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post #2881 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
snobrdrkid07
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He is at a dealer and using all mopar parts...

The engine and transmission mounts are out of my experience that I currently feel comfortable doing. I trust this guy to do stuff right. He may work at a dealer but does what he can to help me out. He is a good family friend.

I agree that when I get around to doing the a-arm I will probably just go the IRO a-arm route cause I do plan on doing that lift eventually. That 350 was for a whole new arm, new ball joint and also the labor.

The PCV valves are done. I have heard of them cracking and then getting into the valves. So I just let him deal with all of that.


~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2882 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so I talked to him again. I am going to get the engine/transmissible mounts replaced for around 300. Looked up the parts and it was about 150 for parts for non-mopar parts.

I am going to wait on all the rear a arm stuff. I am going to look into the IRO rear a arm but it says it only works for 2 to 7 inches of lift... I guess that will have to be after the lift....

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2883 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 06:39 PM
alwaysHI
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perfect! you'll be in there anyway when you do the lift so it'll definitely feel like a brand new jeep!

Bronson = 21 yrs. old
BUILT, NOT BOUGHT - WORKED HARD FOR, NOT KISSED MOMMY/DADDYS A** FOR!
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post #2884 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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I think this whole situation while crappy, will all work out. The engine mounts and transmission mounts I can deal with for 300 or so dollars. I do not feel comfortable doing that myself. So I am happy to pay a friend who I trust to do it right.

Then when the lift goes in, I will have a reason to get that fancy adjustable a-arm from IRO!!

Then thankfully the brakes are not shot and I can wait on those. I will probably go with Kolak and his Stillen Rotors and those will probably be done by the time summer rolls around.

So all in all not to bad

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2885 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 07:17 PM
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Ebc brakes!

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It's a Jeep, it's not supposed to work right all the time.

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post #2886 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrJ View Post
Ebc brakes!
What do those run for a set of rotors and pads?

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2887 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
Alright, so my mechanic called back and here is the rundown:
1. Brakes have about 5 or 8 thousand miles on the front rotor/pads - 220 (going to wait a little on those)
2. The engine and transmission mounts are cracked/shot - 400 for parts and labor
3. The rear a-arm bushings on the frame are shot and the he suggested to do the ball joint at the same time. He said the whole a-arm needs replaced because the bushings on the frame side only come with a new arm, then the ball joint is seperate - 350 for new a-arm, ball joint, and labor
4. Replacing both the PCV valves - 40 bucks parts and labor
5. He test drove and said everything else looked good - check
6. Checked all the fluids and were good. - check

Called dad and was pissed and didn't want to do any of that excpect the PCV valves...

what do you all think?
1. Napa Premium Rotors for $30 each and Wagner Thermoquiet Pads for $50. Will beat whatever Mopar parts are going on. Nice fun project to do yourself I have a picture by picture for em if you're interested I'll post em up with instructions for ya.
2. Support drivetrain and unbolt the like 4 bolts for the crossmember and lower it down, replace tranny mount easy peasy lemon squeezy. Engine mounts are a little more complicated because of tight spaces but nonetheless doable same principle support the engine by the oil pan with a block of wood and change mounts out one at a time.
3. If the bushings are indeed shot its possible to press new ones in but practical to just buy a new arm because usually you destroy the arm trying to get the old ones out. Team grand cherokee has them with bushings installed for like $120. For $300 I'd get an IRO arm and install yourself. I got a heavy duty moog ball joint for $30 for mine and thats not a big deal to do if you jack up and support the frame and let the axle droop down. A good couple hours of work and ratcheting wrenches very useful. I wouldnt be direly worried about getting it done I'd wait till you're doing the lift mines been making noise for 10k miles now and been through all sorts of lift angles and flexing and spirited driving and it still just makes noises. It takes a lot to actually blow one just take it easy on the rear end till you get it done.
4.I wouldnt pay someone to do this, buy new ones at auto stores for pocket change and literally they're just in rubber grommets on the top of the valve cover just give them a nice firm pull and they'll pop right out. Dont be afraid to give them some force. They shouldnt break but even if they do dont panic just dont start the Jeep and come back here for advice, worst thing you'd have to do is pull the valve cover.
5.
6. Bet he didnt check the transfer case fluid, thats easy enough with a (10mm?) hex just always undo top plug and stick your finger in and it should be right at the top fill hole. If you havent done it before this is one of the easiest fluids to change on your Jeep, maybe even easier than oil. If you're doing fluids and stuff ask mom if shes got an old turkey baster and baste out power steering fluid and refill with fresh. Put cap back on start Jeep and do a full lock to lock steering sweep then check fluid and do it again. Other than that make sure your blinker fluid is topped off

Quote:
Originally Posted by alwaysHI View Post
350 for a-arm??.....buy the IRO adjustable one and put it in for 300 bones!!!!
Amen brotha
Quote:
Originally Posted by smunns View Post
Does he include a complimentary bottle of anal lube? Seriously. I changed my transmission mount recently and it took 15 minutes. $40 part. Motor mounts aren't that hard or expensive either. And those a-arm bushings are available separately. $8-$13 each on Rock Auto.
I agree with the mounts but I hear the a-arm bushings are a royal pain in the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by straty1987 View Post
well i dont think lifting the jeep is the best idea if you need some fixes right now

1. $220 is not bad if its parts n labor, just look at how much it will cost at autozone or napa around $40 for a rotor and $20 for a pair of pads. there not hard to do yourself and if you get pads at autozone they have a lifetime warranty so just get a new set if they wear or go bad. i used the autozone pads and rotors n teh jeep and a car n been good used the warranty a few times which helped. 8K max life sounds like a few months of driving so you might be able to hold off for some time.

2. $400 sounds like allot but it dose take time to do right. maybe see about getting the parts off rock auto n pay for labor. make sure if you start getting sounds or vibes to not hold of since could break something else if the mount gives. dad car had a bad front mount and the car shock like crazy when at a red light due to a worn out bushings. part cost $16 off rock auto and $40 at my local mechanic to install.

3. if this is true you might get a DW with a lift on

4. PCV valves is simple and cheap on the v8 but am not sure on the i6, did rear this http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...4-0-a-1219386/ so should be able to do it yourself.

any idea on were he gets his parts or rate per hour?
might be able to see if he can go down a bit in prices
if you have space n friend at school might want to make a project out of it
1. Its really not bad to do yourself, I do reccomend Napa rotors over duralast or "wearever" or whatever they have at AAP. I would have him pull his wheel off himself and physically look at the pads so he gets an idea of how worn they are, mechanics usually make very liberal estimations.
2. I'd be most concerned about broken engine mounts... maybe take a picture of each and post it up so we can decide how bad they look?
3. You shouldnt have any DW problem with the rear end like that, most DW in WJs is caused by worn front suspension. Even with bad bushings and a completely toasted rear ball joint I'm at 3" and she cruises down the highway in a perfectly straight line hands off the wheel even at 80.


Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
He is at a dealer and using all mopar parts...

The engine and transmission mounts are out of my experience that I currently feel comfortable doing. I trust this guy to do stuff right. He may work at a dealer but does what he can to help me out. He is a good family friend.

I agree that when I get around to doing the a-arm I will probably just go the IRO a-arm route cause I do plan on doing that lift eventually. That 350 was for a whole new arm, new ball joint and also the labor.

The PCV valves are done. I have heard of them cracking and then getting into the valves. So I just let him deal with all of that.
1. Look em up, lemme know if you need stuff from the FSM the job is not bad at all
2. If you're sticking under 3.5" the factory arm is honestly fine and can be had for $120+$30 or so for the ball joint and done yourself in a couple of hours with a jack and some jackstands and some big frickin wrenches.
3. Awww, they dont crack often and usually you can pull the pieces out if they do, worst case scenario you get to pull the 12 or so bolts and just lift the valve cover off, lets you check out the upper internals of your engine too, which is nice just to see how clean everything is and if anything is loose/wearing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
Alright so I talked to him again. I am going to get the engine/transmissible mounts replaced for around 300. Looked up the parts and it was about 150 for parts for non-mopar parts.

I am going to wait on all the rear a arm stuff. I am going to look into the IRO rear a arm but it says it only works for 2 to 7 inches of lift... I guess that will have to be after the lift....
1. $300 isnt bad, I really think you were being marked up on the price before though. Seriously though take some pics of your mounts they cant be too bad. At 115k mine look brand new but my grandma wasnt much of a spirited driver with mine so that could attribute to it. Your motor mounts will help fix your vibes most likely but even based on your videos I think you're comparing it to newer modern designed engines. Sitting in a 4.7 WJ you'd never even know its running with the windows closed. Sitting in a 5.7 Hemi WK you have to open the window to notice it at all. The 4.0 however likes to shake around and vibrate and make its presence known, its an old engine design in a new car, thats why they did off with it in the new wranglers and replaced it with the quieter more subtle V6s.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alwaysHI View Post
perfect! you'll be in there anyway when you do the lift so it'll definitely feel like a brand new jeep!
Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
I think this whole situation while crappy, will all work out. The engine mounts and transmission mounts I can deal with for 300 or so dollars. I do not feel comfortable doing that myself. So I am happy to pay a friend who I trust to do it right.

Then when the lift goes in, I will have a reason to get that fancy adjustable a-arm from IRO!!

Then thankfully the brakes are not shot and I can wait on those. I will probably go with Kolak and his Stillen Rotors and those will probably be done by the time summer rolls around.

So all in all not to bad
Engine mounts are mehh but transmission mounts, I'd be surprised if you could screw that up lol. I'm sticking with the factory rear arm just with new HD ball joint from moog and maybe a spacer because that way I dont have to deal with getting a rear allignment. Its good for hardcore wheelers but I dont think I'll ever need what it has to offer.

Go with a nice set of pads and rotors if you can, if you're afraid of doing them yourself just lemme know I have a picture by picture ready to post if people are interested, I think I actually may have posted when I did the rears in my build thread, same principle. If you dont wanna do yourself at least get the pads and rotors you like and have a mechanic put on your parts.

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2888 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
1. Napa Premium Rotors for $30 each and Wagner Thermoquiet Pads for $50. Will beat whatever Mopar parts are going on. Nice fun project to do yourself I have a picture by picture for em if you're interested I'll post em up with instructions for ya.
2. Support drivetrain and unbolt the like 4 bolts for the crossmember and lower it down, replace tranny mount easy peasy lemon squeezy. Engine mounts are a little more complicated because of tight spaces but nonetheless doable same principle support the engine by the oil pan with a block of wood and change mounts out one at a time.
3. If the bushings are indeed shot its possible to press new ones in but practical to just buy a new arm because usually you destroy the arm trying to get the old ones out. Team grand cherokee has them with bushings installed for like $120. For $300 I'd get an IRO arm and install yourself. I got a heavy duty moog ball joint for $30 for mine and thats not a big deal to do if you jack up and support the frame and let the axle droop down. A good couple hours of work and ratcheting wrenches very useful. I wouldnt be direly worried about getting it done I'd wait till you're doing the lift mines been making noise for 10k miles now and been through all sorts of lift angles and flexing and spirited driving and it still just makes noises. It takes a lot to actually blow one just take it easy on the rear end till you get it done.
4.I wouldnt pay someone to do this, buy new ones at auto stores for pocket change and literally they're just in rubber grommets on the top of the valve cover just give them a nice firm pull and they'll pop right out. Dont be afraid to give them some force. They shouldnt break but even if they do dont panic just dont start the Jeep and come back here for advice, worst thing you'd have to do is pull the valve cover.
5.
6. Bet he didnt check the transfer case fluid, thats easy enough with a (10mm?) hex just always undo top plug and stick your finger in and it should be right at the top fill hole. If you havent done it before this is one of the easiest fluids to change on your Jeep, maybe even easier than oil. If you're doing fluids and stuff ask mom if shes got an old turkey baster and baste out power steering fluid and refill with fresh. Put cap back on start Jeep and do a full lock to lock steering sweep then check fluid and do it again. Other than that make sure your blinker fluid is topped off
1. I really liked the Stillen Rotors and Pads that Kolak had to offer and we/I will cross that bridge later down the road. Probably when the semester is out in May.
2. Haha, While that sounds all good and nice on paper (well computer screen) I think I am gonna leave that to him. I don't have a lift which would make it so much easier.
3. I wondered why he said to replace the whole a-arm. I did not know that it would end up destroying the bushings in the process of fitting the new ones in. Again, later down the road when I can afford to replace this. I will figure I will most likely go the OEM a-arm and a moog ball joint. That should suffice for a 2 or 3 inch lift.
4. I figured while it was in there he might as well replace it. I know I could probably do it myself but whatever haha.
6. I changed the transfer case fluid and the diff fluid with my dad just recently so I told him not to worry about those!

Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
I agree with the mounts but I hear the a-arm bushings are a royal pain in the rear.

1. Its really not bad to do yourself, I do reccomend Napa rotors over duralast or "wearever" or whatever they have at AAP. I would have him pull his wheel off himself and physically look at the pads so he gets an idea of how worn they are, mechanics usually make very liberal estimations.
2. I'd be most concerned about broken engine mounts... maybe take a picture of each and post it up so we can decide how bad they look?
3. You shouldnt have any DW problem with the rear end like that, most DW in WJs is caused by worn front suspension. Even with bad bushings and a completely toasted rear ball joint I'm at 3" and she cruises down the highway in a perfectly straight line hands off the wheel even at 80.
Yeah everyone keeps saying that the rear a-arm is just a pain to work on all together

The engine mounts did kind of scare me when he said they were bad. I am not sure how to get a camera in there... What do you want me to take a picture of?


Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
1. $300 isnt bad, I really think you were being marked up on the price before though. Seriously though take some pics of your mounts they cant be too bad. At 115k mine look brand new but my grandma wasnt much of a spirited driver with mine so that could attribute to it. Your motor mounts will help fix your vibes most likely but even based on your videos I think you're comparing it to newer modern designed engines. Sitting in a 4.7 WJ you'd never even know its running with the windows closed. Sitting in a 5.7 Hemi WK you have to open the window to notice it at all. The 4.0 however likes to shake around and vibrate and make its presence known, its an old engine design in a new car, thats why they did off with it in the new wranglers and replaced it with the quieter more subtle V6s.
I am happy honestly with around 300, cause that is more then I want to tackle myself and parts are 150 and those are not even mopar parts. I looked them up on rock auto. Ive floored the sheeeet out of the WJ so many times. I have to say that I am hard on her.

The new mounts can only help. But you are right, I am trying to compare it to a modern engine that runs like melted butter smooth. Where you can not even feel it when it is running. It really isnt the I6 design as much as the technology. My mom's 2007 3-Series BMW has a straight 6 and runs sooo smooth (and is STUPID fast compared to the Jeep)

Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
Engine mounts are mehh but transmission mounts, I'd be surprised if you could screw that up lol. I'm sticking with the factory rear arm just with new HD ball joint from moog and maybe a spacer because that way I dont have to deal with getting a rear allignment. Its good for hardcore wheelers but I dont think I'll ever need what it has to offer.

Go with a nice set of pads and rotors if you can, if you're afraid of doing them yourself just lemme know I have a picture by picture ready to post if people are interested, I think I actually may have posted when I did the rears in my build thread, same principle. If you dont wanna do yourself at least get the pads and rotors you like and have a mechanic put on your parts.
I will take you up on those pictures and write ups if I do brakes myself down the road!

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2889 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 09:35 PM
compcrasher86
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Location: Marblehead, MA
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yeah BMW i6 so much more refined and overall totally different than the WJ... her BMW is a dual overhead cam design whereas your i6 is a single cam design. I also bet hers has multiple spark plugs per cylinder to ensure complete and smooth ignition as do most modern engines. Your i6 is the same foundation as the older ones and its just a worn design run off of simple technology. The fuel injection system is simple and the ignition is even simpler. No fancy variable valve timing or anything like that just straight up engine that runs. It should also tell you something when her 3.0L i6 puts out 230hp and your Jeep only puts out 200 with 4.0L

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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post #2890 of 6774 Old 01-10-2012, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
snobrdrkid07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
yeah BMW i6 so much more refined and overall totally different than the WJ... her BMW is a dual overhead cam design whereas your i6 is a single cam design. I also bet hers has multiple spark plugs per cylinder to ensure complete and smooth ignition as do most modern engines. Your i6 is the same foundation as the older ones and its just a worn design run off of simple technology. The fuel injection system is simple and the ignition is even simpler. No fancy variable valve timing or anything like that just straight up engine that runs. It should also tell you something when her 3.0L i6 puts out 230hp and your Jeep only puts out 200 with 4.0L
Yeah I need to just do a swap her engine with my engine.

I want fancy!

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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-Michael-
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post #2891 of 6774 Old 01-11-2012, 07:47 AM
mrJ
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Should be 160-180 for rotors and around 60-80 for pads. Prob little under $300. Ultimax rotors and green stuff organic pads. Serious quality and not crazy expensive.

Build In Progress...
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It's a Jeep, it's not supposed to work right all the time.

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post #2892 of 6774 Old 01-11-2012, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
snobrdrkid07
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Should be 160-180 for rotors and around 60-80 for pads. Prob little under $300. Ultimax rotors and green stuff organic pads. Serious quality and not crazy expensive.
That sounds really nice! Haha. I am sure we will all have another brake discussion over here when it comes down to the time to order new stuff.

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2893 of 6774 Old 01-11-2012, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Called my mechanic/friend back. This is some more info that I did not realize on the phone previously.

Here is what is going to be done today:
1. Just going to replace the PCV Valves
2. Running the Mopar engine cleaner through it.

Like I said, I called back and asked why it was so much for the engine and transmission mount. He said that the two engine mounts themselves were pretty dang close to 200 bucks then the transmission mount was about 80. The we wanted like 50 or 60 for labor on that. So that is why that was around 350 bucks. Which makes sense, it is all dealer/Mopar mounts. HOWEVER, he said they were cracked and can be replaced, but do not NEED to be replaced at the moment. Since I need my Jeep for the next few days to get ready to go back to school and really dont have the cash, I am going to wait to do those over the summer.

Again with the rear a-arm, bushings were bad but not in DIRE NEED of replacement. Same pretty much goes for this as was said above. Will decide on what to do with this later down the road.

As for brakes, I expect them to be replaced in the next 5 or 10 thousand miles, that sound put me around the time of summer again. We can all have a nice discussion on what to get and see if I can't do them myself.

Thank you all for your input on everything, really makes me see all the options and find the best/least expensive thing to do!

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2894 of 6774 Old 01-11-2012, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Got my HID's in FINALLY, I of course do not have the Jeep back yet... haha.

Need some ideas on where to mount the ballasts for the fog lights... ROFL

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600ís | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100ís | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2895 of 6774 Old 01-11-2012, 02:06 PM
compcrasher86
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money you shoulda just spent on a nice set of long range offroad lights then upgraded them to 100w bulbs and wiring I used to think HIDs were the shiznit and then I decided that unless they come factory they're a pain in the butt and never work right. Also most HID setups from the factory now come with auto leveling systems to comply with regulations and so they dont blind oncoming drivers as they go over bumps and hills and such. What temperature bulb did you get for your fogs, if its 4500 or higher its useless for fog. Notice how some people have yellowish looking fog lights? its like that for a reason. Also did you get HID-ready housings? Otherwise the length difference of the bulb is gunna negate any optics that the factory fog lights had (as if the 04 switch to round style with clear lenses didnt do that already) and reflect off the fog into your eyes and blind other drivers.

Heres an example of 4300k HID fog lights in the rain, notice how useless they are?

Now in dry conditions


for things like fog lights you dont want lights that will die off with weather conditions

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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