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Unread 04-22-2013, 02:28 PM   #46
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjCREEPjeep View Post
I realized i suck at notching at angles with a grinder.
Well, who doesn't?

A good tube notcher than can do offset notches is your best friend. I myself have yet to buy one but I certainly will some day. I've notched all the tubework on the XJ cage and the ZJ bumper tubes with either a drill press + hole saw, or angle grinder. Right angle notches are easy but it's the offset or whatever- angle ones that suck..

As for notching with a grinder, I'd suggest using paper rolled to the OD of the tube as a template; cut the paper to create the notch needed, then put the paper over the tube you're notching, trace the lines of the cut and then cut using angle grinder. It works fairly well although it's a bit time-consuming. IMO it's better anyways than filling in huge gaps or re-bending and re-notching the tube.

edit: Bumper looks good.

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***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 04-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #47
ratmonkey
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tht front pinion angle is pretty bad there.
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Unread 04-22-2013, 05:13 PM   #48
CRJEeP_wj
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Thanks Timo, I thought about putting a whole saw on my drill press but wasnt sure if i could get those steep angles without breaking an arbor. Im gonna try the paper next time I like that idea, at my rate of measuring cutting and notching a cage would take me forever, thats impressive that you built your cage like that, thanks for the input.
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Unread 04-22-2013, 10:03 PM   #49
CRJEeP_wj
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Yea i had to do some grinding on the yokes and cv, i think its fine for now but in a few weeks ima get a better drive line.
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Unread 04-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #50
mtnmarc
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"You want your steering drag link and track bar to follow identical arcs as they travel through the suspension cycle. In a perfect situation, they'll have equal length, will be parallel, and will be co-planar.

In other words, if you've got a steering box, you've got a drag link--so you've got an arc that the drag link will swing through. You want the axle housing to follow that same arc so that you don't get unwanted steering inputs, which will occur if there's a difference in the arcs. With a triangulated setup and no track bar, your axle will not swing to the side but instead will droop straight down (and slightly back). If you've got a steering box (and, thus, a drag link), the drag link will swing through a lateral arc. You'll be experiencing a constant discrepancy between the axle's travel and the drag link's travel, hence constant bump steer. So, either choose a triangulated setup with full hydro (as pictured above) or choose a 3 link + panhard with a steering box and make the DL and panhard as geometrically identical as possible. If the rig will see street use, go with the latter. You won't experience any bind through a usable range of travel as long as you design it correctly.

The only way to make a triangulated setup work with a steering box is to come up with some sort of front-to-back steering linkage setup. IMO, it's too funky and overcomplicated."





Got that off pirate. Its more talking about a double triangulated 4 link, but I think it applies to this situation. The arc in which your axle moves isn't the same as the arc your steering moves, which will cause bump steer.
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Unread 04-23-2013, 11:56 AM   #51
CRJEeP_wj
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Thanks marc, I guess i may be changing my suspension design. The only thing i dont understand is why the same setup worked so well on my truck. Hows yours coming along? The last pics a saw looked good.
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Unread 04-23-2013, 12:23 PM   #52
mtnmarc
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I really couldn't say why it worked before. Maybe sheer vehicle weight reduced bump steer along with better power steering? Who knows.

You could triangulate the lowers and go full hydro

Or change the uppers and run a 3 link with track bar. You have options.

And my jeep is coming along. Need to order drive shaft parts and that's it. Soon after will be hydro assist when I sell some stock parts.
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99 WJ hp44, 3 link, Eaton e locker, 14" foa coilovers in the front. 14 bolt, 4 link, grizzly locker, 12" foa coilovers in the rear. 5.38s and 37s
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Unread 04-23-2013, 02:52 PM   #53
CRJEeP_wj
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Yea full hydro would open up alot of possibilities, like moveing my front axle foward more and lower it a few inches. Too bad its not street legal, but technically neither are my beadlocks. Who are you ordering drive shaft parts from? Anyone local? You gonna tap your own box for hydro assist?
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Unread 04-23-2013, 02:56 PM   #54
mtnmarc
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Denny's drive shaft. Greg recommended me to their site. They have good prices. Need a cv rebuilt kit and 2 conversion joints.

And yeah, Greg's gunna tap my box and I'll probably end up getting a psc ram.
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Unread 04-24-2013, 10:27 PM   #55
MoonyJohn
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How have I not seen this? So sick..
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Unread 04-25-2013, 09:23 PM   #56
CRJEeP_wj
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Thanks moony. I liked what you did with your wj too. How do you like the jk?
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Unread 04-28-2013, 06:13 PM   #57
MassWJ92
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What's the dana 60 out of? Curious because I'm trying to put super duty axles under my Wj
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Unread 04-28-2013, 08:34 PM   #58
CRJEeP_wj
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93ish ford f350. I believe. I think someone did super duty axles on a wj a while back, SaturnIcl, he had a sweet setup. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong about that though.
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Unread 04-28-2013, 08:47 PM   #59
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Yep, SaturnICL did the superduty HP60 and Sterling 10.5 WJ build a couple years back. He then did another identical build for an owner based out of Sac. I've had the opportunity to have my hands on it a few times, it was a clean build and the superduty axles were a good fit. I've got a set of 1988 F350 axles sitting in my back yard for my black WJ, Kingpin but with the wicked front pinion offset
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Unread 04-28-2013, 09:02 PM   #60
CRJEeP_wj
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WHAAAT?! Thats gonna be sweet. Do you plan on making it street drivable/legal? I wanna here your plan for this AP. Same with you masswj, whats the plan? Very interested.
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