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Unread 01-13-2014, 11:07 PM   #256
MoonyJohn
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I bought some of those wireless lights and I couldnt get the remote to work unless it was right next to the signal wire (which was under the hood). I ended up replacing them with led's, but while they worked they did have a really nice beam. I had the fog versions.

Jeep looks good!

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Unread 01-14-2014, 07:25 AM   #257
roughknight69
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Location: Jamestown ny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonyJohn
I bought some of those wireless lights and I couldnt get the remote to work unless it was right next to the signal wire (which was under the hood). I ended up replacing them with led's, but while they worked they did have a really nice beam. I had the fog versions. Jeep looks good!
thats weird maybe the battery in the remote was dying? Mine works fine next to my shifter.
And thanks!
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Unread 01-15-2014, 10:16 PM   #258
MoonyJohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roughknight69 View Post
thats weird maybe the battery in the remote was dying? Mine works fine next to my shifter.
And thanks!
Hm, it was a brand new kit. Didnt think to check the battery lol. Oops
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Unread 01-16-2014, 07:26 AM   #259
roughknight69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonyJohn
Hm, it was a brand new kit. Didnt think to check the battery lol. Oops
It's the little things that get us.
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Unread 01-18-2014, 09:23 PM   #260
roughknight69
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Replaced my water pump today , was easier than I though it would be.
Gonna attempt to fix the broken black wire in the drivers door jamb to fix my windows. The wires corroded now so I believe it's pretty much useless. I believe I'll have to take out the harness and put a complete new wire in. :
image-725824609.jpg

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image-2031786329.jpg

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Unread 01-19-2014, 12:40 PM   #261
roughknight69
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Finished up rewiring my power windows, ran the tan power line to one of my switches so I didn't have to mess around with the door jam with it. Also re soldered the neg black wire to the windows. All works now, but the window switches will work with out the key in the ignition so I have to remember that.

also realized that the pink wire that is cut I. The door jamb is either a power or neg. to the door light. Do you think this is a good explanation for my dome light fuse to keep popping? I unplugged the bulb and crimped the wire for now because I didn't have any small wire to fix it.

I also put pipe insulation on my heater core lines to help the fluid warm up faster and to keep it warmer. A nifty little idea I saw on here last night. here's a picture of what the guy did.
image-1214792350.jpg

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Unread 01-25-2014, 11:42 PM   #262
roughknight69
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Winched a new chevy 1500 out of a 4ft ditch today during a snow storm. Took a little while but I got her out! The couple tossed me some money for helping them, didn't realize until I counted it they have me $120.

Coincidently my slight coolant leak I couldn't track down showed itself Halfway home. My radiator is cracked, which so happened to cost me $123.

I only had some coolant to put in the system and had to cycle about 2 gals of distilled water to get home. I didn't have anymore antifreeze at home and with the water still leaking out of it I pulled the lower radiator hose and let the water pump push what I think is most of the water out.

Does anyone think this will be ok for a few days? I'm just worried that any existing water in it would freeze up and create a problem. I believe I got most of the water out, with letting it push the coolant out from the lower hose.
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Unread 01-26-2014, 10:01 PM   #263
Spike300
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it should be ok, especially if you keep it inside
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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/camo-beast-975063/[/url]

5.2-242 tcase-44a-30x9.50x15 MT/R-American Racing Burst Rims -[COLOR="Red"]Optima[/COLOR] -E3 plugs-[COLOR="DarkGreen"]Cu[/COLOR]st[COLOR="DarkGreen"]om[/COLOR] Pa[COLOR="DarkGreen"]in[/COLOR]t-Amsoil-Addco Front and Rear-polyurethane bushings

[B]To be installed[/B]: RE gen2 discos, military battery terminals
[B]To be rebuilt:[/B] HP30
[B]To be received:[/B]
[B]To be paid for:[/B]

[B]Next on the list:[/B] complete redo of brakes and
lines
[B]Needed:[/B] fittings, coil of brake tubing, Russel speed bleeders

Zombie Outbreak Response Unit #75
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Unread 02-15-2014, 02:39 PM   #264
roughknight69
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Since posting they radiator was installed. The spectra rad. Wasn't the exact same dimensions as the old radiator, so the metal plate on the top of the radiator didn't fit right on the one side. After that was replaced my defrost/foot duct lever broke and I ordered that,along with a heater core since I need to tear into the dash anyways an got some 100w bulbs for my fog lights. I had to order moog ball joints last night. The pot holes created from ****** snow plow drivers in my town have turned the ball joints from I should get new ones this spring to if I don't replace them this week I might die! Got a pass. side axle shaft to since I'll be taking the old one out anyways. After that besides a few tre's my steering/suspension is all brand new.
image-2370079265.jpg

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Unread 02-23-2014, 07:55 AM   #265
DNFJ
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Some nice work so far man. I like that e-fan.
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Unread 02-23-2014, 08:39 AM   #266
roughknight69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNFJ
Some nice work so far man. I like that e-fan.
Thanks! I need to get a 70 amp relay for the hi speed setting. Keeps popping 40 amp ones.
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Unread 02-23-2014, 07:42 PM   #267
roughknight69
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Yesterday I tore my dash apart and attempted to fix my broken actuator arm. Upon getting ready to put the new one in I realized the small tab that holds the small metal piece of the blend door and rotates it was broken. So I attempted to remove the non broken prince from the blend door and broke said small metal piece in the process. : So I said **** it and put a screw through the top of the heater box and it holds the door completely shut. Allowing all the air to go to either the defrost or face setting. After assembling the actuator and arms back into place, well must not have been the correct because I heard a plastic grinding and the non attached arm that was broken to begin with fall off and now it can't move on its own. But I can shift between defrost and face very easily by moving the plastic arm that controls it just above the drivers foot vent. Ghetto but it works. While the dash was apart I replaced the heater core. In order to do this without taking the whole box out I snipped the tube in the old one and removed it. My new spectra core had rotating tubes that I removed by opening up the 4 pinched metal spots on the core holding the tubes in. Put the core in and re pinched the metal for the tubes. All looked fine and I put the dash mostly back together, Hooked the battery back up and turned it on. (I must say it nice not having your lights flash and etc. when reconnecting the batt. Since I disabled the alarm.)while it running I was messing with the vents and noticed coolant start to flood my pass floor board. I quickly turned it off and in plugged the batt in order to tear through it again. When doing this I noticed that one of the core lines was leaking where it connected to the rubber hoses. The damn old factory clamp wasn't working well enough. : so I put a new clamp on that and took my dash apart to make sure where I took the metal heater core tubes off wasn't leaking and the weren't. Then I cleaned up the coolant mess around the box as best I could. I connected the electric panel on the pass side floor board and turned it on. From what I could tell I couldn't see where any more coolant was leaking. So I put the dash back together and called it a day. I notice that some times a get an ever so slight trickle on the pass side fire wall to the floor board of coolant now, just enough to make a trail but not enough that it pools up. I thing the new clamp isn't tight enough and it dripped slightly when hot or maybe the excess coolant that spilled from before just finding it way down. Either way I'm going to let it go until spring as long as it doesn't get worse. Today I replaced my pass side ball joints and cv axle in hopes of solving a clunk when going over small bumps. Went smoothly since I had everything lathered in anti seize from previous fixes. When I puy the cv axle in though I'm sure I got a small amount of dirt in the diff though since the axle tube was really dirty. : I'll need to wait till this weekend to change it after I do the drivers side ball joints as well. Being my first time doing ball joints, I'm pretty happy that I can now replace everything on a d30 axle besides the gears. But it didn't solve my clunk though. : I think it's either the upper control arm axle bushing. The only bushing that's not new, sway bars (going to disconnect them tomorow to check), or the inner tie rod end that connects to the draglink.

Also I ripped my registration off of my windshield while pulling it apart. Does anyone knowing it costs anything to get a new one?
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Unread 02-25-2014, 06:27 PM   #268
roughknight69
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Picked up the materials needed to make a battery holder since I bought my zj with out one.
image-258836921.jpg

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Unread 03-28-2014, 07:55 PM   #269
roughknight69
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It's been a bit since I've last posted, I broke my original battery tray while tinkering with it. So I got a new one from a member on here along with factory bump stops, that I will use with hockey pucks. (I have no bump stops whatsoever.)

Here's my tray and fabbed up holder.

I've also replaced my iro axle track bar bushing since I was having some play in it.

I will be ripping out the dash again tomorow to fix the slight coolant leak from my heater core. 99% positive it is the lines to the water pump aren't on correctly still. So I bought 15ft of heater hose and I'm replacing them all, on top of cutting part of the heater cores lines to run the hose more into the dash where I can see better to make sure it won't leak again.
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image-2475216872.jpg

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Unread 03-28-2014, 08:03 PM   #270
roughknight69
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Almost forgot! I replaced my ball joints and inner driver tie rod end a few weeks ago also they were slightly bad.

Along with my bump stopping and heater hose replacement, I will be needing to trim my rear bumper a tad. I was messing around pulling up on a snow bank to park and when I got out I realized my tire was touching the rear bumper. : I followed the recommended ca length on the rear from iro 18in or something like that last year. Guess it was to much, sad I have to do the core or I would be adjusting them instead. I'll need more time than before to do it because I'm sure there seized in there from the salty roads.
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