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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:20 PM   #4126
billzcat1
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Refresh my brain... what oil and filter do you run?

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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:22 PM   #4127
snobrdrkid07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1
Refresh my brain... what oil and filter do you run?
I run 5w-40 wal-mart brand oil with a fram filter....

KIDDING! I run Mobile 1 10w-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage with a Mopar Filter.
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~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:28 PM   #4128
billzcat1
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[OILNERD]Supertech is a surprisingly good oil for a conventional oil. I would be very surprised to see it in a 5W-40 weight, that's typically used in high-end European and some specialty diesel applications[/OILNERD]

[REGULAR GUY]I see what you did there![/REGULAR GUY]

Well, that reduces the likelihood of deficient oiling or a chomped up lifter. Don't know what to tell you, brah. Keep on keepin on!
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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:32 PM   #4129
snobrdrkid07
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Good, because i put Supertech in my lawn mower and chain saw haha.

I think I will have my mechanic pull the valve cover and see if there is anything visually wrong. What makes it weird is that the classic lifter tick sound is sporatic and random. It is not on every startup. Maybe 1 in 30 start ups. When it does happen, its a cold start thats been sitting for a while. But even then it does not always do it. So i dont know what to do other then pull the valve cover.
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~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:44 PM   #4130
billzcat1
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Well if it's just lifter tick that goes away I would chill out and stop worrying. If it it's like a gnome is trying to break out of the engine with a hammer (rod knock) then you might have reason to worry.
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Unread 06-04-2012, 12:36 AM   #4131
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after switching to rotella my i6 overall got a bit quieter in most situations but I still get a bit of what I consider a gurgling noise coming from the engine under load for the first 20-30 seconds on a cold engine
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Unread 06-04-2012, 07:14 AM   #4132
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If you are occasionally getting some noise like that after long sits, if I had to guess something was actually wrong, I'd maybe lean towards an oil galley that's partially plugged. The fact that you run good oil makes it hard for me to believe that's the problem, though you never really know.

I'd have to agree with billz, though. If it's just a little ticking from time to time, you are ahead of the game compared to a lot of people!
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But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
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The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
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Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 06-04-2012, 07:19 AM   #4133
snobrdrkid07
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I have been ignoring the occasional lifter tick and just cringe a little and move on, because that is no big deal. What happened yesterday seemed different, louder, to me and that is why I like freaked out. Maybe between being in the garage and having the windows down some amplified the sound. It was not shaking or anything like that or running rough. Just made a louder then usual "lifter tapping" sound. I just wonder WHY it does that. Because oil isnt getting to the lifters fast enough? I don't know internals 100% to name parts and say where the oil needs to go...

Chris, you posted as I was typing this up. And to what you said, I would not think that regular OCI of 5K miles with the M1 Full Syth HM and a Mopar Filter would be causing a problem. But, anything can happen. Pulling the valve cover a good idea to see if there is any gunk in there?
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~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-04-2012, 07:52 AM   #4134
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In simple terms (because this is the best way I know how to explain it), lifters need to be 'pumped up' with oil to the correct pressure/height/whatever you want to call it. The longer it takes for a lifter to pump up, the more play you will have between the lifter-pushrod-rocker, creating the tap. If an oil galley or lifter is plugged up, it will take longer for the lifter to fill. See how squishy my bad lifter was:



Pulling the valve cover might be helpful but if you are looking for gunk alone, shine a flashlight down the oil hole. My entire engine was shiny as all get out when I had to replace everything. If you have very slight occasional lifter tick, you won't be seeing the 'squishy lifter' like I had.
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Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 06-04-2012, 05:46 PM   #4135
snobrdrkid07
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Okay thank you for explaining that. The "push-rod" is what you were pressing down in the video. Then the little bean shaped arm that sits on the spring is the rocker. The the 'lifter' is what can not be seen. Is that all correct? Now where is it metal-on-metal that creates the audible tap that we all here? Is that between the lifter and the push-rod?
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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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Unread 06-04-2012, 05:56 PM   #4136
snobrdrkid07
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Did some yard work today! (The reason it is not strapped down, YET, is because all this is from my neighbors house, two doors down, and I only drove on my street at like 5 mph haha)




Suspension is hold up really well. The trailer weighs it down about an inch in the rear.

Difference was not that bad, the tongue weight is around ~250 pounds. If I would have to guess.




So nice to be taller

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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

-Michael-

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Unread 06-05-2012, 07:41 AM   #4137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
Okay thank you for explaining that. The "push-rod" is what you were pressing down in the video. Then the little bean shaped arm that sits on the spring is the rocker. The the 'lifter' is what can not be seen. Is that all correct? Now where is it metal-on-metal that creates the audible tap that we all here? Is that between the lifter and the push-rod?
Yes, the push rod is the part I'm pushing on. It is hollow allowing oil to flow up through it lubricating the rockers. The rocker is indeed what sits on the springs. The push rod literally pushes up on the rocker, which acts as a seesaw and pushes down on the valve, opening it. The spring returns the rocker to its starting position. The lifter is what can't be seen below the push rod.



If you look very closely, you can see a pin hole in the lifter on the right. That caused the lifter to not be able to hold pressure.

I believe the metal on metal 'tick' comes from the push rod tapping into the rocker. The push rod will sit on the lifter, even if it isn't pumped up fully. The camshaft lifts the lifter and push rod and if zero clearance isn't achieved, the push rod will tick against the rocker.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 06:34 PM   #4138
snobrdrkid07
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Chris, thank you so much for explaining all of this! It all makes a lot more sense now with all that explained. So the camshaft is actually not where i thought it was. So it would be on the left side of the engine, facing from the front and about the middle of it height wise. Which now makes more sense because the timing chain goes over to where the cam shaft is. Then in the end, ive learned more about my straight six by putting more pieces together.
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~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~

~ Snobrdrkid's "Build" Thread ~ YouTube Channel ~ Fuelly ~WJ 4.0 Transmission Cooler Info ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | 2" Spacer Lift | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

-Michael-

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Unread 06-05-2012, 07:48 PM   #4139
Cowboyup94
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"I think I will have my mechanic pull the valve cover and see if there is anything visually wrong." WTF? You can do this yourself!
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Unread 06-05-2012, 07:52 PM   #4140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboyup94
"I think I will have my mechanic pull the valve cover and see if there is anything visually wrong." WTF? You can do this yourself!
Is he on retainer...your mechanic?
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