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Unread 06-04-2013, 10:04 AM   #1
wxmanWJ
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 252
My first Jeep owning adventure - the wxman WJ build thread!

So I finally made it happen and picked myself up a 2000 WJ 4.7 with Quadradrive. You can read about my buying adventure here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...nture-1500848/


A little about the Jeep:
It had 127,000 miles on the clock at purchase and was a 1 owner Jeep. Completely stock and never modified. It has the factory tow package on it, and factory accessories include front tow hooks, Jeep floor mats and rear cargo tray, skid plate group, and engine block heater. NO Upcountry suspension though. I will probably make some changes to that down the road. Build sheet and progress/plans so far below!

Build Sheet:
Code:
Vehicle Description JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED 4X4 SPORT UTILITY 4-DR
Model Year 2000
Body Model WJ J P 74
Color PTH- Champagne Pearl Coat
In Service Date  01/19/2000

Sales Code     Description

DL Prem Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats
K5 Camel
ADBS Protection Group
ADEP Cold Weather Group
ADL Skid Plate Group
AFFS Luxury Group
AHX Trailer Tow Group IV
APAS Monotone Paint
ARPS Limited Decor Group
ATA Radio - Cass/10-Disc./Infinity Spkrs
AWB Quadra-Drive II (R) 4WD System
AWSS Smoker's Group
A29P 4.7L Engine(EVA)/4Spd A/T 45RFE(DG4)
BAZS 136 Amp Alternator
BC6S 625 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BRYS Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
CACS Low Back Bucket Seats
CBWS Highline Door Trim Panel
CFNS Rear 60/40 Folding Seat
CGWS Next Generation Front Air Bags
CKDS Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKRP Cargo Net
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CLEP Front & Rear Floor Mats
CLGS Covered Cargo Storage
CLPS Driver Foot Rest
CSCP Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUDS Mini Overhead Console
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DG4S Multi-Speed Auto 45RFE Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHFS Quadra-Trac II On Demand 4WD System
DJJS Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRKP Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle
DSBP Vari-Lok Progressive Front Axle
DSCP Vari-Lok Progressive Rear Axle
EAAC All Engines
EVA 4.7L V8 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEGS Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
GEPS Flipper Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNCS Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GNKP Rear View Auto Dim Mirror
GT3S Power Heat Driver Auto Dim Mirrors
GWAP Power Sunroof
GXMS Remote Keyless Entry
GXXS Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
HAFS Air Cond ATC w/Dual Zone Control
HGAS Hood Insulation
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAP Cigar Lighter
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JJJP 12V Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet
JKAS Glove Box
JKPS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JKYS Power Accessory Delay
JPBS Power Locks
JPDS Power Windows, Driver One-Touch
JTFP Power 10-Way Heated Memory Seats
KEDS Lt. Quartz - Paint Stripe - Bodyside
K4JS EXTERIOR COMPONENT COLOR
LACS Illuminated Entry
LAGS Warning Chime
LAZP Vehicle Information Center
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LBDS Ash Tray Lamp
LCBS Door Courtesy Lamps
LCES Rear Courtesy/Reading Lamps
LDAS Underhood Lamp
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LETP Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
LEWS Radio/Driver Seat/Mirror Memory
LMBS Halogen Headlamps
LMGP Automatic Headlamps
LNJS Fog Lamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
LSAS Security Alarm
MDAP Front License Plate Bracket
MFTS Body Color Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MVAS Limited Badge
MVBS Grand Cherokee Badge
MVCS Jeep Badge
MVDS 4X4 Badge
MVEP V-8 Badge
MWGS Side Roof Rails
MZBP Quadra Drive Badge
NAA Federal Emissions
NBHP High Altitude Emissions Tracking
NFPS 20.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHFP Power Steering Cooler
NHK Engine Block Heater
NHMS Speed Control
PTH Champagne Pearl Coat
QTHS Champagne Pearl Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RBNP AM/FM Cass Radio w/Changer Control
RCES Infinity Speakers
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
RDPP 10-Disc Remote CD Changer
RDZP Steering Wheel Mounted Audio Ctrls
SBAS Power Steering
SCLS Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SDAS Normal Duty Suspension
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TBW Full Size Spare Tire w/Matching Whl
TTB P245/70R16 OWL All Terrain Tires
TZAS Goodyear Brand Tires
WDRS 16X7.0 Lux Alum Silver Wheels
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XEAP Tow Hooks
XEEP Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFP Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEUP Front Suspension Skid Plate
XGDP Universal Garage Door Opener
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
Fixes/upgrades/mods so far:
My preferred products
  • Redline 75w-140 synthetic gear oil (Gallon size - Amazon)
  • Valvoline ATF+4 (Quart size, O'reilly Auto Parts local store)
  • Wix transmission filter kit (p/n 58843 Amazon)
  • Napa Gold oil filter (extended size) (p/n 1515 - Napa local store)
  • MOPAR NV247 transfer case fluid (Quart size - Amazon)
  • Zerex G-05 coolant (Gallon size - Napa local store)
  • Strongarm rear liftgate glass struts (p/n 4528 - Amazon)
  • Timken front pinion seal for Dana 30 (p/n 5778 - Autozone local store)
  • JGC Parts CenterTEC sV.2 dash tweeters (JGC Parts Tweeters)
  • 3M Black super weatherstrip adhesive (p/n 08008 - Amazon)
  • Lube Locker Dana 30 differential cover seal (p/n LLR-D030 - Amazon)
  • Front CV axles for WJ 4.7 with Dana 30 and Quadradrive (Kolak)
  • Firestone Destination LE/2 tires (Firestone local store)
  • National seal front axle shaft seal (p/n 710068 - O'reilly Auto Parts local store)
  • Napa Gold in line fuel filter (p/n 3929 - Napa local store)
  • Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic 5W-30 motor oil (5 gallon size, Wal-mart local store)
  • Valvoline DOT 3/4 brake fluid (32 oz. size, Advance Auto Parts local store)
  • Valvoline power steering fluid (MS5391, quart size, Advance Auto Parts local store)
  • Nokya Arctic Yellow fog lamps size 9005 (p/n NOK-7611, Amazon)
  • Champion 439 copper spark plugs (p/n 439, Napa local store)
  • BWD PCV valve (p/n PCV476, Advance Auto Parts local store)
  • MOPAR ignition coil o-ring kit (p/n 5015297AA, Kolak)
  • Permatex dielectric grease (p/n 22058, Napa local store)
  • Strongarm hood lift struts (p/n 4048, Amazon)
  • Dorman window regulator (p/n 741-552, Amazon)
  • D44a Axle seal, bearing, bearing retainer, and seal retainer (Kolak)
  • Spicer rear axle shaft with bearing, seal, and retainer (p/n 76454-1X, Amazon)
  • MiCoche yellow door panel clips for MY2003-2004 (Amazon)
  • CRC Disc Brake Quiet (p/n 05016, Amazon)
  • CRC Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease (p/n 5351, Amazon)
  • Motive power brake bleeder with Chrysler adapter (p/n 0103, Jegs)
  • Valvoline DOT3/4 brake fluid (Advance Auto Parts local store)
  • Black Magic front and rear brake pads (Black Magic Website)
  • Centric Premium front and rear rotors (p/n front: 120.67042 rear: 120.67043, Amazon)
  • AC Delco parking brake hardware kit (p/n 18K1027, Amazon)
  • Raybestos service grade parking brake shoes (p/n 807SG, Amazon)

Used Parts
  • Front driveshaft with single/double cardan end (rebuilt)
  • Driver door module
  • Driver auto dim heated mirror
  • Driver door harness wiring

Plans/Future upgrades
  • Upcountry springs/new isolators/Bilstein 4600
  • Fix rear 12V cargo area power outlet
  • Pull HVAC codes and see what's going on. I am afraid my recirc and/or blend doors have failed (expected)
  • Clean throttle body and IAC
  • Replace broken shifter bezel
  • Fawkes front MiniMax cross tube
  • 242HD swap
  • 245-75-16 tires

Things I'm monitoring
  • Power steering fluid leak (slow)
  • Oil pressure sender/valve cover gaskets (common to fail)

My preferred shops


Last edited by wxmanWJ; 06-05-2013 at 04:10 PM..
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Unread 06-05-2013, 03:16 PM   #2
ellenberger
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: , pa
Posts: 28
Just wondering how much you paid cause i'm looking at a 99 grand Friday.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 03:32 PM   #3
wxmanWJ
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellenberger View Post
Just wondering how much you paid cause i'm looking at a 99 grand Friday.
I sent you a PM.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 03:43 PM   #4
Double E
2000 Laredo V8
 
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,694
No wires, cap or rotor. It's a coil on plug system.

Do the TB cleanout yourself. (super easy & minimal tools needed.)

No timing belt. Only a chain that is supposed to last the life of the vehicle. Drive belt, yes. Replace that every 70K miles or so.

The PS hose is probably leaking, not the cooler.

New front DS is common and good that it was replaced. Repeat in 100K miles if it's used primarily in a temperate climate with low/no salt use.

Swap the oil pressure sending unit yourself.

Fuel injectors are rarely an issue. Run some Techron through it at each oil change and you're good.

It should be on its second set of shocks if OEM were used as replacements. (DO NOT use OEM replacement shocks, they are expensive and leak in <30K miles) It's also DIY and super sick easy to change them. Use any brand you see people are happy with.

Be ready for a radiator replacement if it has not already occurred. It can be DIY for someone with a little experience turning wrenches.
__________________
2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 06-05-2013, 03:59 PM   #5
wxmanWJ
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Double E View Post
No wires, cap or rotor. It's a coil on plug system.

Do the TB cleanout yourself. (super easy & minimal tools needed.)

No timing belt. Only a chain that is supposed to last the life of the vehicle. Drive belt, yes. Replace that every 70K miles or so.

The PS hose is probably leaking, not the cooler.

New front DS is common and good that it was replaced. Repeat in 100K miles if it's used primarily in a temperate climate with low/no salt use.

Swap the oil pressure sending unit yourself.

Fuel injectors are rarely an issue. Run some Techron through it at each oil change and you're good.

It should be on its second set of shocks if OEM were used as replacements. (DO NOT use OEM replacement shocks, they are expensive and leak in <30K miles) It's also DIY and super sick easy to change them. Use any brand you see people are happy with.

Be ready for a radiator replacement if it has not already occurred. It can be DIY for someone with a little experience turning wrenches.
Doh! That's why I ask these questions. I must have been reading something about servicing the 4.0L.

Good info on the PS hose...I will inspect that. I see you have a high pressure PS hose...where did you get that?

Yeah, the front shocks have definitely been replaced (they are white and say Made in Mexico on them, but have no brand stamp). The rears were also probably replaced but those are black and look "stock". I am probably going with new spring insulators, up country springs and Bilsteins when the time comes...

What would one look for when the radiator needs replacement? Just leaking from the core or something? I guess I could keep an eye on the temp gauge too and if it starts losing it's ability to cool that's probably a good sign. Either the radiator or fan relay anyway. But with the mechanical fan if I don't hear the whoooooosh that's probably a good sign it's the relay and not the rad

Also, where did you get your rear hatchglass struts? I need some new ones too...

THANKS AGAIN for the info. I really appreciate it!
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Unread 06-05-2013, 04:28 PM   #6
Double E
2000 Laredo V8
 
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,694
PS hose that's leaking is probably the high pressure one. Dealer only item. I let them change it because I had more $ than time but I would not shy away from doing it myself on a technical level. It's a remove/replace then bleed operation but space to work is a little tight.

The radiator failing will show up in 1 of 2 ways thay you can probably already imagine: it does not cool in high-load situations (clogged) or it leaks (plastic side tanks usually fail) and the coolant resevoir level warning will light up when it drops below a certain level. Here's my experience with it:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...oo-hot-430453/

and

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...-avail-971799/

The main fan works on a mechanical "clutch" so that when the temp gets hot, the fan engages. It is always spinning when the engine is on but spins faster when the temp goes up. It has no electrical components.

There are many threads on the topic including replacement procedures for your 2000 model (I note that because there are differences in the cooling system from 2001 on that make a radiator swap more complicated.)

Hitchglass struts....I forget but will look them up tonight.

The fan relay problem is not really a 4.7 issue. That is more for the 4.0L

About the Code 52...You realize that I'm snickering at the issue and what it will take to repair, right? (I love my Laredo) but here's a hint, Google "Heater Treater".
__________________
2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 06-06-2013, 09:46 AM   #7
wxmanWJ
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 252
So the results are in.

The PS fluid leak is actually coming from the "power steering gearbox", which they told me probably will need to be replaced. They did tell me it's not leaking much so I will hold off for now. If/when I choose to have this done I will also have them swap the high pressure hose at the same time with a new one. Might as well.

Axles definitely need to be replaced. I am now debating between the reman using OEM parts the shop is offering me, and the ones that Kolak has for 1/2 the cost.

Yeah yeah, I hear you with your Laredo :P I am well aware of the blend door/recirc issues and that's why I am choosing to live with it for now. Heat and A/C seem to all work normally so that's all that matters at the moment. I do feel like it's only a matter of time though...

One thing I am concerned about is that they said my front driveshaft needs to be replaced again. Mainly they were concerned with the condition of the front CV boot on the driveshaft. I crawled under there and looked, and the boot looks fine to me so I'm confused what they think the problem might be. I guess it could be starting to dry rot and crack if ONLY the shaft itself was replaced recently. I'm almost confident the front D/S was recently replaced, but have no paperwork to verify otherwise. It looks very new with a sticker still on it. Is it possible they replaced the shaft but not the CV boot? The shop I took it to yesterday is trying to see if they can just replace the boot. Is this possible? I have very little knowledge about these things so any advice would be great.

Also any advice on my rear 12V outlet having no power?

As usual THANKS EVERYONE.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 09:54 AM   #8
Double E
2000 Laredo V8
 
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,694
Odd that the PS gearbox is leaking. Not heard of that one... I would clean the whole area up (brake partsd cleaner) and watch it to be certain myself of where it is leaking.

There's a seal on the Transfer Case side of the front drive shaft. It's actually recessed inside the brass-colored housing. It's prone to drying out & failing. Just that part can be replaced: http://www.driveshaftparts.com/cv-jo.../prod_430.html

I have not used these parts yet but I have my old one around and I may tackle it once my current one begins to fail. A new one is not cheap.

That high pressure hose isn't cheap if I remember right, so if it aint broke....

I've worked with Kolak before. He's good people.
__________________
2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 07-02-2013, 09:13 AM   #9
wxmanWJ
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 252
Dash Tweeter Replacement

First fixes are installed and working! Installed a set of speakers from JGCparts. They sound great to me, and most importantly there is no more loud buzzing coming from the dash.

Link to purchase tweeters

1. Use your handy trim popper to separate the front most dash trim:


2. Remove the five clips holding in the trim piece (2 on the ends, 3 near the center) and remove the piece from the vehicle. Here's what you're left with:


3. The speakers are held in with two screws. You can use a low angle phillips screwdriver or a 7mm socket. I used the socket:


4. Unclip the old speaker and remove. Here is the new one next to the old one:


For whatever reason the notches on the side of the new speakers were on the wrong side. In other words, the wires seemed to be soldered on the wrong side of the speaker. No worries. I just installed them the way they fit right on top of the posts the notches are supposed to go around. It's not a flush fit, but it doesn't hamper the trim piece installation and the speakers are secure. JGC parts recommends snapping these posts off but I just left them.

Second fix was new rear glass lift struts. Bought these from Amazon:

Strongarm Lift Support at Amazon

The lift struts work great and it took about 5 minutes to install them with someone holding the glass up for me.

I just picked up a new single/double U-joint driveshaft to do the conversion up front. I need to have that looked at and possibly overhauled if needed (new U-joints etc...). I also picked up a new transmission/transfer case shifter unit for the center console since mine had plastic that was all busted up and crappy looking. Needs to be installed yet but it's on the list. Jeep is running great, just slowly bringing everything up to my standards
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Unread 07-07-2013, 10:30 PM   #10
wxmanWJ
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 252
Sagging weatherstripping fix

Well I finally got around to doing something about the door weatherstripping sagging. It's happening on all four doors and I want to address it to lessen wind noise and ensure a tight seal against water. Here's a few photos about what I did.

1. Materials


- Phillips screwdriver
- Trim popper tool
- 3M weatherstripping gasket/sealant (link)
- Donor weatherstripping from any WJ (mine was from a 2001 Limited 4.7L)
- Utility knife (A hacksaw would be better here since there are metal wires running through the rubber for support).

2. Start by popping the rear plastic piece up with the trim popper:


3. Pop the other two clips out by hand. You can see what they look like here:


4. Remove the phillips screw holding the front trim piece in:


5. Gently pull this piece outward a bit up by the seatbelt. I did not remove this piece, and I'm not sure it comes off but you just need to remove the pressure on the weatherstripping:


6. Peel back the weatherstripping from the top of the door jamb around to where the plastic is still attached behind the seatbelt (toward the front of the vehicle). Then pull upward real hard on the weatherstripping to get more toward the top of the door. You should start to see the weatherstripping separate in the middle of the bottom of the door jamb:


7. Once you're done, you should have extra material at the top. Fill the material at the top with the 3M adhesive. This stuff stinks and can be messy so just go slow. You can be fairly liberal with it. I put a small amount on at first and I think I could have put a little more:


8. Measure the gap at the bottom of the door jamb and cut the same length of material from your donor strip. Mine was about 1". Put the donor piece in and call it a day!


Note the procedure will be a little different for the front doors. This was for the driver side rear passenger door.
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Unread 07-08-2013, 02:20 AM   #11
ADragg
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Looks good, why not just pull down the sagging portion and apply glue to as much of it that is loose and able to easily be pulled out enough to apply adhesive to, and then just push it back into place? Seems like a lot less work, but I'm guessing there's a reason since that's the obvious thing to do (just re-adhere the sagging portions). Unless you just really needed that extra "slack" and couldn't do what I was saying without really stretching the weatherstripping back into place and holding it while it dried, and then hoping that the adhesive would be enough to hold it under tension like that.
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3.5" lifted '03 Limited Quadra Drive WJ - OME HD coils, Bilstein 5100 shocks, JKS track bar, IRO extended links, OME 10mm spacers, Moog SS, JK Moab wheels w/ 265/70/17 (32") Goodyear Duratracs.
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Unread 07-08-2013, 06:56 AM   #12
wxmanWJ
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Thanks! Yeah that was the obvious fix and one I read about many places on the forum. In fact there is one of those "1AAUTO" DIY videos around where they do that. My issue was the corners. I could have put glue in and held it there and hoped it held the tension as high as I wanted it to, but I figure pulling the sagged stripping around and patching at the bottom was more effective. Especially when at the top of the door there is a little channel where it directs water toward the top corner (rear of door) of the door weatherstripping. I wanted the corners to be as tight as possible. This way the adhesive doesn't have to work as hard either, and just has to hold the weight of the stripping and not any tension. What you describe was definitely the easier solution but I went this route instead.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 09:40 AM   #13
1ATony
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxmanWJ View Post
Thanks! Yeah that was the obvious fix and one I read about many places on the forum. In fact there is one of those "1AAUTO" DIY videos around where they do that. My issue was the corners. I could have put glue in and held it there and hoped it held the tension as high as I wanted it to, but I figure pulling the sagged stripping around and patching at the bottom was more effective. Especially when at the top of the door there is a little channel where it directs water toward the top corner (rear of door) of the door weatherstripping. I wanted the corners to be as tight as possible. This way the adhesive doesn't have to work as hard either, and just has to hold the weight of the stripping and not any tension. What you describe was definitely the easier solution but I went this route instead.
That was my WJ in the video, all of my door seals were sagging too, so we glued them back into place. It was driving my crazy...lol

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Unread 08-12-2013, 11:05 PM   #14
wxmanWJ
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Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 252
Front driveshaft upgrade/replacement

The time has come to replace the front DS on the WJ. I had the Rzeppa/Rzeppa or whatever style and it had a failed boot on the transfer case end. I found a single u-joint front/double cardan rear front DS from a 2003 WJ in the junkyard for $80. I took it and had the ends rebuilt, and installed at a local driveline shop. Total bill for the rebuild, balance, new front pinion yoke, installation and new pinion seal installation was $400. I realize I could have had a nice Carolina or Tom Woods shaft for that price, but I would have had to pay to have it installed so I saved at least $100 going this route.

Parts used:
1. Front DS from 2003 WJ V8 Limited
2. Timken front pinion seal (part # 5778)

Notes: The driveline shop that I had do the work said this replacement was common, but that they had a different method for dealing with the transfer case side. Instead of replacing the yoke, they put a "CV Socket Yoke" (here's a link to an example of what I mean: CV Socket Yoke) inside the double cardan that bolted right to the existing transfer case yoke. BEWARE! The downside to this method is the stock DS from the 2003 WJ did NOT FIT. They shortened it slightly for me to accommodate using the socket yoke. The upside of course, is not having to replace the transfer case yoke. In hindsight I wish I would have just replaced the transfer case yoke instead, but this works and the price was reasonable.

Result: WOW! This thing is super quiet compared to my other blown out one. I hope to not have any problems from this shaft going forward. Pics below.

Old transfer case side (JUNK!):


New transfer case side:


Old differential side, note pinion seepage (JUNK!):


New differential side:


Additional pics:




One thing I am skeptical of- I am not sure this is the same driveshaft I brought the guy to begin with. The one installed is all black but the one I brought in was kind of weathered and had some rust, especially on the ends where the U-joints were. I supposed he could have powdercoated it or painted it or perhaps sandblasted it, or when you shorten the shaft maybe he painted it then, not sure. I guess I'll never really be sure until I get a chance to ask him again...either way it works great and I have zero complaints. Recommend this upgrade!!

If you are in the front range of Colorado and need drive shaft work done, I highly recommend Drive Line Service of Boulder. It is a one man operation and I was treated more than fair and the service was performed quickly and I am really impressed. It has held up well. Check them out:

Drive Line Service of Boulder
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Unread 08-13-2013, 09:06 AM   #15
alfaitalia
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bognor, West Sussex. England. Great Britain
Posts: 3,358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Double E View Post
No timing belt. Only a chain that is supposed to last the life of the vehicle.
Yeah...I gaurantee that they will last the life of the engine!!! Even if it snapped after 50k it lasted the life of the engine because once it goes the engine will probably be toast!
Always thought that was a strange claim to make as it means nothing. The one on my CRD makes the same claim!
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