Yesterday I tore my dash apart and attempted to fix my broken actuator arm. Upon getting ready to put the new one in I realized the small tab that holds the small metal piece of the blend door and rotates it was broken. So I attempted to remove the non broken prince from the blend door and broke said small metal piece in the process.
: So I said **** it and put a screw through the top of the heater box and it holds the door completely shut. Allowing all the air to go to either the defrost or face setting. After assembling the actuator and arms back into place, well must not have been the correct because I heard a plastic grinding and the non attached arm that was broken to begin with fall off and now it can't move on its own. But I can shift between defrost and face very easily by moving the plastic arm that controls it just above the drivers foot vent. Ghetto but it works.
While the dash was apart I replaced the heater core. In order to do this without taking the whole box out I snipped the tube in the old one and removed it. My new spectra core had rotating tubes that I removed by opening up the 4 pinched metal spots on the core holding the tubes in. Put the core in and re pinched the metal for the tubes. All looked fine and I put the dash mostly back together, Hooked the battery back up and turned it on. (I must say it nice not having your lights flash and etc. when reconnecting the batt. Since I disabled the alarm.)while it running I was messing with the vents and noticed coolant start to flood my pass floor board. I quickly turned it off and in plugged the batt in order to tear through it again. When doing this I noticed that one of the core lines was leaking where it connected to the rubber hoses. The damn old factory clamp wasn't working well enough.
: so I put a new clamp on that and took my dash apart to make sure where I took the metal heater core tubes off wasn't leaking and the weren't. Then I cleaned up the coolant mess around the box as best I could. I connected the electric panel on the pass side floor board and turned it on. From what I could tell I couldn't see where any more coolant was leaking. So I put the dash back together and called it a day. I notice that some times a get an ever so slight trickle on the pass side fire wall to the floor board of coolant now, just enough to make a trail but not enough that it pools up. I thing the new clamp isn't tight enough and it dripped slightly when hot or maybe the excess coolant that spilled from before just finding it way down. Either way I'm going to let it go until spring as long as it doesn't get worse. Today I replaced my pass side ball joints and cv axle in hopes of solving a clunk when going over small bumps. Went smoothly since I had everything lathered in anti seize from previous fixes. When I puy the cv axle in though I'm sure I got a small amount of dirt in the diff though since the axle tube was really dirty.
: I'll need to wait till this weekend to change it after I do the drivers side ball joints as well. Being my first time doing ball joints, I'm pretty happy that I can now replace everything on a d30 axle besides the gears.
But it didn't solve my clunk though.
: I think it's either the upper control arm axle bushing. The only bushing that's not new, sway bars (going to disconnect them tomorow to check), or the inner tie rod end that connects to the draglink.
Also I ripped my registration off of my windshield while pulling it apart. Does anyone knowing it costs anything to get a new one?