Alright, so my mechanic called back and here is the rundown:
1. Brakes have about 5 or 8 thousand miles on the front rotor/pads - 220 (going to wait a little on those)
2. The engine and transmission mounts are cracked/shot - 400 for parts and labor
3. The rear a-arm bushings on the frame are shot and the he suggested to do the ball joint at the same time. He said the whole a-arm needs replaced because the bushings on the frame side only come with a new arm, then the ball joint is seperate - 350 for new a-arm, ball joint, and labor
4. Replacing both the PCV valves - 40 bucks parts and labor
5. He test drove and said everything else looked good - check
6. Checked all the fluids and were good. - check
Called dad and was pissed and didn't want to do any of that excpect the PCV valves...
what do you all think?
1. Napa Premium Rotors for $30 each and Wagner Thermoquiet Pads for $50. Will beat whatever Mopar parts are going on. Nice fun project to do yourself I have a picture by picture for em if you're interested I'll post em up with instructions for ya.
2. Support drivetrain and unbolt the like 4 bolts for the crossmember and lower it down, replace tranny mount easy peasy lemon squeezy. Engine mounts are a little more complicated because of tight spaces but nonetheless doable same principle support the engine by the oil pan with a block of wood and change mounts out one at a time.
3. If the bushings are indeed shot its possible to press new ones in but practical to just buy a new arm because usually you destroy the arm trying to get the old ones out. Team grand cherokee has them with bushings installed for like $120. For $300 I'd get an IRO arm and install yourself. I got a heavy duty moog ball joint for $30 for mine and thats not a big deal to do if you jack up and support the frame and let the axle droop down. A good couple hours of work and ratcheting wrenches very useful. I wouldnt be direly worried about getting it done I'd wait till you're doing the lift mines been making noise for 10k miles now and been through all sorts of lift angles and flexing and spirited driving and it still just makes noises. It takes a lot to actually blow one just take it easy on the rear end till you get it done.
4.I wouldnt pay someone to do this, buy new ones at auto stores for pocket change and literally they're just in rubber grommets on the top of the valve cover just give them a nice firm pull and they'll pop right out. Dont be afraid to give them some force. They shouldnt break but even if they do dont panic just dont start the Jeep and come back here for advice, worst thing you'd have to do is pull the valve cover.
6. Bet he didnt check the transfer case fluid, thats easy enough with a (10mm?) hex just always undo top plug and stick your finger in and it should be right at the top fill hole. If you havent done it before this is one of the easiest fluids to change on your Jeep, maybe even easier than oil. If you're doing fluids and stuff ask mom if shes got an old turkey baster and baste out power steering fluid and refill with fresh. Put cap back on start Jeep and do a full lock to lock steering sweep then check fluid and do it again. Other than that make sure your blinker fluid is topped off
350 for a-arm??.....buy the IRO adjustable one and put it in for 300 bones!!!!
Does he include a complimentary bottle of anal lube? Seriously. I changed my transmission mount recently and it took 15 minutes. $40 part. Motor mounts aren't that hard or expensive either. And those a-arm bushings are available separately. $8-$13 each on Rock Auto.
I agree with the mounts but I hear the a-arm bushings are a royal pain in the rear.
well i dont think lifting the jeep is the best idea if you need some fixes right now
1. $220 is not bad if its parts n labor, just look at how much it will cost at autozone or napa around $40 for a rotor and $20 for a pair of pads. there not hard to do yourself and if you get pads at autozone they have a lifetime warranty so just get a new set if they wear or go bad. i used the autozone pads and rotors n teh jeep and a car n been good used the warranty a few times which helped. 8K max life sounds like a few months of driving so you might be able to hold off for some time.
2. $400 sounds like allot but it dose take time to do right. maybe see about getting the parts off rock auto n pay for labor. make sure if you start getting sounds or vibes to not hold of since could break something else if the mount gives. dad car had a bad front mount and the car shock like crazy when at a red light due to a worn out bushings. part cost $16 off rock auto and $40 at my local mechanic to install.
3. if this is true you might get a DW with a lift on
4. PCV valves is simple and cheap on the v8 but am not sure on the i6, did rear this http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...4-0-a-1219386/
so should be able to do it yourself.
any idea on were he gets his parts or rate per hour?
might be able to see if he can go down a bit in prices
if you have space n friend at school might want to make a project out of it
1. Its really not bad to do yourself, I do reccomend Napa rotors over duralast or "wearever" or whatever they have at AAP. I would have him pull his wheel off himself and physically look at the pads so he gets an idea of how worn they are, mechanics usually make very liberal estimations.
2. I'd be most concerned about broken engine mounts... maybe take a picture of each and post it up so we can decide how bad they look?
3. You shouldnt have any DW problem with the rear end like that, most DW in WJs is caused by worn front suspension. Even with bad bushings and a completely toasted rear ball joint I'm at 3" and she cruises down the highway in a perfectly straight line hands off the wheel even at 80.
He is at a dealer and using all mopar parts...
The engine and transmission mounts are out of my experience that I currently feel comfortable doing. I trust this guy to do stuff right. He may work at a dealer but does what he can to help me out. He is a good family friend.
I agree that when I get around to doing the a-arm I will probably just go the IRO a-arm route cause I do plan on doing that lift eventually. That 350 was for a whole new arm, new ball joint and also the labor.
The PCV valves are done. I have heard of them cracking and then getting into the valves. So I just let him deal with all of that.
1. Look em up, lemme know if you need stuff from the FSM the job is not bad at all
2. If you're sticking under 3.5" the factory arm is honestly fine and can be had for $120+$30 or so for the ball joint and done yourself in a couple of hours with a jack and some jackstands and some big frickin wrenches.
3. Awww, they dont crack often and usually you can pull the pieces out if they do, worst case scenario you get to pull the 12 or so bolts and just lift the valve cover off, lets you check out the upper internals of your engine too, which is nice just to see how clean everything is and if anything is loose/wearing.
Alright so I talked to him again. I am going to get the engine/transmissible mounts replaced for around 300. Looked up the parts and it was about 150 for parts for non-mopar parts.
I am going to wait on all the rear a arm stuff. I am going to look into the IRO rear a arm but it says it only works for 2 to 7 inches of lift... I guess that will have to be after the lift....
1. $300 isnt bad, I really think you were being marked up on the price before though. Seriously though take some pics of your mounts they cant be too bad. At 115k mine look brand new but my grandma wasnt much of a spirited driver with mine so that could attribute to it. Your motor mounts will help fix your vibes most likely but even based on your videos I think you're comparing it to newer modern designed engines. Sitting in a 4.7 WJ you'd never even know its running with the windows closed. Sitting in a 5.7 Hemi WK you have to open the window to notice it at all. The 4.0 however likes to shake around and vibrate and make its presence known, its an old engine design in a new car, thats why they did off with it in the new wranglers and replaced it with the quieter more subtle V6s.
perfect! you'll be in there anyway when you do the lift so it'll definitely feel like a brand new jeep!
I think this whole situation while crappy, will all work out. The engine mounts and transmission mounts I can deal with for 300 or so dollars. I do not feel comfortable doing that myself. So I am happy to pay a friend who I trust to do it right.
Then when the lift goes in, I will have a reason to get that fancy adjustable a-arm from IRO!!
Then thankfully the brakes are not shot and I can wait on those. I will probably go with Kolak and his Stillen Rotors and those will probably be done by the time summer rolls around.
So all in all not to bad
Engine mounts are mehh but transmission mounts, I'd be surprised if you could screw that up lol. I'm sticking with the factory rear arm just with new HD ball joint from moog and maybe a spacer because that way I dont have to deal with getting a rear allignment. Its good for hardcore wheelers but I dont think I'll ever need what it has to offer.
Go with a nice set of pads and rotors if you can, if you're afraid of doing them yourself just lemme know I have a picture by picture ready to post if people are interested, I think I actually may have posted when I did the rears in my build thread, same principle. If you dont wanna do yourself at least get the pads and rotors you like and have a mechanic put on your parts.