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Unread 05-02-2013, 05:34 AM   #466
Bama_WJ
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I see now. I thought that big protrusion where the coil sits was going to get cut out in order to fit the coilovers.

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Unread 05-02-2013, 05:41 AM   #467
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Any reason why you didn't run the coil over mounting bracket to the axle tube instead of your link bracket? Or is this just s partial bracket mockup?
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Unread 05-02-2013, 11:53 AM   #468
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Dan I'm not personally a fan of putting the lower control arm mount on top of the axle tubes like most people do. It makes you have to stuff more of the coilover into the engine bay than I feel is ever really necessary. This location actually worked out great, I didn't even have to remove the AC drier like I expected. On the drivers side, the mount squeezes just BARELY into the pocket between the abs pump, master cylinder and brake booster.

Dillon, it will also be attatched to the axle tube, but this is the best orientation for packaging the mount down there, and still being able to get the control arm bolt out without the mount being in the way haha.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 02:32 PM   #469
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Pictures of the clearance.





And then Greg's awesome idea.



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Unread 05-02-2013, 02:57 PM   #470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnmarc
Pictures of the clearance.

And then Greg's awesome idea.
Now Greg ..those hex head tabs... .. That's just showing off



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Unread 05-02-2013, 03:43 PM   #471
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freaking genius with those tabs. I first looked at the pic and thought it was dumb to have to remove the coil to get the arm off........then I looked harder and had to slap myself for judging you too quickly....excellent work man!!!


EDIT: when I first saw the pic it was where Mark had posted it in another section of the forum. he only included the second pic. so im not completely blind haha
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Unread 05-02-2013, 07:50 PM   #472
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Dang greg that's showing off
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Unread 05-03-2013, 06:38 PM   #473
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Haha! you guys are funny, gotta do something trick every once in a while to mix things up a bit

Quote:
Originally Posted by adavis39 View Post
freaking genius with those tabs. I first looked at the pic and thought it was dumb to have to remove the coil to get the arm off........then I looked harder and had to slap myself for judging you too quickly....excellent work man!!!


EDIT: when I first saw the pic it was where Mark had posted it in another section of the forum. he only included the second pic. so im not completely blind haha
Don't count yourself out too fast now! You do have to unbolt the coilover to remove the control arm bolt, it's the only way I could get things packaged in a way that fit all the constraints well. Ideally it wouldn't be like that, but I put more importance on placing the shock where I think it'll work best, even though disassembly might take an extra couple minutes .

I'm just letting you guys know, this thing looks GOOD with the front coilovers under it...that's been todays fun!
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Unread 05-04-2013, 11:47 AM   #474
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Full bump. A little less than an inch of shaft showing will prevent the shocks from ever bottoming out and blowing out a seal or worse. At this point, the lower control arms are flat on the frame rails.



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Unread 05-04-2013, 10:47 PM   #475
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Reading back a ways, did you use a special reamer for your pitman warm to accept the larger TRE or just measure out the size of the tapered shaft and take it down to that depth on the reamer?
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Unread 05-04-2013, 10:54 PM   #476
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Just a 1.5" per foot reamer (that is the taper of all GM 1 ton TRE's), go until the TRE seats far enough to get a cotter pin through the castle nut and you're good. If you go a little farther than that, you can put a washer under the nut to give proper spacing for the cotter pin.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 10:57 PM   #477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake View Post
Just a 1.5" per foot reamer (that is the taper of all GM 1 ton TRE's), go until the TRE seats far enough to get a cotter pin through the castle nut and you're good. If you go a little farther than that, you can put a washer under the nut to give proper spacing for the cotter pin.
Thanks.

Gotta do mine here before too long.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 11:05 PM   #478
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Heck yeah. What I do to make life easier is measure the diameter of the threaded shank, IIRC the ES2233L and ES2234R are 5/8" and the ES2027L and ES 2026R drag link ends are 11/16" but the same 1.5" taper per foot. That makes it so you have less to cut with the reamer. If your not too familiar with reamers they are awesome. If you're doing it by hand, just a nice slow even speed with as much weight as you can smoothly apply. If you get any binding/deflection watch it because I've heard of people breaking reamers. I haven't had any issues myself yet, doing about 50% by hand and 50% in a drill press. They cut material like nobody's business, just put some sort of oil to keep cutting temps down and go to town
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Unread 05-05-2013, 01:15 PM   #479
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Upper control arm mount.





Reamed out.



3/8" spacer was needed to make a little clearance.



Droop to the floor.

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Unread 05-05-2013, 01:54 PM   #480
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Looking good man. Is it going to be ready before Memorial day. We are thinking of either a Rubicon or Moonrocks trip that weekend. My new 3 link worked awesome on the trail can't wait to see yours perform.
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