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Unread 04-08-2009, 08:41 PM   #16
ratmonkey
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the bearing on the pass side fell apart when i got it out of the tube, no test drive yet. some in process pictures to follow later. heading out to a show right now.

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'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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Unread 04-08-2009, 11:48 PM   #17
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ok, after a test drive it took care of the majority of my bearing noise in the rear end, i think that my driver's side shaft is too scored as well, since that bearing is nearly new too.

here's some pics from the process. firstly...
the most important tool for the job.

second best tool in the arsenal. if you've never used a ratcheting wrench, you're missing out.

don't forget to slather some of this on every nut and bolt you take out.



if you don't know where to start on this, well, i kinda feel bad for ya. crack the diff and drain it.


pull your tires and ebrake hardware on the side you want to pull(more room to work with) take the other tire off as well so you can spin everything easier.


pull your drive shaft so you can freely spin the diff as needed.

get the right tool for the job of pulling the cross shaft pin, e8 torx.

for this guy

now you can rotate the locker around(or pull the spider gears if you don't have an aussie( )
if you have an aussie, pull these springs.(never mind the milkshake)

now the c clip will either fall right out or it'll take you 2hrs to get it wiggled just right to come out. guess which way it went for me this time...

pull the shaft out, use a slide hammer to yank the bearing and seal at the same time.

tap the new bearing into place a little bit with a non marring hammer. then use the old bearing to pound it evenly the rest of the way in.

the same method works for the new seal using the old as a punch.

throw the new shaft in, pop the c-clip back into the slot, put the springs in, throw the cross shaft in. rtv the cover and put it back on, then fill with your choice of gear lube. i happen to use this wonderful contraption known as an oil safe to pump the oil into my diffs. saves a lot of messing around.
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'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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Unread 04-09-2009, 03:12 PM   #18
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machine shop should have my motor ready to go in two weeks, for about 600 bones worth of work. glass beaded, bore and hone, deck to true and remove any high/low areas, replace cam bearings, and replace freeze plugs.

can't wait.

one completely stripped block, good to go.
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'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.


Last edited by ratmonkey; 04-09-2009 at 11:18 PM..
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Unread 04-12-2009, 07:53 PM   #19
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i am about "this" close to taking a torch to my 44a, now that the pass side axle is silent i've got a VERY minor wobble in the drivers side brake rotor(brand new) and that bearing, timkin with about 3k on it, is grinding. plus it needs a new pinion seal and carrier bearings are a bit loud now. ugh...regear and mvc truss time. mvc is only about 3.5hrs from me....
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Unread 04-18-2009, 07:07 PM   #20
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took the time yesterday to reroute my power cable for my stereo, along with relocating my ignition controller and light and fan relays to under the rear seat.
ran all wires under the carpet and to a hole i cut in the tranny tunnel. pulled the wires up the trans tunnel and back of the fire wall around the pass side head and secured to the wire looms already there. significantly cleaner than what i was running, plus i was going through corroded relays about every 2-3 months with them being under the hood.

everything is on push connect fittings so that i can reorganize everything under there when i get a box built up.

it was dark out while i was doing the work so no pics of the in progress this time, i'll get some pics of the wires routed in the daylight though.should have picked up more 14ga red and white(ran out) and 10ga orange so that i could keep the colors consistent with what they went to. as it is i had to sub in some blue and gree 14ga and black 10ga.
yellow 10ga running main power back to the relays, 12ga red running power to the lights, 10ga black power to the fan, 14ga orange, black, blue, and green for the ign controller. white and light green for the switches.

the hole in the trans tunnel is 7/8 to fit the 4ga power wire for my amps and all the other wires running through it. i will need to enlarge it if i do end up running 2/0 welding cable to the back for power like i want to.


the reason for the separate power cable for the relays and ign box is that if something overcurrents my amplifiers, i don't want to have it shut down my fan and engine as well.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 10:17 AM   #21
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my wallet is now 1200 dollars lighter due to a 408 stroker kit being purchased.

still waiting on aps to get my shift and rebuild kits here. wayne certainly does know his stuff about the inside of a gearbox. he isn't the best at email or shipping quickly, though that's only my experience thus far.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 10:51 AM   #22
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408...sick!!!!!!!!!

how is that hughes intake? i've been looking at it a lil bit, they seem to have some pretty nice stuff there.
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3.5 BDS, Rancho 9000xl shocks, 31x10.5x15 BFG A/Ts, KOR lower rad support, JKS quicker discos, Hella 500s, 3" magnaflow exhaust, KOR-alike Roof Rack, IRO tie rod...bunch of other stupid crap.

Greatest Thing You've Ever Seen
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Unread 04-29-2009, 10:59 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by besthaticouldo View Post
408...sick!!!!!!!!!

how is that hughes intake? i've been looking at it a lil bit, they seem to have some pretty nice stuff there.
the powerband on the intake(and the overall flow) is actually a bit too high/much for the 5.2 unfortunately as i'm experiencing. it doesn't really kick in till about 2250-2500rpms and pulls strong till the tranny shifts at 5000rpms.
it's really much better suited to a 360(what they designed it for) or a stroker.
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Unread 05-07-2009, 01:15 PM   #24
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my rebuild and transgo hd2 shift kit have arrived. also upgrading the od unit a bit. will take as many pictures as i can. this kit looks great.
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Unread 05-09-2009, 07:40 AM   #25
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got the OD unit back together, sorry no pics on that as i had to do it during "government" time at work and had to hurry.
it's pretty straight forward, but you WILL need a hydraulic press with a decent stroke on the ram to do the job. 215lbs of me standing on the old spring doesn't even budge it.
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Unread 05-23-2009, 07:02 AM   #26
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tranny is in, jeep moves, will post some pictures later today. tired after work now.

i accidentally put in the rear servo for a manual shift valve body, while drilling out the shift firmness holes in the seperator plate for an hd gasser work truck(holes are about 3/4 the size they need to be for manual shift) so i'll have to drop the valve body again and hack at it some more. the valve body is easier to drop than pulling the rear servo.
i didn't get much "in progress" pictures, i was lazy and frustrated at times, but i'll give a text write up on everything with some shiny tranny pictures. and possibly some valve body pictures as well.

let me tell you all one thing. if you've got a transmission with 100k on it and you want to perk it up a bit. next fluid change you do, disassemble the valve body(it's super easy) and clean it out. you'd be amazed by the amount of gunk that gets stuck in there. you just need your trusty t25 torx driver and a good memory to take it apart.

on the engine front. the shop i'm getting my rotating assembly from says they'll have it to me middle of next week and the machine shop doing my block just finished up friday with the zero decking operation.
i now need to start ordering all the other goodies that go in the engine bay. wires, iridium plugs, new coil, new ignition box, water pump, wire looms(gotta color it up a bit), new injectors(gonna need more than 24lbs/hr according to new calcs, gotta get 32lber's), fastman tb...too much fun stuff.
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Unread 05-27-2009, 07:18 PM   #27
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first, a joke to start off the post. this is effing hilarious.


now on to the fun, some of the guts of a transmission.

pulling it out is pretty straight forward, here's what needs done to pull the valve body though.
remove the shift and tv cables, they just pop off.
loosen the clamp bolts on the shift and tv levers and pull them off.


flip it over (if it's out) or climb under there and pull the 10 hex head bolts on the valve body. they are different lengths, long ones go on the accumulator, the rest are pretty self explanatory.

park rod e-clip.

valve body will wiggle the rest of the way out and now you've got your guts showing. very dirty guts if you're over 75k.

you need to unscrew the band adjusters at this point and take out the front band apply strut.
after this you start pulling things from the oil pump back, it's easy and pretty self explanatory. the pump comes out with a slide hammer, you can get a puller tool for it or just yank from one side at a time till it pops out(alternate sides when you get a bit of movement.)

here's what you'll see after the pump is out, just grab the input shaft and pull up, the front half of your transmission's fun parts will just come right out for you.(front planetary and clutches)

next you just take off the retaining ring on the intermediate shaft and the rear planetary and clutches will come out.



this is just to show you generally what all is in there, you shouldn't attempt this without an fsm handy.
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Unread 05-27-2009, 07:27 PM   #28
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cleaned and painted housing.


down the front. no guts yet.

all seals replaced

overdrive unit with intermediate shaft. aligning the od planetary splines sucks.

front half back in the jeep, it was MUCH lighter and easier to maneuver this way.


will add some final pics when i get under there again to adjust the valve body a bit more.

here's my underhood wiring i was talking about earlier. runs into the trans tunnel and up the firewall to the batt area, power for amp and relays send/return for ignition box and power to the kc slim lights and fan.

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Unread 05-29-2009, 06:02 AM   #29
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the studs pulled out of my kevin's hard kor crossmember when putting everything back together, kor REALLY stepped up and shipped me new hardened bolts to weld in on their dime. when i was just gonna zap in some grade 8 7/16. they threw the 7/16 stove bolts my way.

my jeep's already a billboard for their products with as many as i have already, can't say enough good stuff about their customer service. didn't have to send the bolts as there's no warranty on that product, especially after 2 years.
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Unread 05-29-2009, 05:13 PM   #30
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these look interesting.

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