i was thinking of tossing the idea of flat/tube fenders around cause my old man and i were talking about making a set for his YJ and i think im taking my tubing back and flat stock and making some for myself i absolutely LOVE your jeep man. to bad you arent over here in the states would be nice to see this thing in pesron
1998 ZJ~~V.r 4~~4.0 with a bunch of fancy stuff that makes it look pretty sitting in the driveway.
PM me for 99+ intake manifolds for sale
$125-sandblasted and painted and shipped
Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the results myself too
edit: Btw., I need a new muffler. The stock one fell of last spring, I've had a 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo muffler since. It basically makes a "swoosh"- sound under WOT, I hate that I don't want my ZJ to bee too loud since it's my DD, but I want it to have a good V8- rumble. This does sound good, but anyone have any experience how loud is it inside the cabin? Flowmaster Delta 50- series:
Got the rear axle close to finished today. I decided against black that I initially thought of, decided to go with Hammerite silver. Center section will be painted black, as well as diff cover. Same color scheme on the front of course. Rear brakes need some work, I cannot use the stock rear brakeline junction block because it won't fit with the truss. Probably gonna use a braided steel version, and re-do the hardlines on the axle. After all, they are 14 years old so this is a good time replacing them.
Rough Country obviously doesn't know how to prep metal before painting. I think I've never seen as crappy quality paint job on a factory product - I guess you get what you pay for All eight CAs that were used only for about a month on the salty winter roads looked like crap - way worse than the stock 14 year old CAs!
So out came the 40 grit flap disc and 4.5" angle grinder.. I've had nothing but good experience using Hammerite on axles, CAs, track bars etc., so I painted them with the same colour as the axle:
Does this count as a bent wheel? It's my right front, no idea when this has happened. I'm gonna use a plastic BFH and try pounding in the bent area. It's gonna go in the rear..
Rear CAs and rear axle is now ready to be bolted in
..but I just may have a little setback: I got a piece of metal to my left eye last Tuesday @ work, when using an air gun to lash semitrailers to the deck on a roro- ship.
Long story (kind-of ) short, doctors weren't able to remove the piece of metal from my eye. Today I went to see an ophthalmologist, but not even him was able to remove it. Gonna go back on Monday to see another ophthalmologist, who will decide if I need an eye surgery or not. Most likely I need it, since the piece of metal is stuck so deep in the cornea it can't be "dug" out with a miniature pick.
Good thing is, my left eye isn't blind, and there should only be extremely minimal risk to my eye on removing the metal object. Bad thing is, I cannot see clearly - and most likely I will have this weird halo- effect and slightly blurred vision on my left eye for the rest of my life. Not even a laser- operation can correct that, so I was told.
Safety glasses? Weren't using 'em at the time Our safety regulations do not specify need for eye protection, only hard hats. I've been working as a stevedore for 11 years without problems, I've had more stuff fly into my eyes on a windy day than I've had during my career in the harbour. So I wasn't too worried about stuff flying into my eyes. But things can happen, and I guess I'll be wearing protective glasses from now on when working with air tools
My dad had the same thing happen last year, had to go to the er and have the metal dug out
Then a week later I had the same thing when cutting a sheet of aluminum with a jig saw. I had glasses on too (because of the incident a week prior with my father), and it still got in. Another trip to the ER, not fun having a needle stuck in your eye lol. I have that halo-effect. Its gotten alot better over the last year, and its nothing I can't live with
Eye is getting better, fortunately the third eye-specialst who looked at it was able to remove the metal piece out of my eye. I still can't see clearly, but at least the pain is gone
But back to the build, I decided to replace rear brakelines, since they are old. Because of the truss, I wasn't going to be able to use the stock ZJ split block or brakelines anyway. I bought a YJ hose/ split block, and had a shop flare me new hardlines. Cleaned the calipers and painted them black.
I was going to buy a HD diff cover, but realised the d44a pumpkin is a lot bigger than iron D44 is. No aftermarket support for this axle, so out came the 1/4" steel plate and angle grinder. Fabbing a diff cover without a plasma cutter and a press sucks here's the half- finished product:
Calipers cleaned and painted, new brake hard lines bent and installed:
Got the rear axle diff cover finished, except for fill plug. I'll cut one off from a spare D30 diff cover using a hole saw - which I didn't have on the right size, gotta pick one up tomorrow from a hardware store. That way I can get the treaded part & the plug; then just drill a hole to the fabbed cover and weld it in
In total I used four pieces to build this, hardest parts to cut were the ones that I bent into shape on the sides; had to do relief cuts (cut around halfway through), it's impossible to bend 1/4" plate without a press
First piece tack welded:
All cut, welded and cleaned:
Old stamped piece of s*** compared to HD version:
I built the new one to have more oil volume, but not any deeper than the old one. Came out spot- on same overall height
Quite apalling... all bent out-of-shape
(about .050" off )
Ordered the Flowmaster Delta 50 muffler today for 3" pipe. I will probably be upgrading to aftermarket headers next summer, at that point I will be going to 2.5" downpipes, and 3" from y-connection forward, including the cat. As for now, I re-routed the downpipes using 2" pipe, 2.5" from connection to cat, 3" from cat back.
I went for the Delta 50 because of it fairly compact size, should sound good but not too loud and it flows well. Takes about 2 weeks for it to ship across the ocean, I will be installing it the day it arrives
5.2-242 tcase-44a-30x9.50x15 MT/R-American Racing Burst Rims -[COLOR="Red"]Optima[/COLOR] -E3 plugs-[COLOR="DarkGreen"]Cu[/COLOR]st[COLOR="DarkGreen"]om[/COLOR] Pa[COLOR="DarkGreen"]in[/COLOR]t-Amsoil-Addco Front and Rear-polyurethane bushings
[B]To be installed[/B]: RE gen2 discos, military battery terminals
[B]To be rebuilt:[/B] HP30
[B]To be received:[/B]
[B]To be paid for:[/B]
[B]Next on the list:[/B] complete redo of brakes and
[B]Needed:[/B] fittings, coil of brake tubing, Russel speed bleeders
awesome cover but you need a fill port, maybe add two, one lower so you can drain without taking the cover off
If you had read the text and not just looked at the pictures, you might have noticed I will add one Was missing a correct size hole saw, it's a little hard to drill the opening for it without one
As for using a drain plug as well, I haven't made up my mind on that. On the other hand, I usually like to check the internals too when changing gear oil so it's not necessary IMO, but... ...Lubelocker doesn't make gaskets for the D44a, I hate scraping the old gasketmaker off. So it'd be a lot easier to just drain & refill.
Thanks, trying to do things as good as possible. I hate things built about right
As for the wheeling, it depends.. sometimes there are only a few of us, sometimes almost 20 people. During past few years a lot of Toyota guys have swapped to Jeeps
I got the rear axle finished today, and semi- permanently mounted under the Jeep for some test fitment and to check for required mods needed on the unibody.
Things to do:
* Frame- end trackbar mount needs to be moved 1.5" towards rear
* I need a new trackbar
* Stock bumpstops were not long enough; also the stock coil tower in the rear is way too short. With the 1.75" BB there is no tower showing at all, so the coil may fall out. I will extend the coil tower a little, and use XJ/ZJ front bumpstop buckets + OEM bumpstops on the rear.
* I bought a YJ rear brake hose, it wasn't long enough although I thought I measured it right. It's only 1" short, so I'll modify the rear hardline mount so it reaches.
Gotta say I hate roadsalt.. three coats of rust- preventing paint, and things look like this after one winter. I will clean everything to bare metal and re-paint (with different stuff obviously ) when the temps get a little higher.
Anyway, rear axle at full bump; in this picture if the coils were in place they'd have a little travel left. I don't want the coils to bottom out. At full flex the tire would almost touch the fender.
This is the space where I need to fit 1.75" lift block + the stock coil (fully compressed length is very close to 5")
Just barely enough room for trackbar, but it will fit
This is the idea for the rear bumpstops. I'd love to get air- or hydraulic bumpstops, but don't have enough money at the moment. I may end up ordering two sets of JKS ACOS Pro kits, and mod the other kit to work in the rear.