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Unread 01-10-2014, 07:53 PM   #61
Gearhead31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouC View Post
You youngsters have it easy....engines with EFI that start by just turing the key....we old guys...had to deal with chokes....like this one on the pic of a Marine Quadrajet....that needed maintenance, adjustment and proper driver intelligence.....
it's not the exact same, but I used to have a carb'd tractor and two cars.. They were a GIANT PITA *%$&&%*% to start on the colder, icey mid missouri winters, and that was only at 0 to neg 10 temp ranges.. I can only imagine the pain of those before me
btw, I'm one of those youngsters. Not all of us are a babbling, bumbling band of baboons

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Unread 02-05-2014, 09:40 AM   #62
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--Synthetic oil..big difference
--Park brake can freeze ON so if safe to do so don't use it over night.
--E-gas you all seem to hate but if you live in the valley and go to high elevation ski hill moisture in the tank can be a pain. keep gas tank full.
--Regular maintenance but clean battery cables especially important.

--I used to work in the bush... isolated areas. I did not like using block heater. I want to now the beast was going to start at home in the weather we have.
--If using around town I would plug in block heater as easier on the engine.
--Winter washer solution for sure.. I use same coolant year round -40 rating.
--Wipers will be frozen to the glass in morning can use a de-ice spray to free them without damaging.

--key locks... graphite powder from a small injector... don't go over board if you have white paint can make a noticeable mess.

--Can crack front windsheild if you wait till engine warms up and then blast the heat on it. I leave defrost on low even when just starting to it heats up as the engine does.

--Expect 10-5 minutes drive to warm up.. previous good advice to not over rev.

--Haven't had the jeep out in extreme cold and I think jeep trans fluid has limited options and must use jeep product. On my truck got cold I couldn't move the stick shift to get it in gear so went to a synthetic tranny fluid as well.

--Safety gear such as blanket or sleeping bag, heavy coat and boots in the cab in case you get stuck. I have a permanent candle. Have hung a blanket over roll cage to cut down the volume of air required to be heated up in the cab.
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Unread 02-05-2014, 09:54 AM   #63
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Since neither of my rear windows roll down, I was thinking of stuffing the rear doors with faceless fiberglass. Considering the lift gate too
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Unread 02-05-2014, 07:01 PM   #64
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I grew up in Upstate NY. When September rolled around, guys would start checking our vehicles and get them ready for Winter. We would check all coolant hoses. Bend them to see for small cracks. Replace as needed. It sucks to work on a coolant problem when it's cold out! Check radiator and cap with pressure tester. We would automatically change the thermostat, better safe than sorry. We would even check freeze out plugs for rust issues. Visually check the water pump and belts for old age. Clean the battery and all electrical connections. Oil change. Visually check the radiator fins for leaks. Apply graphite to all locks. Apply silicone to all weather stripping that is rubber. Lithium grease to lock linkage. I, myself believe in a two battery system as it's easier to jump start yourself. I use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/ We also made sure that our gas was never at 1/4 or below. I kept mine as full as the wallet would let me! We used gas additives to prevent freezing if water condensed in the tank. If you had a carb, you adjusted the choke and made sure it was working. Heck, we tuned the carb and checked the vacuum advance on the distributor. I'm sure I missed a few things as my memory is old!
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Unread 02-06-2014, 09:23 AM   #65
herqulees
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Coldest start I've had to do this year was about 0*F, had zero issues it just took about a second longer. Wasn't starting slow or anything like a low battery just took a second longer on the starter for some reason. Also noticed that when it's under about 30*F an idler or something belt driven starts squeaking for the first ~20minutes of engine running time telling me something is on its way out and doesn't like the cold so adding that to my to-do. Not going to be one of those guys driving around with it sounding like a chain saw murder of a bunch of teenage girls under the hood.
Anyways my one tip... idle idle idle. Don't just hop in and go. Start it and let it idle at least 5minutes, I idle 15minutes to get the interior warm while getting ready for work.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 09:32 AM   #66
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herqulees View Post
Anyways my one tip... idle idle idle. Don't just hop in and go. Start it and let it idle at least 5minutes, I idle 15minutes to get the interior warm whine getting ready for work.
Long period of idling with a cold engine is a BIG no!!!

It honestly is the WORST thing you can do to your vehicle in cold weather. With or without a block heater - go out, start your vehicle, let it idle no more than a minute or two and then start driving. Take it easy for the first couple miles before the engine has started to reach around 150*F or above.

Keeping the engine idling when really cold is just asking for trouble. You have the oil very thick, and very low RPMs preventing proper lubrication to all engine parts. Bare minimum is to have high idle (around 1200-1400rpms) to keep the oil pressure high enough and oil flowing. There are many studies which show extreme wear on (cold) engines if they are idled when it's cold outside.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 09:51 AM   #67
herqulees
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Long period of idling with a cold engine is a BIG no!!!

It honestly is the WORST thing you can do to your vehicle in cold weather. With or without a block heater - go out, start your vehicle, let it idle no more than a minute or two and then start driving. Take it easy for the first couple miles before the engine has started to reach around 150*F or above.

Keeping the engine idling when really cold is just asking for trouble. You have the oil very thick, and very low RPMs preventing proper lubrication to all engine parts. Bare minimum is to have high idle (around 1200-1400rpms) to keep the oil pressure high enough and oil flowing. There are many studies which show extreme wear on (cold) engines if they are idled when it's cold outside.
Can you post links to these studies? Because I can not believe it. Even if I did I can't say it will change anything as I'm not sitting in a 5*F vehicle half my drive to work lol. But still, if you have decent oil, I'm 100% AMSOil, a decent filter, mine is an AMSOil 25k mile filter, and your engine is able to idle at its designated idle speed marked under the hood, there are no issues.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 10:07 AM   #68
Timo_90xj
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Originally Posted by herqulees View Post
Can you post links to these studies? Because I can not believe it. Even if I did I can't say it will change anything as I'm not sitting in a 5*F vehicle half my drive to work lol. But still, if you have decent oil, I'm 100% AMSOil, a decent filter, mine is an AMSOil 25k mile filter, and your engine is able to idle at its designated idle speed marked under the hood, there are no issues.
If you like to read studies in Finnish, Swedish, Norwegian or German

I don't care what you believe or not, but it is a fact that stands with modern vehicles just as much as with old vehicles. Leave a can of 5W 30 fully synthetic oil outside overnight when it's something like -10...0* F outside and try to pour it out the next morning. You may be suprisex Any engine oil is quite thick in cold weather, and you don't want that goop to stay like that for too long. The sooner you start driving, the faster the oil warms up and circulates better, which in turn helps preventing excessive wear.

We just had a two week period of cold between -5...5 *F. I don't have a block heater or cabin heater, and my engine reaches 100 degrees within a couple minutes of driving, and gets to operating temp win under ten minutes when driving. If I let it idle, those numbers more than double. Looking at oil pressure, the readings are a lot higher on a cold morning right after initial start up compared to after five minutes of driving. Guess why?

You can let your engine idle as long as you like, but please don't post misinformation to other people.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 10:23 AM   #69
herqulees
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
If you like to read studies in Finnish, Swedish, Norwegian or German

I don't care what you believe or not, but it is a fact that stands with modern vehicles just as much as with old vehicles. Leave a can of 5W 30 fully synthetic oil outside overnight when it's something like -10...0* F outside and try to pour it out the next morning. You may be suprisex Any engine oil is quite thick in cold weather, and you don't want that goop to stay like that for too long. The sooner you start driving, the faster the oil warms up and circulates better, which in turn helps preventing excessive wear.

We just had a two week period of cold between -5...5 *F. I don't have a block heater or cabin heater, and my engine reaches 100 degrees within a couple minutes of driving, and gets to operating temp win under ten minutes when driving. If I let it idle, those numbers more than double. Looking at oil pressure, the readings are a lot higher on a cold morning right after initial start up compared to after five minutes of driving. Guess why?

You can let your engine idle as long as you like, but please don't post misinformation to other people.
Google translate can, usually, do the job. I do not consider something misinformation when nearly every mechanic from a shade tree to an 80 year old expert will say the same as far as letting an engine idle before driving it no matter what the weather conditions. Even these new cars that don't have a temperature gauge just a cold engine light it clearly says in the manual "Though not always recommended you can drive your vehicle while this light is illuminated." Being a valet at the moment I can say that through the months of driving everything imaginable this light does not turn out in less than five minutes and I'm sure they only put "Not recommended" instead of "Do not" just to prevent tons of angry car owners wanting to know why they can't drive there car first thing in the morning without voiding the warranty. My argument summed up is yes oil is thicker when cold and doesn't want to lubricate as well, but I would expect five to ten minutes of idling with cold oil to cause less wear than five to ten minutes of variable loads and RPMs on the engine. After all what is the one thing a lot of us will reach before we get the engine to operating temp? The interstate ramp, a usually too short stretch of road where you have to go from 0 to 70 in seconds.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 10:55 AM   #70
Timo_90xj
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I wrote about a minute or two of idling is good, ie. while scraping the windshield and side windows clean of ice.

All of the studies done around here have shown a single cold start can be the equivalent of driving up to around 300 miles (I can of find that pretty unbelievable, but who knows ). Those same studies have mentioned it is not advisable to let the vehicle idle for extended periods of time. High idle works ok since it makes the engine work a little, it lets the oil to warm up faster and it also makes the lubrication system work efficiently. The key here is lubrication - idle RPMs at extreme cold temps don't necessarily allow the engine oil to reach every place as efficiently as required.

I never use more than ~50% throttle or RPMs higher than ~2500-3000 when accelerating with a cold engine. I believe what the studies say and what my own eyes tell me about the engine behavior - not what the vehicle manufacturers say. Their intensions are to sell as many vehicles as possible
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Unread 02-06-2014, 01:08 PM   #71
crs524
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Going to be 5 degrees Tuesday morning, anything I can do to prep?

I live in Mont-Laurier Québec the temperature drop a few time below -35C I have a 3.0 liter diesel engine in a grand Cherokee and it always start, of course I always use synthetic lubricant.

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Unread 02-06-2014, 07:48 PM   #72
Dr89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
I wrote about a minute or two of idling is good, ie. while scraping the windshield and side windows clean of ice.

All of the studies done around here have shown a single cold start can be the equivalent of driving up to around 300 miles (I can of find that pretty unbelievable, but who knows ). Those same studies have mentioned it is not advisable to let the vehicle idle for extended periods of time. High idle works ok since it makes the engine work a little, it lets the oil to warm up faster and it also makes the lubrication system work efficiently. The key here is lubrication - idle RPMs at extreme cold temps don't necessarily allow the engine oil to reach every place as efficiently as required.

I never use more than ~50% throttle or RPMs higher than ~2500-3000 when accelerating with a cold engine. I believe what the studies say and what my own eyes tell me about the engine behavior - not what the vehicle manufacturers say. Their intensions are to sell as many vehicles as possible
Although I agree with you about cold starts being hard on engines, there has been about 5 days total this winter with the windchill between -30 and -40...I can guaran-effing-tee you I'm going to let my jeep idle for 15-20 mins before I go driving around!!
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Unread 02-06-2014, 08:36 PM   #73
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IMO , if you don't have the ability to heat/clean off the windshield , you are a danger on the road . Vehicles and parts are replaceable , you have only one life . Why endanger it
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Unread 02-06-2014, 08:43 PM   #74
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Wind chill and car talk always makes me laugh a bit.....

But what about your car? Is it affected by the wind chill factor? Well, cars aren’t susceptible to frostbite, so in everyday driving, the answer is no. If you measure the temperature of the cold engine block or battery of a vehicle in your driveway, you’ll see they are the same as the ambient temperature, regardless of the wind.
However, there is a wrinkle to this observation. Wind chill will affect the pace at which an exposed engine cools. So, if you stop your car and open the hood, the engine will lose its heat more quickly if it’s windy. Similarly, if your radiator is exposed to the wind on a cold day, it could take a little longer for your car to reach its operating temperature.

But as far as starting your vehicle is concerned, the wind chill factor has no impact at all.


Windchill just doesn't effect cars like it does us...we can get frost bite, they can't, we have moisture be wicked away, they don't.

We've had some very cold mornings, -16 with windchills much much colder, obvioulsy and it only takes my Jeep a few minutes to blow heat....10-minutes in and it's toasty, even with a Rampage soft top.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 09:37 PM   #75
rrxjeeper71
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I want to represent the Minnesotans on here and say that 5 degrees is t-shirt weather. Unless your battery is old, you'll be just fine, maybe tap the throttle just a bit when you're starting it if you have a weak fuel pump.

I was actually just gonna post if I should run mine occasionally during this spell of -23 nights and -13 days, but I'm sure some Alaskan or Canadian will respond that I'm a wimp.
Thats dog walking T-shirt/shorts wearing weather where I am from (chicago,il)
Now in Tx and people freak at 32* Holy crap
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