My winch (Smittybuilt, less than a year old) was frozen in the engaged mode. According to 4wp, they have seen this a few times. They hooked me up with a new outer cover, selector lever, and install kit.
There is a spring that rests into a bore in the outer cover, with a steel ball on top of it. The selector compresses the spring, and rests on the ball. The selector has two cavities in it that the steel ball rests into, thus keeping the spring loaded selector in the engaged or freel spool modes. This bore filled with water, corroded, and the spring/ball would not move.
When I installed the new cover/spring/ball/lever, I filled the bore with grease to prevent future corrosion. I also added a cover to prevent further issues.
Today I visited two salvage yards and picked up the following:
- Rear interior panel for the drivers side cargo area (I put a hole in mine)
- Drivers door lock mechanism (mine is making some funny noises, sounds like it is on its way out)
- Hood latch (I have to slam mine to get it to shut, time to replace)
- Two pieces of rear door seal (the usual WJ seal shrink...I am going to piece in some extra material at the bottom seam so that it doesn't fall out of the corners anymore)
- A few door clips to replace those that I will inevitably break when I R&R the actuator
- Bottom half of the airbox (2 of my 4 clips have broken off)
- Black center vent and radio console (in case I decide to do a double DIN, this will allow me to modify it and have a spare)
Rear interior panel installed, hood latch fixed, and bottom half of airbox installed. It was cold, so I will do the door lock mechanism later.
The hood latch ended up being fine. I noticed that I didn't have enough support on the upper radiator support, so I installed two 1/4 thick nuts between the two vertical support bars in the middle of the grill and the front lower bumper area. this forced the upper radiator support to move up just slightly. I also noticed that the hood still wasn't latching easily. I found that the cable was not releasing, and it was because it was pinched between the outer fender and the Charcoal canister (when I replaced the booster I must have pinched it. Hopefully the cable is fine. I moved the cable from pinch spot, and it is working fine now. It is good to have 4 working latches on the airbox. I did notice that the latches had lost much of their spring. So I removed each one, pinched it slightly, and now they all grab and hold the top of the airfilter box on very well.
phew finally got to the end of your build haha i must say thats an awesome build man. ive see al your vids on youtube before i found your build thread but im glad i did. congrats on a good looking dub. i hope to start building my sherry once im out of college and have time and money hah. keep up the good work.
'04 WJ "Sherry" 4.0L RCX 4in lift on 265/75/16 BFG ATs DD/Trail rig- uniden 505xl 4ft firestik- custom roof Rack- custom rear and front shackle tabs-
It was kind of a pain with the bumper tolerances so close, I trimmed quite a bit more in order to give me some working room. I just crisscrossed the cord beneath the winch, and then into some of the loops on the cover. Then I pulled it tight and it pulled the cover down over the winch. Good Luck.
What all came with the rock krawler kit if u dont mind me asking. Theres a local guy around here that has a 99 gc hes parting out and told me 500 for the lift and front drive shaft with yokes and i was curious as to what parts are supposed to come with it so i know im getting everything and since i cant find nothing online since they discontinued the kit. But i figured hell 500 i cant pass it up.
I have a Gen 2 kit, and will describe what came with it:
-Two front lower control arms with RK joints in each end
-LCA brackets to weld to the unibody (they also space the tcase down)
-One upper front control arm (some kids had two, mine was a TRI link kit)
-Front upper control arm mounting bracket
-upper control arm joint that fits into the did housing
-Heim joint for the body side uca Mount
-Front and rear extended sway bar end links (I changed my fronts to jks and I don't think the rears were long enough, so I extended mine 3.5 inches. )
-Front track bar with body side bushing and frame side heim
-two rear lower control arms with RK joints in each end
-two lca rear mounting plates that are welded to the unibody
-upper control arm bracket that bolts to the differential
-two upper control arms (used in place of the factory a-arm) with heims at each end
- All the hardware to bolt things on
I believe that is all. Btw, most of the kits don't come with shocks, you order those separate. But I added then to this list because you should ask for them. The hardest part will be to get the brackets off of the frame, clean then up, and weld them back on. The track bar axle Mount might require drilling If the bolt is larger diameter than your factory bolt. I have the factory bolt in mine, but later kits have a larger bolt. Make sure to get all the hardware, especially the spacer and track bar bolt. Unless that axle side bushing is in great shape, I would replace it. RK still has a lot of the parts, just get the numbers off of the bushings and call them.
EDIT-Mine also had front coil spring retainers and small bump stop extensions.
All those wheeling trips have had their toll on the exhaust system. I have had to weld the inlet back onto the muffler two times, and now this happened:
I was just going to put a turn down on it and call it good, but I just decided to run over to a local exhaust shop and have a magnaflow installed. I also had them cut the hanger and raise the rear of the pipe about 3 inches. It matches the lines of the Protofab much better now.
How are your tail lights holding up? Do you know the manufacturer of them? Also, are the blinker/reverse lights LED or just the brake? Can you swap in LED bulbs where the blinker/reverse lamps are or are they built in?
I am not sure of the manufacturer, I bought them on eBay. They have held up well, they still work great with all LEDs functioning. I am not sure about the reverse lights, but I suspect they are standard bulbs. I know that the blinkers are standard bulbs. Others have replaced them with led lights that screw into the socket, but that requires you to install an in line resister so you don't have a fast blinker action (that warns of a burnt bulb).
My only complaint about them: the LEDs are not a wide enough viewing angle. If you are behind the driver side, it will look brighter than the passenger side, and vice versa.