Daily Driver 5.9 build thread - bumpers, tube rockers, etc.. - Page 25 - JeepForum.com
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post #361 of 375 Old 11-22-2016, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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I think both rear UCA frame-end brackets need some special attention




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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

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1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #362 of 375 Old 11-29-2016, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Some small damage has happened on the rear UCA frameside brackets
I again forgot to take my DSLR with me, I'll snap better shots when I have it with me in the garage.


Both UCA brackets were just about fully cracked away from the uniframe, only held on with thin sheetmetal strips. Didn't even need to use angle grinder to pull the brackets off, just a few wiggles using my bare hands

LCA brackets were rock-solid, but also twisted/ bent slightly from hitting rocks on the trails. I will move the LCA and UCA brackets quite as much forward as my current CAs allow me. I have about 2" of adjustment available so that's what I'm gonna go with.

While doing this, I will also raise the axle brackets higher (LCA brackets the axle tube height, etc..), so that I end up with horizontal CAs.










1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #363 of 375 Old 12-04-2016, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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I started thinking of wanting to get rid of the rear trackbar.

For now I can't really go for double triangulated 4-link rear with long arms (road legality regarding the links, and vehicle weight reasons), so I thought why not go WJ upper A- arm style. Difference being that I will be using two separate uppers with duroflex joints, and the bushings being horizontal, not vertical.
JK Wrangler rear UCAs are just about the right length, and Metalcloak arms allow for enough adjustment to fit my needs


Here's the plan; 4-link geometry seems ok, lowers are angled as much as reasonably possible (~16.5); uppers have close to 40 of triangulation. Should make the rear stable enough, and the axle moving straight up and down, not sideways.
There's about 70% less rear suspension steer compared to OEM links, which is a good thing as well.
Static anti-squat is pretty good @75%, and it goes up to around 90% at full bump. At full droop it's around 95%.
Pinion angle change within the suspension travel limits stays reasonable, it's about 4 at full bump and slightly over 1 at full droop.



1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #364 of 375 Old 12-17-2016, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Things getting forward.. I built a jig for the rear lower bracket alignment. Started working on the rear axle brackets first, I'll then do the uniframe stiffening & brackets. Easier that way.








UCA mounting locations being checked & scetching the bottom plate:




1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #365 of 375 Old 12-21-2016, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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Got the new Metalcloak rear UCAs. These are the JK rear uppers; 1.75" x .188" wall DOM; bushings are 2 5/16" wide, 2 5/8" diameter with 9/16" bolt holes.
Quite a huge difference between the old uppers and the new ones. I'm 100% confident these will hold up to the forces of the triangulated upper design.




As a comparison, here are my lowers that I built from 2" x .250" wall DOM, weld-on tube bungs and Metalcloak duroflex joints:


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #366 of 375 Old 12-23-2016, 04:10 PM
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Looks good.

Any reason you aren't extending the truss out further in the process?


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post #367 of 375 Old 12-23-2016, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Truss is getting a second tube in front to support the upper mounts.

I could go a bit wider on the truss - or I probably should've done that when I built the truss - doing it now would require me to cut off the existing one and fabbing a new one. I think I skip on that If I bend this axle, I'll build a Ford 8.8 or something else

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #368 of 375 Old 01-03-2017, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Christmas and New year is behind, so it's time to do some work again

I fabbed a secondary truss by bending a tube in front of the primary one. The mounting bracket plate goes in between the trusses, allowing me to weld the UCA brackets onto the plate.


Here's the secondary truss and bracket plate already welded on:




I worked so hard I forgot to take pictures in between At this point it was 11:20PM and I had started 11AM, with just one lunch break. Cutting everything with an angle grinder, and using a drill press for the holes makes progress slow..
I of course used cardboard to get everything right the first time with the metal-cutting
My design, and end results are accurate enough. I measured under a 0.5 of variation on the bracket angle, which is good enough. Link separation at frame end between centers of the bushings should be 27", and it was as close to 27" as I could measure with the links horizontal and sitting straight in their brackets

I know I will have a tight fit between the upper brackets and cargo floor - at full bump there will only be about 1/2" of space between them




1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #369 of 375 Old 01-06-2017, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Rear axle mostly done.

Next:
* Test- fitting
* Uniframe plating & new CA brackets
* Finishing the missing things from the axle
* Painting everything

I try to finish this by next Friday. There's a wheeling event on Sat. 14th Jan., which would be a good shake-down test for the new rear suspension.







Checking if things fit:



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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #370 of 375 Old 01-09-2017, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Unibody needs a bit of strengthening. I had four plates cut, two for each framerail section (inner- and outer plate); bottom will be plated as well.

..and to make things strong, you start with cutting big holes







Outer plate (partially) welded in, and holes filled with pieces of tube. This is both to prevent the uniframe from crushing, and to provide support for the UCA mounting area.
With the added stresses from the triangulated uppers, IMO it's a good idea to add a bit of extra support.


I cut off the old rear stiffener box, and bent & welded a piece of tube to reach all the way to the box steel rocker. I will make another one like that to go to the next hole in front.




1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #371 of 375 Old 01-24-2017, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Progress has been slow, too much things to do during past couple of weeks.

UCA frameside bracket half finished (DIY cut & bent from 3/16" plate):




..which has filled this hole I cut under the rear seat




I then started developing a Star Wars droid..






..which ended up here after I slaughtered it by cutting it into two pieces:



Outer welds partially done, need to do the inside welds, fill the gaps on the topsides and add a few gussets.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #372 of 375 Old 03-05-2017, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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My IRO frame stiffeners came in about two weeks ago. I'll wait until spring before I install them. I need to re-design my tranny mount/belly skid, current one is too heavy and bulky. I want it lighter and more functional

I don't think I need to worry about crushing my uniframe rails after these.. currently there are quite a few BIG dents on the rails






This is how the rear end came out to be after the modifications. Works way better than the stock 4-link + panhard setup. Axle travels up and down in straight line, no sideways movement. Also, at full bump (~4.5" uptravel) axle moves forward only ~1/4", and at full droop (~8" downtravel) it moves forward ~1.5"
Pinion angle change is very reasonable at ~3.5 at full bump and ~1.5 @ full droop

I built three different shock mount locations to the body side; each is optimized based on the available uptravel, and they let me either choose a bit firmer shock absorption and less downtravel, or softer rire with more downtravel.
Currently using the middle option. The softest/ most downtravel would give me about 1.5" more downtravel, but it's kinda useless because suspension already droops so much the coil unseats from the upper coil tower.


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #373 of 375 Old 06-16-2017, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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I posted this on the ZJ tech- section as well on my "Box steel rocker done right"- thread, but I'll add it here as well since it is a part of my build project:


Ok, I finally decided to re-design my box steel rockers that I fabbed about six years ago. Keep in mind this is still a work-in-progress. So if you're seeing unfinished or weird looking things, don't worry - they will be finished once I've time to do it

Back then I simply cut off the original rockers, cut some stuff off at the bottom of b-pillar, then welded the 2" x 6" .120" wall* box steel rockers to the sheetmetal floor panel and bottom of door sill.
(* Built from a 2" x 4" and 2" x 2" box steel tube welded together for strength and fairly slight weight)
I wasn't happy about the rockers not being properly tied into the bottoms of the pillars. I also somewhat skipped on the part of doing proper rust-prevention, and living in a country were road salt is used 5-6 months a year it causes issues.
It caused issues looking like this; original box steel rocker cut off on the right - very rusty




I did some measuring, and decided to go with slightly different tube size; we have metric stuff here and I went with 120mm x 60mm x 3mm wall - which is about the equivalent of 4.5" x 2.5"

Why this size, when the 6" x 2" extends sideways about just right? Reason is, this way I can raise the box steel rocker about an inch higher to sit level with the floor, and the side of the box steel will be exactly where the old door sill was.
Doing some test-fitting (sorry for the bad quality cellphone picture):




Then add stiffener plates to the bottoms of the trimmed b- and c-pillars, and weld a tube to the bottom of them. Don't mind about the rusty- looking floor/ rocker panel, it was cut off later





Then drill holes to the box steel so that the tubes slide through the rocker, and weld the vertical tubes to the bottom of the rocker to properly tie the pillars to the rocker.

I added a .120" thick T- shaped steel bar to the box steel, and then cut off the floor pan so that the top of the box steel on the inside of the cabin can be welded to the door sill, and the floor pan horizontal part can be welded to the stiffener on the box steel rocker.

Pictures are nice and show it better than my apalling explanation






At this point I had already added the rocker tubes to act as both a step when climbing into Jeep, as protection for doors, and as a pivot point when on the trails going around tight corners using a rock or tree as the pivot.

The front tube is not yet welded into the uniframe, I will plate the uniframe first before doing the welding. As you can see, I also weld in the Iron Rock Offroad frame stiffeners at the same time.
All this should make the box steel rockers a LOT stronger than before, and the stiffeners adding even more strength and unibody stiffness.

Rockers are also tied into the A- and C-pillar with my tube fenders.
I will be posting more pictures once I'm finished; Jeep is still under construction due to serious lack of time working on it..






1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #374 of 375 Old 06-16-2017, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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I've pushed the rear axle back about 1.25" when I bought the adjustable rear CAs (about six years ago), so my coils were a bit weirdish already. Never caused any real issues, but it was enough to actually cause the coils to permanently change their shape to slightly "bananish"

When I did the upper triangulated arms and got rid of the trackbar, I also moved the coil buckets to be centered over the rear axle tube. This pushed the bottom of coils back another 1.75", so the coils were now really crooked - also causing them to catch on the bumpstop extension tube.


So I had to modify the upper coil buckets. I eneded up using .120" rolled steel plate to form the basis of the top mount; I then used another .120" plate as a doubler to give the upper plate the strength it needs.
The side plate acts as a frame stiffener; I now have my frame rails plated from front to back almost entirely, plate thickness being between .120" up to .250" depending on the area.
The only area without plating is the outside frame around the front coils, but that will be done (.120" plate) sometime this year.




Doubler plate:



Ready to be welded to the uniframe:


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #375 of 375 Old 08-07-2017, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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Been a while since I've posted any updates on this..

Apart from still continuing with the box steel rocker/frame stiffener/ rear upper coil bucket updates, I decided to tackle a few other things.

My rear brake hard line was in bad condition, and it actually snapped when I tried to bend it a bit. Front brakes lines in the wheel arches were also in bad condition, and I've also never really liked the way the brake soft lines and ABS sensor wires just basically hang in there.

I've wanted to convert/ update all my brake lines from the OEM style to running AN3- type reinforced soft lines. This allows me to run a single line all the way from the ABS HCU all the way to each brake caliper.

The HCU output ports are all different sizes:
* Rear is 12 x 1mm
* Front left is an odd-ball size of 11 x 1.5mm
* Front right is 10 x 1mm

I couldn't find a 11 x 1.5mm to AN3 adapter anywhere, but 12 x 1.5 -> AN3 is a very common size. I decided to drill & tap the FL port to 12 x 1.5, will make life much easier in the future:




Then go to your local motorsport parts store to grab high-quality Goodridge AN3 600-series hose - dunno how much it costs there in the USA, here it's ~17 per 1 meter, which is around 6$ per feet - and the required adapters, connectors and banjo connectors.




All the brake lines connected; I installed a T- connector to split the rear lines right at the HCU.




This shows the route for the front line(s); a still need to fab a few brackets to securely hold the lines in place.
It's straight up from the caliper, then a small loop around the upper ball joint to allow for knuckle to turn, then along the top of axle tube, to the UCA and then along the firewall up to the HCU





I also started installing my new front shocks; they are eye-eye mount, 1/2" mounting with a spherical rod-end- style upper and lower mounts. I fabbed a DIY stud-toeye mount bracket, and I need to redo the lower mounts on the axle.
These are Bilstein 7100-series short-body 12" stroke reservoir shocks; user- rebuildable and can be re-valved if the compression/ rebound valving isn't good. Nitrogen pressure can be adjusted if needed.

These shocks provide me with the same uptravel as my previous (crappy RC nitro shocks), but will allow for 2.5" more downtravel. I'm expecting these to be a huge improvement performance-wise
Front coils will be changed from the current Moog variable-rate + 2" BB pucks to Metalcloak 2.5" dual rate coils. They will be long enough not to unseat at full droop/ full flex with the new shocks.



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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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