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Unread 04-26-2009, 10:57 PM   #16
MoonyJohn
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How hard was it to cut off the old brackets from the 35 and weld them back onto the 8.8?

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Unread 04-27-2009, 07:44 AM   #17
spidermonkey
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Location: Two Harbors MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonyJohn View Post
How hard was it to cut off the old brackets from the 35 and weld them back onto the 8.8?
It wasn't hard. To salvage them you just have to be careful. I used a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel first. This will allow you to get at most of the welds. I cut right into the weld or under it instead of above like I did on the 8.8 to prevent cutting into the tubes. I then used a die grinder to get into the tighter spots the grinder wouldn't fit. It took about three hours for us to get them all off in one piece. I didn't care about the 35. If you cut too high you lose too much metal from the bracket and it's tougher to fit them on the 8.8.
I set the 35 on stands, set the pinion at zero. I measured the angle of each bracket and wrote it down. Then I measured placement from the center of the housing and the distance between each set of brackets for a way to double check. I wrote it all down with illistrations. We set the 8.8 up the same with pinion at zero on the angle finder. and copied placement from center.
We used a wirefeed to tack brackets and double and triple cheched measurements and angles, and kept checking the pinion stayed at zero. After we were positive each pair of brackets was right we used the stick welder to finish. Take care welding too. You should only do one pass and do one on the other side of the housing to give each pass time to cool before doing another on the same side. This prevents the possibility of warping the tubes. However, they are 1/4 thick so you should be fine. It's possible for the brackets to move slightly like with any time you weld so be sure your placement before hand is dead on. Once the heavy welding goes on thats where they are stayin, 1-2 degrees off should be OK for it.
This was my second 8.8 swap so I'm sorry I didn't document it better, any more questions just ask.
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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/spidermonkeys-98-zj-build-716209/
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com

Last edited by spidermonkey; 04-27-2009 at 07:59 AM..
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Unread 04-28-2009, 07:32 PM   #18
spidermonkey
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Today I tackled the low hanging adjustable width hitch. I took it apart, flipped the center and cut the bumper up 2". Then I painted it up to match the 8.8.



Just as I finished the Fed-Ex guy delivered my KOR radiator support and steering brace so I wiped them down and primed and painted to match. They are going on tomorrow.

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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 04-28-2009, 08:01 PM   #19
MoonyJohn
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Anymore pictures of the bumper?

EDIT: Nevermind, I thought you cut all the way around like CLNinja did to his.
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Unread 05-01-2009, 11:17 AM   #20
spidermonkey
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Today I made up some swaybar disco retainers. I put small eye bolts in factory holes above the swaybar. One is holding the battery tray in, the other is under the air box if you still have one. It cost me about $13 for hardware.






Here is a cheep driveway poser shot since I didn't have time to go rock hunting.

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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 05-09-2009, 03:09 PM   #21
spidermonkey
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I got these wheels on trade and they were too nice to paint yet so I cleaned them with acid and polished them by hand.



Here is a shot of the junyard skid I scored locally. I have to get the tranfer case skid mounted yet. I also picked up some used ACOS's on trade I hope to have in soon to perk the front end up.

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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 06-16-2009, 08:45 AM   #22
spidermonkey
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After helping my cousin on his rig I aquired his old RC lower control arms. I was waiting on these to finish up the front suspension. Now that I had the parts I tore into it yesterday. I had a pair of ACOS's from Randy waiting to go in too.

The ACOS's were missing the bumpstops though. Because they slip over the factory post I had to figure out how to make a bumpstop work. The Idea I had in my head worked out great.


The ACOS has a 1" thick aluminum spacer that mounts in the stock bumpstop location with a single bolt. The ZJ has bolt on bump stops like my old XJ.

The only issue I had was that the aftermarket bump stops I was using had the bolt welded to the insde of the cap.


Because of the spacer that must be used to mount the ACOS the bolts were too short. Luckily I saved the stock ZJ bump stops. They had the bolt seperate from the cup like this.



I used the bolt from the ACOS and the factory ZJ stops. Then I added a puck to the bottom and ended up with this.


I gave the RC control arms a shot of hammertone to clean them up and bolted them on. They are about 1/2" longer than stock. I didn't realy need the length because the ZJ uses cam bolts at the axle end of the arms. I will be going high pinion eventually though and these will be gone. The main reason is more suspension droop=more flex.


So now with the ACOS as low as they go it sits 1/2" higher in the front than before. If I need another inch or two of lift, or add a heavy bumper all I have to do is crank them up. It also freed up my 1" spacers so if needed I can use them in the back.
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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 06-16-2009, 09:24 AM   #23
DjDiddles
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Nice build so far!! That 8.8 is nice!!! Keep it coming!!
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Unread 06-21-2009, 05:35 PM   #24
spidermonkey
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I took it on it's first real wheeling trip. It worked flawlessly. Some of the trails were realy tight and I made it through unscathed.
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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 08-30-2009, 02:25 PM   #25
spidermonkey
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I put a set of AJ's superrails on today. I like.

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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 08-30-2009, 02:44 PM   #26
ZJ_Richie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidermonkey View Post
I put a set of AJ's superrails on today. I like.
Lookin' good
How much did those set you back?
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3 in. Pro Comp lift with crawlerready 2 in. spacers, longer than stock control arms, front adj. track bar with IRO hd mount, rear adj. track bar, jks discos, Currie Currectlync, black soft 8's with 32 in. Hankook Dynapro mts

Future mods: hp30, 8.8 swap, IRO's 5.5 Critcal Path Kit


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Unread 08-30-2009, 03:29 PM   #27
blackjack12982
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Looks good, man! Makes me wish the man in brown would come visit me. I've got sliders, skids, and a KOR rad support on the way.
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Want to do an Aurora reverse light swap? Need a 231/242 bezel? Need a Taurus efan? PM me
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Unread 08-30-2009, 05:36 PM   #28
spidermonkey
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$320 out of Iowa. For me it was the way to go. I had them in about a week.
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98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 09-24-2009, 07:41 PM   #29
spidermonkey
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I picked up a brand new Aussie from a buddy who never installed it for $200. I had it in in about three hours. I was hoping to do a nice write up with pics but they are everywhere and I didn't want to oil up the camera. Here is a rough idea of what is involved.

-put the front axle on stands and pull the wheels, brake calipers, and rotors

-remove the three 12 point bolts that hold the unit bearing on on each side

-remove the bearings and pull the shafts out about 6" may need a some taps with a hammer

-remove the diff cover and drain the oil, give the diff a brake cleaner bath

-remove the bearing caps that hold the diff in taking note of placement, they need to go back in the same locations

-gently pry out the carrier assembly, with a little meneuvering it should clear the tie rod

-put the carrier in a vice and remove the ring gear bolts, I used an impact

-tap out the roll pin with a screwdriver or correct size punch

-pull out the spider gears taking reference to the location and dirrection of the thrust washers on each side gear

- carefully install the Aussie as per the dirrections

-install the ring gear and lock tight and torque the bolts

-scrape all the old sealand off the housing and clean the cover

-gently install the carrier back in the housing and torque the bolts

-install the cover and fill with new oil

-re-install the shafts, bearings, brakes and wheels

-go crawlin!
__________________
98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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Unread 10-03-2009, 09:45 PM   #30
spidermonkey
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The front locker works great, but if you put one in and leave the old u-joints they will fail. One of mine did right after I put it in low. After replacing both of them, I'm realy happy with this rig. I get frustrated because there is more I want to do but I have to wait for funds. Then I realize, in just the 14 months or so I have owned it I have...

-tuned it and fixed the leaky trans output seal
-gave it a budget lift
-put new 31s on it for winter duty
-new CD player with I-pod control amp and sub
-CB and extinguisher
-bumper trim
-JKS discos
-IRO track bars
-front to rear and replaced front springs
-JKS ACOS's in front and retainers
-Rusty's tie rod and air intake
-new muffler and cat
-diff skids and tank and transfer skids
-AJs rock rails
-front Aussie
-8.8 swap!
cleaned the livin crud out of it
-1.25" wheel spacers
-KOR radiator support and steering brace


-then I realize, that's not bad.....of course this thread will never end so stick around.

__________________
98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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