1993 ZJ Clayton long arms with Johnny joints, custom front axle W yota center, D44 chevy outers, fabtech dirtlogic 2.25, front bilsten rear shocks, tacoma rear axle, 4.88, arb rear, 5 speed, poly motor mount inserts, NP241OR 4-1 ,receiver front for xcr 8k winch
I cut off both coil buckets and sway bar mounts from the rear axle, had to get some room for working on the axle. I will also move the coil buckets slightly forward from their original locations, now that the axle is moved back 1.5" the coils keep making stupid noises all the time. Gotta do something about it. I might add some height (no more than 1") on the coil buckets for added lift height - or not. Haven't decided on that just yet
I'll also modify the shock mounts, I want to move them higher up so they don't catch every rock and tree stump. Should be a roughly 15 minute job per side
Added gussets (1/4" plate) at the back of both LCA mounts, plenty of clearance for beefy flex joints (that's a Trail Gear 2.63" creeper joint in the pic):
Fairly certain these welds hold up to some trail abuse
This is propably a good reason why the LSD on the rear wasn't exactly working too well.. All the discs were pretty worn out, and the other one of the two tabs on the outermost (closest to side gear) disc that holds it in the recess on the carrier was snapped on both sides.
Both carrier bearings and the races were toast as I suspected, didn't have a chance to look at pinion bearings yet. I'm pretty sure they will look the same. Rollers had similar marks on most of them too.. This axle only has around 110k miles on it, so it does show the weakness of the D44a
Does anyone have any good ideas how to remove the pinion bearing races from the D44a? No suprise they are stuck since it's aluminum/ steel and they tend to stick together like superglue I tried heating the race/ pumpkin and then pound them out, but the races wouldn't move. After two hours I gave up. Front HPD30 races came out in about 5 seconds each.
I was wondering if I could ie. heat up the races by welding a bead onto the races, then trying again? I just can't remember the thermal expansion rates of steel and aluminum, if steel expands more then there's probably no point in doing that. I hate that aluminum housing! :
After getting fed up with the rear axle I moved on to the front axle.
Started out by boxing in the pass. side UCA mount with 1/4" plate. The bushing heated up so much I was actually able to press it out using a 2- jaw puller and a thick washer that happened to be just the correct size. Even the steel surrounding came out!
Because of the 1.5" WB stretch in the front, my coils weren't in the ideal location, especially so @ full bump. I also hate the sound they make now. So I cut off the stock coil buckets, cleaned them up a little, cut two 7" long pieces of 4" x 2" (.188" wall), notched them, burned in the coil buckets, and then burned them to the axle.
Coils are now @ stock location and axle is 1.5" forward, should have no problems anymore. I also added ~½" lift to the buckets. Shock mounts will be done tomorrow or next week.
The donor Jeep (1999 XJ with only 40k miles!) I bought the front HPD30 from was rolled over at relatively slow speed. However, knowing the crappy stock LCA mounts they were bent. I first tried straightening them - unsuccesfully. They ended up being diamond- shaped I decided not to try anymore, instead cut them off and fabbed new, much beefier LCA mounts from 1/4" plate and burned them in. These are not finished, they will get a plate welded in between the two halves and the axletube (sort of miniskids looking from the front):
5.2-242 tcase-44a-30x9.50x15 MT/R-American Racing Burst Rims -[COLOR="Red"]Optima[/COLOR] -E3 plugs-[COLOR="DarkGreen"]Cu[/COLOR]st[COLOR="DarkGreen"]om[/COLOR] Pa[COLOR="DarkGreen"]in[/COLOR]t-Amsoil-Addco Front and Rear-polyurethane bushings
[B]To be installed[/B]: RE gen2 discos, military battery terminals
[B]To be rebuilt:[/B] HP30
[B]To be received:[/B]
[B]To be paid for:[/B]
[B]Next on the list:[/B] complete redo of brakes and
[B]Needed:[/B] fittings, coil of brake tubing, Russel speed bleeders
Anyone have suggestions to a sort of weird shift problems? Symptoms:
* shifts normally and smoothly when in high range
* on 4lo, I've managed to get the tranny shift out of 1st gear only a few times by tricking the tranny.
* no matter of the shift lever position, tranny basically never shifts out of 1st. Even at WOT or close to it, it'll just redline on 1st and stays there.
Fluid level is fine, no discoloration or burnt smell, TV cable in stock adjustment, and as mentioned shifts perfectly on high range. I'm outta ideas edit: it's been this way since the day I bought it back in July 2010 so it's not a new problem.
Got the axles back almost two weeks ago from the shop who did the R&P and front locker install. I haven't had much time to finish the axle brackets etc., so my ZJ has been sitting on axle stands for almost three weeks now
However, rear is almost ready to go back under the Jeep. Tomorrow I need to finish the trackbar mount and paint the axle second time - paint looks like crap at the moment Brake backing plate mounting studs were in bad shape, and I don't have a proper size tool to clean the 3/8" UNF treads. I'm probably gonna use Grade 8 3/8" UNF or class 10.9 10mm fine tread bolts & nuts to mount them. Can't find suitable studs anywhere.
D44 + D30 HD diff covers and Lubelocker gaskets are on their way, should arrive in a week or so. After that this D44a should be strong enough for the stuff I do with the ZJ
Front HP D30 needs a bit more work than the rear;
* Buy & replace lower and upper balljoints (WJ lower, XJ upper - for the WJ knuckles)
* Install WJ knuckles & brakes
* Decide between using Chevy 1-ton TREs or a mixture of WJ/TJ TREs.
* Buy and weld in Goferit flip inserts for OTK steering.
* Mount the axle under the vehicle, measure mounting locations for swaybar links, trackbar, and front shock absorber tabs.
I want to do it in this order, so I'm 100% sure nothing will interfere with each other.
are you putting some type of skid on the 44a for protection of the aluminum center section ??
I am seriously thinking of fabbing a skid/ protection plate from .188" thick abrasion- resistant high strength steel. The d44a that came out from under the ZJ got a couple of ~1/4" deep gashes on the bottom of it
Aluminum seems to bite to the rocks amazingly well too - sliding over them doesn't usually go well because you get hopelessly stuck