We're finally settling in the NEW house. It was the house I grew up in, and the garage I've used for the past 20 years. We're also headed to court against the owners of the flooded house for fraud.
The Jeep's still on my **** list. The trans had issues of putting itself in reverse while driving (locking up the rear wheels), and was diagnosed as a Shift Solenoid issue. To save some cash, I bought a transmission from a salvage yard for $150. We put it in, and it had the EXACT SAME ISSUE. I took the unit back, and as we left the yard (2 hours away) my Tracker quit running and hasn't started since. I exchanged the bad trans for a younger, lower mileage unit, and we got it installed-and it's in limp mode. We had to try 4 times to get the DRB-III emulator to force it out of limp mode and perform the "Quick Learn" procedure.
On my test drive of the latest transmission install, 1/8th of a mile from the house I started getting a clicking noise. I eased it back to the house, pulled the rear drive shaft (front one wasn't even put back in yet), and put it in drive. I found the clicking to be coming from the transfer case. Whew! I thought I was going to have to throw a transmission at someone.
I then pulled the tcase and started to tear into it. As soon as I got the rear seal off, two pieces of a snap ring fell out into my hands. This snap ring holds the main, rear output shaft in place. Without this ring in there, I was able to slide the shaft in and out (giggety) about 1/8th of an inch. On a rampage, I tried finding the snap ring. Jeep discontinued the part, so after searching and searching, I found it at a client of mine who does mechanical stuff. Putting the ring in, I still had clicking when turning the input by hand.
I kept tearing into the case and discovered that the planetary gears on the input shaft were binding and causing the clicking. This is the case that I built almost 3 years ago, using a 242 from an I6 w/71k miles on it, and the input shaft from my dead 247 with 200k+ miles on it. I figure the trans slamming into reverse, locking up the rear wheels is what caused the extra wear in these gears.
The next morning I was off to the closest salvage yard. I grabbed a 242HD for $275 with 62k miles on it. I got it in pretty quick (getting good at this now), and hooked up the front drive shaft, and filled her full of fresh fluid. (proper yoke already on it yay!). No rear drive shaft, since my setup was the I6 frankenstein unit, and the yard didn't have the one I needed.
With my front wheel drive Jeep, I took off to test the 2nd replacement transmission that I installed last weekend, and my new tcase. About 2 miles down the road, I got a check engine light and it's stuck in limp mode again. (2nd and 3rd gear only). The only code I'm pulling is P1728, which is a Chrysler specific code for "2C Hydraulic Pressure Switch Circuit". I'm hoping that it's the "Governor Pressure Transducer" that others have found it to be, and not anything major. Of course no parts stores stock this item, so it's going to be ebay or a trip to the dealer. I knew I should've kept all the sensors off the transmissions I took back to the salvage yard. (the 1st purchase and my core). It also slammed once or twice as well, and I noticed some binding/cracking coming from my driver's side front wheel area. Let's hope that's just a CV issue.
Any input on the P1728 /2C Hydraulic Pressure Switch Circuit issue would be most appreciated.
I still have the IRO tcase skid, waiting to be installed. I also now need my yearly safety inspection sticker. While spending so much time under the Jeep recently, I've discovered that my rockers are half rotted out, so hopefully before winter, we'll cut those out and weld in boat-sides for sliders.
So, the dealer said $80 and 5 days to get the Governor Pressure Transducer. I grabbed a whole set of external sensors (the Transducer plus both input/output speed sensors) for $90 from ebay, which should be here by Friday. Let's hope I can drive this muhfugga this weekend. I'm sick of working on it.
Since I had already ordered them, today I replaced both input and output speed sensors, as well as the Governor Pressure Transducer. It was a little better, but after coming to a stop, it went back into limp mode. Back with the P1767.
Keep in mind that this IS the replacement trans. I've also in the past 5000 miles replaced the TPS and crank sensors. My original trans (269k) would buzz a LOT (shift solenoid) and randomly throw itself in reverse--locking the wheels up. I replaced it, and the replacement unit did the exact same thing. This is the SECOND replacement, and while it's in limp mode, throwing codes, it's in better shape (86k) than the one I started with--that NEVER threw any codes.