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Unread 07-02-2013, 03:31 PM   #16
brouwmat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteYJTJ
Thanks brouwmat, I appreciate the input. It was a tough call -- in the end I did end up going with the 3" IRO, and the Bilstein shocks, Moog steering stabilizer, and new isolators. Parts are on their way, and I should be installing in the next couple of weeks.

Cost wise --- seeing I also added new isolators, which would have been an adder either way --- it was probably not much different. My WJ is only at 100K, and I hope to drive it to over 200K, so the parts will be on there a while.

Provided I don't end up with any DW issues and needing adjustable arms, I should be good to go for a while. I'll toss in a 10mm spacer if I need to at some point, but I'm guessing the 3" will be plenty for what I plan to do with the WJ.

Thanks for your input,
Pete
Congrats and enjoy the install! I don't think DW is typically caused by CA's unless your caster gets way off and that usually is ok at 3". Check your TRE's and steering box for looseness.. Those are the most common. You got the stabilizer which was a good call - that'll help too.

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Unread 07-22-2013, 08:32 AM   #17
PeteYJTJ
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She's lifted. :)

Hey all,

Finally, the WJ is lifted. Here we go....

The final choice was an IRO 3" with adjustable trac bar, Bilsteins, Moog Trail Boss steering stabilizer, and new isolators. I got everything from Kolak. I plan to have a winch, and a bunch of gear in back, so I added a 10mm OME spacer all around. Got those from Quadratec, as I had a gift certificate to use through them.

Kolak was really good during the process, and got me a great deal on everything. I highly recommend him. I did have some issues in the process, and I never went one day without a return email from him, and he was very prompt in contacting people on my behalf to sort it out. Once we got past two shipments missing parts, and then we all agreed what "new parts" should actually look like I was ready for the install.

None of that was Nick's fault, and things do happen in the real world, so, anyway, here we go.....

First step was measuring things and taking the Jeep apart. I measured caster at the bottom of the axle, pretty much the only place I could stick my magnetic gauge. I figured it would be good enough for a before-and-after comparison. 6.5 degrees stock.

For a New England Jeep at 9 years old, it came apart pretty well. My front axle perches did have some pretty heavy duty rust under the front isolators, but I cleaned it up and doused it with rust converter, and there was plenty left to locate the spring - I'm not too worried.

I debated on spending the $ for new isolators, as I wasn't sure how bad mine would be - the Jeep's only got just over 100K on it now. But I was glad I did -- the fronts weren't too bad, but the rears were toasted. And Nick has a screaming deal on all 8 anyway.

No real issues with the install. Man that front upper driver-side shock bolt is fun. Under the brake booster, under the ABS unit..... no access for a wrench. Then you figure out that on the suspension some of the nuts seem fused to their component, and you can only turn the bolt heads.....

I also was missing a zerk fitting on the driver side upper ball joint. I guess whoever replaced the joint didn't feel like screwing in the zerk. I stole a zerk from a spare YJ dana30 I have.

The drag link resisted turning, to center the steering wheel after the install, but an overnight soaking in penetrating oil and a pipe wrench got it to go. 6 turns on the adjuster to center the wheel.

Caster measured at the same place after the install: 5.5 degrees. So I lost one degree. The Jeep seems to have a little wander, but that could just be the tires, or body sway from being higher - maybe I just need to get used to it. I'll think about a stiffer sway bar for the rear. No wobble yet, I've got about 60 or 70 miles on it so far.

Tires are Goodyear Wrangler Authority 265-75-16 on the stock wheels. Walmart, Under $800 out the door -- dismount, mount, balance, tax, everything. I had a set of these on my old TJ, and at 30K+ they still looked great, so I went with them again. They are an agressive AT, look great, and make a nice little rumble going down the road, but not at all offensive. I would have liked Rubicon take-offs, but everyone around here wants $1200 or more for a set...... And they're not siped. The GYs are siped, and I know they're good in the rain and snow from my own experiences. I think I made the right call -- my wheels are in great shape, and the Jeep looks good.

I did pull the front driveshaft. I have a ujoint at the axle, but a Rezeppa at the TC. I do have a double-cardan replacement in the garage waiting for new joints and then swap the TC yoke. Probably won't get to that for a few weeks.

Here are some shots.

Next up is a hitch step welded out of some scrap 2" tube I've got.
stock-caster-6-half.jpg   parts.jpg   no-zerk.jpg   bad-perch-rust.jpg   after-caster-5-half.jpg  

tires-on1.jpg   tires-2.jpg  
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Unread 07-22-2013, 05:42 PM   #18
Ranger94
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Looks good!
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[CENTER][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/ranger94s-2003-wj-build-1441912/"]My 2003 Limited WJ Build[/URL][/CENTER][CENTER]ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ [/CENTER]
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Unread 07-22-2013, 06:00 PM   #19
tim0
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Very nice.
Did your drive shaft's end up with the same or close to the same angle as your front and rear diff's?
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Unread 07-22-2013, 10:53 PM   #20
brouwmat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteYJTJ
Hey all,

Finally, the WJ is lifted. Here we go....

The final choice was an IRO 3" with adjustable trac bar, Bilsteins, Moog Trail Boss steering stabilizer, and new isolators. I got everything from Kolak. I plan to have a winch, and a bunch of gear in back, so I added a 10mm OME spacer all around. Got those from Quadratec, as I had a gift certificate to use through them.

Kolak was really good during the process, and got me a great deal on everything. I highly recommend him. I did have some issues in the process, and I never went one day without a return email from him, and he was very prompt in contacting people on my behalf to sort it out. Once we got past two shipments missing parts, and then we all agreed what "new parts" should actually look like I was ready for the install.

None of that was Nick's fault, and things do happen in the real world, so, anyway, here we go.....

First step was measuring things and taking the Jeep apart. I measured caster at the bottom of the axle, pretty much the only place I could stick my magnetic gauge. I figured it would be good enough for a before-and-after comparison. 6.5 degrees stock.

For a New England Jeep at 9 years old, it came apart pretty well. My front axle perches did have some pretty heavy duty rust under the front isolators, but I cleaned it up and doused it with rust converter, and there was plenty left to locate the spring - I'm not too worried.

I debated on spending the $ for new isolators, as I wasn't sure how bad mine would be - the Jeep's only got just over 100K on it now. But I was glad I did -- the fronts weren't too bad, but the rears were toasted. And Nick has a screaming deal on all 8 anyway.

No real issues with the install. Man that front upper driver-side shock bolt is fun. Under the brake booster, under the ABS unit..... no access for a wrench. Then you figure out that on the suspension some of the nuts seem fused to their component, and you can only turn the bolt heads.....

I also was missing a zerk fitting on the driver side upper ball joint. I guess whoever replaced the joint didn't feel like screwing in the zerk. I stole a zerk from a spare YJ dana30 I have.

The drag link resisted turning, to center the steering wheel after the install, but an overnight soaking in penetrating oil and a pipe wrench got it to go. 6 turns on the adjuster to center the wheel.

Caster measured at the same place after the install: 5.5 degrees. So I lost one degree. The Jeep seems to have a little wander, but that could just be the tires, or body sway from being higher - maybe I just need to get used to it. I'll think about a stiffer sway bar for the rear. No wobble yet, I've got about 60 or 70 miles on it so far.

Tires are Goodyear Wrangler Authority 265-75-16 on the stock wheels. Walmart, Under $800 out the door -- dismount, mount, balance, tax, everything. I had a set of these on my old TJ, and at 30K+ they still looked great, so I went with them again. They are an agressive AT, look great, and make a nice little rumble going down the road, but not at all offensive. I would have liked Rubicon take-offs, but everyone around here wants $1200 or more for a set...... And they're not siped. The GYs are siped, and I know they're good in the rain and snow from my own experiences. I think I made the right call -- my wheels are in great shape, and the Jeep looks good.

I did pull the front driveshaft. I have a ujoint at the axle, but a Rezeppa at the TC. I do have a double-cardan replacement in the garage waiting for new joints and then swap the TC yoke. Probably won't get to that for a few weeks.

Here are some shots.

Next up is a hitch step welded out of some scrap 2" tube I've got.
Looks great! Is that the passenger side spring perch that the cap is about rusted off? I followed someone on here's instructions for fixing that.. Went to the local metal wholesaler and bought a foot of some 4" DOM tubing (I think this is what it was anyway). Then I went to a local welding shop and asked him if he'd do it. Pulled off the wheel and spring outside and he just welded it up on the spot (he also welded on a large washer to serve as a new cap) I think it cost me $18 for the tubing and $50 for the welder to hit it for me. Problem fixed. Mine was bad on the drivers side, but the passenger side had started to go too so I had him do both. Your other side looks perfectly good yet so I wouldn't worry about that one.

Nice job!
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Unread 07-23-2013, 12:41 AM   #21
99WJ539918
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Looks good. What vehicle did you pull the DC driveshaft out of?
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Unread 07-23-2013, 06:43 AM   #22
PeteYJTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brouwmat View Post
Looks great! Is that the passenger side spring perch that the cap is about rusted off? I followed someone on here's instructions for fixing that.. Went to the local metal wholesaler and bought a foot of some 4" DOM tubing (I think this is what it was anyway). Then I went to a local welding shop and asked him if he'd do it. Pulled off the wheel and spring outside and he just welded it up on the spot (he also welded on a large washer to serve as a new cap) I think it cost me $18 for the tubing and $50 for the welder to hit it for me. Problem fixed. Mine was bad on the drivers side, but the passenger side had started to go too so I had him do both. Your other side looks perfectly good yet so I wouldn't worry about that one.

Nice job!
Thanks! Yes, the photo is the passenger side perch. The driver's side was about the same. Thanks for the tip on the tubing - that sounds like a good solution if I need it in the future. I'll review them next summer and see if they're getting worse.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tim0 View Post
Very nice.
Did your drive shaft's end up with the same or close to the same angle as your front and rear diff's?
Thanks. I did not measure the drivesahft angle before taking the Jeep apart, sorry. That would have been a good idea to see how much they increased. I'm sure they are steeper than stock now, obviously. No vibes coming from the rear at all, so the ujoint angles should be close enough. I'll have to see if the front shaft vibrates at all when I get it in. Not much I'll be able to do about it if so without adjustable arms.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJ539918 View Post
Looks good. What vehicle did you pull the DC driveshaft out of?
A shot of the shaft is on page 1. I pulled it from a V8 WJ in the junkyard. Cost me $42, complete with the yoke. It is a bit shorter than the 4.0 version, so you lose some spline engagement. But I've read that some guys run them on the 4.0 so I'm hoping it works out ok. I'm not planning any hardcore crawling with the WJ, just camping and exploring, so as long as it's good at highway speeds and gets me around in the snow, it should be fine.

Thanks guys!
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Unread 07-23-2013, 11:12 PM   #23
99WJ539918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteYJTJ View Post
Thanks! Yes, the photo is the passenger side perch. The driver's side was about the same. Thanks for the tip on the tubing - that sounds like a good solution if I need it in the future. I'll review them next summer and see if they're getting worse.




Thanks. I did not measure the drivesahft angle before taking the Jeep apart, sorry. That would have been a good idea to see how much they increased. I'm sure they are steeper than stock now, obviously. No vibes coming from the rear at all, so the ujoint angles should be close enough. I'll have to see if the front shaft vibrates at all when I get it in. Not much I'll be able to do about it if so without adjustable arms.




A shot of the shaft is on page 1. I pulled it from a V8 WJ in the junkyard. Cost me $42, complete with the yoke. It is a bit shorter than the 4.0 version, so you lose some spline engagement. But I've read that some guys run them on the 4.0 so I'm hoping it works out ok. I'm not planning any hardcore crawling with the WJ, just camping and exploring, so as long as it's good at highway speeds and gets me around in the snow, it should be fine.

Thanks guys!

Just gonna make sure you knew that.
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Unread 07-26-2013, 10:35 PM   #24
DavisI
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Looks good. I really like your roof rack setup, might have to steal that one from you
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Unread 07-31-2013, 07:54 AM   #25
PeteYJTJ
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Ok, my build rolls on, with some (not so) huge advances. A DIY hitch step.

1) Take some scrap 2" tube from work. (We cut them into longer lengths, and any 1-foot or so lengths remaining get dumped. I take some home.)

2) Trim the ends and bend them up to make a stylish shape. This also seals the ends of the tube from water.

3) Clamp the ends, and weld / grind / weld / grind.... And weld / grind again if you're a poor welder like me. Until they look decent.

4) Use your mag square to weld the tubes together. Weld / grind again until you're happy with it. The first weld in step 3 is really just cosmetic, but this weld needs to have at least 'some' penetration, so try to do your best.

5) Drill a 1/2" hole and use a bolt and nyloc nut to secture it to the hitch.

6) Paint it satin black and put anti-skid tape on top.

Now I can reach up into the Rola rack to put in stuff. Granted my welding isn't awesome, but my tech-school evening welding class allowed me to make welds with my 110v Lincoln MIG130 that didn't look too bad. It'll hold 200-300 pounds for me and whatever gear I'm loading.

Sure, you can buy a step for $30 probably, but I'd rather make my own.

Next up - front and rear off-road lights mounted to the rack, and the tire goes up top.

Pete
cut-tube.jpg   clamp-tube.jpg   weld-tube.jpg   noskid-tape.jpg   step-done.jpg  

step-wj.jpg  
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Unread 07-31-2013, 08:14 AM   #26
Zacedward
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That's a way good idea Pete
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Unread 08-22-2013, 07:21 AM   #27
PeteYJTJ
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Pete scores a Berserk Iceland winch bumper!!!!!

Man, this thing is too cool. I couldn't find a confirmed real price that these things went for when you could buy them - someone probably knows - but I've seen it reported at $750-$1100. Assuming that's an accurate range, I'd say I got for 1/2 price or less - cheap enough for me. It's got all the parts, brackets, etc., most of the hardware - missing a bolt or 2. And it has the cool "Go Berserk" tag.

I know some of you don't like the fiberglass part of this design, but I don't plan to hard-core rock crawl in the WJ -- it's an Expedition-type build. But I do want a winch, and keeping weight down is a good thing.

I had thought of making my own mount, like this guy, but more "stylish", if you will:

http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33553

Personally I think that approach is way cool, and it was my plan. But when the Berserk came up I couldn't pass it up.

Here's a few shots. It needs a good cleaning, and sanding and a few cans of krylon, but in time it'll look great on the WJ. I will need to do the cut on the top to go with a winch also, and cut the front for the hawse. I plan synthetic winch rope to also help keep weight down.

The WJ is coming together nicely. More updates as I get to working on it. I need to do a few things to my YJ to get it ready for 2 wheeling trips this Fall, so it may be a month or so before I get on the WJ.

Pretty pleased with the bumper though.

Pete
bumper1.jpg   bumper2.jpg   bumper3.jpg  
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Unread 02-03-2014, 12:46 AM   #28
fayceoff
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I'm definitely gonna try a system like yours when I get around to adding a roof basket. Lots of nice work there.
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Unread 02-04-2014, 09:30 AM   #29
PeteYJTJ
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Hey Thanks fayceoff. I'm really digging the WJ. I never got the winch bumper on before winter but the Jeep is doing great. Spring is coming.....

Pete
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Unread 04-12-2014, 02:32 AM   #30
CHULOGORDO82
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where did you get the bumoper from a store or member?
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