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Unread 09-18-2012, 07:44 PM   #541
compcrasher86
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Location: Marblehead, MA, Henrietta, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patto View Post
thanks a lot for your help...my 6,5" rough country kit is already being installed - I will call the attention of my mechanic about these brackets. About the shocks, I will have Bilstein, I guess model 5120...at least here in Brazil, is the best or one of the best we have.
I'll gonna search about this quality problems you mention and possible solutions
thanks again
If your tires are not wide enough to rub the shocks, you do not need to run the shock relocation bracket anyways. If you are having rubbing problems I suggest using proper wheel spacers or having the factory shock mount cut off and rewelded inwards: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...acket-1236711/

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Unread 09-18-2012, 07:53 PM   #542
patto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
If your tires are not wide enough to rub the shocks, you do not need to run the shock relocation bracket anyways. If you are having rubbing problems I suggest using proper wheel spacers or having the factory shock mount cut off and rewelded inwards: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...acket-1236711/
up to now, no, I will run 31" (245/75 R16) in original wheels, but I am intending to run 35" or 37", probably with spacers and some modifications in the front suspension to fit such tires

gonna read the link you sent

thanks a lot

Last edited by patto; 09-18-2012 at 08:37 PM..
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Unread 09-19-2012, 04:40 AM   #543
mrJ
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i ran 33's with spacers and had control arm rubbing. now with 4" bs on my cragars and 35's, the only rubbing i have at full lock is where i didn't trim enough inside the wheel well. if i put my 33's on JK rims on without the spacers, the rear would hit the shock, but the front was fine. if you're going to 37's, that's a whole new can of worms that only a few on here can help you with. you're going to need stronger axles and a regear for sure.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 06:46 PM   #544
patto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrJ View Post
i ran 33's with spacers and had control arm rubbing. now with 4" bs on my cragars and 35's, the only rubbing i have at full lock is where i didn't trim enough inside the wheel well. if i put my 33's on JK rims on without the spacers, the rear would hit the shock, but the front was fine. if you're going to 37's, that's a whole new can of worms that only a few on here can help you with. you're going to need stronger axles and a regear for sure.
ok, there. tks for the information, but I'll stop poluting this thread, with the most beautiful WJ I have ever seen.
i am intending to create my own thread
to the owner of this thread, congrats, your WJ is amazing and sorry bothering you guys
tks for the help
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Unread 09-21-2012, 10:23 PM   #545
85IrocZ-28
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I have been putting this off for a couple of weeks, but now that it is cool in the morning and my wife wants to use the heater, it was time to fix the heater core. It is also good that I was able to get to it before it dumped everywhere.

On a good note, all of my blend doors and recirc doors look good. But now that I have taken it this far apart, I better knock on wood and hope they don't break in the next month after I pulled it apart this far.

To get to the heater core, I removed the front seats, front half of the back seat, steering column, center console, glove box, a pillar covers, scuff guards, interior wiring, and the entire dashboard. Then you can get to the HVAC box. After pulling the AC lines and heater hose, I was able to finally access the heater core.





The foam on the new heater core was not as thick, there was a small gap:


So I covered it with aluminum tape to keep the box sealed properly:


At least you don't have to remove the brake pedal or gas pedal:


The HVAC box is now back in, I will have to finish the interior installation tomorrow.


The wiring harness splits in a really cool way allowing you to remove the dash section with the gauge pod, radio, HVAC controls, speakers, and a few other things still installed. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be...it is not too technical, it just takes time. And it helped tremendously that I found these video's on YouTube and watched them last night.



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Unread 09-21-2012, 10:36 PM   #546
85IrocZ-28
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You really can do this job with the seats in, but it is much easier to have the front seats out of the way. And pulling the front half of the rear seats allowed me to set tools and parts into the rear compartment more easily.

While they were out, I decided to drill the pins in the mounts so the seats can be easily removed whenever...I replaced the factory pins with removable ones. I was motivated to do this after sleeping in the Jeep while camping last weekend. At 6'1" it will be nice to have 8 more inches to hang my feet over. The ZJ seats just came right out, it will be nice to have this feature again. I can't remember who did this on JF, but I copied your great idea. Thank you whoever you are.

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My Jeep is Organic - Undercoated in 100% all natural Utah Dirt --- Utah Jeep Crew #49 ~Will
2012 JeepForum GCOTY --- [URL=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/project-yeti-abominable-wj-1125665/]Project Yeti Build Thread[/URL]
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Unread 09-21-2012, 11:07 PM   #547
alwaysHI
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damn Will....thats a lot of work! but looks good and clean as always. I took apart my civic dash in high school, and man was it the biggest PITA ever haha.
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Unread 09-21-2012, 11:37 PM   #548
85IrocZ-28
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Yeah, this is my first complete dash, crazy. It is amazing what treasures you find when you start pulling seats and consoles.
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My Jeep is Organic - Undercoated in 100% all natural Utah Dirt --- Utah Jeep Crew #49 ~Will
2012 JeepForum GCOTY --- [URL=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/project-yeti-abominable-wj-1125665/]Project Yeti Build Thread[/URL]
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Unread 09-21-2012, 11:39 PM   #549
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That's an insane amount of sleep. You'd think by now they would have invented a heater core that doesn't degrade like that, or maybe even blend doors and recirc doors that replace the defective design from the factory. I'll knock on wood with you that yours will last you a long, long time. It seems a heck of a lot of work, indeed. I commend you on the undertaking. I'm not nearly so patient. So I admire you. Of course, you could've just gotten one of those urns filled with bovril like James May did in that 'snowbine' episode....
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Unread 09-22-2012, 07:48 AM   #550
compcrasher86
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Good work man! Saw that post on Facebook and I was thinking to myself, huh wonder why he woulda gone through this much trouble for blend doors. So I'm assuming you had to have the AC system evac'd too, sounds like a pain! Make sure you check the o-rings to the HVAC box and if they're looking dry replace them.

On WJs the heater core is in a really inconvenient spot. On my roommates 1986 Caprice his heater core was in the engine bay believe it or not. Four screws for an insulated cover, two hoses, and it slipped straight out. No dash-removing nonsense. Very easy

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Unread 09-22-2012, 11:43 PM   #551
85IrocZ-28
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Yeah, I wish it had been more convenient...but it is done. 4 Screws, that would have been nice . As big of a pain as it is, I actually like the design of how everything comes apart and goes back together.

I started out the day with this:



It is actually pretty cool how the wiring separates so that the whole unit can be removed. The gauge pod can actually be left in place, but I am glad that I removed it as it is actually a pretty good area to hold onto when maneuvering the dash unit.

I took my time re-installing all the panels and the center console. I cleaned everything, it looks great now.

Before I refilled the A/C and the coolant, I decided I would replace the water pump and fan clutch. It had not failed, but with 130k I figured it should just do it. The bearings were not terrible, but there was a very slight noise. Now that it is done, I think I will do the idler pulley pretty soon as it is starting to make some noise. I like the water pump design, it was actually pretty easy to remove and replace.



It is very nice to have the rear seats installed with the pin disconnects, this will come in very handy.



I think I'll take the next couple of days off
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My Jeep is Organic - Undercoated in 100% all natural Utah Dirt --- Utah Jeep Crew #49 ~Will
2012 JeepForum GCOTY --- [URL=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/project-yeti-abominable-wj-1125665/]Project Yeti Build Thread[/URL]
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Unread 09-25-2012, 06:14 PM   #552
LRay
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It's a sweet jeep. Kind of what I have been working on but with a ZJ. I wanna do just about everything you did to yours. I just got the fender flares in a couple days ago and need to try getting them on soon. I'm doing mine in flat black though. You have an awesome truck man!
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Unread 09-25-2012, 10:45 PM   #553
85IrocZ-28
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Cool, post up some pics of your progress. Did you get your flares from Iceland Offroad, or from the oversee's company?

BTW, I was in Cincy on business this August, my first time there. It is a cool city, and it was fun to see the Reds beat up on the Mets.
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*Project Yeti* 99 JGC Limited 4.7 w/6.5" Rockkrawler LA & IRO A-arm, Goodyear MTR 35's on MB TKO's, 4.56 Yukon's, Iceland Offroad Bumper/Flares/Sliders, Protofab Rear Carrier, SuperChips, Uniden/Firestick, Flowmaster, Smittybilt 8k Synthetic Line Winch.

My Jeep is Organic - Undercoated in 100% all natural Utah Dirt --- Utah Jeep Crew #49 ~Will
2012 JeepForum GCOTY --- [URL=http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/project-yeti-abominable-wj-1125665/]Project Yeti Build Thread[/URL]
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Unread 09-26-2012, 08:09 AM   #554
DrGrand
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Started following this thread right after I got my Jeep when I was 16 over on NAGCA, and it truly inspired me to get working on mine! Now it has been a year since that and it has gone from this:


to this
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Unread 09-26-2012, 11:48 AM   #555
ironman70
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What size pins did you use for the rear seats?
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