SAR ZJ build thread- yota axles, clayton long arms 5 speed and more - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-08-2014, 07:28 AM   #31
sdmayhew
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: placerville, ca
Posts: 255
Spent almost two hours getting the big joint to move. Having to use a 2 foot pipe wrench with a 1 foot extension and get maybe 1/8 turn at a time. Using both arms and all my body weight.

Threads are rusty! using torch on arm side nut, PB blaster on threads afterwards its slow going. I did get the joint moved about 3/4". THen I started flexing it out, and that seemed to gain a bunch more space. I need to actually pull the spring and fully flex it out. At the moment it looks like 3/4 inch forward might be enough. Right now their is about 3.5 inches of thread showing. So if joint is 6 inches long I am good. Greg .frobot. Has same age of arms as me and said he had 6.5 inches of thread.

My vise is not anchored well enough for me to pull the link off and just use a pipe wrench with a 4 foot extension on pipe wrench. Maybe I will call Greg at frobot fab and see if his vise is anchored well enough.

The tie road and drag link swing look good right now. However, that is only with stocking steering. Have to see what happens when I put in the bigger 1.5 inch drag link along with bigger tie rod

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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-11-2014, 11:10 AM   #32
sdmayhew
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put it up for sale after driving 5.9 andy niner. if it sells so be it, if not keep work on on it

also going to king of hammers as a race volunteer. so if all goes well will drive jeep to Johnson valley =)

also bought new control arm bushings as the existing ones are shot. putting them on today
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-12-2014, 09:41 AM   #33
sdmayhew
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Location: placerville, ca
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I can't emphasis enough good documentation when you doing a build.

Yesterday when I pulled the upper control arm axle side bushings off. I discovered the top axle side busing was a rubicon express super ride bushing not the stock k316 moog part number. So i need to update my build book

Will order that Monday. Then I think today's task is going to be pulling the lower long arms to see how bad the bushing is n the lower long arm axle side. Should be the clevite bushing that clayton sells but you never know.

Also bought the trail gear breather bellows for the front axle. Will throw that on today.

Once I have everything ordered then I can go finish up the new steering setup. Still trying to decide if I should get the 1 TRE or not. That will depend on mock up today.

I am also thinking about lowering the front shocks in their mounts. I will need to do limit straps at the same time. It looks like that the shocks have about 3 inches of up travel that they have never used. S I could get more droop if I lower the upper shock mounts.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-12-2014, 09:55 PM   #34
sdmayhew
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getting stuff done

installed the little breather tube bellows - looks like it might hit the oil pan - will flex it and see later on

Dropped the lower arms and pressed out the clevite bushings- will order new ones tomorrow, plus order the upper control arm bushings.

Started mocking up the big drag link - measured and cut the big drag link. fitted the tube inserts and heims. fits good! had to do a little grinding on the sway bar mount on drivers side to clear the 1.5 inch tube. Then started grinding on the passenger side a little bit. Not a lot as I dont want to get into the track mount too much.

I did test the 1 ton TRE to see what happens when it is installed. It moves the drag link up about 3/4 inch which is enough to move it into the panhard bar bracket. Which means I would have to redo that also if I want to go to TRE's. Moving the Panhard bar mount and redoing the panhard bar is something I would prefer not to do at the present time. I am fine with Heim joints as I really dont drive it very much on the street. Pretty much drive to trails and back. Maybe a occasion local long drive. My other option in the future is to do a high steer knuckle - this would let me do offset 1 ton TRE's on the drag link without moving the panhard bar mount. However, if I move the tie rod to a high steer then I would have to move the pandhard mount to keep the angles correct anyway.

It now turns full lock to the drivers side and almost full lock to passenger side.

I cut the tabs off the old drag link to see if I can reuse the tabs - got them cut of but they dont fit the bigger drag link that good. Thats what you see in the picture attached.

Then started in on mocking up the tie rod. The high angle joint from Ruff stuff ES2027 is too big to fit into the stock zj pittman arm. Its taper is over size. Suggestion from Ruff Stuff is to drill out stock hole to 7/8 and then drop in a http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../INSSTEER.html tapered insert.

I did test the stock drag link joint to see how far it flexes and it looks like the stock one will flex enough for my suspension. Pretty impressive when you consider that I have 14 inch travel front shocks.

The nut insert that I bought from Ruff Stuff does not work on thread of the stock drag link threads. hmm .
so its either drill it and put in taper, put a heim in and drill it out, get a reamer and make the taper and hole bigger ( like this one best)

I am out of town the next couple of days so will get bushings ordered up - should be here by the time I get back Thursday. Might see if I can get Greg - Frobot fab to do the welding for me on the tie rod and drag link. On something like the steering system I would prefer someone with more experience to do it.

Was looking at brackets on ruffstuff for the tie road to weld onto the drag link. might talk to greg about having him make a better bracket.

Also going to order inner shift boot as I was getting exhaust fumes in cab.
img_20140112_170905_182.jpg  
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-15-2014, 10:44 PM   #35
sdmayhew
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Ordered a new inner shift boot, the zj one is discontinued of course. So had to order TJ one. Which is a different shape. Will see how far off when I get it in my hands.

Ordered the rubicon express upper control bushing and the lower control arm bushing from 4wd parts doing a ship to store. So once I get those in hand will compare it and post the part numbers for others to compare. It won't matter as much to others as few others will have this setup but I will record it for posterior

Called partsmike.com and he can ream my stock spare Pittman arm to 1 ton taper for $10 if I drop it off at his place. Then need to call Greg .frobot. To see if he can weld everything up for me.

So on track to get everything together by mid next week. Pretty excited to see how it drives with all new bushings.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-15-2014, 10:56 PM   #36
AgitatedPancake
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Work looks good Shawn! I can ream your pitman arm as well, I did mine and a couple others since then. I've got the reamer and everything I need over at the shop . Just bring the TRE you want to fit into the pitman so I can make sure to get depth correct.


New bushings all around makes a HUGE difference, I put quite a few new bushings in my WJ a month or two ago, drives like a whole new truck on the road
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Unread 01-15-2014, 11:50 PM   #37
sdmayhew
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Greg I will call you tomorrow. I have everything in the car, drag link, tie rod, Pittman drag link, Pittman arm. I will try and just bring everything over tomorrow after work. I have the old drag link to measure and match to. Just need you cut out one bracket and weld it to the the drag link. Or I can buy it from ruffstuff - will call tomorrow to explain.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-16-2014, 04:07 PM   #38
sdmayhew
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dropped all the steering stuff at Gregs on the way to work. so he is going to ream the pittman arm to 1 ton taper, cut the 1.5 inch pittman arm to the length of the old one, weld in the tube inserts fro both sides of the pittman arm. weld in both tube inserts on the drag link, cut or use one of his shock brackets to be the connection point for the pittman arm Heim joint. Then weld it down in about the same spot it was before at the end of the drag link near the passenger side knuckle. You have to see Gregs work in person to understand how good he is getting. I say this after looking at Andys 5.9, Gregs WJ and Mountain Marcs jeep. I have no problem trusting Gregs work

I also picked up the Rubicon Express clevite joint for the lower arms near the axle. they look to be the exact same model that I pulled out . will verify when i get home tonight. Also got my upper rubicon express easy ride joint for top control arm axle side.

Pretty stoked on what I have in play. Once I get the joints in I can flex out the suspension and see what 3/4 extension of the lower arms gives me. I already was beating on the wheel well to give it more room last weekend. I also need to cut out everything in front of the wheels and cut into the front inner fenders.

My welding gas lines on my torch set are shot so I need to grab a extra set or borrow my father in laws torch set =) Then I will be able to do some small welding of the inner fenders when I move them up for clearance sake.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-16-2014, 11:35 PM   #39
sdmayhew
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Bushings all match. Rubicon express bushing matches the old one perfectly when I measured it
image-197794588.jpg

image-2068915092.jpg

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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-17-2014, 11:47 PM   #40
sdmayhew
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Bushings all pressed in. The clevites were easy. Start them and then finish with press. Soaked the threads with PB blaster twice and will hit them again tomorrow to see if I can get the threads loose. I would still like to pull the main joint out. I do feel pretty comfortable with the 3/4 of inch I extended it. Just would like to get it all the way out to verify they are 5-6 inches long.

The upper easy ride bushings were a pain in the arse with the hourglass shape. It means that they had to press in exactly straight. I tried my bushing press and had issues with it, the bushing would just keep moving. Plus the bushing would not go in straight. So ran a bolt throughout the bushing to a big washer on the other side. Plus put a hose clamp on the rubber to get it started inside the cup. . Was able to get it halfway this way. Then used my press to send it in the rest of the way with a big washer on one side and the cup on the other side.

So tomorrow's goal is to get the arms in and bolted up with the upper radius arms. Then pull the springs and flex everything out to make sure I have plenty of room. I also need to verify how much shock travel I have. Wondering if I will need to drop my shocks lower in the mounts to match the travel.

That will take quite a while to get everything to clear. I would also like to cut everything out from under the front of the fenders to get even more room.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-18-2014, 06:33 PM   #41
sdmayhew
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All bushings installed and tightened done.

Odd thing is that the left arm was shorter than the right. I didn't think much of it until I was flexing everything out. Then it looked like left was shorter. Measured axle tube to nut and the left was off. Made them even and all good now.
It does not flex as much as before ! But driving wise it should be a lot tighter to drive.

Going to add some bumps stops as the arm are hitting the frame. So added bump stops to the axles side by using two each motor mounts from my fj40. Mocked up really nice. Just need to get some bolts to secure the, and will be ok.

I need to cut more in the front of the fender. So pulled fender and pulled out sawzall. In the attached picture you can see I already cut off the fender support thinking going to cut into inner fender next and cut out everything out from under front headlights. Will also need to cut the fiberglass fenders also to clear tires. It's scary to get out the sawzall but I have been thinking about cutting the inner fenders for quite a while. Will have to move a few things around to make room.

Rubber shifter cover is at post office so will get that Monday. Hopefully Greg will be done mon-Tuesday and I should be driving by wensday.
image-1679887127.jpg

image-1600383656.jpg

image-1646703479.jpg

image-157393939.jpg

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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-19-2014, 09:34 PM   #42
sdmayhew
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Spent a couple hours getting the front inner fenders cut out.can turn almost full lock to lock now at full stuff. First fender was the most work. I didn't make a big cut at first, made a couple smaller cuts and then keep testing the swing. I was also trying to only cut enough for the tire and reuse the stock battery tray as it looks like I could reuse it. So I took a bit more time. Plus had issues with wrecking my sawzalls blades, so,went back to my cut off wheel. The tire stuffs pretty good now.

Then on the second one I was a bit more prepared to make a big long cut. Then cut out the small stuff. So the second fender was maybe 45 minutes compared to 2 hours on first one.

Went through 4 blades and 4 cut off disks, didn't get to the fenders yet.
A hopefully tomorrow start making up metal inserts.
I checked my gas hoses and they are shot. So borrowed the hoses off our rodanater and got the torch working. So I should be to start cutting and shaping tomorrow.

Will post pictures in a moment or to.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-19-2014, 10:40 PM   #43
sdmayhew
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pictures

on the passenger side i didnt get a shot of before.
Here is a shot of everything cut out on the passenger side


Cut some more and it stuffs even more


Shot from the top




Drivers side first cut


After every is cut out


shot from the bottom
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-19-2014, 11:05 PM   #44
sdmayhew
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now that I put in bumpstops and the longs arms are hitting the underside of the frame. Which is really interesting in that I think I was flexing more before I lengthened the long arms.
Of course I dont have really loose bushings that were moving 1/2 up on top and another 1/4-1/2 inch on bottom.

Still wondering about cutting the rest of the bumper stuff under the headlights. Also thinking of pulling the front shocks and dropping then about 2 inches. Plus I need to go buy some 32 inch long limit straps for the front.

Need to manage my time as I have to be running by next Saturday for a large Search and rescue training. So I dont want to do too many projects that I cant finish.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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Unread 01-20-2014, 11:15 PM   #45
sdmayhew
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ok so grabbed the sawzall and just cut out under the lights. No turning back now.
pulled the grill out before i did as i need to get ready to start welding. Once I did that I was looking at the area under the lights and just decided the heck with it. out it went.

have a plan in mind to put some tube under the lights for protection of the lights.

Greg says should have the steering welded up tomorrow so hopefully start welding stuff and bolting everything back together tomorrow.
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1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
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