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Snobrdrkid's WJ Build Thread

420K views 7K replies 99 participants last post by  snobrdrkid07 
#1 ·
I figured I would start one of these for the fun of it! Unfortunately no lifts yet. But my WJ is at least not bone stock anymore! :D

I will start from the beginning.

The build Sheet
Code:
Sales Code:  ---    Description:
*E7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
-L5 Taupe
ADC Convenience Group
AHT Trailer Tow Group
APAS Monotone Paint
A24P 4.0L Engine(ERH)/4Spd Auto Trans(DGK
BAZS 136 Amp Alternator
BC6S 625 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BRYS Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
CACS Low Back Bucket Seats
CBWS Highline Door Trim Panel
CFNS Rear 60/40 Folding Seat
CGUS Child Seat Anchor System-LATCH Ready
CG1S Next Gen Multistage Front Air Bags**
CKDS Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CLE Front & Rear Floor Mats
CLHS Cargo Trim Panel w/Storage Net
CLPS Door Sill Scuff Pads
CSC Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUDP Mini Overhead Console
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DGBS All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGK 4-Spd. Automatic 42RE Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHPS Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
DJJS Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRMS Dana 35C/194MM Rear Axle
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEGS Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
GEPS Flipper Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNVS Sun Visors w/Vanity Mirror
GTNS Power Mirrors, Fold-Away
GWA Power Sunroof
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
GXXS Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
HAAS Air Conditioning
HGAS Hood Insulation
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
I38S Route 38 - UP, Mesquite, TX
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JKAS Locking Glove Box
JKPS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JKYS Power Accessory Delay
JPBS Power Locks
JPDS Power Windows, Driver One-Touch
JPSS Power 6-Way Driver Seat
KRSS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KWSS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K4SS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K5SS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LACS Illuminated Entry
LAGS Warning Chime
LAZP Vehicle Information Center
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LCES Rear Courtesy/Reading Lamps
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LETP Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
LMBS Halogen Headlamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
MDAS Front License Plate Bracket
MFTS Body Color Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MT2S Trail Rated Badge
MVCS Jeep Badge
MWES Side Roof Rails
NAS 50 State Emissions
NBGP Federal Tier 2, Bin 9A Emissions
NFPS 20.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHMS Speed Control
PB8 Midnight Blue Pearl Coat
QB8S Midnight Blue Pearl Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RBKS AM/FM Compact Disc Radio w/Chgr Ctrl
RCGS 6 Speakers
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCAS Steering Wheel
SDAS Normal Duty Suspension
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBBS Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TTB P245/70R16 OWL All Terrain Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WDQP 16" Steel Spare Wheel
WDRS 16X7.0 Lux Alum Silver Wheels
WLYC All Steel Wheels
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XFJP Class III Receiver Hitch
XFKP 7 Pin Wiring Harness
XFLP 7 to 4 Pin Wiring Adaptor
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
YGCA 7 Additional Gallons of Gas
ZKFP Spring - Left Front
ZKYP Spring - Left Rear
ZYFP Spring - Right Front
ZYYP Spring - Right Rear
Z6DS GVW/Payload Rating
1AAS U.S. Dealer Retail
135S Zone 35-Washington
2TEA Customer Preferred Package 2TE
26E Customer Preferred Package 26E
3FTA Convenience Group Discount
39BA New Price Tracking
4X7A Virginia Chapter-90 Recovery
5I1S WJ-Vehicle Family
5I4S Four Wheel Drive (4WD)/(4X4)
5I8S Left Hand Drive (LHD)
594S Vehicle Order Tracking
6USS U.S. Specifications Label
647S Virginia Ship to State Code
947S Virginia Sold to State Code
My 2004 Grand Cherokee was bought brand new in 04, It was the family SUV until it was given to me in the Summer of 2010. I have been driving it and loving it ever since!

When I got the Jeep - could not wait to start making it my own
  1. New Steering Stablilzer
  2. 4 Skyjacker Nitro 8000 Gas charged shocks
  3. New tailgate lift struts. (June 2010)
  4. Projector and Halo headlights (Aug 2010)
  5. Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X794 Head Unit (Aug 2010)
  6. Interior white LED's put in. (September 2010)
  7. New Yokohama Geolander All Terrain 245/70/16's (November 2010)
  8. Memphis Coax 3-way 6x9's Fronts and Memphis Coax 2-Way 6.5 Rears. (which are freaking loud) (November 27th 2010)
  9. 55w H1 HID Lights at 6000K Color Temperature (December 1st 2010)
  10. Alpine MRP-M500 amp with Alpine 12" 1223D Dual Voice Coil Subs running at 2-Ohms (500 watts RMS)
  11. Alpine MRX-F30 amp for the doors pushing 75 watts x4 (August 2011)
  12. SuperChips - Flashpack
  13. Painted the bottom part of the bumper to look like an Overland.
  14. Got the Front Windows Tinted
  15. Put on a set of Overland Rims
  16. Electro-Luminescent Overland Gauges

Table of Contents
1. HID's
2. Halo Lights
3. Subs
4. Snow Jan 2011
5. Kenwood Headunit
6. Factory Build Sheet
7. NC Pictures, OBX
8. Fuel Filter Change with Picture
9. Mopar Skid Plate
10. Auto-Dim Mirror
11. Rear 3/4 Inch Spacer Install
12. Front Bumper Painted Silver Strip
13. Yard Work
14. Left for VT
15. Front Drive Shaft
16. Sinking Creek - Potts Run 1
17. Double Din Face Plate
18. Highlights from Callalantee, Mountain City, TN
19. Maintenance Day
20. Hit the 4Runner Pretty Good with the Trailer - Pictures
21. Idle Videos
22. First Look at the OME HD Coils
23. OME HD and JKS Adjustable TB - Pictures
24. Overland Rims 1
25. Gear Oil Change and Differential Pictures
26. Overland Rims on
27. Overland Rims 2
28. Window Tint Pictures
29. Rock Light Switch 1
30. Rock Lights On!
31. Car Show - Jeeps!
32. Ready to go back to Tech
33. Rolled 100,000
34. Overland Gauges Came in
35. Overland Gauges at Night!
36. Mountain Lake Wheeling
37. To-Do List
38. Kickdown Video
39. Snow at VT
40. Another Wheeling Picture
41. Wheeling Aftermath Clean Up and EVIC disassembly
42. Rear Axle Seal Going
43. Cleaned up
44. OME HD Coil Spring Update!!
45. 0-60 Videos
46. Back at VT - Spring 2012
47. K&N Filter Numbers
48. Cold Start Up Video
49. HID's driving
50. Auxiliary Transmission Cooler 1
51. Auxiliary Transmission Cooler Install
52. Copperhead Wheeling Pictures
53. Copperhead Rocks with the WJ
54. Mechanical Fan Hitting the Electric Fan
55. Noob Lift Chart
56. Turbo Encabulator
57. Freedom Roof Rail Teaser
58. Freedom Roof Rails Installed with Pictures
59. Cam Talk
60. Can't Trade in my Jeep
61. City Driving and Acceleration Videos
62. 2/10 Would no Drive - VERY FUNNY
63. OME HD LIFT - FINALLY
64. Trunk LED's
65. Painted Rear D.S.
66. Cleaned Up with the Lift
67. Moog Order - Open boxes
68. Stillen Brakes
69. Moog TRE - Measurements
70. Brakes and Tie Rods Installed
71. Rear 5100's
72. JKS Track Bar Movement 1
73. Air Box Mod
74. 4.0 Wheel Spin
75. Front D.S. Angle :(
76. IRO Control Arm Info
77. Broken U-Joint
78. JKS Track Bar Movement 2
79. AP Run-Down
80. Results from Southern Performance

Pictures:


Current:



 

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7
#5,972 ·
Matt, that is exactly what it is. Right on edge of the slipping it'll make noise. It did that with the OEM Rotors/Pads too. Currently running the Stillen Drilled Rotors and Metal Matrix Pads. Having the brakes bled makes a good difference too!

Chris, I will give that a shot! Thank you!
 
#5,973 ·
I use a different regimen for squeaky brakes.

1) Pull caliper, leave carrier installed.
2) Thoroughly clean all anti-rattle clips, the face of the caliper pistons, and the clamping "forks" of the caliper. You may find that some of the anti-rattle clips have been damaged. Replace them as a set if any are damaged, brake hardware is super-cheap.
3) Clean the pad backing plates
4) Use a file to gently chamfer edges of the pad friction material
5) Apply tiny dab of anti-seize to anti-rattle clips
6) Apply "Disc Brake Quiet" to the piston faces and clamping forks in accordance with directions.
7) Reassemble caliper to carrier.

The whole process is about an hour and might cost upwards of $20 if you have to buy all the chemicals and hardware. I'll clean the rotor, but only to remove whatever I may have spilled or smudged on there. Thoroughly cleaning the rotor will remove the bedded-on pad material which actually improves the cF between pad and rotor.
 
#5,974 ·
I like Richard's answer. :2thumbsup: I didn't think about the brake cleaner removing the bedded material. Forget what I said!

I'm still sticking with the brontosaurus comment though...

:D
 
#5,975 ·
Alright, I have a few questions to follow up.

- The anti-rattle clips have anything to do with holding the pad in place? I vaguely remember of some sort of metal wear indicator that will rub the rotor and squeal when pads are low. I am not sure if those anti-rattle clips you mentioned relate to that wear indicator. I don't think the pads are gone in under 10k miles though, haha.

- They came chamfered if I remember correctly? Don't most?

- I wonder if there is any bedded on materials, I can kinda see some streaking around the drill holes. Not sure if that is built up material or not. I can post a pic later.

Chris, I still like that comment! :D
 
#5,976 ·
The anti-rattle clips are the ones that go between the pad and the carrier. They are the ones that position the pad and damp most of the vibrations. Not the same as the squealers, but they usually all come as one packet of hardware. The clips do wear out since the pad slides back and forth on them every time the brakes are applied.

Pads usually come with a large tapered area. I'm talking about putting a very small, about 1mm chamfer around the whole border of the pad. Just to expose some new pad material on the edges. If the pad is shiny/glazed then clean up the face as well.
 
#5,977 ·
#5,978 ·
You know what, my new rotors and pads did not come with new clips, so I am going to assume they did not get replaced.

Roger on the chamfering all the way around.

:highfive: for the pics!
 
#5,979 ·
I was able to clean the rotors off with some brake clean that a Club Member had. Seemed to have helped as a temp fix to quiet them down a bit. But, nothing that will hinder driving ability obviously. That was all that I could manage time for over the weekend. I would have liked to pulled it apart more and check out the pads, run down that list, check out those clips, etc. I did copy that to my running word doc of procedures and "to-do's".

I just got back from class and a little, well not so little, package was at the door. Turns out the LED Light bar finally came in.


Along with a very quick mock up from the excitement. Ignore messy wiring!


Seems bright, will get night shots as soon as I can.
 
#5,981 ·
It probably wont stay there, don't know where I am going to put it lol.
 
#5,983 ·
I agree! We will see how this one does, maybe a 18-24 inch for under the license plate ;D
 
#5,986 ·
Looks what I found on sale... Tire Rack 190 a tire for 245/70-17 plus Mail In Rebate! That'd bring them under 700 for 4. If all goes well, I'm going to order them. I think I will stick with 31's and don't need to go to 255/70-17's
 
#5,987 ·
That's not too bad! What are you going to do about a spare?
 
#5,988 ·
Going to just put the stock size in there... in a bind I could use it to get me out. Otherwise if I get a hole one, I'll patch it or call AAA.

I'm tossing around the 255/70. But wider isn't going to help with fuel economy...
 
#5,989 ·
I did the same for the spare though when I go up in size, I'll be buying 5 matching tires.

I wouldn't go wider. Even for off road, there isn't much benefit unless you're in extreme situations...
 
#5,990 ·
Well I made it back from VT to home for the week and I really do not have much to whine/complain about! :eek: But, actually, I don't! haha. The Jeep gave me a lot less issues, shimmy was still there but less overall. I am guessing the speed was a factor... ran 60-65 instead of 80. Averaged about 21 mpg because of the slower speed too, I am impressed there. We were on a nasty stretch of road and it took most of the bumps well and just rolled over them, others it shimmied some. But no were near as gut wrenching bad as before, only thing that changed was speed. I also just kinda cranked the music and just ignore it a little too. :p

My game plan for the next few days:

- Pull the Rouge's out of storage and throw them on there and see what a different set of tires does. Always been meaning to do this, and we will see how much is really my Yokohama's. The Rouge's have worn tires too, but I did not have any issues with them when I ran them stock... Worse comes to worse, the rouge rims ride better, and I can not get the tires, I will just run them and leave the Yokohama's here. (Mom got a nail in here BMW's tires, and of course they are run flats, and of course they are all getting low on tread. So my birthday tire's may be deferred)

- Find out what is clunking up front now. I am pretty sure it is not the track bar. (This time, lol) I can go forward or reverse and hit the brakes pretty good and hear a clunk/ping either when coming to a stop, or unloading them when I let off the brakes. Since its a forward/back movement I am thinking CA's. I would not be surprised if the uppers are destroyed. Never "un-loaded" them from the lift and running huge caster probably stressed them more. So I hope to drop those UCA's and see what is up. Tossing between factory UCA replacements (whole arm with bushings) or IRO Adj Uppers. I would not doubt that the IRO's would be cheaper. What do would you all bet on or go with? (I did just tighten my lowers too... hmm.) I'll bet if the uppers are toast, that isn't helping the shimmy situation.

- Find the tools to do the track bar bolt upgrade

- Wire brush the inside of the Rouge Rims and paint them black, polish the outside chrome.

Mini Wheeling Trip Report:
Went to Windrock TN OHV Park with the Jeep club and had a great time up there. (Although I left my WJ at home for this trip!) :eek:

Should be a fun spring break!
:cheers:
 
#5,991 ·
It's spring break already!?!

Personally, I'd go with IRO adjustable arms but that's just me. I'd rather upgrade for a few bucks more than replace with factory parts. That being said, more adjust-ability could mean more tweaking here and there until it's "just right"...
 
#5,992 ·
Yup, spring break! Other colleges had theirs last week and some next week.

I really don't want to have to press bushings into my current arms. I guess IRO would be the way to go. Hoping the axle uppers are not crap, because I'm not even touching those.
 
#5,993 ·
I really don't want to have to press bushings into my current arms. I guess IRO would be the way to go.
True. It would be an easier task compared to pressing bushings...

Hoping the axle uppers are not crap, because I'm not even touching those.
You could always burn them out.....

:shhh:
 
#5,995 ·
I think Greg said at one point its usually the axle end bushing that gets destroyed the worst. At your mileage I'd replace it without questioning it, seeing as you can have both for under $20. Yes the old bushings need to be pressed out of the axle. I'm sure the ball joint press I rented from vautozone would make short work of of them though. I was gritting my teeth for a while over the whole pressed components thing, then once I got a good tool on the Job I laughed at how silly easy it was.
 
#5,996 ·
Are they solid rubber in there? No Voids? Also we tried the Ball Joint Remover kit on the Rubicon Front axle uppers and it was still a PIA... maybe the WJ is better? D44 compared to a D30?

I am hoping to get with a buddy and pull the front uppers.

I also realized that state inspection is due this month... dang it!
 
#5,998 ·
We had an air hammer for the Rubicon, didnt help. The air hammer pushed the metal sleeve out and then tried chiseling the rubber, didn't work. Ended up having to cut and collapse the metal outer shell to get it out. Massive pain. Maybe we just had bad luck.
 
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