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post #1 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
Bl@ck06Rubi
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My Claytonized Overland

20 March 2012 - Finally Finsished!!!! (Or at least I can drive it down the road now....)

Okay, so I started this build weekend before last, mostly wasted Saturday Painting stuff and kinda getting my game face on, I was a bit overwhelmed with the welding at first....but once I got that all finished up It went pretty quickly after that. Most of the time consumed was indecision on my part and wondering if I had it all setup right. Also spent a ton of time jockeying jackstands, floor jacks and wood blocks around lifting this dropping that, over and, and over and over again! Anyway here are the pics, not a true step by step but you will get the idea.

First order of business was to paint up the parts I could before I started welding, which amounted to the New Clayton crossmember and half of the front link mounts and the rear Dana44HD rear 4-link mount that bolts to the top of the Differential...




Stock cross member removed and prepped for initial welding.




New cross member and front link mounts in place ready for welding.



Front brackets in, gotta get rid of the stock control arm mount....god I hate cut-off discs....one day I will have a plasma cutter, cutting these off was massively time consuming.....


Front links in


Rear link mount....Yes my welds are ugly....


Frame stiffeners....and this is where I had my first Uni-body blow through! d**n I was pissed that happened. But after wards I read online about spot welding it shut and all was well....I blew through about 3 different spots, most were on thee frame stiffeners.




All right...Fast Forward to the pretty much finished product from front to back,...





Flowmaster hushpower stainless, this was the perfect muffler for this setup....and it sounds great.


And the finale...






I bought IRO "Steering equalizer" with just the pitman arm and a JKS WJ track bar seperately. The first day I was finished for a couple short little rides and man was it sketchy, not that I was surprised because with the 6 inch lift and stock drag link the drag link and track bar relationship were totally out of whack. Long story short, this Steering equalizer got everything
back to the proper parallel relationship with the track bar and drag link, a little pricey for what it is, (Essentially a drop track bar bracket and drop pitman arm) but wirth it in the case. WJ behaves as it should driving down the road and doesn't jump all over the place.
Whew! Exhausting!!! lol ;D

Still left to do....

Rock Rails, Arb Diff Covers and I need to figure out at least a front bumper, that plastic crap up front ain't going to cut it.
Observations....This is what I would consider a moderate skill level kit, even with the welding, because once you get past that it is just like any other....bolt it on. Clayton makes a GREAT product. Their instructions OTHER than the weldinf setup part SUCKS. But if you are willing to tackle this type of lift you probably have done a few builds and know what is what. Thats it for now, I'm pooped! :P

Wil


2004 Grand Cherokee Overland, 4.7HO V8, 6" Clayton Longarm, JK Rubicon Wheels, 285 70 17 MT/R, 2001
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post #2 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 07:36 AM
psyviperx
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Looks good man. Well done.

04 Overland | K&N Intake | Kumho AT51
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97 TJ Sport | D30/35 | Mods incoming...
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post #3 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 07:42 AM
SKI_VT
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Looks awesome!
What kinda weld/welder did you use?
Arc or Mig?

And did you get it aligned yet?

Other than that it looks. Nice!!

"You people make it sound like Claytons are made from gold and unicorn bones while everyone else uses PVC and spaghetti noodles."
"The Great Turtle Race! -> Iceland vs. Bushwhacker! -> Place your bets!"
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post #4 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 08:35 AM
jeep04
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Looks great and looks like alot of work, but an awesome end result, just a little jealous

04 Jeep wj Limited 4.7 <> 6.5" Iron Rock long arms front & Adjustable lowers on rear <> Bilstein 5100's <> 285/70r17 Goodyear Duratracs <> M/T black classic lock wheels <> Addco swaybars <> Superchips 3875 <> Magnaflow Stainless exhaust <> 2 Kicker comp 12's <> Kenwood head unit.
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
Bl@ck06Rubi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKI_VT View Post
Looks awesome!
What kinda weld/welder did you use?
Arc or Mig?

And did you get it aligned yet?

Other than that it looks. Nice!!
I used a 180 Century MIG, haven't got it aligned, just set the Toe in to about 2/16th of an inch, about as close as I could get it. Thanks!

2004 Grand Cherokee Overland, 4.7HO V8, 6" Clayton Longarm, JK Rubicon Wheels, 285 70 17 MT/R, 2001
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 12:35 PM
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Burning through the unibody, wow. Doesn't take much, does it?

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's

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post #7 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 12:36 PM
MEinSoCal
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so no piping after the muffler? just left it as show in this pic?



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post #8 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
Bl@ck06Rubi
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Originally Posted by MEinSoCal View Post
so no piping after the muffler? just left it as show in this pic?

No that is temporary, just so when I started it and drove it wasn't straight pipe loud and obnoxious....For inspection purposes here in Virginia the exhaust must exit the rear of the vehicle. I will have to get something routed prior to the end of April as that is when the current inspection expires....

Will

2004 Grand Cherokee Overland, 4.7HO V8, 6" Clayton Longarm, JK Rubicon Wheels, 285 70 17 MT/R, 2001
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 05:15 PM
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Nice work. Do you think the 285's would have fit with the 4.5" version?

2000 WJ Laredo 4.0 4x4 Taupe Frost - Stroker | Clayton LA w/3" Lift | 33's on JK 17's | Axles next
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post #10 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 05:37 PM
MEinSoCal
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Originally Posted by Cebby View Post
Nice work. Do you think the 285's would have fit with the 4.5" version?
285 = 33's. it could fit with LOTS of rubbing, especially if you want to run disconnected up front and don't have extended bumpstops


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post #11 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 05:43 PM
Cebby
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Thx - not opposed to trimming. I'm on 265/70R17 with Claytons up front at 3.75" lift with no rubbing, although I've not disconnected since I put that setup on. I have the IRO rear adj that I plan to replace with the Claytons as soon as I can swing it.

2000 WJ Laredo 4.0 4x4 Taupe Frost - Stroker | Clayton LA w/3" Lift | 33's on JK 17's | Axles next
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post #12 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
Bl@ck06Rubi
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yeah, it isn't a matter of actual fender room, it's the plastic front bumper that catches on mine in tight turns, I will have to trim a little plastic in front....

Will

2004 Grand Cherokee Overland, 4.7HO V8, 6" Clayton Longarm, JK Rubicon Wheels, 285 70 17 MT/R, 2001
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-24-2012, 09:08 PM
13bullets
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Good looking WJ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cebby View Post
Nice work. Do you think the 285's would have fit with the 4.5" version?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MEinSoCal View Post
285 = 33's. it could fit with LOTS of rubbing, especially if you want to run disconnected up front and don't have extended bumpstops
I've got Clayton's 4.5" lift and 33's. I trimmed my rear fenders right behind the doors down to nothing, left enough metal to fold down flat, and trimmed about an inch and a quarter off the top. The front fenders had to be trimmed at the rear, and a fair amount of bumper had to be cut too. When disconnected my tires will still catch the top of the fender arch, I need to (and will) trim that too.
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