How to let my 5.2 breath?? ANY OPINIONS - Page 2

FST1994ZJ · 02-08-2010, 12:11 AM

yea but how much do you think that will run me and my jeep is all wheel drive all the time that means re-gearing the front and rear.

**horatio102** · 02-08-2010, 12:14 AM

I'm going to suggest some far more economical solutions than what have been suggested so far.

www.hughesengines.com is your friend.

RHS/Indy heads - iron, for about $850 to your door you get a set of heads that flow better than Edelbrock Aluminum heads and cost way less. Assembled with new valve springs and new valves.

Modified stock intake manifold. I'd go with a stage 1, since you need to keep your torque due to driving a pig. You can do this yourself, cut the intake plenum length down. Go to hughes and browse their Magnum small block stuff. There is some interesting reading there.

Do NOT waste a single dime modifying the stock heads. They're junk.

Fastman throttle body, good CAI, headers with a 3" exhaust (high flow cat, muffler, etc), performance ECU/custom tuned reflash, camshaft, etc.

By that point you should have plenty of power to snap your stock transmission and rear end.

If you need more, I'd get a 360 block and swap your goodies over to it, along with a 408 stroker kit and then swap out the barrel manifold for an M1.

Oh, and yeah, regear for sure. If you don't add lockers in there, figure about $350-400 for gears and master rebuild kits per end, plus another $500 or so for labor for each end, so you're looking at about $2k out the door.

SILASPRIT · 02-08-2010, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FST1994ZJ

yea but how much do you think that will run me and my jeep is all wheel drive all the time that means re-gearing the front and rear.

any 4wd system has to have matching F&R gears.... but you would probabily be in the neighborhood of 1K. I would try to find a 4 cylinder xj or tj and snatch the front axle. You will gain the HP and it will have 4.10's, then you could just regear the back. Im saying to keep your rear axle because you have discs and xj/tj is going to be rear drums.

FST1994ZJ · 02-08-2010, 12:26 AM

yea but i have re done the brakes completely with all around disc so it stops on a dime.

SILASPRIT · 02-08-2010, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FST1994ZJ

yea but i have re done the brakes completely with all around disc so it stops on a dime.

thats why i say to keep the rear axle, and swap your front brakes to the JY axle. You could pick up a JY D30 for about 100 then throw in regearing for the back and be sittiin around 600ish. you would defitileny have the gains you need/want

FST1994ZJ · 02-08-2010, 12:32 AM

where would i go about picking up that axle??

what model is that out of?

SILASPRIT · 02-08-2010, 12:35 AM

Your local pick and pull yard. Look for a dana 30 out of a 4 cylinder cherokee or wrangler. if its a 4cyl it will have 4.10's.

FST1994ZJ · 02-08-2010, 12:39 AM

ok i wont be able to do that till i have the other money to buy the gears for the rear. is there anything else i could do in the mean time to gain hp or torch?

**horatio102** · 02-08-2010, 01:00 AM

TORQUE.

Torch is a device for burning things.

NOTHING you can do will be as cheap or effective as re-gearing. Well, you can do cheaper things, but they won't get you anywhere near where a simple re-gear does.

tirus89 · 02-08-2010, 02:11 AM

3" exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler w/ turn down
Fastman 50mm ported throttle body
K&N FIPK Gen II w/ AmsOil EaAU4090 Filter and EaPF21 Pre-Filter
4.10 Superior Gears

With that on my 93 5.2, she gets up and goes. And highway driving is just as nice as before.

**ratmonkey** · 02-08-2010, 03:40 AM

The indy heads peak around .500-.600" of lift. So you need a whole rest of the motor that complements that. They're best bolted to a niner or stroker.

The f1 or m1 don't hit till 2500rs and flow too much to be effective in the low range on a 318. They're best reserved for revving niners and strokers with big runner heads.
Then you need a cam to complement that. Any cam that will bring those mods alive wont be bottom end friendly.
For a 318 I'd recommend a set of 2.02 iron ram heads, gasket matched. with a gasket matched kegger that's had a VERY slight runner cut down, deshrouding, and a turtle added. R/t+10 cam, edelbrock headers, 3" exhaust and a hot rod triangle style foamie air filter. And a 52mm throttlebody from fastman. Being in a 1994 your only ecu tuning options are the mopar perf unit or a stand alone fuel system.
You have to consider the whole package. Just picking the highest flowing stuff and cobbling it together rarely gets you where you want to be.
That combo will eat niners and probably surprise a f/fox body or two. But your jeep is still heavy.

FST1994ZJ · 02-08-2010, 10:54 AM

When you say a turn down exhaust what exactly do you mean i have all the other things you have stated and a high flow cat. But i dont know what a turn down exhaust is.

SILASPRIT · 02-08-2010, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FST1994ZJ

When you say a turn down exhaust what exactly do you mean i have all the other things you have stated and a high flow cat. But i dont know what a turn down exhaust is.

a turn-down is just a curved pipe after the muffler shooting the exhaust at the ground. like this.......

FST1994ZJ · 02-08-2010, 11:07 AM

ok will that do anything for my hp and torque??

and will i get fumes inside the cab with the exhaust under it??

CLNinja · 02-08-2010, 11:14 AM

anyone else notice this guys post count? how is that possible in only a few months?

FST1994ZJ
Registered User
1994 ZJ

Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Las Vegas
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02-08-2010, 12:14 AM	#17
horatio102 Web Wheeler Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: bjjkb Posts: 1,430 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I'm going to suggest some far more economical solutions than what have been suggested so far. www.hughesengines.com is your friend. RHS/Indy heads - iron, for about $850 to your door you get a set of heads that flow better than Edelbrock Aluminum heads and cost way less. Assembled with new valve springs and new valves. Modified stock intake manifold. I'd go with a stage 1, since you need to keep your torque due to driving a pig. You can do this yourself, cut the intake plenum length down. Go to hughes and browse their Magnum small block stuff. There is some interesting reading there. Do NOT waste a single dime modifying the stock heads. They're junk. Fastman throttle body, good CAI, headers with a 3" exhaust (high flow cat, muffler, etc), performance ECU/custom tuned reflash, camshaft, etc. By that point you should have plenty of power to snap your stock transmission and rear end. If you need more, I'd get a 360 block and swap your goodies over to it, along with a 408 stroker kit and then swap out the barrel manifold for an M1. Oh, and yeah, regear for sure. If you don't add lockers in there, figure about $350-400 for gears and master rebuild kits per end, plus another $500 or so for labor for each end, so you're looking at about $2k out the door.

02-08-2010, 01:00 AM	#24
horatio102 Web Wheeler Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: bjjkb Posts: 1,430 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	TORQUE. Torch is a device for burning things. NOTHING you can do will be as cheap or effective as re-gearing. Well, you can do cheaper things, but they won't get you anywhere near where a simple re-gear does.