07:47 PM   #1366
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skytard
what new stuff?!!
Starter, alternator, and new battery cables.

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Unread 03-31-2011, 07:51 PM   #1367
narnwv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
2 gauge is it. Winch coming soon.

Should I run 2 gauge to my starter? And from my alternator? And for both of my grounds?
I did 4 gauge grounds, 4 gauge to the alt and starter. Lights are brighter and the starter sounds like it's in hyperdrive when cranking

I don't see a need for anything too much bigger than stock on the starter. I like the bigger wire on the alternator, as it allows more current (not that the stock wire was insufficient) Part of my lights brighter could be just that I replaced an 11-12 year old corroded cable with a new one.

I used 4ga, as I had about 25 feet of it hanging in the garage that was used for amp wiring in an old car of mine.

I took a wire brush wheel cup that fits into my air-powered die grinder and cleaned up the body around the grounds, taking some paint off as well, and put on big copper connectors. I need to get pics of all of this.

This: is what I used in my 10,000 rpm die grinder to clean the body where the grounds attach.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 07:52 PM   #1368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
Starter, alternator, and new battery cables.
are you just replacing **** just 'cause?
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:12 PM   #1369
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv

are you just replacing **** just 'cause?
My starter is 12 years old, my cables are 12 years old and I want to upgrade where I can. I have a duel post battery. I'm going to put one of the grounds on the side post. I'm hoping to get some more power with fresh cables and new alternator. I'm tired of the dragging starter too. It's very weak. So I'm going to freshen the electrical system up.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:15 PM   #1370
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That's why I re-did my wiring too. (age) I'd keep the side posts free for your winch. It has to be directly connected to the battery. You can't ground it to the body. Too much current pull (under HEAVY load).
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:16 PM   #1371
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv
That's why I re-did my wiring too. (age) I'd keep the side posts free for your winch. It has to be directly connected to the battery. You can't ground it to the body. Too much current pull (under HEAVY load).
Awe!!! Good point! I guess I'll splice the grounds together for the negative. So there are 4 cables all together?
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:18 PM   #1372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
So there are 4 cables all together?
For what? A winch? The winch should have 2 wires for power, then something else for a switch/remote to trigger a solenoid/relay to allow the current to flow to the winch motor.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:24 PM   #1373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv

For what? A winch? The winch should have 2 wires for power, then something else for a switch/remote to trigger a solenoid/relay to allow the current to flow to the winch motor.
For my jeep. Two grounds. One starter and one alternator?
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:29 PM   #1374
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there is no ground for the alternator. It gets it's ground from the block. It sure doesn't hurt to add a ground to the alternator bracket. I used to do that when I was heavy into car audio stuff, just trying to squeeze every little amp out of everything.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:36 PM   #1375
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv
there is no ground for the alternator. It gets it's ground from the block. It sure doesn't hurt to add a ground to the alternator bracket. I used to do that when I was heavy into car audio stuff, just trying to squeeze every little amp out of everything.
I think I have 2 grounds though.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:39 PM   #1376
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one goes to the body, the other should go to the block right at the starter if I'm not mistaken.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:55 PM   #1377
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I may have missed the page where this could have been discussed already but, did you replace your front driveshaft? I'm looking to do a 4" lift but the one thing really holding me back is replacing my front driveshaft. my 2000 WJ is has a quadradrive nv-247 so its in 4wheel all the time unfortunately, so thats why I'm really concerned about my front driveshaft.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 08:57 PM   #1378
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Originally Posted by islandwheeler View Post
I may have missed the page where this could have been discussed already but, did you replace your front driveshaft? I'm looking to do a 4" lift but the one thing really holding me back is replacing my front driveshaft. my 2000 WJ is has a quadradrive nv-247 so its in 4wheel all the time unfortunately, so thats why I'm really concerned about my front driveshaft.
You're not in 4wd all the time.

The front drive shaft turns all the time, even for those of us who have a true 2wd option on our tranfer cases. The 4x4 system has nothing to do with the front drive shaft needing replaced with the lift.
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Unread 03-31-2011, 09:00 PM   #1379
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Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
You're not in 4wd all the time.

The front drive shaft turns all the time, even for those of us who have a true 2wd option on our tranfer cases. The 4x4 system has nothing to do with the front drive shaft needing replaced with the lift.
Oh okay well thats my mistake because I thought your 2wd was technically rear wheel, therefor the front driveshaft wouldnt spin unless put into 4wd. And what do you mean I'm not in 4wd all the time?
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Unread 03-31-2011, 09:03 PM   #1380
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Oh okay well thats my mistake because I thought your 2wd was technically rear wheel, therefor the front driveshaft wouldnt spin unless put into 4wd. And what do you mean I'm not in 4wd all the time?
This isn't conversation for SplitNail's build thread......

You'll find this information in the tech forum.

Have a read here:
http://wjjeeps.com/tcases.htm
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