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Unread 08-31-2013, 11:22 AM   #31
Ravie
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 1,219
Had to take a mandatory break from wrenching for large amounts of blood loss due to busted hands.. right between my pinky and ring finger knuckles.

It's funny cause it only hurt when I bashed it. I figured I'd keep working and it'd be no big deal...until my hand was covered in blood.

By the time I got into the house my pants were soaked...

Fun times. I'll be back out in a bit.

I was gonna add a pic but the forum officially sucks about attaching phone pics.

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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 08-31-2013, 08:18 PM   #32
Ravie
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Location: Topeka, KS
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Here we are.

I began around 8 this morning. I went out to all of the regular stores...Home Depot, Orcheln's, Menards... No one had anything I could use as a rear sway bar spacer. More on that later...

So, once I got home I decided to tackle the fronts first. I didn't even have a plan of attack other than basically...undo the top shock bolts, lift Jeep as high as I can get it (oh, so, a bit of digression here...I have an AC Delco 2 ton jack. Don't buy one. Mine broke several times today because of a HORRIBLE design flaw.) and started taking things apart. I removed the wheels (of course), lower shock bolts, pulled out the springs, disco'd the sway bar and went on to replacing the upper control arms. It was a massive pain in the *** getting that stuff lined up. The drivers side wasn't "horrible" but the passenger side was.

It was about this time that, in an attempt to shove the axle and the arm in a way that I could put the bolt in, my implement slipped and caused me to punch the axle. Great, no big deal, shake it off an keep going, right? Of course not....or I wouldn't be telling you about it....

I notice a little blood and figure it's nothing, so I go back to work...when suddenly I noticed my hand is COVERED in blood. I shove my hand onto my work shorts (just crappy torn up shorts I use for bummin around and working on stuff...I have a couple of these..) and by the time I get into the house to wash up and get fixed, my pants are SOKED all the way through my shorts, boxers, and onto my leg. Mind you it's a short walk.



So it turns out that whatever I hit, cut through ALL the layers of my skin between my pinky and ring finger knuckles, where I think there may be a small vein... I tired doing a band-aid and wear a nitrile glove, but that only lasted about two minutes before I was bleeding again, so while my wife was out shopping I had her get me some liquid band-aid. I used that and only had minor issues all day. Much better. Who needs stitches!

So I get the crusty isolators off to find out the passenger side no longer has a top...



I cleaned it up anyway. I don't have a welder and I'm planning on an axle swap before too long anyway, so I'm not too worried about it.



The driver's side wasn't much better.



to be continued in next post....
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 08-31-2013, 08:41 PM   #33
Ravie
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So, I got the upper arms in and left them a bit loose so I could torque them at "neutral stance." I got the new isos on and springs in without too much issue and put the wheels back on. MMmMm, much higher already...



As bad as my isos looked and I probably needed to replace them, it didn't net me any more inches all said and done..that to come...

I moved on to the back which went quite a bit more smoothly, though getting the trailing arms bolts off was pretty hard. Remember, I'm not working with air. Unless you count the two fans I had going while I was working... yeah....

I just realized I didn't take a single picture of anything on the rear. The spring perches looked like crap, but a TINY bit better than the fronts I wire brushed a sh** out of them and got the new isos on, springs in, shocks installed, etc... For future reference since NONE of us seem to know this when doing our first lift...the rears go on opposit the front shocks. The "stem" is pointing down rather than up. Just wanted to put that in there in case someone sees this thread searching later.

I had to bungee up the rear sway bar and run diso'd since I didn't have spacers made.

I got everything back together, dropped it down, and torqued all of the control arms and trailing arms.

Then I went for a test drive, with the idea I'd find somewhere to flex...



Yeah, sorry about that... couldn't find anywhere good. This stuff was really loose and the higher I wanted to go up the more shoved in I got... I tried finding something better but the rocks at the park were too high and the other park I went to is freaking CLOSED due to construction. Don't get me wrong, I could have easily driven in there....but I didn't need to cause any trouble on a test drive.

So Here's one before pic of the passenger front tire..



A whole 18 1/4" high.

I didn't take any real good before pictures, but I think we all know how low these standards get... 9I mean, non up-country, etc..) especially at 207k and 14 years old..

So without further ado.. here's some pics of the final. Rear disco'd (boy is that ever a new driving experience! talk about aRTicULaTion! actually it wasn't bad. Definitely different though.)








I started with 18 1/4" in the front and 18 7/8" or so in the rear.
I ended with 20 1/2" in the front and 21 3/4" or so in the rear.

It's amazing how only 2 inches makes such a HUGE difference. It's like...before I just "got into" my Jeep. Now I get up into my Jeep.

Boy I tell ya, even disco'd in the back it's night and day. Bumps are recovered from immediately. No bounce. LOVE that.

Now to find trails to play with.....
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 08-31-2013, 08:59 PM   #34
Ravie
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Parts and vendors used:

Rock Auto:

- Moog isolators. They have a long standing price misprint and one of them (I forget which) is listed for 1.78 or something. NICE quality.
- Upper and lower front control arms (I did the fronts last year actually)
- Rear Trailing arms (I guess they could be called control arms, too.)

(I use RockAuto constantly. They consistently have significantly better prices than local stores, fast shipping, and just about any brand name or generic you could possibly ever want/need.)

Kolak:

- Bilstein 5125 shocks.

(fast shipping, awesome price, nice guy, amazing shock. Thanks, Nick!)

Fat Bob's Garage:

- Fat Bob's (actually BDS for FB's) 2" Coil Springs

(VERY nice sales guy. Quick shipping. Gave me 10$ off for being a forum member...I did make sure to ask.)
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 09-10-2013, 05:01 PM   #35
Ravie
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Been running disco'd in the back since the lift. Went and got 2 pieces of 2x2 4" long of square tube from a welding place. Tried to take the bolts out of the sway bar brackets which was near impossible so I drilled a couple of small holes above the nut heads so I could spray some penetrant down into the threads. (one for the light, other to spray). Hopefully that does the trick.
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 09-11-2013, 09:09 PM   #36
Ravie
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This must be the most boring build thread ever. Sorry guys.

Fabbed up the 2x2 spacers for the sway bar brackets this afternoon/evening. The holes are 2 7/16" apart and one of them gets elongated.

I hit them with a couple of coats of Rustoleum black and baked them in the oven for about 25 minutes at 300 degrees then cooled them with tap water. Good as gold.

This job was terrible. Even with a half inch breaker bar I could hardly get the bolts loose. It REALLY sucks not having an air compressor. I had to heat them several times, and I had to drill two access holes per side so I could spray atf/acetone on the bolts/nuts. I had to work them back and forth several times... It was WAY harder than it should have been. I used brand new bolts there and made sure to coat them with anti-seize before they went in, as well as dremel cut a "self-tap" feature in a few of the top threads. It worked though and she's back together.

It was too late for a test drive but I'm sure it will be swell. At least I'm back to "normal" now.

Rav
1275714_10151904571674680_329528140_o.jpg  
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 09-12-2013, 08:25 AM   #37
JeepNicholson
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravie View Post
This must be the most boring build thread ever. Sorry guys.

Fabbed up the 2x2 spacers for the sway bar brackets this afternoon/evening. The holes are 2 7/16" apart and one of them gets elongated.

I hit them with a couple of coats of Rustoleum black and baked them in the oven for about 25 minutes at 300 degrees then cooled them with tap water. Good as gold.

This job was terrible. Even with a half inch breaker bar I could hardly get the bolts loose. It REALLY sucks not having an air compressor. I had to heat them several times, and I had to drill two access holes per side so I could spray atf/acetone on the bolts/nuts. I had to work them back and forth several times... It was WAY harder than it should have been. I used brand new bolts there and made sure to coat them with anti-seize before they went in, as well as dremel cut a "self-tap" feature in a few of the top threads. It worked though and she's back together.

It was too late for a test drive but I'm sure it will be swell. At least I'm back to "normal" now.

Rav
Nah, not boring, just watching quietly!
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Unread 09-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #38
Ravie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNicholson View Post
Nah, not boring, just watching quietly!
Well, you pass, anyway. lol


Next steps: Ordered 3/4" spacers for the front from Scott (dahrkstorm) today. That'll really improve that horrible rake...

I'm borrowing a welder from a friend for a while. I'm planning on a tank tuck and a roof rack from scratch. I only have at MOST 5 inches of clearance from the top of my rear roof rail to the bottom of the garage door, though our garage door is NOT going up as far as it could be and I'm not sure how to remedy that.

The rack will be square stock. Probably 1 inch. I plan to block the front of it sideways with some sheet metal to keep the wind out of whatever's up there and eventually I'll mount some lights on it, too.

My brother-in-law and I are talking a lot about starting a custom metal fab business together, so I'm keeping my ears to the ground about what kinds of things people need that aren't already out there. I have a few ideas already. He's a world class welder with cad and lathe experience, and I'm an automotive tech with some welding and machine shop experience. Between the two of us I think we can come up with some stuff to rival what's already out there. We'll see what the future holds!

Oh and one more thing: People buy quick discos they can pull pins out of... Why not just drill a hole in the stock bolt and use a cotter pin and a castle nut? Seems easier to me. Finger tight and a cotter pin would probably do just fine...Just a thought.
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 09-13-2013, 07:46 AM   #39
Ravie
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 1,219
Random post:

I just saw a list a guy made in the WJ forum about how he wanted to get rid of his WJ because of all that he'd replaced, etc...and it made me wonder what all I've replaced and what I still have to do (this list will be updated when I think of things...).. SO....

Replaced/Fixed:
New Heater Core
New Limited Style Headlights
Crank Sensor (OEM Mopar from stealership)
Brake Booster
Rebuilt engine:
Silv-o-Lite cast pistons(STD), with moly rings, resized rods
New Stock Camshaft(and timing set), New Lifters, valve lap, new guide seals, head surface
Melling High Volume oil pump, other things I'm sure I'm forgetting
Transmission fluid/Filter
Transfer case fluid
Cooling System flush when rebuild happened (didn't use HOAT though)
All new Centric premium ceramic pads, Raybestos rotors, and Centric hoses.
Moog Trail Boss Steering Stablizer
Moog outer tie rods (only the lower outers, will do the others when I have more money)
Bilstein 5125 shocks
FB/BDS 2" coil springs
New Moog Isolators
3/4" Front spacers from Dahrkstorm (Scott)
New Upper and Lower front stock control arms
New Rear trailing/control arms
2" rear custom sway bar spacers
New IAC Valve
Removable rear seat mod done
245/75/16 Cooper AT3's
Raybestos Ball joints
Rear Omix-Ada upper Ball joint
Replace front and rear axles with Vari-Loc D30 3.73 and rear D44 to match
Front Double Cardan Driveshaft
4" Tank Tuck


To Do:

Rust Bullet coating on underside
Roof Rack
Rear bumper and tire carrier with integrated receiver.
Front brush gaurd with Fawkes gear
Rock rails
Front radiator area skid
Kolak Exhaust w/high-flow cat.


Lots done, lots to do.
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
Burlbook48 sez "Nothing moves a project along faster than cubic dollars." Certified Thread Killer.

Last edited by Ravie; 09-21-2013 at 12:04 PM.. Reason: I keep adding things!
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Unread 09-13-2013, 05:47 PM   #40
Ravie
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So, I just checked my gas mileage by the numbers with a calculator for the first time since i've owned my WJ.

All of these miles are in 40mph and lower speed zones with lots of stop lights and A/C on, POST lift.

16.66mpg!

Not bad. Not bad t'all
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 09-16-2013, 07:31 PM   #41
Ravie
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I got my 3/4" spacers from Scott today and put them in this evening..

Now sitting at about 21" in the front and about 21 7/8" in the back. I can never get all the same measurements but they're close to that anyway... The drivers side is higher than the passenger side and I have a feeling I forgot to index the bottom of the drivers side shock in the spring seat and that's why the measurement was a bit higher on that side.. maybe not. I dunno.

Side note:

Does anyone know if a person can adjust headlights OUT/IN, or is it just UP/DOWN? My drivers side seems to be pointing in more than I'd like. Maybe they designed it that way, I dunno.
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 09-17-2013, 10:45 AM   #42
bugaboots
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I just adjusted my lights last night and couldn't find any in/out adjustment.
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1995 Cherokee 4.0 Stock(for now)
2002 Grand Cherokee Sport, OME HD lift, Bilstien 5100's, 63mm Bored t-body, IRO 2.5 exaust, 245/75/16 Revo2, Front tow hooks, 4.6L long rod stroker, Factory Jeep brush gaurd
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Unread 09-21-2013, 12:11 PM   #43
Ravie
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Yeah I didn't think so. They're okay I suppose. At some point when I finally do something to the front I'll add lights. I think eventually I want to make my own skidplate and bull-bar and incorporate them together, rather than getting an expensive proto-fab or similar unit. It seems to me the most protection needed up there is the radiator and evaporator, and maybe the headlights. I don't know. I won't be getting to that point for a long time. Unlike what seems like most of the guys on the forum, I have nearly no money as well as no metal laying around,etc...so getting things done takes me a LONG time just because I can't afford to go all-in very fast. It's gonna take at least another year before my WJ is up to where I want it to be.
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1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
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Unread 09-23-2013, 07:28 AM   #44
bugaboots
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I know the feeling, it took me a year to get mine running and on the road.
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1995 Cherokee 4.0 Stock(for now)
2002 Grand Cherokee Sport, OME HD lift, Bilstien 5100's, 63mm Bored t-body, IRO 2.5 exaust, 245/75/16 Revo2, Front tow hooks, 4.6L long rod stroker, Factory Jeep brush gaurd
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Unread 10-13-2013, 04:12 PM   #45
Ravie
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Holy alignment, batman...

Replaced the tie rods last weekend and did my own alignment... I didn't really notice any issues in town, but I got on I-70 today and OHMYGAWD. little left, little right, little left, little right....the whole time... the back end was swaying around and I had to correct constantly, especially above like 65.

It wants to justify a little bit right, and obviously something isn't jiving front to back...maybe not enough toe in or something...

I think next paycheck I'll take it in. I really don't have the patience to get it right.
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