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Unread 07-13-2013, 09:52 AM   #2596
comptiger5000
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Good to hear! Now can you work some of that steering fixing magic on my Jeep? I'd love to lose the bit of play it's got in the steering (hint: it's either the box or the steering shaft, from what I can tell).

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Unread 07-18-2013, 05:00 PM   #2597
compcrasher86
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After driving for a week and verifying that everything is back to how it should be I feel confident putting it for sale. Listing is located here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f153/...-127k-1550667/
Base asking price is 5995 OBO to anyone whos interested. Cleaned it up real nice too.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 03:35 PM   #2598
compcrasher86
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Hey guys check this out! Right from the dealership, Mopar solid brake line from master cylinder to the a-arm connector (mines very rusty and needs replacement)
And heres the shocking part:


What a deal right?!
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Unread 07-30-2013, 03:36 PM   #2599
JerzeyBoyWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86
Hey guys check this out! Right from the dealership, Mopar solid brake line from master cylinder to the a-arm connector (mines very rusty and needs replacement)
And heres the shocking part:

What a deal right?!
Got one of them awhile back for 12 bucks hah only hard part is fishing the line to the rear ....have fun I have faith in you

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Unread 07-30-2013, 03:39 PM   #2600
snobrdrkid07
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You would think something like that would be really expensive. Also if they (Jeep) knew it rusted out like that, they'd charge a fortune for it.
Good find. I want to go buy one just because it is cheap!
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Unread 07-30-2013, 03:51 PM   #2601
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerzeyBoyWJ View Post
Got one of them awhile back for 12 bucks hah only hard part is fishing the line to the rear ....have fun I have faith in you

Sent from my iPhone5 using JeepForum
Nice deal! Yeah I'm looking at the bends right now, looks fun! I did some reading and people say its quite literally child's play once you've got it fished into place. I'm going to mock it up and see if I can get it into position and then do it, otherwise dealership gave me a reasonable flat rate quote on putting it in. If its out of my league I won't touch it but it looks surprisingly easy and a quick bolt in and bleed the brakes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
You would think something like that would be really expensive. Also if they (Jeep) knew it rusted out like that, they'd charge a fortune for it.
Good find. I want to go buy one just because it is cheap!
Well, if you want my honest oppinion, I think they know, and it is cheap to discourage anyone from second guessing the safety concern behind a brake line that rots out after 100k. Rest of my Jeep is really clean and free of problems like this but just this one area by the rockers seems to take so much abuse on the WJ. Look at that transition picture. Its clear that they did not properly shield this area on the Jeeps and that they must take some kind of straight road abuse. And look at the stainless steel fuel lines above that, they look perfect. Also. A big thanks to Squashman and his mechanic for bringing the safety of this line to my attention.

Edit: this transition picture:
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Unread 07-30-2013, 04:14 PM   #2602
JerzeyBoyWJ
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It's really easy once you get it routed in the engine compartment

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Unread 07-30-2013, 05:10 PM   #2603
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerzeyBoyWJ View Post
It's really easy once you get it routed in the engine compartment

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This is good news!

Seeing as I snapped a bleeder off one of the rear calipers checking to see if they were seized, I just ordered two new loaded calipers (new caliper, bracket, hardware, and pads) for the rears and I'll probably toss a fresh set of rotors back there too. You know while I'm in there I'm also putting a new e-brake hardware kit in there because I've never had an e-brake so tight I struggled to pull it to the top. Anyways, no messing around when it comes to brakes its a safety concern and a liability. This is starting to be expensive but you can't put a price on awesome brakes and my mechanic was going to charge way too much to replace only half of what I'm doing. I've got a vacuum bleeding tool that works awesome and the line hasn't breached yet so it should be a very painless bleed. If I can't get it bled right I've already got the money set aside to let the dealership do it using their fancy Starscan bleeding software using the ABS pump.

And, if my Jeep doesn't sell by the end of August, yeah I'm getting a new set of tire$.
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SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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Unread 07-30-2013, 08:55 PM   #2604
comptiger5000
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I'm pretty sure all WJ e-brakes feel that tight when they're working. The only one I've felt that wasn't like that didn't work, lol.

As long as you don't let the master cylinder run dry at any point during the line replacement, you shouldn't have to bleed the ABS (as no air will get into it).
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Unread 07-30-2013, 10:43 PM   #2605
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000
I'm pretty sure all WJ e-brakes feel that tight when they're working. The only one I've felt that wasn't like that didn't work, lol.

As long as you don't let the master cylinder run dry at any point during the line replacement, you shouldn't have to bleed the ABS (as no air will get into it).
Yeah that's about the consensus haha. Mine is really fine but the hardware is original and rusty so I'd like to do some preventative maintenance. I've got a couple helpers so bleeding shouldn't be a problem. And my stance is if its rusted, seized, or compromised its getting replaced so I should have nice new bleeders to work with.

Also want to buy a flare nut wrench does anybody know the proper size for the bleeders!?!
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Unread 07-31-2013, 12:05 AM   #2606
dillonjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
Yeah that's about the consensus haha. Mine is really fine but the hardware is original and rusty so I'd like to do some preventative maintenance. I've got a couple helpers so bleeding shouldn't be a problem. And my stance is if its rusted, seized, or compromised its getting replaced so I should have nice new bleeders to work with.

Also want to buy a flare nut wrench does anybody know the proper size for the bleeders!?!
Not off the top of my head but just put a normal wrench on it to see what size then buy the correct flare wrench.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 12:07 AM   #2607
compcrasher86
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Originally Posted by dillonjm View Post
Not off the top of my head but just put a normal wrench on it to see what size then buy the correct flare wrench.
See... sometimes its just the simplest things that fly past me. Great idea haha!
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Unread 07-31-2013, 05:29 AM   #2608
comptiger5000
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My ZJ bleeders are 3/8", yours are likely the same.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 08:07 AM   #2609
squashman702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86
Nice deal! Yeah I'm looking at the bends right now, looks fun! I did some reading and people say its quite literally child's play once you've got it fished into place. I'm going to mock it up and see if I can get it into position and then do it, otherwise dealership gave me a reasonable flat rate quote on putting it in. If its out of my league I won't touch it but it looks surprisingly easy and a quick bolt in and bleed the brakes.

Well, if you want my honest oppinion, I think they know, and it is cheap to discourage anyone from second guessing the safety concern behind a brake line that rots out after 100k. Rest of my Jeep is really clean and free of problems like this but just this one area by the rockers seems to take so much abuse on the WJ. Look at that transition picture. Its clear that they did not properly shield this area on the Jeeps and that they must take some kind of straight road abuse. And look at the stainless steel fuel lines above that, they look perfect. Also. A big thanks to Squashman and his mechanic for bringing the safety of this line to my attention.

Edit: this transition picture:
He's not actually my mechanic- its CTeunuch on here. He does work professionally as a mechanic, but tries to avoid working on whatever I drag to his house haha.

I am glad you decided to replace that- definitely a safety concern.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 08:31 AM   #2610
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squashman702

He's not actually my mechanic- its CTeunuch on here. He does work professionally as a mechanic, but tries to avoid working on whatever I drag to his house haha.

I am glad you decided to replace that- definitely a safety concern.
Yeah I did some reading and it seems to be an unsettlingly more than common WJ issue so I'm glad to get it done and out of the way anyways. Instead of fighting with seized bleeders I'm replacing the calipers too, which is good because I'm sure by this mileage its good to replace the brackets and all the hardware anyways. On top of that too the old school Teves design in the rears on WJs doesn't hold the pads as well as the Akebonos up front so with ceramic pads in the Teves caliper you get squeaks from the pads the first couple seconds of braking when its cold which really isn't a big deal with ceramics but it'll freak out your average car owner because when brakes make noises they're bad amirite?!

Anyways rant off there I'm trying to make my Jeep safe and reliable to drive so yes that brake line is a must. Beyond that it looks like everything is up to spec and fresh so we'll see what happens. There's this one BMW I'm really eyeing right now and I've got a couple people on hold to see my Jeep after this brake job is done.
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98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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