I realized i suck at notching at angles with a grinder.
Well, who doesn't?
A good tube notcher than can do offset notches is your best friend. I myself have yet to buy one but I certainly will some day. I've notched all the tubework on the XJ cage and the ZJ bumper tubes with either a drill press + hole saw, or angle grinder. Right angle notches are easy but it's the offset or whatever- angle ones that suck..
As for notching with a grinder, I'd suggest using paper rolled to the OD of the tube as a template; cut the paper to create the notch needed, then put the paper over the tube you're notching, trace the lines of the cut and then cut using angle grinder. It works fairly well although it's a bit time-consuming. IMO it's better anyways than filling in huge gaps or re-bending and re-notching the tube.
Thanks Timo, I thought about putting a whole saw on my drill press but wasnt sure if i could get those steep angles without breaking an arbor. Im gonna try the paper next time I like that idea, at my rate of measuring cutting and notching a cage would take me forever, thats impressive that you built your cage like that, thanks for the input.
"You want your steering drag link and track bar to follow identical arcs as they travel through the suspension cycle. In a perfect situation, they'll have equal length, will be parallel, and will be co-planar.
In other words, if you've got a steering box, you've got a drag link--so you've got an arc that the drag link will swing through. You want the axle housing to follow that same arc so that you don't get unwanted steering inputs, which will occur if there's a difference in the arcs. With a triangulated setup and no track bar, your axle will not swing to the side but instead will droop straight down (and slightly back). If you've got a steering box (and, thus, a drag link), the drag link will swing through a lateral arc. You'll be experiencing a constant discrepancy between the axle's travel and the drag link's travel, hence constant bump steer. So, either choose a triangulated setup with full hydro (as pictured above) or choose a 3 link + panhard with a steering box and make the DL and panhard as geometrically identical as possible. If the rig will see street use, go with the latter. You won't experience any bind through a usable range of travel as long as you design it correctly.
The only way to make a triangulated setup work with a steering box is to come up with some sort of front-to-back steering linkage setup. IMO, it's too funky and overcomplicated."
Got that off pirate. Its more talking about a double triangulated 4 link, but I think it applies to this situation. The arc in which your axle moves isn't the same as the arc your steering moves, which will cause bump steer.
99 WJ hp44, 3 link, Eaton e locker, 14" foa coilovers in the front. 14 bolt, 4 link, grizzly locker, 12" foa coilovers in the rear. 5.38s and 37s
Thanks marc, I guess i may be changing my suspension design. The only thing i dont understand is why the same setup worked so well on my truck. Hows yours coming along? The last pics a saw looked good.
Yea full hydro would open up alot of possibilities, like moveing my front axle foward more and lower it a few inches. Too bad its not street legal, but technically neither are my beadlocks. Who are you ordering drive shaft parts from? Anyone local? You gonna tap your own box for hydro assist?
Yep, SaturnICL did the superduty HP60 and Sterling 10.5 WJ build a couple years back. He then did another identical build for an owner based out of Sac. I've had the opportunity to have my hands on it a few times, it was a clean build and the superduty axles were a good fit. I've got a set of 1988 F350 axles sitting in my back yard for my black WJ, Kingpin but with the wicked front pinion offset