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Unread 01-16-2012, 12:43 PM   #2041
mrJ
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It just looks....goopy? I would tell them its not kosher. Bring up why (not supposed to use seam welds, etc) and that it looks spotty. Hell, offer to do it yourself with his rig. Go check the welds on the trucks they build and see if its spotty. If they do this for a living, they should already know about heat displacement, etc. Was he in a hurry with yours or what?

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Unread 01-16-2012, 12:52 PM   #2042
SplitNail
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Okay, I called him back and they are going to take a look at it and "touch it up". I'm going to make sure they grind those off and stitch them together.
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Unread 01-16-2012, 01:35 PM   #2043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SplitNail
Okay, I called him back and they are going to take a look at it and "touch it up". I'm going to make sure they grind those off and stitch them together.
I'm thinking about grinding them off and doing them with my 110 flux core.
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Unread 01-16-2012, 02:30 PM   #2044
AgitatedPancake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
What would you do?

And yes this was a shop.

Honestly at this point there's not much to do. The job isn't actually the worst I've seen, I just would have done a few things differently. I would recommend against grinding off (atleast the good looking ones) and rewelding, because your just going to be adding more heat into everything. The worst looking welds in your pics (the ones with holes) are on something 1/32" thick or so, so not only is it hard to weld it isn't adding a ton of strength even with a solid weld.

What you have would probably hold up fine for a good while, but if you want to be preventative about the potential cracking in the long run I'd add some plates to the sides of the unibody right where your main LCA plate is. Turning your current flat plate into a U channel that wraps around the unibody. I'd stitch weld those new plates to the unibody, and run a nice solid continuous bead where your welding the new plates to your current one (where your connecting thick material to thick material). It'll help disperse the loading throughout more of the unibody and keep things happy
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Unread 01-16-2012, 02:45 PM   #2045
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake

Honestly at this point there's not much to do. The job isn't actually the worst I've seen, I just would have done a few things differently. I would recommend against grinding off (atleast the good looking ones) and rewelding, because your just going to be adding more heat into everything. The worst looking welds in your pics (the ones with holes) are on something 1/32" thick or so, so not only is it hard to weld it isn't adding a ton of strength even with a solid weld.

What you have would probably hold up fine for a good while, but if you want to be preventative about the potential cracking in the long run I'd add some plates to the sides of the unibody right where your main LCA plate is. Turning your current flat plate into a U channel that wraps around the unibody. I'd stitch weld those new plates to the unibody, and run a nice solid continuous bead where your welding the new plates to your current one (where your connecting thick material to thick material). It'll help disperse the loading throughout more of the unibody and keep things happy
So dont take it back to them? Haha
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Unread 01-17-2012, 04:41 PM   #2046
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hows your clearance with the 33s in the rear?
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Unread 01-17-2012, 04:53 PM   #2047
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerzeyBoyWJ
hows your clearance with the 33s in the rear?
Freaking great man! I love them!

But I need to trim my rear fenders and get my rear long arms. The axle is WAY to close to the body. But with my long arms on my passenger side tire rubs at full turn.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 07:24 PM   #2048
JerzeyBoyWJ
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Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
Freaking great man! I love them!

But I need to trim my rear fenders and get my rear long arms. The axle is WAY to close to the body. But with my long arms on my passenger side tire rubs at full turn.

im looking at a set of 33X12.50 mud grapplers tomorrow..how close are the tires to the rear fenders by the door? have any pictures?
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Unread 01-17-2012, 08:10 PM   #2049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerzeyBoyWJ

im looking at a set of 33X12.50 mud grapplers tomorrow..how close are the tires to the rear fenders by the door? have any pictures?
It's close! Haha.
image-4273844662.jpg  
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Unread 01-17-2012, 09:05 PM   #2050
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Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
It's close! Haha.
yeah it is but i like what im seeing because the tires im looking at have 50% tread so they wont be a full 33" tire...thanks for the picture it helped a bunch!
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Unread 01-17-2012, 10:02 PM   #2051
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerzeyBoyWJ

yeah it is but i like what im seeing because the tires im looking at have 50% tread so they wont be a full 33" tire...thanks for the picture it helped a bunch!
No problem man! That will look good.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 10:21 PM   #2052
JerzeyBoyWJ
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Originally Posted by SplitNail View Post
No problem man! That will look good.
yeah its just gonna be weird once i get my new lift and put the BFG A/Ts on
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Unread 01-17-2012, 10:32 PM   #2053
SplitNail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerzeyBoyWJ

yeah its just gonna be weird once i get my new lift and put the BFG A/Ts on
Haha. Yea. It will be good.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 09:37 AM   #2054
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Yes lots of space! And you kinda have too. If you start to cut more behind the tire you end up cutting off the mount that holds the fender on. It's bigger tire time!!
I still have my fender mounts and I cut about 3" more than that.


The plastic cladding needs to be centered though. I have to put molding tape back on it.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 09:44 AM   #2055
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It's close! Haha.
Cut it. Then you can run 35s if you want or just make a lot more room for the 33s.

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