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Unread 06-24-2012, 02:26 PM   #4441
snobrdrkid07
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Any Luck?

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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:08 PM   #4442
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Jeep Update Time!!!
Got everything done over the weekend, what a night and day difference!

First, the brakes, they are still in the break in period of those ~500 miles. But, DANG, they bite hard and quick. I am in love with them. There is NO "woossshing" sound, NO vibrations in the the pedal, and NO noise associated with them. Plus, they look sweet because they are drilled!

Next, the Tie Rods. Wooooooo talk about control and a "secure" feeling! Amazing difference, I can feel a little bit more road bumps/vibes in the steering wheel but the "wobble" I was feeling is gone. Tight tight tight! I need to fix the steering wheel, my mechanic over compensated for the lift, no big deal. Also need to add some more grease to the TRE's, again no big thing...

I plan on adding the Moog STB SS just for kicks.

P.S. If you missed my stuff about a lunch box locker, it was on the previous page
__________________
~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-26-2012, 03:07 AM   #4443
Larryftmfw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07
Jeep Update Time!!!

Got everything done over the weekend, what a night and day difference!

First, the brakes, they are still in the break in period of those ~500 miles. But, DANG, they bite hard and quick. I am in love with them. There is NO "woossshing" sound, NO vibrations in the the pedal, and NO noise associated with them. Plus, they look sweet because they are drilled!

Next, the Tie Rods. Wooooooo talk about control and a "secure" feeling! Amazing difference, I can feel a little bit more road bumps/vibes in the steering wheel but the "wobble" I was feeling is gone. Tight tight tight! I need to fix the steering wheel, my mechanic over compensated for the lift, no big deal. Also need to add some more grease to the TRE's, again no big thing...

I plan on adding the Moog STB SS just for kicks.

P.S. If you missed my stuff about a lunch box locker, it was on the previous page
Look at your steering box when you get a chance to see if those bolts have nuts on them

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Unread 06-26-2012, 04:20 AM   #4444
billzcat1
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Nope, the steering box is threaded. No need for nuts.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 04:32 AM   #4445
billzcat1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
So call me crazy but, I had a dream about the Jeep last night... haha, it was about putting lsd's or a lunch box locker in. Which is a pretty good idea in my opinion. I think we have talked about it before. But now i am seriously considering something so I dont have open/open anymore. Id like to get something that is going to help me in the snow because it snows a lot at school. Then secondly it'll be okay on the road. Then thirdly also be good for wheeling.
You're pretty picky about your Jeep, and honestly a lunchbox is going to make too much noise for you on the street. And it's going to suck in the snow, that back end is going to come around on you like nothing.

If you really want to be better prepared for snow, then buy better tires.
I put a $300 set of snow tires like I did in my open/open ZJ -which never got stuck in the worst snow storm we've ever had in WA, the one that dropped 18" overnight and then turned to solid ice. Tires are far more important than lockers and those Geolanders aren't going to do you any favors either on the trail or in the snow. I would either buy some good A/Ts that are severe-weather rated or buy a second set of snow tires. The Hankook I-Pike and General Altimax Arctic are both excellent and extremely cheap winter tires that will blow the doors off any A/T, even the vaunted Duratrac.

After tires I would just stock up on recovery gear, supplies, discos, and various off-road gear before I went for lockers. Air compressor, tools, radio, etc. I mean, you don't even wheel for fear of getting scratches, which is ok. But it means that you don't need a locker if you won't do anything that might scratch your Jeep.

If you are downright convinced that you can't live without a traction adder of some kind, and you're ignoring the fact that your tires need significant improvement first, then skip the lunchbox. Unfortunately, anything worth doing (like a TrueTrac or a full-case locker like a Detroit) is going to cost you as much or more than a pair of VariLok axles from a QuadraDrive WJ. And you'll only have one axle done at that point. I mean, a TrueTrac install will come in at $1400 for the rear axle alone.

Again - I think you need more tire and more driving skill before you need to go with a locker that destroys your snow-handling ability.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 02:46 PM   #4446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
You're pretty picky about your Jeep, and honestly a lunchbox is going to make too much noise for you on the street. And it's going to suck in the snow, that back end is going to come around on you like nothing.
You got me on that one without a doubt. Yes, I am very picky about the Jeep but, my hope with being the way I am is that it will serve me longer. Being super picky about maintenance, replacing things before they break and also keeping the paint super nice and away from trees. While I know the WJ won't last me forever I would like to keep it for then next 5 years until I get another Jeep or car. (But, I will still never sell/trade this one)

Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
If you really want to be better prepared for snow, then buy better tires.
I put a $300 set of snow tires like I did in my open/open ZJ -which never got stuck in the worst snow storm we've ever had in WA, the one that dropped 18" overnight and then turned to solid ice. Tires are far more important than lockers and those Geolanders aren't going to do you any favors either on the trail or in the snow. I would either buy some good A/Ts that are severe-weather rated or buy a second set of snow tires. The Hankook I-Pike and General Altimax Arctic are both excellent and extremely cheap winter tires that will blow the doors off any A/T, even the vaunted Duratrac.
While I will agree that there are better snow tires out there then what I have, no doubt. However, I have to respectfully disagree in the matter of them "sucking" in the snow, again not the best, but not the worst. They were not bad at all in the ~6" inches of snow on the road. Then later on the trail it was about 8" and patches of ice, keeping control of speed and the vehicle is a large factor but they did well. Why I had brought this topic up was when all 4 wheels spinning would be nicer then just 2. On some ice when one side has traction and the other does not, or starting off in the deep snow. According to many reviews, they do perform well in the snow. especially for not being a specifically made snow/ice tire.

On the trail, I think you remember that video of me going up some rocks. The reason why that sucked was because the tires were at 38 PSI and I was too lazy to air down because we were leaving right after that. I stongly believe if I would have let them down to to ~18 PSI they would have performed much better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
After tires I would just stock up on recovery gear, supplies, discos, and various off-road gear before I went for lockers. Air compressor, tools, radio, etc. I mean, you don't even wheel for fear of getting scratches, which is ok. But it means that you don't need a locker if you won't do anything that might scratch your Jeep.
I do currently have in my truck, a set of tools, an air compressor, a tow strap, hitch, shackles, and a few other misc items (duck tape, haha, you never know). Then I do also have a CB. What I don't have are the front disco's.

Here is where I draw my line on the wheeling part. Yes, I do take it off road and I love doing it. Most of the trails that I go on with the club are wide and open. When it comes down to trying to squeeze it through a thick amount of brush, that is where I would say no thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
If you are downright convinced that you can't live without a traction adder of some kind, and you're ignoring the fact that your tires need significant improvement first, then skip the lunchbox. Unfortunately, anything worth doing (like a TrueTrac or a full-case locker like a Detroit) is going to cost you as much or more than a pair of VariLok axles from a QuadraDrive WJ. And you'll only have one axle done at that point. I mean, a TrueTrac install will come in at $1400 for the rear axle alone.
So, after my reality check. Sounds like from what I had figured out in the beginning. To do it right, for DD'ing, snow traction, etc would be to get some QD axles. Possible to take the axle shafts and the gears and the swap them in to the D30 that I have?

Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
Again - I think you need more tire and more driving skill before you need to go with a locker that destroys your snow-handling ability.
Thanks for setting it straight! My mind wonders deeper then my pockets!
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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-26-2012, 11:50 PM   #4447
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I didn't say they sucked, I said they aren't doing you any favors. I know you are happy with them, but if you are looking for snow performance, you are leaving a lot on the table. All-terrains are adequate in the snow. Adequate. Your words here: "not bad". Snow tires are phenomenal. It's a whole different ball game. In my ZJ, on $70/each Hankook IPikes... in 12-18" of fresh...stomp on the gas and have zero wheel spin. Open/Open with a very old NP249. That wasn't even with studs! (which are a bad idea IMO). No question the cheapo IPike tires were twice the traction of the SilentArmors I have now (which are mountain/snowflake rated A/Ts).

Here's what you are missing with the traction equation: sure you can get going. It's the turning and stopping you have to worry about. Four wheel drive means you always have the traction to get moving. The weight of the Jeep and the simple suspension are your enemies when it comes to turning and stopping. Another thought - what you want when snow-wheeling is not what you want when you are driving on the street. Locker = great when you need to get started in the deep stuff. Not so great when you are driving on compact snow/ice on the street and have to take a sharp turn. The things that are great at 6 mph might not be so good at 30.

I think you'll be really happy with both the ride and the traction when you air down and disconnect the front axle. I would keep the rear axle connected, I have tried it both ways and prefer it connected. Even when open, it still works wonders with traction.

Back to traction adders - the QuadraDrive axles are going to be the most cost effective solution and will give you the transparency on the street that I know you want. I definitely wouldn't try to swap parts into your existing axle, that's really defeating the purpose of getting axles. The thing that makes the QD axles so cost effective is that you don't have to deal with diff setup issues. That's the expensive part. Putting a QD diff and axle shafts into the front diff is going to be more expensive than buying a complete axle assembly. Now, you also don't start with a freshly-rebuilt diff, but you get two excellent LSDs for less than the cost of a single locker + setup - and without any of the handling quirks you would deal with using a locker in the snow.
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Unread 06-27-2012, 08:17 AM   #4448
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You are right, you did not say that. It had initially came off to me in a more negative fashion then what you had intended. Anyways, that was my bad, no big thing. Like you had said A/t's and winter tires are in their own class! I looked up those tires and I could not find my "size" for the Jeep. If I do go get some winter tires, they are going to be on the 17 inch rims for a "winter" set.

What the problem was on the ice, I had two tires on ice and the other two on traction. You know what that means, the two tires that had traction were not moving and the tires on the ice were slipping. This was when I was trying to get started going. A locker would be nice there until, boom, you need to turn sharp and that locker is going to be pushing you straight!

The times I wheeled, I was on sh** shocks, street PSI, and connected up front. So I am going to fix that this year! I am looking to get a better (faster) compressor too. Makes airing down less a hassle when it comes to filling them back up!

QD is simply the best thing to do to get a LSD. That is clear. But, why I asked if swapping in was possible is because of this. I am up in the air whether I am going to get a new axle or weld on some tubing to fix my front axle's lower coil perches. As you know I just put those new tie rods on, but those can be pulled off and swapped on with out much of an issue. So either I can put money into my current axle to fix it and leave it, OR find a D30 WJ QD axle and swap it in. I have re-geared two axles before, a D30 and a D44. Going from 3.07 to 4.56, did all the shims, set up, backlash, paint to check the pattern, etc etc. I was working with someone who has done it many of times and he would gladly watch over my shoulder IF I was to go that route. Would need to buy a master install kit. It was not "hard" as much of time consuming to set it all up correctly. While swapping an axle would be easier, I would say that swapping the gears/axle shafts is not impossible. I would RATHER get a QD axle and slap it in there would def be easier. That is something to look at down the road though. As for the rear while on this topic, I sadly dumped money into the D35 to get the axle seals fixed. Should have bought a 44a for that price *rolls-eyes* However, JY's round me want 5-800 for a QD WJ 44a
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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-27-2012, 09:22 AM   #4449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
What the problem was on the ice, I had two tires on ice and the other two on traction. You know what that means, the two tires that had traction were not moving and the tires on the ice were slipping. This was when I was trying to get started going.
If you were having this issue in your driveway, ditch, etc., a little bit of kitty litter and feathering the brakes helps - E-brake for the rear, pedal for the front. This works even on open differentials (though not spectacularly).

If you are referring to having this issue while offroading in snow, that's a little different story. I doubt you want to throw kitty litter out all over the trails!

A year or so ago, I was thinking the same thing as you - slap a locker on and be ready to go. The more I researched it, the more I decided that wasn't the way to go. In the way of snow traction, I'm with billz on the limited slip option. The only other option would be an air or mechanical locker, which is quite expensive!
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Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 06-27-2012, 09:26 AM   #4450
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Yeah, about $1000/pr is a pretty fair price for QD axles. Another great winter tire you might be able to find - General Altimax Arctic - these are actually the best available for outright snow traction, and reasonably priced as well. I didn't know you had axle setup skills under your belt. Very few people do. I figured since you were having a mechanic do your easy jobs you didn't have that skill set. I'd assumed you'd be paying for the job... which would cost as much as that pair of already-set-up axles.

For that traction situation on open diffs - two tires spinning - use your left foot on the brake pedal to give the effect of an LSD or traction control. It will keep the spinning wheels in check and transfer some torque to the wheels that are spinning. "Left Foot Locker" or "Redneck Locker".

For the compressor, I'm super happy with the SuperFlow MV-50 (also called the Tsunami MF-1050, and the Smittybilt OBA). Inexpensive ($60 on Amazon) and reasonably fast. It beats out anything under $200 for air up times. This test is a little old but it does compare to some big names (QuickAir and Viair) I timed mine. From 10-38 psi was 2 minutes flat (per tire). Actually what I wanted to see was how far I'd get in 2 minutes. Another handy tool that goes with - the Currie Deflator. Very easy to use, nicely made, and speeds up air-down time significantly. I wouldn't bother with any other 12v compressor. If you want to go faster, then go to a CO2 tank - at about $150, it will be cheaper than the next-best 12v compressor.
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Unread 06-27-2012, 09:50 AM   #4451
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Chris - On a sheet of ice on the trail. That comes down to tires and open diffs. LSD's would have helped! I was not stepping on it either, was giving it just enough to move and then that tiny bit of gas was causing it to break traction. I agree, do it right and get some QD axles. Steal the D44's out of the Rubicon with the air lockers.

Richard - There was a guy on here getting D44a Vari-Lock for 250 at his local JY, IIRC down in Tennessee. I should have jumped on that one! I'd love to throw a 44a under there sooo bad! Maybe when my front D.S. blows up, that will be another step in a new axle direction? I will keep that tire on my list that I have going, thanks man!

The reasons that I hand the keys over to my mechanic at times are because 1, I do not have always have the right tools for the job. For example, the axle seals, did not really have access to a bearing press. 2, My Mom does not always trust my abilities even though I am confident in what I can do. 3, I don't know how to do everything, there are still things that come up and stump me at times. Why it went to my mechanic last weekend is because I was on vacation, I had work/school all this week, and I am going away the following week with the Jeep. It just needed it to be done. He just did it all for me, brakes, tie rods, alignment, re-balance tires, and break in the brakes.. He did all that for 175, can't complain. Only things that I would still leave along are engine internals and transmission stuff.

The guy that I did the axles with is the president of our Jeep club at VT. He is a really really nice guy, if you buy the parts and help him do the install, he will do it for a 12 pack He taught me hands on a few months ago. If I were to go that route, I would have him look over my shoulder. Then once I have 3-4 under my belt I'd be good to go. Re-gearing has been something I've always wanted to learn how to do, I am glad to say that I have done, it can be a real money saver!!!

I've had my eye on the SuperFlow MV-50 by Q-Industries for some time now. Its $70 right now, waiting for it to drop to $50 like it did one time. (I snagged the Moog STB SS on amazon yesterday for 45 with free 2-day shipping, it is back up to 55 now). So I am stalking amazon for that price to drop again and I will snag that one.
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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-27-2012, 01:19 PM   #4452
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Just some pictures haha.






forumrunner_20120627_151929.jpg   forumrunner_20120627_151941.jpg   forumrunner_20120627_151948.jpg  
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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

-Michael-

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Unread 06-27-2012, 02:10 PM   #4453
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Ford Escape Hybrid badge?
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Unread 06-27-2012, 02:20 PM   #4454
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Ford Escape Hybrid badge?
Tahoe badge. It's actually a nice.
Adding that along with my, Overland, Freedom, v8 h.o., quadra drive, and now a hybrid badge.
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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

-Michael-

For Sale:
Front XJ/TJ 2" Budget Boost. PM for details.
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Unread 06-27-2012, 02:35 PM   #4455
ChrisHager
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 4,488
Have I missed something?
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His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
Hers: 2000 TJ

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

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Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
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Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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