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Unread 04-22-2012, 01:24 PM   #136
narnwv
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Well, Wednesday I replaced that stupid rear upper ball joint. I went to warranty it out at AAP, and they didn't have one in stock. They called another store and told them that I had a TRW one, and to check their inventory. All they had was a Moog part, and he swapped me out even I pressed it back into the plate and thought all was well. Thursday on my way home from work, I had some tail wag, and the rattle was back. As I pulled into the driveway, the whole rear end shifted, and I thought the ball joint was trashed already. I went to look, and the ball joint had pressed itself out of the plate :shock: I pulled it all out once again (I'm a pro at this now), and took it to "Night Shift Auto" here in Nitro to have them weld the ball joint into the plate. (it was ~8:30pm, and I don't have a welder, or the skill). $20 later, and it was one piece. Forever.

I wish I would've taken pictures before putting it back in, as these were the nicest welds I've ever seen.

Friday, on my way home from work, I kept smelling brakes. By the time I pulled into the driveway, my rear driver's caliper was seized. I bought one, as well as both rear drum-rotors (they needed replaced anyways, new park brake shoes didn't work, even when adjusted properly). I warranty'd out the rear pads, and just left the shoes as they were replaced when we did the lift a month ago.

Stops on a dime, and no rear rattles anymore.

Maybe if crap will stop falling apart, I can get some more mods done. I really really really want the Iron Rock rear upper arm to fully do away with that stupid ball joint, and the near EOL bushings on the other end of that upper arm. I'd like to also get adjustable rear lowers with that adjustable upper, so I can push the rear axle back about an inch. That way, I won't have to trim the rear quite yet. I'd like adjustable front upper control arms, but I think I'm just going to do front long arms later this summer.

I need to take care of my overheating issue as well. It's fine until the ambient outside temp is ~80* or higher, and running the A/C speeds up the process. I do have air in my system that I can't seem to shake. I hear rushing water in the heater core upon cold start, but bleeding and bleeding the system, it comes back within a week or so. Probably need to replace the heater core and hoses/pipes, as everything else has already been replaced last summer.

Just
Empty
Every
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Unread 04-28-2012, 09:51 PM   #137
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Drove 450 miles yesterday. It was about 60 degrees out, a few good hills. I did the AZC trick to view actual engine temp, and she stayed 208-213 all day, up to 217 when climbing long hills from 55mph to 85mph.

My GPS speedometer counted about 40 miles more than the odometer. After using the GPS distance, I averaged about 17mpg. Not too shabby for the speed I was running, at 4" with 32" mud tires on.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 09:57 PM   #138
narnwv
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Today I installed a couple pieces of chrome pipe with an air filter to make a hot air intake. Gotta make some sort of shroud for it, but I need the stock airbox out of the way for my air compressor and washer bottle.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:09 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
Drove 450 miles yesterday. It was about 60 degrees out, a few good hills. I did the AZC trick to view actual engine temp, and she stayed 208-213 all day, up to 217 when climbing long hills from 55mph to 85mph.

My GPS speedometer counted about 40 miles more than the odometer. After using the GPS distance, I averaged about 17mpg. Not too shabby for the speed I was running, at 4" with 32" mud tires on.
What is that AZC trick? Ive never heard of being able to do that, but it sure would be nice!
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:15 PM   #140
narnwv
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Push and hold A/C and Recycle, and turn the driver's side temp knob clockwise one "bump". Scroll up to 65, 66, 67. One is engine speed divided by 100, one is vehicle speed, one is actual engine temp.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:17 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
Push and hold A/C and Recycle, and turn the driver's side temp knob clockwise one "bump". Scroll up to 65, 66, 67. One is engine speed divided by 100, one is vehicle speed, one is actual engine temp.
Nice! Thank you!
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:41 PM   #142
billzcat1
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Is there a reference for what-all the AZC will output for you? While it seems weird that the climate control would be the place this displays (as opposed to the cluster or EVIC), I suppose with CAN-BUS anything is possible.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:52 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
Is there a reference for what-all the AZC will output for you? While it seems weird that the climate control would be the place this displays (as opposed to the cluster or EVIC), I suppose with CAN-BUS anything is possible.
PCI bus in a WJ there buddy.

From the FSM:








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Last edited by narnwv; 04-28-2012 at 10:56 PM.. Reason: adding more
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:57 PM   #144
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updated last post for the page before the list, which has the instructions.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 10:57 PM   #145
billzcat1
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Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
PCI bus in a WJ there buddy.
I've been such a fool!
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Unread 04-29-2012, 07:03 PM   #146
narnwv
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Got pics of my warm air intake. The chrome pieces are plastic, not metal, so that's a relief. I think i want to add one straight extension to it, but we'll see. I cleared all kinds of room for my OBA compressor and a washer tank.













I think it's actually higher than the stock intake (which was full of mud--1/8").
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Unread 04-29-2012, 08:54 PM   #147
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What kinda OBA do you have?? Im wanting one.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 12:17 AM   #148
billzcat1
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I'd really like to do something along those lines but I'm not willing to give up factory-grade filtration to do so. Getting rid of the airbox makes so much more room under there! So far the best idea I've had is to use a Buick airbox and relocate the inlet to the cowl, but cutting the 3" hole in the firewall to do so is going to be tricky.

Just a heads up, a lot of the cheaper compressors out there don't like to be mounted under the hood what with all the heat and all. If you're using an MV50, plan on it dying shortly after mounting.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 09:29 AM   #149
narnwv
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Harbor freight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
I'd really like to do something along those lines but I'm not willing to give up factory-grade filtration to do so. Getting rid of the airbox makes so much more room under there! So far the best idea I've had is to use a Buick airbox and relocate the inlet to the cowl, but cutting the 3" hole in the firewall to do so is going to be tricky.

Just a heads up, a lot of the cheaper compressors out there don't like to be mounted under the hood what with all the heat and all. If you're using an MV50, plan on it dying shortly after mounting.
I religiously change my oil at 3000 miles, so I'm going to keep an eye on it. I'd like to build something to house an air filter, and attach to a snorkel at some point.

Here is the compressor I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...sor-66399.html

I got it for $35 with all the coupons and sidewalk sales they have. I paid $3 for a 3 year warranty on it, so if it dies, I'll just warranty it out. They're also pretty cheap to replace if I absolutely have to.

The last ride we went on, I aired down to 16psi, and this compressor filled 3 of them back up to 36 before the internal shut-off kicked it off due to heat. I considered a second compressor, so I could use one for each pair of tires, but we'll see. Once I mount it, I'm going to add a 120mm computer fan to the end of it to keep air flowing over it while it's running.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 12:07 PM   #150
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If it craps out on you, check out the MV-50/MF-1050/rebranded as a Smittybilt compressor. As far as cheap ones go, it can't be beat. It always airs up at least 8 tires on every trip, usually my 30s and then the 32s on my buddy's disco. The most it's done is 10 consecutive but it didn't shut off even then. It does get hot but doesn't ever shut down.

I think 36 psi might be a little high on those 32s too. Just thinking out loud on that one. Do you know the load rating (in lbs) and an estimate of your vehicle weight (loaded)? We can calculate your recommended pressure from there.
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