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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wG2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ Ch

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Unread 06-01-2011, 08:32 AM   #841
ArloGuthroJeep
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Ensure the drive shafts are in phase (ie: they haven't slipped out one spline).

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Unread 06-01-2011, 11:42 AM   #842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robthebuilderer View Post
I also recently swapped the 242HD with TW SYE into my 2003 Overland (http://community.webshots.com/user/mtpockets35).

I'm riding on a BB with 31's and have the DC rear shaft and was able to use my original DC front shaft (with new u-joints). Before I put the front shaft in I took a road trip, 400 miles round trip and was soooo happy with the ride. I put the front shaft in a week later and felt some vibes between 65 and 70. I also feel what I can only describe as the driveline "settling" when I come to a stop. BOTH of these issues ONLY happen in 2wd mode....so I have been driving around in 4WH until I can figure it out. In my mind having it in 4WD keeps tension on both outputs eliminating the "settling" feeling and controlling what could be a bad front output shaft, but I'm no mechanic.

I’m inclined to believe that I have an issue with the front output, as you have mentioned. But I am pretty sure I didn’t leave anything out. So I did climb under it to tug on the rear shaft, greased the slip and when I got to the front output I could actually move it (just slightly) so I made sure it was torqued to 130ft.lb. It still has some movement in it, so it may be that there is a snap ring on the outside face of the output bearing that I missed??? I’ve reviewed some exploded views and nothing is shown there, do you recall installing one frontside of the bearing?

And by the way, GREAT build!
i went to the dealer last week to get a new outer front output bearing and seal and he said there were 2 kinds of bearings (242HD changed over the years). one required a snap ring on the outside, the other didn't, and there was no way for me to know which i needed till i take off the front output yoke and seal and look in there... so hopefully i'll get to that today so i can get the correct part and replace that - still no idea how hard it is to pull the bearing or if it's even possible from the outside without a special tool, we'll see!

so far, i spent all damn morning looking for a thin-wall socket big enough to take off my rear pinion flange (so i can get my driveshafts re-balances)! good luck with your issues and keep me posted if you solve it!
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Unread 06-03-2011, 04:32 PM   #843
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dropped off driveshafts with yokes to be re-balanced by a different shop this morning.

also ordered the abs/speed sensors and wiring for them and for the lockers yesterday from the stealership.

in the mean time, here are some pics:









the dangly wires in the back are for the abs/speed sensors.

you'll notice the drag-link and track-bar aren't parallel at all. this does result in some noticeable bump-steer. the fab guy was working with what he had (IRO brackets and Rock-Krawler steering components). i think i can flip the drag-link back to the bottom of the knuckle mount to help some, but i'll have to check clearance on that. i might eventually just re-do the axle-side mount with this one from Synergy Suspension and if it would measure out right run the Clayton track bar for the JK (which has a Johnny Joint that i like instead of hiem like Rock-Krawler). IRO solves this by doing a track-bar drop braket, but i don't want to go that route.

the only other thing is that the sway bar links are PITA to get off where IRO has them placed. they are where they are mainly because of the clearance issues with the passenger side (the drag-link). again Synergy Suspension has a possible solution, a bent drag-link that looks to offer more clearance in that are. this might allow me to move the sway bar tabs to a better place.
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Unread 06-03-2011, 04:42 PM   #844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theksmith View Post

so far, i spent all damn morning looking for a thin-wall socket big enough to take off my rear pinion flange (so i can get my driveshafts re-balances)! good luck with your issues and keep me posted if you solve it!
lol. i ended up grinding down a craftsman.

looking good, gonna be interesting how the rebalance helps......
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Unread 06-03-2011, 06:49 PM   #845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theksmith View Post
dropped off driveshafts with yokes to be re-balanced by a different shop this morning.

also ordered the abs/speed sensors and wiring for them and for the lockers yesterday from the stealership.
I hope you didn't buy the full wiring harness for the lockers, all it takes is a 12 volt.


Quote:
Originally Posted by theksmith View Post



the dangly wires in the back are for the abs/speed sensors.
lol thats exactly how mine looks ... thats an interesting bracket for the ebrake wonder why they didn't just move the bracket closer instead of making an arm like that ...


Quote:
Originally Posted by theksmith View Post
you'll notice the drag-link and track-bar aren't parallel at all. this does result in some noticeable bump-steer. the fab guy was working with what he had (IRO brackets and Rock-Krawler steering components). i think i can flip the drag-link back to the bottom of the knuckle mount to help some, but i'll have to check clearance on that. i might eventually just re-do the axle-side mount with this one from Synergy Suspension and if it would measure out right run the Clayton track bar for the JK (which has a Johnny Joint that i like instead of hiem like Rock-Krawler). IRO solves this by doing a track-bar drop braket, but i don't want to go that route.

the only other thing is that the sway bar links are PITA to get off where IRO has them placed. they are where they are mainly because of the clearance issues with the passenger side (the drag-link). again Synergy Suspension has a possible solution, a bent drag-link that looks to offer more clearance in that are. this might allow me to move the sway bar tabs to a better place.
That is the exact setup I have for my track bar, you might be better just making a custom track bar, I am sure would cost less than jk trackbar from clayton , I also have the exact same drag link that you posted, I had it shorten to fit the WJ tierod end. But If I were you id ream out the pitman arm and use a jk tierod end or this will happen to you ...


Here is how mine looks ...
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Unread 06-03-2011, 07:14 PM   #846
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shinobi yours came out great.

i did order the harness because i'm particular about things and want to have the factory plugs on the axles. the dealership could find me individual pigtails with plugs for abs and locker-sensors, but not the actual locker. also, i'm going to run the light on each of my locker switches through the sensors so that when i flip the switch, the switch will not be lit if for some reason the lockers aren't actually working correctly. the whole harness was less than $60 with a club discount.

we used the JK TRE and reamed the pitman. i have a spare pitman that i need to ream too in case that one ever breaks. what exactly happened there with your drag-link, is that one from Synergy crap?

you are using that same Synergy track-bar bracket i linked to right? the rockkrawler trackbar i have was bent in a hydraulic press to make it work as it sits now. i might could shorten it if i could drill and tap it afterwards (assuming i re-located the axle-side mount even) - it's so thick walled that it's nearly solid rod, so it's strong if nothing else.

the IRO ebrake actually works well. i think they left the cable ends so far from the brakes to leave you plenty of slack in the cables for articulating, but i gather you don't have any problem with your setup either.

the only major change in the rear form what IRO sent was the lower control arm brackets - the IRO brackets were meant to be flush on the tube but that put the axle too far back (we couldn't get the Clayton arms short enough for that), so the fabber did different brackets and side-trussed them since they were at an angle.

the front was major surgery and only portions of the IRO stuff was used and still needs some work as i've mentioned. i would definitely not recommend anyone use the IRO front kit unless they have the IRO suspension.
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Unread 06-03-2011, 09:31 PM   #847
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theksmith can we see some picture of the new axles?
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Unread 06-03-2011, 10:25 PM   #848
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hope the elockers hold up, i have read and heard they are a bit weak. Nice set up though. not sure what I am going to do on my front, may truss the and rotate the knuckles on the turdy and eventually do iro or similar shafts.
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Unread 06-03-2011, 10:49 PM   #849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by platinum5.9 View Post
theksmith can we see some picture of the new axles?
see about 4 posts before yours
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Unread 06-04-2011, 01:54 AM   #850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theksmith View Post
shinobi yours came out great.

i did order the harness because i'm particular about things and want to have the factory plugs on the axles. the dealership could find me individual pigtails with plugs for abs and locker-sensors, but not the actual locker. also, i'm going to run the light on each of my locker switches through the sensors so that when i flip the switch, the switch will not be lit if for some reason the lockers aren't actually working correctly. the whole harness was less than $60 with a club discount.

we used the JK TRE and reamed the pitman. i have a spare pitman that i need to ream too in case that one ever breaks. what exactly happened there with your drag-link, is that one from Synergy crap?

you are using that same Synergy track-bar bracket i linked to right? the rockkrawler trackbar i have was bent in a hydraulic press to make it work as it sits now. i might could shorten it if i could drill and tap it afterwards (assuming i re-located the axle-side mount even) - it's so thick walled that it's nearly solid rod, so it's strong if nothing else.

the IRO ebrake actually works well. i think they left the cable ends so far from the brakes to leave you plenty of slack in the cables for articulating, but i gather you don't have any problem with your setup either.

the only major change in the rear form what IRO sent was the lower control arm brackets - the IRO brackets were meant to be flush on the tube but that put the axle too far back (we couldn't get the Clayton arms short enough for that), so the fabber did different brackets and side-trussed them since they were at an angle.

the front was major surgery and only portions of the IRO stuff was used and still needs some work as i've mentioned. i would definitely not recommend anyone use the IRO front kit unless they have the IRO suspension.

Thanks man !

Wow thats a good deal on the harness, I paid 130 for mine ended up gutting the whole thing ! If you don't get it wired up by GSW I can help you in moab if you want !

I bent my draglink end while wedged and leaning against a rock on the rubicon... I gave it too much muscle lol . Now I got the draglink extended and with the hydro assist so that shouldn't be a problem anymore.


Oh ya I told you so....and you didn't listen to me ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by theksmith View Post
the front was major surgery and only portions of the IRO stuff was used and still needs some work as i've mentioned. i would definitely not recommend anyone use the IRO front kit unless they have the IRO suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shinobi View Post
Okay don't even bother with the IRO front kit . If I were u Id return the front IRO truss, my clayton kit bolted right in with the existing jk brackets . Hack off all the spring buckets and move them in a lil . OR u can get all the HD brackets from Polyperformace and hack off the old ones and weld the new ones to ur specific .
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Unread 06-04-2011, 01:56 AM   #851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsconver View Post
hope the elockers hold up, i have read and heard they are a bit weak. Nice set up though. not sure what I am going to do on my front, may truss the and rotate the knuckles on the turdy and eventually do iro or similar shafts.
The Elockers are holding up great ive been wheeling the piss out of mine for a year now and they do their job. (so far)
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Unread 06-04-2011, 10:10 AM   #852
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Wow, it looks like there's not much left of the IRO truss up front

If you could, could you take some close-ups of the E-brake set-up? I'm not really sure how to deal with that, did you'all get JK E-brake cables? or keep the WJs and adapt them somehow?

And also, does anyone know the reamer size/specs to ream out the pitman arm to accept the JK rod end?

I would also suggest getting a higher TB bracket for the axle side instead of flipping the DL under the knuckle, this way you'll keep a lower roll center and it should ride a lot better.

Oh, and please, take a bunch of pics of how you wire up the ABS/Speedo/lockers; I think I'm done with my requests

Hope you get your driveline vibes figured out soon .
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Unread 06-04-2011, 01:35 PM   #853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shinobi View Post
Oh ya I told you so....and you didn't listen to me ...
i know, i know - but i couldn't return the IRO stuff because i'd already welded plate over their logos the spring perches worked just fine from it... lol

if i had known how long it would have taken me to get around to having this all done, i would have definitely gotten all clayton stuff.... well the IRO rear is all good actually and i do like that truss from them.
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Unread 06-04-2011, 01:42 PM   #854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX-WJ View Post
Wow, it looks like there's not much left of the IRO truss up front

If you could, could you take some close-ups of the E-brake set-up? I'm not really sure how to deal with that, did you'all get JK E-brake cables? or keep the WJs and adapt them somehow?

And also, does anyone know the reamer size/specs to ream out the pitman arm to accept the JK rod end?

I would also suggest getting a higher TB bracket for the axle side instead of flipping the DL under the knuckle, this way you'll keep a lower roll center and it should ride a lot better.

Oh, and please, take a bunch of pics of how you wire up the ABS/Speedo/lockers; I think I'm done with my requests

Hope you get your driveline vibes figured out soon .
they are still WJ e-brake cables.

i'll ask about the taper for stock JK TRE.

i agree on the draglink, flipping it back down would be a temporary fix for the bump-steer - redoing the whole axle-mount of the trackbar and a different trackbar (or modify this one) is the long term best solution.

i'll take more detail pics of everything and post them!
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Unread 06-04-2011, 01:52 PM   #855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsconver View Post
hope the elockers hold up, i have read and heard they are a bit weak. Nice set up though. not sure what I am going to do on my front, may truss the and rotate the knuckles on the turdy and eventually do iro or similar shafts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shinobi View Post
The Elockers are holding up great ive been wheeling the piss out of mine for a year now and they do their job. (so far)
i've "heard" rumors of the e-lockers being weak, but never seen a first hand account of them fail to know what size tires, motor, and what scenario they might have been in when failing. i think as soon as one person breaks something that is "stock", the internet builds up this whole thing about it and the next thing you know "it's a complete POS".

my whole point of these axles is to hopefully over-build for my typical type of expedition wheeling on moderate trails, and to be adequate for the occasional real crawling.

my 2 biggest issues before were just worrying about the front CV joints with the 35's and ARB (though i never did break one). and the bending rear shafts due to being loaded down heavy on expedition type trips and still wanting to haul *** through washes - i did bend a couple rear shafts that way.

assuming i can ever get these vibes figured out, then i still want to fix the front track-bar mount, move the disconnect mounts, and truss the front. then one day i'd like to do really nice shocks and dial that all in (which i would probably re-do the rear upper mounts at the same time, and strengthen the front upper mounting too) - however, i need bumpers before any of that... a man can dream though!
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