Solomon8718's build thread - "Muddy Gorilla" - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 37 Old 06-26-2010, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 497
Alright, so I just got started this evening. I have the front jacked up with the frame up high on jack stands, and the axle supported by another pair of jack stands. Sorry, I know the photos are a little blurry, but my cell's camera doesn't do very well in low lighting situations in terms of the auto focus.




So I'm a little worried I won't be able to get away with using the stock swaybar links... We shall see tho. If you look closely at this last picture you can see that I have the driveshaft out too. Last I made sure all the pertinent bolts and nuts was lathered with a very generous helping of liquid wrench to get ready for tomorrow.

Anyway, thats where I'm at as of tonight. Now to enjoy a cold beer and pizza.


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post #17 of 37 Old 06-26-2010, 11:45 AM
Greengc4x4
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Beer and pizza Looks good so far man. LOve the color of your Jeep Do post pics when the lift is done!
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post #18 of 37 Old 06-26-2010, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Well, I've got the entire front axle lowered and the budget boost pucks placed on my bump stops with the springs replaced. (springs replaced not shown)






I ran into a problem removing trackbar at the axle. How do you do that!? It's like the bolt is on a spring. When you turn it, you can feel it move back when you let go of the breaker bar. That tab is also part of the assembly. My haynes manual doesn't say anything about it.
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post #19 of 37 Old 06-26-2010, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greengc4x4 View Post
Beer and pizza Looks good so far man. LOve the color of your Jeep Do post pics when the lift is done!
Thanks dude! Yeah beer n pizza is num. :P I just gotta figure out this trackbar now.
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post #20 of 37 Old 06-27-2010, 01:14 AM
Greengc4x4
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The tab/nut thing is rusted to the bolt. Time to bust out the sawzall and cut it out. Same thing happened to two of my Jeeps
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post #21 of 37 Old 07-06-2010, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Alright, sorry for the absence. Between a cold and the holiday I didn't get much else done. But I've got some good news and some bad news...
The good news is I was able to get the axle end of the trackbar off without cutting it.
The bad news is I stripped out the threads in the hole that the spring retainer bolt threads into. I tried repairing it with the M8 1.25 pitch tap, but it was too badly damaged. I'll have to drill and tap it for a standard 3/8-24 thread. :'(
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post #22 of 37 Old 07-06-2010, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Alright, sorry for the absence. Between a cold and the holiday I didn't get much else done. But I've got some good news and some bad news...
The good news is I was able to get the axle end of the trackbar off without cutting it.
The bad news is I stripped out the threads in the hole that the spring retainer bolt threads into. I tried repairing it with the M8 1.25 pitch tap, but it was too badly damaged. I'll have to drill and tap it for a standard 3/8-24 thread. :'(
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post #23 of 37 Old 07-06-2010, 09:45 AM
spidermonkey
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You can just use a self threading bolt that is slightly larger than the stock retainer bolts. I plan to do that. For now with short arms I don't even have them on. You only need them to keep the springs from falling out. It's very unlikely unless you run long arms.

98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here:
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speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers
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post #24 of 37 Old 07-06-2010, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidermonkey View Post
You can just use a self threading bolt that is slightly larger than the stock retainer bolts. I plan to do that. For now with short arms I don't even have them on. You only need them to keep the springs from falling out. It's very unlikely unless you run long arms.
Do you recommend any specific size? The stock is a M8 1.25, an M10 is quite a bit larger. I figured out 3/8 standard is the next closest size up from that... Could I get a 3/8 self threading to fit without drilling?
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post #25 of 37 Old 07-11-2010, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Well, I got a lot done yesterday. The axle is all re-attached and torqued down. I also have my trackbar in and fully assembled. And last but not least, the new IRO drag link and tie rod has all been attached. All that's left for the front end is manual alignment and assembly. After that it should be relatively simple to install the lift pucks on the rear.




If you have a Hayes manual, it lies about the torque setting for the lower shock bolts rating. Do not torque them to 20 ft.lb. or else this might happen...
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post #26 of 37 Old 07-11-2010, 12:35 PM
Spike300
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looking good keep it comin


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5.2-242 tcase-44a-30x9.50x15 MT/R-American Racing Burst Rims -Optima -E3 plugs-Custom Paint-Amsoil-Addco Front and Rear-polyurethane bushings

To be installed: RE gen2 discos, military battery terminals
To be rebuilt: HP30
To be received:
To be paid for:

Next on the list: complete redo of brakes and
lines
Needed: fittings, coil of brake tubing, Russel speed bleeders

Zombie Outbreak Response Unit #75
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post #27 of 37 Old 07-11-2010, 01:04 PM
Greengc4x4
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^x2. How do you like that steering so far? you'll have to report back once you get it on the road and have a few miles on it. I think Im getting that setup for my 94. Looks pretty nice.
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post #28 of 37 Old 07-12-2010, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the support.
I was finally able to get the front end aligned. The process is simple enough, but if anybody tells you its easy they are full of baloney! Especially with what that tie rod weighs lol! I had to call it quits a little bit early yesterday cause my last bolt turned out to be too short to fit all the way through both the steering stabilizer bushing and tie rod bracket. It did turn out that I used the wrong bolt on my driver side knuckle, but I rectified that and that bolt was too short too. So I resolved to call IRO today to try and figure out if I've done something wrong, before going out and buying a longer bolt. WE SHALL SEE!
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post #29 of 37 Old 08-01-2010, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Location: St. Paul, MN
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Well I took about a two week hiatus from this project but now I've almost completed it. As of this posting I only have four not driveshaft screws to reinstall. But here's what I did:

First, I had to cut one of my old rear swaybar links off with a hack saw. I couldn't get enough grip in it with a channel-locks in order to get the top nut off.


After that I tried using a coil spring compressor, and it was my first time using such a tool. But that style compressor required being in the center of the spring and there was no way that would work. So I went back to oriellies and got the strut compressor, which worked pretty good for me. After that I installed the new IRO links and put my tires back on. (not pictured)




Thanks for looking, final picks to come tonight!
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post #30 of 37 Old 08-06-2010, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
solomon8718
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Alright, I'm a little bit late with final pics but here they are. BB + OTK steering + DS Trackbar. At the time of this post it is at the shop getting a professional alignment.




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