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05-30-2012, 11:05 AM
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#1
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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The Second Coming: Eric's New ZJ Build
Its time to get a build thread going for my new rig. I'm starting to get nervous that I will be rigless for the whole season so hopefully this will create some extra motiviation.
All I am basically doing is swapping everything from my '96 ZJ which has a rusted unibody and 260k on the engine to a '98 ZJ with only 130k and a near mint condition unibody. Along the way I need to replace a few parts and tweak a few aspects from the previous build. Sounds easy, right?
Here's a picture from the last time my old rig was on the trail back in February and a picture of the final resting place  :
Here's a couple pictures of my new rig:
Let the misery begin!
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05-30-2012, 11:05 AM
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#2
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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I'll be swapping over the entire suspension including axles, control arms, springs, shocks, track bar, and limit straps. Cutting the old suspension brackets off and reusing them would be too much of a PITA so I cruised down to Clayton's shop and picked up some new brackets:
I got 2+ seasons from the Moog ball joints before the uppers started to get sloppy. This year I will be giving the new Synergy Suspension ball joints a shot. I also need to rotate the rear spring perches about 10 degrees and will replace the front axle u-joints as a preventive measure:
Raw materials for my new rocker sliders and front bumper winch guard:
Stripping down the old rig starting with the bumpers and front suspension:
The radius arms do a number on the passenger side upper control arm bushing. I'm running a Johnny joint on the driver side upper but keep the rubber bushing on the passenger side in order to prevent too much binding:
Oops. What's wrong with this picture? I will have to adjust the front control arms a bit shorter in order to keep the Johnny joints from bending again. This kind of sucks because because the arms are already as short as I wanted. I wish the tubes were an inch longer.
Cleaned up front suspension parts and gave them a fresh coat of paint. Installed the new ball joints. U-joints are still work in progress:
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05-30-2012, 11:06 AM
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#3
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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05-30-2012, 11:07 AM
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#4
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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I was hoping to install the front bumper last weekend. Part of the job is relocating the evap cannister which hangs too low. Accessing the evap cannister requires removal of the lights, grille, and header panel which went fine.
The bumper bolts on where the factory tow hooks are bolted on and this is where the job went bad. In principle, removing the tow hooks is a 2 minute job with an impact wrench. Of course all 8 of the bolts were frozen and the impact wrench was only able snap 2 of them. I had to torch off the heads of the other 6 which sucked because they were hard to access. And of course its not good enough to cut the heads because the ends of the bolts stick out and won't allow the backing plate to fit through the frame as shown in the picture below. Now I need to use the Sawall to trim the bolts. And this is where I called it a day.
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05-30-2012, 11:28 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: upland, ca
Posts: 1,418
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Yeah swapping everything over sounds simple enough, but my back is sore just reading this haha
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05-30-2012, 12:27 PM
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#6
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 4,066
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Nice build going on
Some of the above pics show why I wouldn't really care running radius arms anymore if I were to go long-arms. I did have T&T Customs Y-links on my XJ and loved them for the most part, but boy do they cause a lot of stress on some of the suspension parts  Since you're using a standard johnny joint on the other upper, have you given any thought that you would modify the passenger side upper link tower for ie. 1/2" or 9/16" thru-bolt and use a single upper to get rid of the binding to run a "3-link" radius arm system in the front? With a 1/2" or especially 9/16" bolt you wouldn't need to worry about the bolt snapping, and you could carry the extra upper as a spare
Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead
I've started building the new rocker sliders. The previous design used 4"x4" tubing. This time I am using 3" x 5" tubing and slightly bigger steps so that they stick out an extra 1 1/2". Elias 4x4 did a perfect job bending the tubing to my specification

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Looking at the pictures of your old ZJ the box steel rockers seem to be bolted on.. or is just because of the size of box steel (4" x 4") used on the old ones that the rockers hang so damn low? With the 3" x 5" tubing I'm pretty sure you could get similar results I did on my ZJ. I used 2" x 4" welded to a 2" x 2" box steel + 1.75" OD tubes for rocker replacement. I cut the rockers about 3/4" below front doors - bottom of rockers hang only about 1/2" lower than floor level which IMO is pretty much perfect.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/
1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***
***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/h...ternal-973910/
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05-30-2012, 02:13 PM
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#7
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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With the bushing blown out like that I was for all practical purposes already running a "3 link" radius arm design. Clayton also suggested switching to a 1/2" or 9/16" bolt. For now I just want the damn thing running and will replace the bushing more often.
The old rockers were welded directly to the pillars. Zero bolts. The new rockers will be attached exactly the same way.
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05-30-2012, 02:34 PM
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#8
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 4,066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead
With the bushing blown out like that I was for all practical purposes already running a "3 link" radius arm design. Clayton also suggested switching to a 1/2" or 9/16" bolt. For now I just want the damn thing running and will replace the bushing more often.
The old rockers were welded directly to the pillars. Zero bolts. The new rockers will be attached exactly the same way.
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Ok, that's what I thought.. it was the size of the old rockers that fooled me a little. Welding is the only way to do it right
I hear you on getting the damn thing running, I've had my ZJ on axle stands since February  I need to get wheeling before my head explodes
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/
1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***
***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/h...ternal-973910/
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06-15-2012, 08:24 PM
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#9
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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06-15-2012, 08:26 PM
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#10
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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I pulled the trigger on the suspension install earlier today:
Here is why its good to tear the suspension down for inspection every now and then. A crack was starting to form in the track bar bracket. A big reason why is because it was only welded together from the outside:
Fixed:
Relocating the rear spring buckets:
Barring disaster things should move fast now. My goal is to get the rear axle mounted tomorrow and then the front axle Sunday.
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06-15-2012, 09:15 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hanover, MA
Posts: 770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead
I pulled the trigger on the suspension install earlier today:
Here is why its good to tear the suspension down for inspection every now and then. A crack was starting to form in the track bar bracket. A big reason why is because it was only welded together from the outside:
Fixed:
Relocating the rear spring buckets:
Barring disaster things should move fast now. My goal is to get the rear axle mounted tomorrow and then the front axle Sunday.
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this is looking real good. are the claytons brackets weld in? im thinking of geting the brackets and just making the arms myself at work. are you using the stock tie rods or something stronger?
__________________
Bob
'94 ZJ
5.2L
IRO 4.5" Lift
35x12.5 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ's
98 5.9
Restored and daily driven
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06-16-2012, 04:42 AM
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#12
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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Yes, the brackets are welded to the unibody.
I am running the Currie CurrectLync steering system.
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06-30-2012, 05:24 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sudbury, MA
Posts: 1,271
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Looking good Eric, now hurry up so you can hit some trails this summer! You planning on going to Fall Crawl?
Also, are you still interested in the AEV's I have? Shoot me a PM if you are.
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06-30-2012, 10:35 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Flint, Michigan
Posts: 2,060
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is that a Rubicon express bracket?
__________________
3.5 re lift, double sheer front tb, 31" wrangler duratecs
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07-01-2012, 03:08 AM
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#15
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Old school
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 5,337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTeunuch
Looking good Eric, now hurry up so you can hit some trails this summer! You planning on going to Fall Crawl?
Also, are you still interested in the AEV's I have? Shoot me a PM if you are.
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I'll be at Fall Crawl. Trail 6. Assuming I have a rig by then. Definitely still interested in the wheels. Need to do some math before sending a PM.
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