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List of ?'s from the new guy.......
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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List of ?'s from the new guy.......
Looking to upgrade my bone stock ZJ to be more of a trail ready rig. I dont want to go completely crazy as this will also be my daily driver as well as Wife and Kid's hauler. So here is my list of questions.........
1. What is a good 2-3" suspension lift that will retain the stock ride quality? Dont want to go much over 3" but could do 4". 2. With a lift and larger tires (probably in the 31x10.5 range) what size gears would you recommend? I dont even know what comes in the stock but they definitely aint gonna cut it if I run bigger tires? 3. Any engine upgrades you guys would recommend? It runs strong now after a tune-up and isnt bad for mileage but I'd like to eventually start building a stroker for it. 4. Brakes? Are the stock ones gonna cut it or are there larger rotors to swap too or better calipers? Just dont want to push on the brakes and get the dreaded mush to the floor. Well I'll let you guys ponder those ones for awhile before I ask the rest. Thanks-Tim
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#2 |
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Mr. Hyde!
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1) No 2-3" lift will maintain stock ride quality - at least not without going to long arms. Any lift will change the ride quality.
2) For 31's, stick with your stock gearing. No need to regear until you hit the 33"+ tire sizes generally. 3) For the 4.0L? Nope, I wouldn't recommend any except an exhaust upgrade and that is mostly for sound, not function.
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked |
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#3 |
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Thanks for the input. I understand what you're saying about the lift vs ride quality, but what is the one lift that would keep it as close to factory as possible?
Very interesting about the gears. I figured that would be the first thing to do,it just doesnt seem to have the punch and I figured with the bigger rotating mass it would feel even more sluggish. Guess that'll save some money though ![]() |
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#4 |
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Mr. Hyde!
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Sure 31's will be slower then the stock size, but unless you want to drop a lot of cash on something with pretty minimal improvements I would hold off. Try 31's and at that point see if it a big issue or not.
Check out www.kevinsoffroad.com or www.ironrockoffroad.com Or you can get some personal service from an excellent vendor named Nick. His email is kolak@aol.com and is awesome
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked |
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#5 |
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The only difference I noticed between my 3" lift and stock was the cornering. It tends to have a lot more body roll now, but going over bumps and that sort of thing feels fine.
PS I did get a bad case of DW, but all is well now.
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ROLL TIDE!!! 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7 HO 3" IRO Coils, MX6's, JKS Adj Trackbar, Rancho SS, KOR Dual SS, Addco rear, BBK 70mm TB, K&N CAI, Magnaflow catback w/ high flow cat and 265/75 M/T MTZ's on 16" M/T Classic II's |
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#6 | |
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Burlington, Kentucky
Posts: 5,169
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Quote:
He could always stroke it for power Alro.
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Interested in Amsoil? Sold4" Hybrid lift TeraFlex coils IRO Adjustable LA's Jks tracbar 1.25spidertrax spacers 265/75/16 Dura-tracs 2011 WK2 Laredo with ORA1 |
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#7 |
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Mr. Hyde!
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Stroke it or super charge it (or turbo)...those are the only real ways to get power out of the 4.0L. Or throw some nitrous for short mountain climbs (on the road, not 4-wheeling).
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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i have the 3.5" from IRO with Skyjacker shocks with 32" tires. Definitely not the same from stock ride quality, but i never got the DW after the install and it rides pretty nice. It is a stiff ride, but i don't mind it
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1997 Grand Cherokee Orvis: V8 5.2L, stock. (Sold) 1998 Cherokee Sport: 4.0L I6, Stock. (Sold) 1990 Cherokee: 4.0L I6, 4.5" Lift, 33" BFG's. (Sold) 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited: V8 5.2L, 2" BB, 31" Dick Cepeks. (Sold) 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo: Build Thread; V8 4.7L, Stock. (Sold) 1996 Grand Cherokee Laredo: Build Thread; V8 5.2L ,3.5" lift, 32" Tires |
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#9 |
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What is DW?
Not following you guys on some of your acronyms............... |
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#10 |
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Mr. Hyde!
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DW = Death Wobble.
It is caused from the suspension geometry being out of spec, or components being worn out or loose (typically the latter two). The steering wheel will jerk back and forth violently - generally until you slow down to 25mph or slower. It happens when you hit cracks/bumps in the road. It tends to scare the crap out of people the first few times it happens. After the first few times it is just an annoyance.
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Gotcha. Like I said,just didnt know what it was short for. |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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My bad, I should have spelled it out.
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ROLL TIDE!!! 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7 HO 3" IRO Coils, MX6's, JKS Adj Trackbar, Rancho SS, KOR Dual SS, Addco rear, BBK 70mm TB, K&N CAI, Magnaflow catback w/ high flow cat and 265/75 M/T MTZ's on 16" M/T Classic II's |
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